The top lot of Phillips’ recent Geneva Jewels auction was “The Vanderbilt Sapphire” brooch, seen here on the auction block. (Image credit: Kristian Skeie)
Geneva—A collection of Belle Époque jewelry that belonged to a Vanderbilt sold for more than four times its low-end estimate at a recent Phillips’ recent sale.
It was expected to sell for around $9 million, but was withdrawn from the sale, as was first reported in Forbes.
A Phillips spokesperson said “in agreement with the consignor, Phillips made the decision to withdraw the lot prior to the sale.”
"The Glowing Rose," a 10.08-carat cushion-shaped brilliant-cut fancy vivid pink diamond estimated to sell for nearly $20 million, was also withdrawn from a recent Sotheby's sale.
This 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was withdrawn from the Phillips sale.
The Vanderbilt collection, however, was 100 percent sold, garnering more than $4.2 million.
The jewels up for auction belonged to Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, who was the daughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt II and the great-granddaughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt, who built the family fortune.
Leading the sale was “The Vanderbilt Sapphire,” a 42.68-carat sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch mounted by Tiffany & Co.
“The Vanderbilt Sapphire” brooch sold for $3.6 million at a recent Phillips sale.
It features an intricate openwork design accented by old-cut diamonds, a style that is quintessentially Belle Époque, said Phillips.
The brooch sold for $3.6 million, well above its estimate of $1 million to $1.5 million.
Another highlight from the Vanderbilt collection was a Cartier diamond brooch that originally was part of a Belle Époque diamond tiara, which had eight lily sprays with interchangeable pear-shaped amethysts and diamonds. The tiara was later taken apart.
This diamond brooch, once part of a Cartier tiara that belonged to Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, sold for $560,582.
The tiara was given to Gladys by her mother to celebrate her marriage to Count László Széchényi in 1908.
The brooch sold for $560,582, well above its pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.
An emerald and diamond bow brooch that belonged to Gladys, as well as her gold and diamond hair comb, also sold above their estimates.
An emerald and diamond bow brooch from the late 19th century
A gold and diamond hair comb, circa the early 20th century
“The results of today’s sale attest to the enduring appeal of period jewels and the discerning eye of our international clients. To bring the jewels of the Vanderbilt family to the world’s stage was a moment of profound privilege,” said Benoît Repellin, worldwide head of jewelry at Phillips.
“These treasures stand as the purest embodiment of Gilded Age elegance, and the response we have witnessed is a testament to the timeless power of exceptional jewels.”
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The overall jewelry auction garnered more than $17 million, with 85 percent of lots sold and 90 percent sold by value, with signed jewels doing especially well.
More than 1,600 people visited during the preview and sale, said Phillips, with bidders from 44 countries participating in person, over the phone, and online.
The No. 2 lot was an 18.09-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, which sold for $2.8 million.
This 18.09-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring was the No. 2 lot.
In the No. 3 spot was a diamond that may have been of interest to fans of Taylor Swift’s engagement ring, Phillips said.
This 10.08-carat light pink-brown old cushion-shaped diamond sold for $880,915.
The 10.08-carat light pink-brown old cushion-shaped diamond is said to be from the historic Golconda region in India and, like Swift’s ring, has a combination bezel-prong setting in yellow gold.
It sold for $880,915, above its $450,000 to $600,000 pre-sale estimate.
Another highlight of the auction was a Van Cleef & Arpels 1920s diamond sautoir with all the geometric flare of the Art Deco era, set with a 10.79-carat step-cut diamond.
A 1920s Van Cleef & Arpels diamond sautoir
The sautoir sold for $416,433, above its pre-sale estimate of $150,000 to $300,000.
Also up for sale was the “Plumes” necklace Jean Schlumberger designed in the late 1950s for Fiona Campbell-Walter, Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza.
A “Plumes” necklace designed by Jean Schlumberger in the late 1950s
It sold for $352,261, within its pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.
Phillips’ next live jewelry sale will be held in New York on Dec. 8.
