Columnists

Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire Brands

ColumnistsMay 15, 2024

Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire Brands

Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com.
Brands have been in the news of late, with Watches of Switzerland’s acquisition of the U.S. arm of Roberto Coin, and Richemont buying Italian jewelry brand Vhernier.

This follows earlier news that De Beers Group will dissolve Forevermark in the United States and other markets and relaunch it as a diamond jewelry brand in India.

And, of course, we had last year’s announcement that Rolex is acquiring Bucherer.

These developments got me thinking about a related question, and that is, why do retailers struggle to fire brands when they no longer perform for them?

You might think such decisions would always be as simple, as the numbers are either working or they’re not.

If the sales and profitability are good for business, you keep the brand. If the metrics don’t work, you fire the brand.

How complicated is that? As it turns out, it’s pretty complicated.

In the face of declining sales, reduced margins, and unhealthy inventories, retailers continue to forge ahead with brands that once were important to them but have long since ceased to enjoy favored-partner status.

They don’t like the brand enough to cheerlead for it internally or externally but still remain indifferent enough to continue to defer on separation decisions.

Psychologists have several explanations for why this happens, but the two that stand out for me are the status quo bias, and the sunk-cost fallacy.

In the first instance, the status quo bias, we know we should make a change, but the headaches associated with doing so far outweigh the benefits of pulling the plug.

In “A New Way To Think: Your Guide to Superior Management Effectiveness,” Roger Martin wrote, “In short, research into the workings of the human brain suggests that the mind loves automaticity more than just about anything else—certainly more than engaging in conscious consideration. Given a choice, it would like to do the same thing again and again.” 

There is a tendency to rationalize the status quo bias as being related to habitual loyalty; we do it because we’ve always done it, it’s easy. The reality, of course, is that it is more aptly related to inertia. 

We don’t want to change because doing so means a ton of work, and we’re not looking to take on more work. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

As for the principle of sunk-cost fallacy, that’s a very real thing and a powerful impediment to change.

We justify the years we’ve spent, the money we’ve invested in inventory, training, marketing, and even shop-in-shops.

We worry our team will struggle with change, when, in fact, they’re often well ahead of the principles of the business, as they’ve lived it on the front lines and have seen the decline in interest and/or effectiveness of the brand.

We also worry that customers we’ve sold a given brand to over the years will regret having purchased the brand from you if you choose to discard the line. Will they feel betrayed and take their business elsewhere?

Every restaurant that ever closed its doors has disappointed some diners. Every store that has ever closed had some fans. And every brand that was important at one time has customers who are collectors and repeat buyers.

The problem is, in all cases, there just weren’t enough of them. Things change and people move on. They are rarely as distraught as your worst fears may conjure.

In fact, one of the paradoxes of consumer behavior is that while it is commonly accepted that shoppers love automaticity, and automaticity often comes from brand consistency, we are also apt to seek out change.

In “Using Behavioral Science in Marketing: Drive Customer Action and Loyalty by Prompting Instinctive Responses,” Nancy Harhut wrote, “People are hardwired to notice things that are different from what surrounds them.” 

It’s one of the reasons many retailers love to go to trade shows, to experience what’s new, and it is one of the reasons I believe quality physical retail stores will always be relevant. 

Customers love the sense of excitement and discovery often delivered in the best retail environments. 

As for those brands you need to address, my advice is, if you can’t bring yourself to completely sever ties, recalibrate your investment to align with the brand’s relevance to your business today, not what it used to be. 

That means adjusting your inventory, your case space, and your training and marketing spend. 

Block out the noise, including the noise inside your head, and do what’s right for your business. 

Happy retailing!

The Latest

Jewelers of America Fly In
Policies & IssuesSep 25, 2025
JA CEO Provides Tariff Update Following Annual Fly-In

A trade deal with Switzerland seems probable, but reaching an agreement with India remains a challenge, David Bonaparte said.

Entrance to Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingSep 25, 2025
2 African Countries Aim to Take Stake in De Beers

Botswana’s president said his country wants a controlling share, while Angola envisions multiple countries holding minority stakes.

Kira Jewels Growing Rowing Machines
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2025
Kira Jewels Expands Lab-Grown Diamond Production

The manufacturer is adding 1,400 chemical vapor deposition (CVD) reactors to its growing facility in India.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Alex Moss SoHo store
IndependentsSep 25, 2025
Alex Moss’ New Flagship Brings Bold Jewels to SoHo

The jeweler to the stars has worked with Drake, A$AP Rocky, Tyler the Creator, and other celebrities.

Weekly QuizSep 25, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Matthew Wilson, Kavin Kulamavalava, and a Elmasolvex VA
WatchesSep 25, 2025
Wilson & Son Jewelers Donates to the Horological Society of New York

The Scarsdale, New York-based jeweler donated a professional-grade watch cleaning machine.

Representatives of India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council and Indian government leaders
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Tariffs Throw Diamond Trade Into Disarray

The 50 percent tariffs on diamonds shipped from India to the U.S. have pushed midstream manufacturers to the edge.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Father’s Day diamond advertisement that ran in India
SourcingSep 24, 2025
De Beers Adopts New Strategies to Drive Natural Diamond Demand in India

De Beers’ refreshed, multipronged approach, which includes generic promotions and retail partnerships, is delivering positive dividends.

Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
For Jewelry Manufacturers, Higher Tariffs Create Long-Term Worries

They are trying to balance the need to sustain well-established relationships with the pressure higher tariffs have put on margins.

Guest lecture for people with disabilities at the Jewelex factory
SourcingSep 24, 2025
A Helping Hand: An Effort to Boost Inclusivity in the Industry

Jewelry manufacturer Jewelex has partnered with JOSH, an industry training center, on a program for people with disabilities.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Estate Capsule Campaign
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Goes Back in Time With First Estate Collection

The collection includes pieces dating back to the Victorian and Art Deco periods as well as mid-century and late 20th-century designs.

Marcus ter Haar
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names Marcus ter Haar as President-Elect

He previously served as co-chair of the nonprofit’s beneficiary committee.

Jane Goodall Brilliant Earth campaign
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s New Jane Goodall Collection Calls for Peace

Its second collaboration with the conservationist features jewelry with dove and olive branch motifs.

SRK Kriam Pharma
SourcingSep 24, 2025
SRK Launches Kriam Pharma

The diamond manufacturer’s new company will provide accessible and affordable high-quality medicines across India.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Ames Watson Completes $140M Acquisition of Claire’s

The private equity firm has a plan to revive the mall staple.

Super Smalls Super Book of Gems, Maria Dueñas Jacobs, and Bianca Gottesman
SourcingSep 23, 2025
Super Smalls’ New Book Introduces Kids to Gems, Fine Jewelry

The “Super Book of Gems” dives into the Mohs Hardness Scale, the Four C’s, and designs from jewelers like Cartier and Bulgari.

Mattioli CEO Claudio Pasta
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Mattioli Names Kering Exec as New CEO

Claudio Pasta will take the lead at the Italian fine jewelry brand, succeeding company founder Licia Mattioli.

Monique Lhuillier fashion jewelry Kay
CollectionsSep 23, 2025
Monique Lhuillier Adds Fashion Jewelry to Kay Jewelers Line

The new lab-grown diamond jewelry offering is the latest expansion of the designer’s “Bliss” collection.

Rio Tinto tender
SourcingSep 22, 2025
Rio Tinto Announces Final ‘Beyond Rare’ Tender

The miner is honoring the end of an era with an offering of 52 lots from the now-closed Argyle and the soon-to-close Diavik mines.

Vibhor and Alor logos
MajorsSep 22, 2025
Jewelry Manufacturer Vibhor Acquires Alor

The California-based fine jewelry brand will retain its identity post-acquisition, with new collections launching next year.

Gurhan Crown Gold Aquamarine Peacock
CollectionsSep 22, 2025
Gurhan's Collection is an 'Untamed' Zoo

The “Untamed” collection centers on carved gemstone jewelry depicting a range of animals embodying one of the four elemental forces.

Community for Ethical Jewelry logo
Policies & IssuesSep 22, 2025
Ethical Metalsmiths Has a New Name

Founded in 2004, the organization is now called the Community for Ethical Jewelry.

Madison Keys
EditorsSep 19, 2025
These Female Athletes Had the Best Jewelry of the Summer

From Coco Gauff’s hoops to Madison Keys’ diamond medallion, these are Senior Editor Lenore Fedow’s standout jewelry looks of the season.

Vanessa Fernández Studio Curva Wrap Hoops
CollectionsSep 19, 2025
Piece of the Week: Vanessa Fernández Studio’s ‘Curva’ Wrap Hoops

The trendy earrings feature asymmetrical drops, one with a grossular garnet and the other with a diamond.

Graphic for A Step-by-Step Guide to Using TikTok and Instagram Reels webinar
Recorded WebinarsSep 19, 2025
Watch: A Step-by-Step Guide to Using TikTok and Instagram Reels

Four social media marketing experts discuss their go-to methods and favorite tools for making high-quality short-form video content.

agta-sb-0925.png
Supplier BulletinSep 18, 2025
Will Your Design Define 2026? Enter The Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards

Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy