AuctionsSep 15, 2023
Men’s Jewelry Takes the Spotlight in Sotheby’s Selling Exhibition AuctionsSep 27, 2023
Antique Jewels Shine at Bonhams London
A rare Chaumet necklace and 20th-century sapphire ring sold for double their estimates.
This rare Chaumet diamond necklace, circa 1900, sold for £305,200 ($371,458), a highlight of a recent Bonhams London Jewels auction.
London—A rare Chaumet diamond necklace, circa 1900, stole the show at a recent Bonhams jewelry auction, selling for double its top estimate.
The necklace appeared alongside several other antique pieces at the New Bond Street London Jewels sale on Sept. 21, where it sold for £305,200, or $371,458 at current exchange rates.
The chain, pavé-set with old brilliant- and rose-cut diamonds, features a fringe of seven drops, each suspended from loops in the ribbon-style chain by the stems of laurel-leaf surmounts.
Each drop pendant, dangling below a duo of pear-shaped diamonds, is pavé-set with old brilliant-cut, rose-cut, table-cut, cushion-cut and pear-shaped diamonds.
The necklace features silver and gold mountings and contains an estimated 32 carats of diamonds.
Chaumet’s first iteration of this style dates to 1896 when the Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria (1867-1932) commissioned the French jewelry house to make a tiara for her wedding to Philippe, Duke of Orléans.
The piece she wore featured inverted arches interspersed with laurel-leaf elements supporting large diamonds in tapered openwork mounts and could be converted to a necklace.
The necklace appeared alongside several other antique pieces at the New Bond Street London Jewels sale on Sept. 21, where it sold for £305,200, or $371,458 at current exchange rates.
The chain, pavé-set with old brilliant- and rose-cut diamonds, features a fringe of seven drops, each suspended from loops in the ribbon-style chain by the stems of laurel-leaf surmounts.
Each drop pendant, dangling below a duo of pear-shaped diamonds, is pavé-set with old brilliant-cut, rose-cut, table-cut, cushion-cut and pear-shaped diamonds.
The necklace features silver and gold mountings and contains an estimated 32 carats of diamonds.
Chaumet’s first iteration of this style dates to 1896 when the Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria (1867-1932) commissioned the French jewelry house to make a tiara for her wedding to Philippe, Duke of Orléans.
The piece she wore featured inverted arches interspersed with laurel-leaf elements supporting large diamonds in tapered openwork mounts and could be converted to a necklace.
Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria commissioned Chaumet to make the tiara she is pictured wearing for her wedding to Philippe, Duke of Orléans.
The Archduchess’ tiara, which could be converted to a necklace, inspired other versions of the style, including the necklace Bonhams London recently sold.
The design was so popular that Chaumet crafted other, slightly different versions of it, making the recently sold necklace a lone and rare survivor of its time, the auction house said.
Also notable at the jewelry auction was a sapphire and diamond platinum ring, circa 1920.
The Art Deco piece features a 7.12-carat fancy-cut sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire within an undulating single-cut diamond surround and flanked by two smaller pear-shaped cabochon sapphires.
It sold for more than double its pre-sale estimate as well, going for £248,050 ($301,554).
An Art Deco ring featuring diamonds and a 7.12-carat Kashmir sapphire, sold for £248,050 ($301,554).
“The selection of jewels represented best-in-class examples of jewelry design from the 19th and 20th centuries,” said Bonhams Head of Jewellery, UK, Emily Barber.
“There was fierce competition from international buyers for rare antique and period jewelry including the Chaumet necklace, which is an exquisite survivor from the glamorous Belle Époque era, and an Art Deco ring set with a 7.12-carat sugarloaf sapphire of Kashmir origin.”
In other highlights of the sale, more antique diamond jewelry outdid pre-sale estimates.
A late 19th-century cluster necklace went for more than double its estimate, selling for £127,400 ($154,880).
Featuring approximately 50 carats of diamonds, the necklace is comprised of 16 diamond clusters, each a collet-set old brilliant-cut diamond inside a target surround of old brilliant-cut diamonds.
A late 19th-century diamond cluster necklace, sold for £127,400 ($154,880)
A pair of Van Cleef & Arpels diamond earrings, circa 1935, sold above their pre-sale estimate as well, garnering £51,200 ($62,243).
The diamond “Disques” platinum ear clips feature spiraling pavé-set brilliant and old brilliant-cut diamonds in a detached halo around an inner baguette-cut diamond circle.
Van Cleef & Arpels diamond “Disques” platinum ear clips, sold for £51,200 ($62,243).
Two emerald and diamond rings shone in the Bonhams London sale.
The first, a Garrard ring, features a step-cut Colombian emerald center stone surrounded by tapered baguette and triangular-cut diamonds between baguette and calibré-cut diamond shoulders. It sold for four times its pre-sale estimate, going for £203,600 ($247,516).
The second ring again features a step-cut Colombian emerald, this time set between tapered baguette-cut diamonds. It sold for £70,250 ($85,402), more than three times its pre-sale estimate.
Left, the Garrard emerald and diamond ring that sold for £203,600 ($247,516) and, right, another emerald and diamond ring, which sold for £70,250 ($85,402)
Two charming garnet and gem-set turtle brooches mounted in gold, circa 1860, also sold at the jewelry auction.
The first turtle’s shell is a carved central garnet cabochon, surrounded by garnet cabochons, all outlined in cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds. Its head, feet and tail are set with circular-cut ruby accents. The brooch outdid its pre-sale estimate, going for £15,360 ($18,654).
The other turtle also has a carved garnet shell. It is surrounded by cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds and green guilloché enamel decoration. The turtle’s head is accented by step-cut emeralds.
This brooch also topped its pre-sale estimate, selling for £17,920 ($21,763).
This garnet and gem-set turtle brooch sold for £15,360 ($18,654).
This carved garnet, diamond, green guilloché enamel and emerald turtle brooch sold for £17,920 ($21,763).
Four items that belonged to British-born American actress Jean Simmons, all gifts from fellow actor Stewart Granger during their courtship, appeared at the London Jewels sale as well.
The two wed in 1950 and were married for 10 years. They share a daughter, film editor Tracy Granger, who is selling this collection, which includes two unique animal pieces.
The first is a Cartier opal, ruby and diamond “Love Bird” brooch from 1948.
It features a pair of different-sized birds with black opal bodies, buff-top calibré-cut ruby feathers, buff-top marquise-cut ruby eyes, and single-cut diamond crests. The birds sit facing each other, perched on a branch that features a brilliant-cut diamond on the side.
The Love Bird brooch did not sell, but the other animal piece owned by Simmons, a dog brooch by Boucheron, went for £19,200 ($23,312).
The dog’s body is composed of two polished spheres, its neck, tail and legs are made of articulated gas-pipe linking, and its geometric head features ruby bead eyes and an engraved nose. The dog is one of three versions Boucheron created of this brooch in 1947; a cat and a horse also were made.
The two wed in 1950 and were married for 10 years. They share a daughter, film editor Tracy Granger, who is selling this collection, which includes two unique animal pieces.
The first is a Cartier opal, ruby and diamond “Love Bird” brooch from 1948.
It features a pair of different-sized birds with black opal bodies, buff-top calibré-cut ruby feathers, buff-top marquise-cut ruby eyes, and single-cut diamond crests. The birds sit facing each other, perched on a branch that features a brilliant-cut diamond on the side.
The Love Bird brooch did not sell, but the other animal piece owned by Simmons, a dog brooch by Boucheron, went for £19,200 ($23,312).
The dog’s body is composed of two polished spheres, its neck, tail and legs are made of articulated gas-pipe linking, and its geometric head features ruby bead eyes and an engraved nose. The dog is one of three versions Boucheron created of this brooch in 1947; a cat and a horse also were made.
Jean Simmons’ Cartier opal, ruby and diamond “Love Bird” brooch from 1948
This Boucheron dog brooch from 1947 sold for £19,200 ($23,312).
Jean Simmons and Stewart Granger attending the Royal Film Performance at the Empire cinema in Leicester Square on Nov. 11, 1954. The film premiering was “Beau Brummell,” in which Granger starred with Elizabeth Taylor. © Keystone Pictures USA/ZUMAPRESS.com/Mary Evans
Granger and Simmons starred opposite some of the biggest names during the “Golden Age” of Hollywood.
More antique jewelry is hitting the auction block this November, as Sotheby’s Geneva will offer the “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection” in two dedicated auctions on Nov. 6 and 7.
More on Auctions
The Latest
MajorsJul 31, 2026
Macy’s Iconic Red Shopping Bag Sign Torn DownThe massive billboard has been in the same spot on the department store’s Herald Square flagship store for decades.
SourcingJul 31, 2026
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Jumps 72%The miner’s ruby and emerald auctions brought in a combined $102.9 million.
SourcingJul 30, 2026
De Beers Sale in ‘Final, Most Challenging’ Phase, Anglo CEO SaysThe goal is for the De Beers sale to be finished by the second half of 2026, with the subsequent approvals process expected to take a year.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2026
JA Heads Back to Washington as New Wave of Tariffs Takes Effect David Bonaparte, along with Tim Haake and Ronnie VanderLinden, continue to lobby for tariff exemptions for diamonds, gemstones, and pearls.
Weekly QuizJul 30, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SurveysJul 30, 2026
Consumer Confidence Slips in JulySurvey respondents were concerned about the rising prices of food and groceries as well as unemployment.
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Vicenzaoro Releases 2026 Education LineupThe trade show, slated for Sept. 4-8 in Vicenza, Italy, will feature sessions on trends, AI, gemology, and manufacturing.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Hillsborough Show Moves to New Location for 2026The public shopping event featuring art, jewelry, watches, and rare collectibles, will take place in Santa Clara, California, this fall.
EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for ArkansasShe was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.
Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino StoreThe jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New YorkThe watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.
