ColumnistsMar 12, 2024
The PR Adviser: Closing Sales and Following UpColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire Brands
Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com.
Brands have been in the news of late, with Watches of Switzerland’s acquisition of the U.S. arm of Roberto Coin, and Richemont buying Italian jewelry brand Vhernier.
This follows earlier news that De Beers Group will dissolve Forevermark in the United States and other markets and relaunch it as a diamond jewelry brand in India.
And, of course, we had last year’s announcement that Rolex is acquiring Bucherer.
These developments got me thinking about a related question, and that is, why do retailers struggle to fire brands when they no longer perform for them?
You might think such decisions would always be as simple, as the numbers are either working or they’re not.
If the sales and profitability are good for business, you keep the brand. If the metrics don’t work, you fire the brand.
How complicated is that? As it turns out, it’s pretty complicated.
In the face of declining sales, reduced margins, and unhealthy inventories, retailers continue to forge ahead with brands that once were important to them but have long since ceased to enjoy favored-partner status.
They don’t like the brand enough to cheerlead for it internally or externally but still remain indifferent enough to continue to defer on separation decisions.
Psychologists have several explanations for why this happens, but the two that stand out for me are the status quo bias, and the sunk-cost fallacy.
In the first instance, the status quo bias, we know we should make a change, but the headaches associated with doing so far outweigh the benefits of pulling the plug.
In “A New Way To Think: Your Guide to Superior Management Effectiveness,” Roger Martin wrote, “In short, research into the workings of the human brain suggests that the mind loves automaticity more than just about anything else—certainly more than engaging in conscious consideration. Given a choice, it would like to do the same thing again and again.”
There is a tendency to rationalize the status quo bias as being related to habitual loyalty; we do it because we’ve always done it, it’s easy. The reality, of course, is that it is more aptly related to inertia.
We don’t want to change because doing so means a ton of work, and we’re not looking to take on more work.
Related stories will be right here …
This follows earlier news that De Beers Group will dissolve Forevermark in the United States and other markets and relaunch it as a diamond jewelry brand in India.
And, of course, we had last year’s announcement that Rolex is acquiring Bucherer.
These developments got me thinking about a related question, and that is, why do retailers struggle to fire brands when they no longer perform for them?
You might think such decisions would always be as simple, as the numbers are either working or they’re not.
If the sales and profitability are good for business, you keep the brand. If the metrics don’t work, you fire the brand.
How complicated is that? As it turns out, it’s pretty complicated.
In the face of declining sales, reduced margins, and unhealthy inventories, retailers continue to forge ahead with brands that once were important to them but have long since ceased to enjoy favored-partner status.
They don’t like the brand enough to cheerlead for it internally or externally but still remain indifferent enough to continue to defer on separation decisions.
Psychologists have several explanations for why this happens, but the two that stand out for me are the status quo bias, and the sunk-cost fallacy.
In the first instance, the status quo bias, we know we should make a change, but the headaches associated with doing so far outweigh the benefits of pulling the plug.
In “A New Way To Think: Your Guide to Superior Management Effectiveness,” Roger Martin wrote, “In short, research into the workings of the human brain suggests that the mind loves automaticity more than just about anything else—certainly more than engaging in conscious consideration. Given a choice, it would like to do the same thing again and again.”
There is a tendency to rationalize the status quo bias as being related to habitual loyalty; we do it because we’ve always done it, it’s easy. The reality, of course, is that it is more aptly related to inertia.
We don’t want to change because doing so means a ton of work, and we’re not looking to take on more work.
As for the principle of sunk-cost fallacy, that’s a very real thing and a powerful impediment to change.
We justify the years we’ve spent, the money we’ve invested in inventory, training, marketing, and even shop-in-shops.
We worry our team will struggle with change, when, in fact, they’re often well ahead of the principles of the business, as they’ve lived it on the front lines and have seen the decline in interest and/or effectiveness of the brand.
We also worry that customers we’ve sold a given brand to over the years will regret having purchased the brand from you if you choose to discard the line. Will they feel betrayed and take their business elsewhere?
Every restaurant that ever closed its doors has disappointed some diners. Every store that has ever closed had some fans. And every brand that was important at one time has customers who are collectors and repeat buyers.
The problem is, in all cases, there just weren’t enough of them. Things change and people move on. They are rarely as distraught as your worst fears may conjure.
In fact, one of the paradoxes of consumer behavior is that while it is commonly accepted that shoppers love automaticity, and automaticity often comes from brand consistency, we are also apt to seek out change.
In “Using Behavioral Science in Marketing: Drive Customer Action and Loyalty by Prompting Instinctive Responses,” Nancy Harhut wrote, “People are hardwired to notice things that are different from what surrounds them.”
It’s one of the reasons many retailers love to go to trade shows, to experience what’s new, and it is one of the reasons I believe quality physical retail stores will always be relevant.
Customers love the sense of excitement and discovery often delivered in the best retail environments.
As for those brands you need to address, my advice is, if you can’t bring yourself to completely sever ties, recalibrate your investment to align with the brand’s relevance to your business today, not what it used to be.
That means adjusting your inventory, your case space, and your training and marketing spend.
Block out the noise, including the noise inside your head, and do what’s right for your business.
Happy retailing!
More on Columnists
The Latest
CollectionsMar 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Sends Gold, Gemstones Into ‘Orbit’McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2026
Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Awards GrantNelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.
TechnologyMar 12, 2026
Caratwise Launches, Names Former Signet Exec CEO The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
SourcingMar 12, 2026
Grandview Klein Opens New Factory in South Africa The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.
Weekly QuizMar 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2026
MJSA ‘Future of Jewelry Making’ Scholarship Applications OpenThe MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.
AuctionsMar 11, 2026
‘Spectacular’ 26-Carat Diamond Going Up for Auction in London The largest white diamond to come to market in the U.K. in more than a decade, the VVS1, I-color stone is expected to top $1 million.
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry EducationWith refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.
TechnologyMar 11, 2026
Cast Jewelry’s Rachel Skelly on Coming Back Online Only Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.
CollectionsMar 11, 2026
Pyrrha Highlights ‘The Space Between’ In New CollectionThe collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.
IndependentsMar 11, 2026
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.
IndependentsMar 11, 2026
Virginia Jewelers Raise Nearly $30K for Children’s HospitalThe group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.
FinancialsMar 10, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q4 Sales Fall Flat The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.
MajorsMar 10, 2026
Saks Global to Close 15 More StoresThe retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.
TrendsMar 10, 2026
Messika Names Julianne Moore as AmbassadorThe award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.
CollectionsMar 10, 2026
Gemstones ‘Bloom’ in Sorellina’s New CollectionThe “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2026
Diamond-Studded Painting Shines at RJO Foundation AuctionThe unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.
TrendsMar 09, 2026
Jake Gyllenhaal Is Bulgari’s Latest AmbassadorBulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.
Events & AwardsMar 09, 2026
TJS Announces 2026 Scholarship WinnersAwards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.
AuctionsMar 09, 2026
Joanna Carson’s Jewels Lead White-Glove SaleThe top jewelry lot of the late model’s estate sale, hosted by John Moran Auctioneers, was an Oscar Heyman & Brothers for Cartier necklace.
GradingMar 06, 2026
Tom Moses Leaving GIA After Nearly 50 YearsMoses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.
Lab-GrownMar 06, 2026
Charles & Colvard Files for Bankruptcy, Citing Price PressuresIncreased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.
CollectionsMar 06, 2026
Zome’s ‘Solara’ Earrings Embody Celestial BeautyThe earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.
MajorsMar 06, 2026
Pomellato’s 2026 IWD Campaign Spotlights Economic Abuse“The Price of Freedom” campaign video for International Women’s Day confronts the quiet violence of financial control.
Policies & IssuesMar 05, 2026
Tariffs to Increase to 15% This Week, Treasury Secretary Says Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.
CollectionsMar 05, 2026
Common Era Honors ‘Difficult Women’ in CollectionThe ever-growing collection, which just expanded with the addition of Olga of Kyiv, features cameos of 12 women from history.
TrendsMar 05, 2026
Engagement Ring Trends 2026: What’s In, and WhyWe asked a jewelry historian, designer, bridal director, and wedding expert what’s trending in engagement rings. Here’s what they said.
