Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors

Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.

Lauren McLemore lauren.mclemore@nationaljeweler.com

The 18-karat yellow gold, platinum, and cocobolo wood “Elements” bracelet set with a 14.16-carat pink tourmaline and featuring peridot, spinel, and demantoid garnet accents won Best of Show honors in the Spectrum division, while a suite of no-oil Colombian emeralds totaling 12.91 carats took Best of Show honors in the Cutting Edge division.

Dallas—The American Gem Trade Association has announced the winners of the 2025 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.

Judging took place Oct. 30 to Nov. 1 at the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star in Dallas.

There were more than 300 hundred entries, similar to last year.

There were 32 new entrants, and the number of entries in Cutting Edge Awards’ Carving category tripled.

“We tell participants that the Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards offer a ‘lifetime of opportunity’ and they truly do,” AGTA CEO John Ford said.

“We are thrilled to welcome all these talents into the esteemed circle of Spectrum Award winners and can’t wait to see how they reap the many benefits and opportunities that Spectrum creates.”

Six of the winners were first-time Spectrum award recipients, and some of them were designers who were entering the Spectrum awards for the first time ever.

The Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Awards, which debuted last year, were given out again this year, awarded to one female entrant in each of the six Spectrum categories.

Patti Spector Norville, Billie Norville, and Cher Norville served as judges for the honor.

Kevin Reilly, senior vice president of Platinum Guild International (PGI), served as the judge for the “Platinum Honors” awards, which recognize the outstanding use of platinum in colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl jewelry and are given to one winner in each Spectrum category.

PGI sponsors the “Platinum Honors” awards and also presents the “Best Use of Platinum and Color” and “Best Use of Platinum Crown” awards.

The 2025 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards judges were: Craig Underwood of Underwood’s Jewelers; Donald Janson of Walters & Hogsett Jewelers; Blaine Lewis of the New Approach School for Jewelers; Clay Zava of Zava Mastercuts; and Erica Courtney of Erica Courtney LLC.

An additional judge, Jerry Raine of Turgeon Raine Jewelers, withdrew prior to the competition.

“This year’s AGTA Spectrum Awards marked an extraordinary celebration of innovation and artistry,” said Jonathan J. Gad, chairman of the AGTA Spectrum committee and CEO of Gad Enterprises.

“I extend my warmest congratulations to all our winners, and a special acknowledgment to the record number of first-time honorees who joined the ranks of Spectrum awardees this year. Your creativity and dedication continue to inspire and elevate the standards of excellence in our industry.”

Spectrum award entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad‐based consumer appeal, and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones, natural pearls, and cultured pearls.

The Cutting Edge awards honor excellence and creativity in the lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings, and other gem materials.

Many of the winning pieces will be on display during the AGTA GemFair Tucson, which is set to take place Feb. 2–6, 2026, in Tucson, Arizona.

Winners will be recognized at the AGTA Spectrum Gala, scheduled for Feb. 5 in the recent addition to the Tucson Convention Center.

Here they are.

“Best of” Awards
Best of Show–Spectrum: Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection, in collaboration with Marc Höllmüller
Best of Show–Cutting Edge: Oren Nhaissi, EMCO Gem Inc., in collaboration with Yaron Nhaissi
Best Use of Color: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Best Use of Pearl: Richard B. Berberian, Elyse Fine Jewelers - Gemologist, in collaboration with Anna Maria Cammilli (manufacturing)
Fashion Forward: Mark Loren, Mark Loren Designs, in collaboration with Jesus Marquez and Andrea Canzanella
Best of Single Entries–Spectrum: Heath London, Heath London Jewelry
Best of Single Entries–Cutting Edge: Philip Louer, North American Gem Carvers LLC, in collaboration with Michael Christie and Susan Allen
Best Use of Platinum and Color: Lauryn Volovar, Earth’s Treasury Inc., in collaboration with Caroline Patterson, Colleen Schwarz, and Jeffrey Hapeman
Best Use of Platinum Crown: Michael Endlich, Pavé Fine Jewelry Design

See: The “Best Of” Winners

Best of show spectrum 2025 somewhere in the rainbow elements bracelet — Best of Show—Spectrum. Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection in collaboration with Marc Höllmüller’s 18-karat yellow gold, platinum, and cocobolo wood “Elements” bracelet featuring a 14.16-carat pink tourmaline accented with peridot (12.77 carats), spinel (1.13 carats), demantoid garnet (1.12 carats), and diamonds (4.80 carats)

Best of show cutting edge 2025 Oren Nhaissi suite of emeralds — Best of Show—Cutting Edge. Oren Nhaissi of EMCO Gem, Inc. in collaboration with Yaron Nhaissi’s suite of emerald-cut, no-oil Colombian emeralds (12.91 carats)

Best use of color spectrum 2025 niveet nagpal — Best Use of Color. Niveet Nagpal of Omi Gems Inc.’s 18-karat yellow gold ring featuring an 8.48-carat opal accented with trapezoid tsavorite garnets (1.50 carats), round tsavorite garnets (0.58 carats), and round haüyne (0.22 carats)

Best use of pearl spectrum 2025 Richard Berberian — Best Use of Pearl. Richard B. Berberian, gemologist at Elyse Fine Jewelers, in collaboration with manufacturing partner Anna Maria Cammilli, created this 18-karat white gold “Midnight Aurora” pendant featuring a 14 mm black South Sea pearl accented by sapphires (20.18 carats) and diamonds (2.36 carats)

Fashion forward spectrum 2025 Mark Loren — Fashion Forward. Mark Loren of Mark Loren Designs, in collaboration with Jesus Marquez and Andrea Canzanella, created these 18-karat and 14-karat yellow, white, and ombré gradient gold “I’ll Always Be Attracted to You” earrings featuring black Tahitian pearls and golden South Sea pearls accented by marquise purple sapphires (0.80 carats), mixed sapphires (3.69 carats), and diamonds.

