Watches

Why Retailers Should (and Shouldn’t) Be Concerned About Rolex’s Bucherer Acquisition

WatchesOct 05, 2023

Why Retailers Should (and Shouldn’t) Be Concerned About Rolex’s Bucherer Acquisition

Chrono24 CEO Tim Stracke and analyst Reginald Brack of Hindman Auctions shared their thoughts on Rolex’s foray into retail.

Rolex Perpetual 1908 watch
The Rolex Perpetual 1908, pictured in 18-karat yellow gold with white dial and brown alligator strap. Rolex recently acquired longtime partner and retailer Bucherer, leaving authorized Rolex dealers with a lot of questions. Associate Editor Lenore Fedow spoke with Chrono24 CEO Tim Stracke and Hindman Auctions’ Reginald Brack to get some answers.
New York—Rolex sent shockwaves through the luxury industry this summer when it announced it would acquire Bucherer.

The deal gives the watchmaker access to retail in a way it hasn’t had before, as Bucherer operates more than 100 sales outlets, including 53 that offer Rolex and 48 that sell Rolex sister brand Tudor.

For independent retailers who carry Rolex, this direct-to-consumer connection may seem like a cause for concern.

National Jeweler asked a luxury watch industry analyst and a watch executive for their insights on the historic deal and what it might mean for retailers.

The deal caught many by surprise, but it makes perfect sense.

Tim Stracke, CEO of watch marketplace Chrono24, said he was “super surprised” to hear the news about the acquisition and had to double-check if what he heard was true.

Rolex long has denied having plans to go direct to consumer, he noted.

Reginald Brack, the newly appointed senior vice president and director of jewelry and watches at Hindman Auctions, also was caught off guard. “My initial reaction was shock and surprise,” he said.

However, on second thought, the deal made sense to them both.

“This is a deal that didn’t have an alternative for both parties,” said Stracke in a Zoom interview with National Jeweler.

“Rolex could not say, ‘No, let somebody else buy it.’ And for Bucherer, there was no other party that was even close to having that strategic fit as Rolex.”

It was a natural fit as well, with the two companies having worked together for nearly 100 years.

Jörg Bucherer, chairman of the board of directors and great-grandson of the retailer’s founder, was one of the last people to have known and worked with Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, who died in 1960, said Rolex.

Since Jörg has no direct descendants, he was looking to sell the business, which was an independent entity until now. That’s where Rolex stepped in, catching the industry off guard.

But as Brack, a longtime industry analyst, noted, Rolex is known for keeping things under wraps.

“Rolex has always been secretive. It’s always gone its own way. And it shouldn’t be a surprise that it decided to purchase a storied retailer. The very nature of Rolex is all about control,” he said.

Rolex wants more control of its distribution.

Rolex announced in December 2022 that it would certify its secondhand watches, launching the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program, which allows retailers within its official distribution network to sell authenticated pre-owned Rolex watches.

The official U.S. rollout of the program began in May, starting with Bucherer, which also piloted the program in Europe, foreshadowing the acquisition to come.

While the acquisition of a retailer is unprecedented for Rolex, the company is no stranger to acquisitions.

Both Stracke and Brack pointed out that Rolex quietly has been scooping up companies over the years.

“Rolex has done many, many acquisitions over the last 20 years, but the vast majority of them [involved] integrating its supply and value chain. A lot of acquisitions were internally facing,” said Stracke.

Brack added, “Over the years, Rolex has gained more control by purchasing its case makers, by purchasing its bracelet makers, because a lot of those parts had been outsourced, and even consolidating manufacturing facilities.”

Rolex retailers shouldn’t panic but should proceed with caution.

Now that Rolex has access to a chain of retail stores, its authorized retailers may be wondering, what does this mean for us?

Are they about to be pushed out? Not likely, said Stracke and Brack, but changes may be coming.

“Historically, Rolex was always considered a super-loyal partner, and I would say it will continue to remain loyal, probably more loyal than many other watch brands,” said Stracke.

However, Rolex retailers should be vigilant, particularly when it comes to following Rolex’s rules.

“I definitely think they should be concerned,” said Stracke.

“If they have a reason to kick you out, they will probably now do it even faster.”

Retailers looking to retire and hand over or sell their businesses may also be in danger of losing that partnership, said Stracke.

When it comes to supply, Bucherer may get first dibs.

For those who retain their partnership with Rolex, there may be a supply issue. “The demand for Rolex is so great globally that, if anything, it has trouble supplying its retail network with product,” said Brack.

