Auctions

Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

AuctionsOct 08, 2024

Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

The November auction will feature a collection of jewels owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family.

Sotheby’s A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria
Sotheby’s upcoming auction “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)” will offer jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand, such as this colored diamond pin (right), as well as pieces passed down from his mother, including this ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet (left), and pieces made for his children. It is scheduled to take place Nov. 13 in Geneva.
Geneva—As part of its Royal & Noble Jewels sale in Geneva next month, Sotheby’s will auction a collection of jewels that once belonged to Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria.

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” will feature 114 lots that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha.

These pieces, which have not been seen publicly in nearly 100 years, are making their debut at auction, where the collection is estimated to fetch $1.2 million to $1.8 million. 

The offering comprises Tsar Ferdinand’s personal jewels and heirlooms from his mother, as well as pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage and pieces made for his children. 

His personal items “gloriously elevate” typically masculine and practical personal items, like cufflinks and cigarette cases, into works of art, the auction house said.

According to queer history education platform Making Queer History, the tsar was a “boldly effeminate bisexual ruler” who had a passion for opulent fashion.

“Around his neck, Ferdinand wore a gem-encrusted cross on a silver chain, and was mocked across Europe for being the leading monarch in history to cram the most jeweled pins, metals, and brooches on his tunic to a point where Kaiser Wilhelm II once described Ferdinand as ‘festooned with decorations like a Christmas tree,’” the site says.

The piece expected to be the sale’s top lot is a yellow gold tie pin with a fleur-de-lis motif set with a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond and four other colored diamonds.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold colored diamond tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


The piece, made in the early 20th century, is estimated to sell for $500,000 to $700,000.

The jewelry auction, said by Sotheby’s to have a “distinct, sophisticated, and international nature,” also features pieces by several Austro-Hungarian jewelers, as well as the leading jewelers of that time, such as Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, and Castellani.

A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay is estimated to sell for $40,000 to $60,000.

Eugène Fontenay gem set bracelet 1870
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Tsar Ferdinand’s eldest daughter, Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985), owned the bracelet. 

It was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

While the pieces exemplify the importance of high jewelry for the most prominent European royal houses across the 19th and early 20th centuries, they are also a testimony to the tsar’s “exquisite taste,” said Sotheby’s.

His sense was likely inspired by his mother, Princess Clementine of Orleans (1817-1907), who was an avid jewelry collector.

A ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst circa 1880, from her collection is also on offer. 

Bapst bracelet 1880
A ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst, from the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans


It is estimated to sell for $30,000 to $50,000. 

The sale also features tiaras, brooches, bracelets, and objects of vertu, Sotheby’s said, together reflecting a century of evolution in tastes and designs created for the most influential ruling families in Central Europe from the mid-19th century forward.  

 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

While his youngest child Princess Nadejda already was in Germany, Ferdinand’s remaining family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s. 

His two sons, including his successor Tsar Boris III, died during the war, leaving only Princess Eudoxia, who was being held prisoner in her home.

When the invaders allowed her a chance to leave the country, she escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels, which were deposited into a bank vault in 1946.

The tucked away jewels were rediscovered last year and, in November 2023, were offered in the largest collection of imperial and royal jewelry ever put up for auction at Sotheby’s white-glove sale of “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

This upcoming sale is an extension of that story.

A diamond bandeau that Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding is on offer, estimated to sell for $80,000 to $120,000. 

Rothe & Neffe 1890s diamond bandeau
The diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, Princess Nadejda of Württemberg (1899-1958) wore at her wedding to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)


The tiara likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.

Another highlight is Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace, which has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

She inherited the late 19th-century piece from her mother, Princess Marie Louise.

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia inherited this necklace from her mother Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria.


When Princess Marie Louise married Ferdinand I in 1893, her father Robert, Duke of Parma (1848-1907), gave her two rows of diamonds as a wedding gift, and this necklace likely contains one of the rows, according to Sotheby’s. 