Bridal Wear
First Place: Gabriel Angulo, Pompos Jewelry Corporation
Second Place: Mark Loren, Mark Loren Designs, in collaboration with Jesus Marquez and Andrea Canzanella
Third Place and Platinum Honors: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Ellinor Stenroos, E.V. Stenroos
Honorable Mention: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.

Business/Day Wear
First Place: Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection, in collaboration with Marc Höllmüller
Second Place: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.
Third Place: Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection, in collaboration with Jutta Munsteiner (designer) and Phillip Munsteiner (gem cutter)
Platinum Honors: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Susan Eisen, Susan Eisen Inc.
Honorable Mention: Wolfgang Vaatz, Wolfgang Vaatz

Classical
First Place: Randy Coffin, Coffin & Trout Fine Jewellers
Second Place: Jackson Krisky, Youthful Peoples
Third Place: Jeremy Dunn, Dunn & Co.
Platinum Honors: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC, in collaboration with Palm Beach Gems by Nicole (commissioned for them and is for sale through them)
Honorable Mention: Roland Krainz, Krainz Creations
Honorable Mention: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.

See: The Spectrum First-Place Winners

bridal wear first place spectrum 2025 Gabriel Angulo — Bridal Wear, First Place. Gabriel Angulo of Pompos Jewelry Corporation’s platinum ring featuring an 8.83-carat oval cabochon Australian Lightning Ridge black opal accented by emeralds (0.62 carats), diamonds (1.53 carats), sapphires (0.80 carats), and tourmalines (0.44 carats).

business day wear first place spectrum 2025 somewhere in the rainbow elements bracelet — Business/Day Wear, First Place. Somewhere in the Rainbow Gem and Jewelry Collection and Marc Höllmüller’s 18-karat yellow gold, platinum, and cocobolo wood “Elements” bracelet featuring a 14.16-carat pink tourmaline accented with peridot (12.77 carats), spinel (1.13 carats), demantoid garnet (1.12 carats), and diamonds (4.80 carats)

classical first place spectrum 2025 randy coffin — Classical, First Place. Randy Coffin of Coffin & Trout Fine Jewellers’ 18-karat yellow gold and platinum “Face in the Mirror” pendant with a removable bail featuring a hand-carved banded agate cameo accented with a custom-cut “mirror” quartz, diamonds (4.15 carats), spessartite garnets (1.69 carats), and orange spinel (1.27 carats)

engagement rings first place spectrum 2025 nikki swift — Engagement Rings, First Place. Nikki Swift of Nicole Mera’s platinum “Love Struck” ring featuring a 1.74-carat unheated heart-shaped Mozambique ruby accented with baguette diamonds (0.78 carats), round diamonds (0.80 carats), and rubies (1.22 carats)

evening wear first place spectrum 2025 cindy zhang — Evening Wear, First Place. Cindy Zhang of Cindy Lu Jewelry’s 18-karat white gold “Fuchsia Bloom” necklace featuring a 5.50-carat rubellite tourmaline accented by tsavorite garnets (1.28 carats), rubies (0.71 carats), pink sapphires (2.29 carats), diamonds (1.88 carats), and pearls

mens wear first place spectrum 2025 craig slavens — Men’s Wear, First Place. Craig Slavens of Luxe Fine Jewelry and Larry Rice’s platinum “Rock Star” ring featuring a 24.62-carat bezel-set cabochon unheated star ruby from Sri Lanka accented with diamonds (2.50 carats)

Engagement Rings
First Place: Nikki Swift, Nicole Mera
Second Place: Lezlie Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry, in collaboration with Nancy Rice and David Palazyan (stone setting)
Third Place: Raja Mehta, AG Gems & Jewelry
Platinum Honors: Michael Endlich, Pavé Fine Jewelry Design
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Lindsay Jane Chatham, K. Jons Jewelry Co.

Evening Wear
First Place: Cindy Zhang, Cindy Lu Jewelry
Second Place: Richard B. Berberian, Elyse Fine Jewelers - Gemologist, in collaboration with Anna Maria Cammilli (manufacturing)
Third Place: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Platinum Honors: Lauryn Volovar, Earth’s Treasury Inc., in collaboration with Caroline Patterson, Colleen Schwarz, and Jeffrey Hapeman
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Valaree Wahler, Elyzian
Honorable Mention: Mimi So, Mimi So
Honorable Mention: Heath London, Heath London Jewelry

Men’s Wear
First Place: Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry, in collaboration with Larry Rice
Second Place and Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Brenda Smith, Brenda Smith Jewelry, in collaboration with Darryl Alexander
Third Place: Cindy Zhang, Cindy Lu Jewelry
Platinum Honors: Mary van der Aa, Mary van der Aa Iconic Jewels, in collaboration with Tucson Todd’s Gems (gemstone cutter)
Honorable Mention: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC

Editor’s Choice Awards
Spectrum: Joseph Dardashti, Joseph Dardashti Ltd./Sophia D, in collaboration with Sophia D. Karmel
Cutting Edge: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.