When deciding who gets which watches, Rolex may play favorites with some of its models.

“Put yourself in Rolex’s shoes,” posits Stracke. “It can hand over a Rolex Daytona to Bucherer and keep the entire margin for themselves. Or it can hand over the very same watch to an independent retailer or group like Watches of Switzerland and then give 35 to 30 percent of the margin to the independent retailer.”

“You don’t really need to sell a Rolex, you just distribute it, right?” he added.

The use of exhibition-only watches, meaning models for display purposes only, may help, noted Brack, giving customers something to come in and see, even if a watch isn’t on-hand and available to buy.

“At the end of the day, I don’t think [Rolex] wants consumers who are upset. I don’t think they want wholesaler partners to be upset,” Brack said.

“I think [Rolex] will try to evenly distribute that product so that there’s not one region that goes hungry while another one gets full.”

 Related stories will be right here … 

Rolex likely still sees value in its partnerships.

In many ways, Rolex isn’t like other watch brands.

Shoppers can’t buy watches on the Rolex website.

Even when they go into a store that carries Rolex watches, shoppers may be denied a certain model if they’re not a known customer to the brand.

The company has gotten even stricter about shipping watches, said Brack, even when it’s a longtime, loyal customer of a wholesale jeweler partner.

This distribution style means the brick-and-mortar experience and having a relationship with wholesalers are crucial.

Bucherer operates more than 100 sales outlets worldwide, but the United States is a big country, and even with its 2018 acquisition of Tourneau, it doesn’t reach every major city. This is where the independent retailers come in.

“[Rolex] does put a great value in that in-person consumer experience and [know] that they need to rely on more than just the brick-and-mortar network. They need to rely on their existing, current, and future wholesale partners,” said Brack.

Given Rolex’s rules and restrictions, there’s undoubtedly a need for would-be Rolex customers to visit local jewelers, an arrangement with benefits to all parties.

“So more and more, those jewelers are wanting the consumers to come into the store physically. So, I don’t see that changing anytime soon. But with Rolex, one never knows,” said Brack.

Another Rolex acquisition is not out of the question.

Given Rolex’s history of being tight-lipped, it’s hard to say exactly what’s next for the storied watch brand, but the possibility of another acquisition remains.

Stracke said while he doesn’t expect Rolex to directly acquire more retail space or another retailer, like Watches of Switzerland, it may do so indirectly via smaller acquisitions by Bucherer.

“If Bucherer has the option to acquire promising retail spaces in the future, I’m sure it will not say no to that,” he said.

As for scooping up new brands, Stracke said that’s “unlikely,” but not something he would write off entirely.

For analyst Brack, whether or not Rolex will make more acquisitions depends on what these purchases would add to the customer experience and overall quality.

“For them, it’s always about improving the models, improving functionality. I think that if it can figure out a way to improve the customer experience, it will do it. And we may continue to be surprised by Rolex’s new innovations.”

The Latest

Bonhams New Bond Street London flagship
AuctionsOct 24, 2025
Bonhams Under New Ownership, Top Executives Replaced

London-based investment firm Pemberton Asset Management acquired the auction house for an undisclosed amount.

De Beers Diamond View Zoom machine with monitor
GradingOct 24, 2025
DMIA to Hold Diamond Testing Instrument Demo

The workshop will give attendees the chance to try out and ask questions about three different diamond verification instruments.

Two brooches stolen in the October 2025 heist at the Louvre Museum in Paris
CrimeOct 24, 2025
Video Emerges of Louvre Jewelry Robbers Fleeing the Scene

The footage shows two of the jewelry heist suspects descending from the second floor of the museum and then escaping via scooter.

BTYB10.25_Header.jpg
Brought to you by
Are Earrings an Overlooked Category? What Retailers Need to Know Now

As the holiday season quickly approaches, consider stocking one category that sometimes gets overlooked: earrings.

Wyld Box Jewelry Ray of Light Large Drop Earrings
CollectionsOct 24, 2025
Piece of the Week: Wyld Box Jewelry’s ‘Ray of Light’ Earrings

Founder and designer Rosanna Fiedler looked to a vintage Cartier clutch when designing the sunlight-inspired drop earrings.

Weekly QuizOct 16, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock pendant
FinancialsOct 23, 2025
Jewelry Sales Resilient Despite Struggles at LVMH, Kering

The luxury conglomerates faced a challenging Q3 amid geopolitical and economic tensions.