To bring this collection to auction, Sotheby’s collaborated with the Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, which also worked with the auction house on “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

Founder Philipp Württemberg said, “This collection of jewels has never left the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble. Some pieces belonged to Tsar Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many of others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous colored diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”

Sotheby’s said the offering is among the most important collections of royal and noble jewels from the courts of Central Europe ever to come to auction.

“‘A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria’ is a unique continuation of ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection,’ offering us a privileged glimpse into the tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life,” said Andres White Correal, chairman of Sotheby’s jewelry Europe and Middle East and head of Noble Jewels.

“His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European Royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honor for Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels to bring such bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time.”

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels sale will take place Nov. 13 at the Mandarin Oriental during Sotheby’s Luxury Week in Geneva.

Prior to the auction, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria,” along with a rare 18th-century diamond necklace also on offer, will be exhibited at Sotheby’s locations around the world, starting with New York on Oct. 9-10, followed by Singapore, Taipei, London, and Dubai. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

The 2025 Gem Awards
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2025
Gem Awards Honor All Facets of the Industry

From retailers to designers and the media, the fine jewelry industry recognized one another’s work and looked to the future.

Eleanor H. Yeh GIA jewelry design
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2025
GIA Names Winner of Emerging Jewelry Design Talent Award

Eleanor H. Yeh is the recipient of the eighth annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design.

 Joseph Cavalcante Tous managing director
MajorsMar 17, 2025
Tous Names U.S. Managing Director, VP

Joseph Cavalcante takes on the dual role as the Spanish jewelry brand looks to expand further into the U.S. market.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the Future

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Continental Buying Group logo
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2025
CBG Expands Las Vegas Show to 3 Days

The trade show has also upgraded its venue to the Caesars Forum Conference Center.

Weekly QuizMar 14, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stafford’s Diamonds closing ad
IndependentsMar 14, 2025
Stafford’s Diamonds in Ohio to Close After 40 Years

The Dayton-based jeweler, which has been in business since 1985, was formerly known as Stafford Jewelers.

Alan Zimmer
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2025
JVC Reveals Recipient of Stanley Schechter Award

Reeds Jewelers CEO Alan Zimmer will be presented with the honor at JVC’s annual luncheon.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant
CollectionsMar 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant

The piece, celebrating birthdays from March 21 to April 19, debuted with Sorellina’s new line of astrological pendants.

Tanishq Atlanta store
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Tanishq Opens 2 New Stores in the U.S.

The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.

Woman wearing Brilliant Earth jewelry
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement Recovery

CEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.

Chopard Insofu emerald collection
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald

The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.

Chris Anderson
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names New CFO, Treasurer

Chris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.

Jewelers of America’s new natural and lab-grown diamond brochure
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds

Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

A rough diamond and a polished diamond
SourcingMar 12, 2025
5 Factors That Will Impact the Diamond Industry in 2025

The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.

New Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Chairman Kirit Bhansali
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Q&A: New GJEPC Chairman Kirit Bhansali

Bhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.

Limelight Lab Grown Diamond store in India
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond Sector

As lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.

Diamonds Do Good honoree Govind Dholakia at medical camp
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees

Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.

Marla Aaron Liberty London Shop-in-Shop
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to London

The New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.

JA New York sign
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo Lineups

Organizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee annual luncheon 2025 logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC Luncheon

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.

Jaythan Lawrence Gilder and body scan
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry

The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red Carpet

Ahead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.

Marco Bicego 25 Years Campaign Isabeli Fontana
CollectionsMar 11, 2025
Marco Bicego Celebrates 25 Years With Collection, Campaign

Founded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.

Hill & Co The List
TechnologyMar 11, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches New B2B Buyer Database

Those attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.

Amy-Elise Signeavsky GIA
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2025
JSA to Honor GIA Employee at Annual Luncheon

The organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.

Picture of Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Diamond Council of America
MajorsMar 10, 2025
Terry Chandler to Retire After 24 Years as Head of DCA

Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy