ColumnistsMar 12, 2024
The PR Adviser: Closing Sales and Following UpColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire Brands
Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com.
Brands have been in the news of late, with Watches of Switzerland’s acquisition of the U.S. arm of Roberto Coin, and Richemont buying Italian jewelry brand Vhernier.
This follows earlier news that De Beers Group will dissolve Forevermark in the United States and other markets and relaunch it as a diamond jewelry brand in India.
And, of course, we had last year’s announcement that Rolex is acquiring Bucherer.
These developments got me thinking about a related question, and that is, why do retailers struggle to fire brands when they no longer perform for them?
You might think such decisions would always be as simple, as the numbers are either working or they’re not.
If the sales and profitability are good for business, you keep the brand. If the metrics don’t work, you fire the brand.
How complicated is that? As it turns out, it’s pretty complicated.
In the face of declining sales, reduced margins, and unhealthy inventories, retailers continue to forge ahead with brands that once were important to them but have long since ceased to enjoy favored-partner status.
They don’t like the brand enough to cheerlead for it internally or externally but still remain indifferent enough to continue to defer on separation decisions.
Psychologists have several explanations for why this happens, but the two that stand out for me are the status quo bias, and the sunk-cost fallacy.
In the first instance, the status quo bias, we know we should make a change, but the headaches associated with doing so far outweigh the benefits of pulling the plug.
In “A New Way To Think: Your Guide to Superior Management Effectiveness,” Roger Martin wrote, “In short, research into the workings of the human brain suggests that the mind loves automaticity more than just about anything else—certainly more than engaging in conscious consideration. Given a choice, it would like to do the same thing again and again.”
There is a tendency to rationalize the status quo bias as being related to habitual loyalty; we do it because we’ve always done it, it’s easy. The reality, of course, is that it is more aptly related to inertia.
We don’t want to change because doing so means a ton of work, and we’re not looking to take on more work.
Related stories will be right here …
This follows earlier news that De Beers Group will dissolve Forevermark in the United States and other markets and relaunch it as a diamond jewelry brand in India.
And, of course, we had last year’s announcement that Rolex is acquiring Bucherer.
These developments got me thinking about a related question, and that is, why do retailers struggle to fire brands when they no longer perform for them?
You might think such decisions would always be as simple, as the numbers are either working or they’re not.
If the sales and profitability are good for business, you keep the brand. If the metrics don’t work, you fire the brand.
How complicated is that? As it turns out, it’s pretty complicated.
In the face of declining sales, reduced margins, and unhealthy inventories, retailers continue to forge ahead with brands that once were important to them but have long since ceased to enjoy favored-partner status.
They don’t like the brand enough to cheerlead for it internally or externally but still remain indifferent enough to continue to defer on separation decisions.
Psychologists have several explanations for why this happens, but the two that stand out for me are the status quo bias, and the sunk-cost fallacy.
In the first instance, the status quo bias, we know we should make a change, but the headaches associated with doing so far outweigh the benefits of pulling the plug.
In “A New Way To Think: Your Guide to Superior Management Effectiveness,” Roger Martin wrote, “In short, research into the workings of the human brain suggests that the mind loves automaticity more than just about anything else—certainly more than engaging in conscious consideration. Given a choice, it would like to do the same thing again and again.”
There is a tendency to rationalize the status quo bias as being related to habitual loyalty; we do it because we’ve always done it, it’s easy. The reality, of course, is that it is more aptly related to inertia.
We don’t want to change because doing so means a ton of work, and we’re not looking to take on more work.
As for the principle of sunk-cost fallacy, that’s a very real thing and a powerful impediment to change.
We justify the years we’ve spent, the money we’ve invested in inventory, training, marketing, and even shop-in-shops.
We worry our team will struggle with change, when, in fact, they’re often well ahead of the principles of the business, as they’ve lived it on the front lines and have seen the decline in interest and/or effectiveness of the brand.
We also worry that customers we’ve sold a given brand to over the years will regret having purchased the brand from you if you choose to discard the line. Will they feel betrayed and take their business elsewhere?
Every restaurant that ever closed its doors has disappointed some diners. Every store that has ever closed had some fans. And every brand that was important at one time has customers who are collectors and repeat buyers.
The problem is, in all cases, there just weren’t enough of them. Things change and people move on. They are rarely as distraught as your worst fears may conjure.
In fact, one of the paradoxes of consumer behavior is that while it is commonly accepted that shoppers love automaticity, and automaticity often comes from brand consistency, we are also apt to seek out change.
In “Using Behavioral Science in Marketing: Drive Customer Action and Loyalty by Prompting Instinctive Responses,” Nancy Harhut wrote, “People are hardwired to notice things that are different from what surrounds them.”
It’s one of the reasons many retailers love to go to trade shows, to experience what’s new, and it is one of the reasons I believe quality physical retail stores will always be relevant.
Customers love the sense of excitement and discovery often delivered in the best retail environments.
As for those brands you need to address, my advice is, if you can’t bring yourself to completely sever ties, recalibrate your investment to align with the brand’s relevance to your business today, not what it used to be.
That means adjusting your inventory, your case space, and your training and marketing spend.
Block out the noise, including the noise inside your head, and do what’s right for your business.
Happy retailing!
More on Columnists
The Latest
CrimeNov 20, 2024
Sotheby’s to Pay $6.25M Settlement to NY State for Alleged Tax FraudThe auction house was accused of helping clients avoid paying taxes on millions of dollars’ worth of art purchased from 2010 to 2020.
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
Kering Debuts New Jewelry Award With Sustainability FocusThe four finalists will present their pieces at the 2025 JCK Las Vegas show.
CollectionsNov 20, 2024
Pamela Love Channels Surrealist Artists in New CollectionThe “Camera Oscura” collection showcases earring designs celebrating female Surrealist artists Claude Cahun and Leonor Fini.
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for JewelersFrom protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2024
Columbia Gem House Raises $10K for Reforestation EffortsThe money will fund the planting of 10,000 trees in critical areas across Oregon, Arizona, Montana, and other regions.
Weekly QuizNov 14, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Opens Registration, Scholarship ApplicationsThe event centered on advancing jewelry manufacturing technology will return to Detroit in May 2025.
CrimeNov 19, 2024
Woman Killed in Armed Robbery of Sacramento Jewelry StoreLocal reports identified the woman as the wife of the jewelry store owner.
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYCThis fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.
AuctionsNov 19, 2024
‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry SaleA collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.
MajorsNov 19, 2024
Trove Opens First US Flagship in NYCThe Australian jewelry box brand’s new West Village store will showcase new jewelers each month through its Designer in Residence program.
CollectionsNov 19, 2024
Snoop Dogg’s New Jewelry Collection Is All About Love“Lovechild” was created in partnership with Carolyn Rafaelian’s Metal Alchemist brand.
EditorsNov 18, 2024
Q&A: Helzberg CEO Brad Hampton on the Jeweler’s RebrandHampton discussed how Helzberg is improving the customer experience and why it was inspired by the company formerly known as Dunkin’ Donuts.
Policies & IssuesNov 18, 2024
Reciprocity Jewels Returns to NYC Jewelry WeekThe group will host several curated events and an exhibition of designer jewelry made with Peruvian gold traceable to the miners’ names.
CollectionsNov 18, 2024
Dolly Parton Shines in Collaboration with Kendra ScottThe collection honors the 50th anniversary of Dolly Parton’s “Love is Like a Butterfly” song, which shares a birth year with Kendra Scott.
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2024
IGI Jewelry Design Competition ReturnsThis year’s theme asks designers to take inspiration from classic fairy tales.
EditorsNov 15, 2024
Why Fine Jewelry Belongs at New York Comic ConSenior Editor Lenore Fedow makes the case for why more jewelers should be appealing to nerds at the annual event.
CollectionsNov 15, 2024
Marie Lichtenberg Battles Counterfeits with New ‘Raiz’in Scapular’ DesignsThe latest “Raiz’in” drop showcases a newly designed “Scapular” necklace and donates a portion of the proceeds to Make-A-Wish France.
WatchesNov 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: Citizen’s Commemorative Pocket WatchNo. 1 out of 100, the timepiece was created to mark Citizen’s 100th anniversary and will be auctioned off at Sotheby’s next month.
Recorded WebinarsNov 15, 2024
Watch: 10 Tips to Keep Your Jewelry Store Secure On the latest episode of “My Next Question,” two experts share best practices for store security during the holidays and year-round.
AuctionsNov 14, 2024
18th-Century Diamond Necklace Sells for Nearly $5M Sotheby’s sold the necklace, which potentially has ties to Marie-Antoinette, for $4.8 million to a woman bidding via phone.
MajorsNov 14, 2024
Saks Fifth Avenue Cancels Holiday Light DisplayInstead of its usual elaborate display, the store will illuminate its façade and frame the windows to highlight its flagship’s architecture.
WatchesNov 14, 2024
Grand Seiko Partners With Ben Bridge on First Hawaii Store The new Grand Seiko boutique is located in Honolulu’s Waikiki neighborhood.
SourcingNov 13, 2024
Gem Legacy Adventures Announces 2025 Trip Eleven spots are available for travelers to visit Northern Tanzania and Southern Kenya from July 25 to Aug. 4.
AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets RecordThe emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction Phillips also sold a 1.21-carat fancy red diamond dubbed the “Red Miracle” for more than $1 million at its jewelry auction in Geneva.
MajorsNov 13, 2024
Ariana Grande, Anya Taylor-Joy Star in Holiday Jewelry CampaignsFrom Swarovski to Tiffany & Co., jewelry retailers are enlisting celebrities to highlight their holiday offerings.
MajorsNov 13, 2024
Royal Chain’s New Catalog Is Out NowThe 2024-2025 book introduces hundreds of new designs.