Cullinan Diamond Mine plant
SourcingOct 23, 2025
Petra Diamonds Turns to Shareholders to Raise Capital

The struggling diamond mining company, which owns the historic Cullinan mine, has launched a rights issue to raise about $25 million.

LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (2) (1).jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Alexis Vourvoulis
AuctionsOct 23, 2025
Freeman’s | Hindman Names New VP, Senior Specialist for Jewelry & Watches

Alexis Vourvoulis, who most recently worked at Tiffany & Co., brings more than two decades of jewelry experience to her new role.

Taylor Swift engagement ring Greenwich St
TrendsOct 22, 2025
The Taylor Swift Effect: Antique Diamonds Edition

The superstar’s August engagement put the stamp of approval on an already hot engagement ring trend.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bracelet
TrendsOct 22, 2025
Don’t Forget These Diamond Jewelry Trends When Stocking for the Holidays

Retailers should offer classic styles with a twist that are a perfect fit for layered looks, experts say.

Fancy vivid purplish pink diamond
AuctionsOct 22, 2025
Pink Diamond, Vanderbilt Jewels to Headline Phillips’ Geneva Auction

The nearly 7-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond could sell for around $9 million.

“Storied Diamond Desert Sands of Eternity” engagement ring and wedding band
SourcingOct 22, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey

The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock by Tiffany High Jewelry Lariat
CollectionsOct 22, 2025
Tiffany & Co.’s ‘Bird on a Rock’ Finds New Perch

Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille has reimagined the iconic design in both figurative and abstract creations.

Jewelers for Children Halloween contest
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
JFC Kicks Off Halloween Costume Challenge

Five dollars buys one vote toward an industry professional you want to see dressed up as a hero, or a villain, this Halloween.

Hillsborough show
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
Hillsborough Antique Show Gets New Owner

Recently acquired by KIL Promotions, the November edition of the public show in San Mateo, California, will be held Nov. 7-9.

Bicolor pink and colorless diamond
GradingOct 21, 2025
GIA Examines Rare Bicolor Pink Diamond

The stone’s two zones, one pink and one colorless, may have formed at two different times, the lab said.

Pomellato Rodeo Drive Flagship Exterior
MajorsOct 21, 2025
Pomellato Brings ‘Global Attitude’ to Rodeo Drive Flagship

Hollywood glamour meets Milanese sophistication in the design of Pomellato’s new store in Beverly Hills, California.

Grown Brilliance NYC Flagship Exterior
Lab-GrownOct 21, 2025
Grown Brilliance Opens First Flagship

The New York City store showcases a chandelier with 1,500 carats of lab-grown diamonds designed by an FIT student.

Douriean Fletcher Messenger Collection
Events & AwardsOct 21, 2025
‘Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture’ Opens at MAD

The Museum of Arts and Design's new exhibition features 75 pieces by the designer, best known for her work in the “Black Panther” films.

Sothebys the glowing rose pink diamond
AuctionsOct 20, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 10-Carat Vivid Pink Diamond

Making its auction debut, "The Glowing Rose" is expected to fetch $20 million at the November jewelry sale in Geneva.

2025_Gemfields logo.jpg
SourcingOct 20, 2025
2 Mozambique Police Officers Killed at Gemfields’ Ruby Mine

They were attacked on Oct. 15, as approximately 40 miners without licenses marched on the mine’s gate.

Empress Eugénie’s pearl and diamond tiara
CrimeOct 20, 2025
See the ‘Priceless’ Jewels Stolen During Daytime Heist at the Louvre

It took the masked thieves less than 10 minutes to steal eight irreplaceable jewels from two display cases in the museum’s Apollo Gallery.

Lauren Gayda
SourcingOct 20, 2025
Pristine Gems Names New Director of European Sales

Gemologist Lauren Gayda has previously worked at The Clear Cut, Taylor & Hart, and Effy Jewelry.

Charles London, Mayer and Fran Udell, Mark and Candy Udell
IndependentsOct 17, 2025
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100

In 2026, the jewelry retailer will celebrate a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The Edit – A Gallery of Italian Jewelry Masterpieces Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 17, 2025
An Edit of Italian Jewels Is Coming to NYC

The new showcase dedicated to Italian jewelry design is set for Oct. 29-30.

Judi Powers Jewelry Stella Earrings
TrendsOct 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Judi Powers Jewelry’s ‘Stella’ Earrings

Take a gaze at the sky with this pair of platinum diamond-set star earrings with blue lace agate drops.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy