Lab-GrownMay 12, 2025
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De Beers Turns to Brown, Yellow Diamonds for New ‘Beacon’
“Ombré Desert Diamonds” will emphasize cream-, champagne-, and brown-colored diamonds, shades that set natural stones apart from lab grown.
At JCK Las Vegas, De Beers Group announced a new “beacon” program for the industry centered on “desert diamonds”—off-white, light yellow-, and brown-colored diamonds that both reflect their desert origins and are easily differentiated from lab-grown diamonds. (Photo courtesy of De Beers Group)
Editor’s Note: This story was updated post-publication to include information about De Beers Group’s last “beacon” program.
Las Vegas—For the first time in 16 years, De Beers Group has created a “beacon” program, a diamond jewelry design meant to be shared industry-wide with the goal of increasing demand.
Announced by CEO Al Cook at the company’s breakfast in Las Vegas on Friday, the “Ombré Desert Diamonds” initiative will emphasize designs using warm white, champagne-, brown- and amber-colored diamonds, which De Beers will support with marketing.
Though using light yellow and brown-colored diamonds is nothing new—see Le Vian’s “Chocolate” diamonds and De Beers’ own “Talisman” collection—their widespread marketing as the centerpiece of a new beacon campaign comes at a challenging time for natural diamonds.
As the Gemological Institute of America noted last week when it announced it would begin using more general color and clarity terminology for lab-grown diamonds, man-made diamonds are increasingly colorless and of high clarity.
Emphasizing the wide range of colors possible in natural diamonds helps to set them apart from all the near-perfect lab-grown diamonds.
In an interview with National Jeweler on Friday, Cook said the process of creating this new program started with the idea of origin, wanting the customers of the future to ask, “Where is my diamond from? Is it ethical? Is it sustainable? It is responsible?”
It then evolved into wanting to reflect the “beautiful African deserts” where De Beers mines many of its diamonds while also distinguishing its natural diamonds from lab-grown stones.
“In a world where people want something unique, in a world where people are rejecting commodities, in a world where people want something that’s real, and reflects them, a Desert Diamond does exactly that,” Cook said. “Its color will be unique, and its origin will be unique, and it contrasts completely with the endless array of commoditized lab grown.
He said the industry is already seeing the bifurcation between natural and lab-grown diamonds emerging, noting that, “You can go down the corridor and get lab grown for $45 a carat now.”
“This is really a way of saying, look, we’re not really about worrying about that,” Cook said. “We’re about creating a new level of desire for diamonds.”
Las Vegas—For the first time in 16 years, De Beers Group has created a “beacon” program, a diamond jewelry design meant to be shared industry-wide with the goal of increasing demand.
Announced by CEO Al Cook at the company’s breakfast in Las Vegas on Friday, the “Ombré Desert Diamonds” initiative will emphasize designs using warm white, champagne-, brown- and amber-colored diamonds, which De Beers will support with marketing.
Though using light yellow and brown-colored diamonds is nothing new—see Le Vian’s “Chocolate” diamonds and De Beers’ own “Talisman” collection—their widespread marketing as the centerpiece of a new beacon campaign comes at a challenging time for natural diamonds.
As the Gemological Institute of America noted last week when it announced it would begin using more general color and clarity terminology for lab-grown diamonds, man-made diamonds are increasingly colorless and of high clarity.
Emphasizing the wide range of colors possible in natural diamonds helps to set them apart from all the near-perfect lab-grown diamonds.
In an interview with National Jeweler on Friday, Cook said the process of creating this new program started with the idea of origin, wanting the customers of the future to ask, “Where is my diamond from? Is it ethical? Is it sustainable? It is responsible?”
It then evolved into wanting to reflect the “beautiful African deserts” where De Beers mines many of its diamonds while also distinguishing its natural diamonds from lab-grown stones.
“In a world where people want something unique, in a world where people are rejecting commodities, in a world where people want something that’s real, and reflects them, a Desert Diamond does exactly that,” Cook said. “Its color will be unique, and its origin will be unique, and it contrasts completely with the endless array of commoditized lab grown.
He said the industry is already seeing the bifurcation between natural and lab-grown diamonds emerging, noting that, “You can go down the corridor and get lab grown for $45 a carat now.”
“This is really a way of saying, look, we’re not really about worrying about that,” Cook said. “We’re about creating a new level of desire for diamonds.”
“That combination of a design that reflects the source we think is magical.”— Al Cook, De Beers Group
De Beers last launched a beacon in 2009 with “Everlon,” a knot-shaped design based on an ancient symbol of strength, the Hercules knot.
As with past beacons, such as the right-hand ring, De Beers will invest in media and digital campaigns to drive consumer demand for “Ombré Desert Diamonds.”
It also will make marketing collateral available to beacon participants.
In the interview, Cook noted that while past beacons, like the three-stone ring and “Center of My Universe,” have been design-centric, “Ombré Desert Diamonds” will be about more than that.
“This is going to be about design—we’re working to make the most beautiful designs out there—but it is also about the source. And that combination of a design that reflects the source we think is magical.”
In addition to the new beacon program, De Beers announced the formal launch of “Origin, De Beers Group,” a loose polished diamond program supported by the Tracr blockchain platform that allows consumers to trace a diamond back to the mine from which it originated.
For the program, the company will provide retailers with digital tools that will provide consumers access to provenance information and brand storytelling.
Also in Las Vegas, De Beers provided updates on where it is with its “Origins” strategy.
They include the following.
— De Beers has completed all airborne geophysical surveying in Angola, a “key milestone” in its exploration activities. The company first announced its intention to look for diamonds in Angola in 2022.
— It completed the first production run of industrial-grade diamonds at the former Lightbox factory in Gresham, Oregon, now called the Element Six Oregon Centre.
De Beers announced last year at JCK Las Vegas that it would quit growing diamonds for jewelry. A few weeks before this year’s shows, it announced that Lightbox, its lab-grown diamond jewelry brand, would be discontinued by summer.
— The diamond miner and marketer also noted that earlier this year, it announced that single country of origin data is now available on Tracr while DiamondProof, a countertop diamond testing device, was launched in U.S. retail stores in February.
De Beers first announced “Origins” at JCK Las Vegas 2024.
The restructuring plan is designed to cut costs and streamline the business as De Beers’ parent company, Anglo American, looks to offload the business, either through a demerger or a divestment.
During Friday’s interview, Cook said he expects the separation process to culminate in the first half of 2026, noting that there will be a process that Anglo American will start “very shortly.”
“We’re quite fortunate that we’ve got two very responsible owners who both care a lot about De Beers. As a result of that, I feel like things are going in the right direction,” Cook said.
“Having said that, the volatility of the last six months has just meant that we need to proceed in the right way and make sure that we get the right buyer, rather than right now.”
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