Auctions

Vintage Patek Philippe From the ‘50s Sells for $4M at Sotheby’s

AuctionsJun 12, 2025

Vintage Patek Philippe From the ‘50s Sells for $4M at Sotheby’s

Al Capone’s pocket watch also found a buyer, though it went for less than half of what it did at auction four years ago.

A pink gold Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 2499
This pink gold Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 2499 was the top lot in Sotheby’s “Important Watches: Take a Minute” auction, held Tuesday in New York. A buyer paid $4.3 million for the watch, which was made in 1957 and features the retailer’s name (Gobbi Milano) beneath the moon phase complication. (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s)
New York—Vintage Patek Philippe watches from the mid-1950s through the mid-1990s comprised five of the top 10 lots in a recent Sotheby’s watch auction, with the top lot going for more than $4 million.

“Important Watches: Take a Minute” took place Tuesday in New York and was led by a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 2499 in pink gold, a watch believed to be the only one of its kind. 

Made in 1957 and sold by Gobbi Milano, the watch is one of only nine second series Ref. 2499 watches cased in pink gold. Of those nine, it’s the only one that has a retailer’s signature on the dial, seen below the moon phase. 

A private collector paid $4.3 million for the timepiece, which had a pre-sale estimate of $3 million to $5 million. 

It is the most expensive wristwatch Sotheby’s has sold so far this year.

The second highest-grossing lot of the sale was also a Patek Philippe watch from the 1950s, a pink gold Ref. 2524/1 minute repeater manufactured in 1954 and sold by Gübelin.

A private collector paid $1.6 million for the timepiece, coming in at the lower end of its estimated sale range of $1.3 to $2.5 million.


The third highest-grossing lot in the sale was another vintage wristwatch, this one a “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona from 1968.

The Ref. 6241 features what are known as “tropical” subsidiary dials, sub-dials that have faded over time from black to a rich brown.

Five bidders competed for the piece, which eventually sold to a private collector from the Middle East for $914,400, topping its pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $800,000 and becoming the most expensive example of its kind ever sold at auction.

Rounding out the sale’s top five were a Patek Philippe Ref. 5531R-012 World Time “Rare Handcrafts” from 2021, which sold for $787,400, and another “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona, this one a Ref. 6263 “Panda Paul Newman” from 1969.

A member of the European trade paid $762,000 for it.

Al Capone Patek Philippe pocket watch
In 2021, a buyer paid $229,900 for this Patek Philippe pocket watch that belonged to Al Capone but got only $92,250 for it at Sotheby’s on Tuesday. (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s)


While buyers at the Sotheby’s sale showed appreciation for vintage timepieces, there was one older watch, a circa 1919 timepiece, that depreciated in value since its last sale.

As part of Tuesday’s auction, Sotheby’s offered a Patek Philippe pocket watch that once belonged to Alphonse Gabriel Capone, the notorious mobster better known as Al Capone.

According to Sotheby’s, Capone’s family does not know where he purchased the watch, but it is known that he discarded the original case in favor of having a custom one made in solid platinum.

The watch also has a snap-on case back featuring the letters “AC” set with 90 single-cut diamonds (0.02 carats each, E-F color, VS clarity), and a signed dial and movement.

The pocket watch sold for $92,250.

That is within the range Sotheby’s estimated, $80,000 to $160,000, but is less than half what the seller paid for it four years ago at Witherell’s auction house in Sacramento, California.

Then part of a larger sale of Capone’s possessions offered by his descendants, the pocket watch went for $229,900 in 2021. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

All told, “Important Watches: Take a Minute” totaled $20.4 million, the second-highest total for a Sotheby’s watch auction held in New York.

Of the 112 lots offered, 110 sold for a sell-through rate of 98 percent, the highest watch sale sell-through rate for the auction house since 2012.

“The results of this sale speak volumes, not only to the strength of the market, but about the enduring emotional power of truly great watches,” Geoff Hess, global head of Sotheby’s watches, said.

“The sale of these trophy watches marks a clear resurgence in vintage collecting, grounded in scholarship and emerging after a period dominated by modern pieces. As we celebrate today’s results, one thing is undeniable: passion—not speculation—is driving the market. True connoisseurs are leading the way, while speculators remain on the sidelines.”

To sell the full results of the sale, visit the Sotheby’s website.

The auction house has another watch sale, “Fine Watches,” going on now through June 17 online.

The Latest

Image of Winona Ryder and Iman from Pandora’s Be Love marketing campaign
FinancialsAug 15, 2025
In Q2 Results, Pandora Talks Tariffs, Q4 Plans

The company had a solid second quarter, with sales of non-charm jewelry outpacing sales of pieces in its core collections.

Taylor Swift Etho Maria ruby earrings The Life of a Showgirl TS12
EditorsAug 15, 2025
Piece of the Week: Etho Maria’s Showgirl-Approved Ruby Drop Earrings

Taylor Swift dons the vibrant pair in new promotional imagery for her upcoming album, “The Life of a Showgirl,” set to release in October.

Audemars Piguet Starwheel Watch
WatchesAug 15, 2025
Audemars Piguet Acquires Majority Stake in Manufacturer

Its investment in micromechanics expert Inhotec will preserve skills essential to the watchmaking industry as a whole, said the company.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Nicolette Bianchi
MajorsAug 15, 2025
Rio Grande Names New Marketing Director

Nicolette Bianchi joins the wholesale provider with more than 15 years of cross-industry experience in marketing and product development.

Weekly QuizAug 15, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Pippa Small Myanmar Fish Cluster
CollectionsAug 14, 2025
In Midst of ‘Sardine Girl Summer,’ Pippa Small Looks to ‘Flounder Fall’

Her new “Ocean” collection was inspired by Myanmar’s traditional articulated fish jewelry, with depictions of flounder, catfish, and more.

Casio America CEO Yusuke Suzuki
MajorsAug 14, 2025
Casio America Names New CEO

Longtime Casio executive Yusuke Suzuki is the new president and CEO of Casio’s U.S. subsidiary.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

LA Trading Day
SourcingAug 14, 2025
West Coast Orgs to Host Trading Event, Mixer in LA

The full-day sourcing and networking event, slated for Aug. 18, will be followed by the fifth annual Mega Mixer Summer Soirée.

Cristiano Ronaldo and Stephanie Gottlieb Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Cristiano Ronaldo Proposes With Gigantic Oval-Cut Diamond

Model Georgina Rodríguez received a rock of an engagement ring, with her diamond estimated to be 35 carats, experts say.

International Colored Gemstone Association logo
SourcingAug 13, 2025
ICA Names 2025 Board of Directors

The board elected 9 new directors at its recent ICA Congress in Brazil.

Whiskey Barrel Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Colorado Jeweler, Whiskey Maker Collab on Ring Giveaway

Three winners will receive a custom ring from Honest Hands Ring Co. inlaid with a piece of history from Denver-based distillery Stranahan’s.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysAug 13, 2025
These Are The 25 Hottest Retailers, Says NRF

JD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.

Columbia Gem House Winza sapphires and rubies
SourcingAug 13, 2025
Columbia Gem House Launches Winza Sapphires, Rubies

The new inventory, all untreated, features vibrant hues and unique bicolor combinations.

Gemfields Faberge
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50M

Acquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump Says

President Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.

Jacquie Aiche Thunderbird Slab Collection Campaign
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the Thunderbird

The “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 12, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Take a Better Headshot

Columnists Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share tips on how to elevate your professional image.

Vigil for slain Wheat Ridge, Colorado jeweler Peter Damian Arguello
CrimeAug 11, 2025
Man Convicted of First-Degree Murder in Death of Colorado Jeweler

Peter Damian Arguello, a jeweler in the Denver suburb of Wheat Ridge, was found dead inside his store in November 2023.

Lisa Bridge
IndependentsAug 11, 2025
Lisa Bridge to Depart Ben Bridge Jeweler

The retailer, owned by Berkshire Hathaway, is becoming part of the Berkshire Hathaway Jewelry Group with Helzberg.

Bethenny Frankel
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2025
Bethenny Frankel to Give Keynote at CBG’s Experience Show

The Continental Buying Group’s 2025 Tampa Experience Show is slated for Sept. 8-10.

Nora Kühner fashion design consulting trend forecast colors 2027
EditorsAug 11, 2025
The Colors Expected to Be On-Trend in a Couple Years

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore recently attended a fabrics trade show where a trend forecaster shared her predictions for summer 2027.

Brilliant Earth Jolie Mosaics engagement ring
FinancialsAug 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 3% as Engagement Ring Sales Rise

The company raised its full-year sales guidance while noting it has not yet assessed the potential impact of the latest tariff news.

Jewellers for Hope charity event
Events & AwardsAug 08, 2025
GJEPC’s Jewellers for Hope Celebrates 10 Years of Fundraising

The organization has raised more than $1.3 million for charity since its inception.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bezel Bangle
TrendsAug 08, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rahaminov Diamonds’ Bezel Bangle

The brand’s latest iteration of a bezel-set diamond bangle features clean lines and a timeless design for a new modern silhouette.

Black and white photo of Tony Bennett near a microphone
WatchesAug 07, 2025
Bulova’s New Collection Honors Tony Bennett

The first watch in the series commemorates his participation in the Civil Rights movement, marching from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

Sapphire page in Chatham’s “Ultimate Lab-Grown Catalog”
Lab-GrownAug 07, 2025
Chatham Releases Catalog for Loose Lab-Grown Gemstones

The catalog contains a complete listing of all the loose gemstones in stock, as well as information about the properties of each stone.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy