Auctions

Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

AuctionsOct 08, 2024

Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

The November auction will feature a collection of jewels owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family.

Sotheby’s A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria
Sotheby’s upcoming auction “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)” will offer jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand, such as this colored diamond pin (right), as well as pieces passed down from his mother, including this ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet (left), and pieces made for his children. It is scheduled to take place Nov. 13 in Geneva.
Geneva—As part of its Royal & Noble Jewels sale in Geneva next month, Sotheby’s will auction a collection of jewels that once belonged to Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria.

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” will feature 114 lots that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha.

These pieces, which have not been seen publicly in nearly 100 years, are making their debut at auction, where the collection is estimated to fetch $1.2 million to $1.8 million. 

The offering comprises Tsar Ferdinand’s personal jewels and heirlooms from his mother, as well as pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage and pieces made for his children. 

His personal items “gloriously elevate” typically masculine and practical personal items, like cufflinks and cigarette cases, into works of art, the auction house said.

According to queer history education platform Making Queer History, the tsar was a “boldly effeminate bisexual ruler” who had a passion for opulent fashion.

“Around his neck, Ferdinand wore a gem-encrusted cross on a silver chain, and was mocked across Europe for being the leading monarch in history to cram the most jeweled pins, metals, and brooches on his tunic to a point where Kaiser Wilhelm II once described Ferdinand as ‘festooned with decorations like a Christmas tree,’” the site says.

The piece expected to be the sale’s top lot is a yellow gold tie pin with a fleur-de-lis motif set with a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond and four other colored diamonds.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold colored diamond tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


The piece, made in the early 20th century, is estimated to sell for $500,000 to $700,000.

The jewelry auction, said by Sotheby’s to have a “distinct, sophisticated, and international nature,” also features pieces by several Austro-Hungarian jewelers, as well as the leading jewelers of that time, such as Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, and Castellani.

A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay is estimated to sell for $40,000 to $60,000.

Eugène Fontenay gem set bracelet 1870
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Tsar Ferdinand’s eldest daughter, Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985), owned the bracelet. 

It was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

While the pieces exemplify the importance of high jewelry for the most prominent European royal houses across the 19th and early 20th centuries, they are also a testimony to the tsar’s “exquisite taste,” said Sotheby’s.

His sense was likely inspired by his mother, Princess Clementine of Orleans (1817-1907), who was an avid jewelry collector.

A ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst circa 1880, from her collection is also on offer. 

Bapst bracelet 1880
A ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst, from the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans


It is estimated to sell for $30,000 to $50,000. 

The sale also features tiaras, brooches, bracelets, and objects of vertu, Sotheby’s said, together reflecting a century of evolution in tastes and designs created for the most influential ruling families in Central Europe from the mid-19th century forward.  

 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

While his youngest child Princess Nadejda already was in Germany, Ferdinand’s remaining family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s. 

His two sons, including his successor Tsar Boris III, died during the war, leaving only Princess Eudoxia, who was being held prisoner in her home.

When the invaders allowed her a chance to leave the country, she escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels, which were deposited into a bank vault in 1946.

The tucked away jewels were rediscovered last year and, in November 2023, were offered in the largest collection of imperial and royal jewelry ever put up for auction at Sotheby’s white-glove sale of “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

This upcoming sale is an extension of that story.

A diamond bandeau that Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding is on offer, estimated to sell for $80,000 to $120,000. 

Rothe & Neffe 1890s diamond bandeau
The diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, Princess Nadejda of Württemberg (1899-1958) wore at her wedding to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)


The tiara likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.

Another highlight is Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace, which has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

She inherited the late 19th-century piece from her mother, Princess Marie Louise.

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia inherited this necklace from her mother Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria.


When Princess Marie Louise married Ferdinand I in 1893, her father Robert, Duke of Parma (1848-1907), gave her two rows of diamonds as a wedding gift, and this necklace likely contains one of the rows, according to Sotheby’s. 


To bring this collection to auction, Sotheby’s collaborated with the Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, which also worked with the auction house on “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

Founder Philipp Württemberg said, “This collection of jewels has never left the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble. Some pieces belonged to Tsar Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many of others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous colored diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”

Sotheby’s said the offering is among the most important collections of royal and noble jewels from the courts of Central Europe ever to come to auction.

“‘A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria’ is a unique continuation of ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection,’ offering us a privileged glimpse into the tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life,” said Andres White Correal, chairman of Sotheby’s jewelry Europe and Middle East and head of Noble Jewels.

“His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European Royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honor for Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels to bring such bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time.”

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels sale will take place Nov. 13 at the Mandarin Oriental during Sotheby’s Luxury Week in Geneva.

Prior to the auction, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria,” along with a rare 18th-century diamond necklace also on offer, will be exhibited at Sotheby’s locations around the world, starting with New York on Oct. 9-10, followed by Singapore, Taipei, London, and Dubai. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Cashier handing Rocksbox bag to customer
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers Downsizes

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

Stock image of woman shopping
SurveysJun 26, 2025
After Recovering in May, Consumer Confidence Dips in June

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

Sorellina Playlist: Electric Dreams Campaign
CollectionsJun 26, 2025
Jam Out With Sorellina’s Jimi Hendrix-Inspired Jewels

The “Playlist: Electric Dreams” collection brings lyrics from the musician’s song, “Little Wing,” to life through fine jewelry.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Penny Ruston
IndependentsJun 26, 2025
Penny Ruston Dies at 80

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

Weekly QuizJun 20, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Jewelry Symposium event
Events & AwardsJun 26, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Is Looking for Speakers for 2026 Event

The event is set for May 16-19 in Detroit, Michigan.

Exterior of Marissa Collections’ new store in Nantucket, Massachusetts
IndependentsJun 25, 2025
Marissa Collections Opens in Nantucket as Legal Fight Continues

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet
CrimeJun 25, 2025
Customs Nabs Another Big Shipment of Fake Cartier, Van Cleef Jewelry

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

Karine Choudhrie Big Splash Circus Starfish and Lantern Fish
CollectionsJun 25, 2025
Splash into Karina Choudhrie’s Collection of Underwater Circus Performers

The designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.

Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2025
JA Announces Impact Initiative Fund Recipients

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

John Dyer Montana Sun Sapphire
SourcingJun 25, 2025
2025 AGTA Spectrum Awards Open for Entries

The organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.

Khepri Jewels Luna collection fancy color fringe multi-shape drop diamond earrings
EditorsJun 24, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 2

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.

Lori Tucker
IndependentsJun 24, 2025
Colorado Bench Jeweler Celebrates 50 Years With Local Retailer

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

“Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch for the new The Fantastic Four movie
WatchesJun 24, 2025
Citizen’s New ‘Fantastic Four’ Watch Is Literally Super

The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.

XO Tacori diamond ring
MajorsJun 24, 2025
Tacori, QVC to Launch Exclusive Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Collection

The “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.

Pritesh Patel
GradingJun 23, 2025
GIA Names New President and CEO

Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.

Graphic for Las Vegas recap episode of “My Next Question”
Recorded WebinarsJun 23, 2025
Watch: Top Trends at Couture, JCK Las Vegas 2025

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.

Luanda Accord
SourcingJun 23, 2025
Diamond Producers, Organizations to Kick in Money to Promote Natural Diamonds

Signatories to the “Luanda Accord” committed to allocating 1 percent of annual diamond revenue to the Natural Diamond Council.

Penny Preville, Maggie Hess, Stella Song, and Benjamin King
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Celebrate 6 Jewelry Designers

The winning designs captured the “Radiance” theme.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Single Stone Bryn Ring and Grace Lee Marquise Demi Demi Ring
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Dua Lipa Stays On-Trend With Chunky Engagement Ring

The singer’s ring ticks off many bridal trends, with a thick band, half-bezel setting, and solitaire diamond.

Yvonne Léon Python Gold Bracelet
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yvonne Léon’s ‘Python Gold’ Bracelet

The bracelet references vintage high jewelry and snake symbolism as a playful piece where a python’s head becomes a working belt buckle.

Stock image of handcuffs
CrimeJun 18, 2025
7 Men Indicted in $100M Brinks Jewelry Heist

The heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.

Caryl Capeci Starboard Cruises
EditorsJun 18, 2025
Q&A: Caryl Capeci Dives Into Cruise Jewelry Shopping

The Starboard Cruises SVP discusses who is shopping for jewelry on ships, how much they’re spending, and why brands should get on board.

Kirk Kara fine jewelry
CollectionsJun 18, 2025
Kirk Kara Celebrates 135 Years With New Jewels

To mark the milestone, the brand is introducing new non-bridal fine jewelry designs for the first time in two decades.

Gemfields 36 Carat Ruby
SourcingJun 18, 2025
Gemfields Sells 36-Carat Rough Ruby

The gemstone is the third most valuable ruby to come out of the Montepuez mine, Gemfields said.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy