Kering’s Q1 Jewelry Sales Were ‘Exceptional’
CFO Jean-Marc Duplaix said Boucheron, Pomellato, and the other jewelry brands put on an “outstanding performance.”

Here are five important takeaways from the company’s most recent earnings report.
It was a strong first quarter for Kering.
Kering posted revenue of €4.96 billion ($5.37 billion), a 27 percent increase year-over-year on a comparable basis.
The luxury conglomerate owns a slew of high-end brands, including Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, as well as jewelry brands like Boucheron and Pomellato.
All of its brands posted double-digit year-over-year revenue growth.
Revenue from its directly operated stores was up 23 percent year-over-year and up 32 percent compared with the same period in 2019.
Online sales continued to grow during the quarter, said Kering, accounting for 15 percent of total direct sales.
“While we remain attentive to economic and geopolitical conditions, we invest in all our brands, whose attractivity will continue to fuel our growth and profitability,” said CEO François-Henri Pinault in a press release.
Kering did not provide fiscal guidance for the year ahead.
Jewelry had an “exceptional” year.
The company’s jewelry brands fall into its “other houses” division, alongside Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga.
Its jewelry portfolio includes Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, and Qeelin.
First-quarter revenue in the “others” division totaled €973.4 million ($1.05 billion), a 35 percent increase on a comparable basis.
In this division, retail sales were up 45 percent while wholesale revenue was up 22 percent.
“In jewelry, our houses posted outstanding performances,” said Chief Financial Officer Jean-Marc Duplaix during the company’s earnings call Thursday.
Boucheron’s sales “grew sharply in key Asian markets,” he said, and the brand also did well in Japan and Europe.
The brand’s latest high jewelry collection, “New Maharajahs,” was released earlier this year.
“Pomellato’s permanent best-sellers led the growth, and its high jewelry was extremely well-received,” said Duplaix.
“Qeelin’s sales were again very dynamic. The success of Chinese New Year mitigated recent headwinds.”
China’s COVID-19 restrictions pose a problem for Kering.
China has been tightening its restrictions to protect its citizens from a rise in COVID-19 cases.
The Asia-Pacific region accounts for the largest portion of its revenue at 37 percent, with North America right behind at 26 percent.
“We opened 2022 on a very solid first quarter in a more uncertain environment, notably impacted by tightening COVID restrictions in China since March,” said Pinault in a press release.
Gucci, a consistent bright spot on Kering’s balance sheet, had its strong growth in North America and Europe “overshadowed by its exposure to China,” said Kering, adding that it is working to “fully capture the vitality of the market.”
For North America, as well as Western Europe and Japan, overall sales growth for the company was strong, said Kering.
Watches move out as eyewear moves in.
Kering’s former watch brands, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, were notably missing from the “other houses” division this quarter.
Kering sold its entire stake in Sowind Group, which owns the Swiss watch manufacturers, to its current management in January.
The luxury company has been building its eyewear portfolio, growing to 16 brands, including glasses from its fashion houses as well as jewelry brands Cartier, Boucheron, and Pomellato.
Last month, Kering inked an agreement to acquire Maui Jim, a Hawaii-based sunglasses brand. The transaction is expected to close in the second half of 2022.
In July 2021, Kering Eyewear acquired Danish luxury brand Lindberg.
Kering also partnered with Richemont in March 2017 to manufacture and distribute eyewear from Cartier and other brands, making Richemont a shareholder of Kering Eyewear.
There may be new faces on Kering’s board.
At a March 4 meeting, Kering’s board of directors, alongside its Appointments and Governance Committee, affirmed some changes to the board while putting others up for a vote.
Sophie L’Hélias, an expert on Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) issues, resigned, which the board confirmed. Marketing expert Yseulys Costes’ term of office was not renewed.
Daniela Riccardi, CEO of French luxury brand Baccarat and an independent director on Kering’s board, will have her term of office renewal put up for a vote at the board’s annual general meeting on April 28.
Véronique Weill, Yonca Dervisoglu, and Serge Weinberg were appointed as independent directors, but will need the board’s vote of approval at the meeting later this month.
The Latest

The Western star’s 14-karat gold signet ring sold for six times its low estimate following a bidding war at U.K. auction house Elmwood’s.

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

A matching pair of 18.38-carat, D-color diamonds from Botswana’s Jwaneng mine sold for $3.3 million, the top lot of the jewelry auction.


Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

The next generation of lapidarists are entrepreneurial, engaged online, and see the craft as a means for artistic expression.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

It was the second auction appearance for the fancy vivid blue-green diamond, which sold for $7.8 million at Christie’s Geneva 12 years ago.

Members of the U.S. Marshals Task Force took a 22-year-old man into custody. He was charged with tampering with evidence.

While the overall number of crimes was down, there were more incidences in which robbers pulled out guns, mace, or rammed cars into stores.

Jack Sutton Fine Jewelry is closing its store inside the downtown shopping center after 40 years in business.

Reena Ahluwalia’s painting of the rare red diamond is the first contemporary painting to join the National Gem Collection.

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.

The 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

The partners have announced the second cycle of the program, which has expanded to include a $25,000 student scholarship.

The owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.

Jeffrey Gennette, who retired in 2024 after 41 years with Macy’s, is the newest member of the jewelry retailer’s board of directors.

May babies are lucky to have emeralds, a gemstone admired for centuries, as their birthstone, writes Amanda Gizzi.

The new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.

NDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.

The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.

She wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.

Two pieces were named “Best in Show,” one from the retail category and one from the supplier category.

Led by the 6.59-carat sapphire, the sale garnered $9.7 million, a record total for a Heritage jewelry auction.
























