Grading

A Detection Dictionary

GradingOct 27, 2021

A Detection Dictionary

Having the right testing equipment is as necessary as a scale for any diamond business today, but selecting the right machine isn’t easy.

20211027_De Beers Ignite detection header.jpg
Devices that can detect or screen out lab-grown stones and simulants are as vital to diamond businesses today as a loupe or a scale, experts say. Pictured here is one such device, the DiamondSure from De Beers Group.
Editor’s Note: This story first appeared in the print edition of the 2021 State of the Majors. Click here to see the full issue.

This past summer, diamond dealers, manufacturers, and designers were presented with a rare opportunity—to see and experiment with more than a dozen diamond testing instruments in one room.

Held at 580 5th Ave. in New York’s Diamond District, the Diamond Technology Showcase featured instruments from De Beers, Alrosa, the Gemological Institute of America and other manufacturers, pieces of equipment that are vital for any fine jewelry business today. 

Lifelong diamantaire Matthew Schamroth, a vice president of the Diamond Manufacturers & Importers Association of America and head of the DMIA’s Diamond Integrity Committee, likens the necessity of these instruments to something as simple as a scale.

“You can’t open your doors without a diamond scale. You have to know the weight of what you’re sending to somebody.”

Dealers, wholesalers, designers, manufacturers, and retailers today also need to know: Exactly what do I have in front of me? Is it a natural diamond, a lab-grown diamond, or a diamond simulant?

They are straightforward questions but, unfortunately, there is no one machine that can provide all the answers. 

When National Jeweler did a roundup of diamond testing devices in 2018, several of the experts interviewed noted there is no “magic bullet,” meaning one device that does everything and is relatively compact and affordable.

The same holds true today. Companies often use a combination of machines in concert and, in some cases, have to submit stones to a grading lab for final verification.

“What device you use depends on what your needs are,” Schamroth told National Jeweler when one of its editors visited the showcase in July.

Companies need to ask themselves: How do goods flow through the office? What technology, if any, is the company currently using to screen diamonds? And, if the company has multiple devices, is it incorporating all the technology that’s out there? 

It’s also worth pointing out there are very few detection devices on the market today, meaning instruments that give the user a definitive result of a natural or lab-grown diamond.

Most instruments are screening devices, meaning they “screen out” potential lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants, and/or treated material that require further testing.

Again, there are no easy answers.

What follows on these pages is a breakdown of the devices National Jeweler was introduced to at the Diamond Technology Showcase along with a summary of what each machines does, what type of company uses it, and its cost.

Also listed are three rates measured by the Assure Program, the Natural Diamond Council’s testing regimen for diamond verification instruments.

As defined by Assure, the false positive rate measures the ratio of lab-grown diamonds that are mistakenly identified as natural by each machine. A rate of 0% is most preferable; the higher the percentage, the higher the risk of passing a lab-grown diamond as a natural diamond or simulant.

The diamond accuracy rate refers to the ratio of natural diamonds correctly identified as natural. Overall, a higher rate is preferred, although it is worth noting that this rate does not factor in the false positive rate.

The majority of instruments listed also have a referral rate. The referral rate is the percentage of stones that cannot be positively identified as natural diamonds; the higher the percentage, the more stones that will require further testing.

Companies can use the “Assure tested” sticker on their devices for two years.

After that, manufacturers need to submit them for renewal of their certification in order to keep referring to the machine as Assure tested, NDC’s Head of External Affairs and Industry Relations Raluca Anghel explains.

She says some instruments were up for renewal earlier this year, but their manufacturers were granted an extension in order to allow the Assure Program time to open a second lab in Antwerp (testing will continue at the Underwriters Laboratories facility in Canton, Massachusetts), and to update its sample of testing stones to reflect the latest lab-grown diamond manufacturing technologies.

In addition, updated sample sets will be tested in triplicate for the first time, uncertainty ranges will be reported for all metrics, and Assure will introduce jewelry testing with a mounted stone sample set.

Some manufacturers confirmed to National Jeweler their plans for submitting, or resubmitting, their machines for Assure testing this fall; those are noted in the text.

Rates included in the description of each machine reflect the results of the original round of Assure testing, unless otherwise indicated.

Updated information on their performance will be available on the Assure website, as well as in the digital version of this story, when available.

20211027_De Beers.jpg
The De Beers SynthDetect

De Beers DiamondSure*
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-J color, 0.05-10 carats
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 4.7%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 95.3%
Used By: Diamond dealers, diamond and jewelry
manufacturers, retailers, buyers, and gem labs
Size: Portable and Desktop
Cost: $18,200

De Beers DiamondView
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, all colors, 0.05-10 carats
Skill Level of Operator: Expert
False Positive Rate: 0%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 100%
Used By: Large-scale wholesalers, cutting and polishing sites, jewelry manufacturers, and gem labs for final verification of stones referred from other machines
Size: Desktop
Cost: $35,000-$36,000

De Beers SynthDetect 
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-J color, 0.001-100 carats
Skill Level of Operator: Novice 
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 0.7%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 98.1%
Used By: Companies at all points along the polished diamond pipeline   
Size: Desktop
Cost: $18,000-$22,500

De Beers Automated Melee Screening 2 (AMS2)
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants
Capability: Loose goods only, D-J color, 0.90 mm-3.80 mm (round brilliants) and 1-4 mm (fancy cuts)
Skill Level of Operator: N/A (automated) 
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 0.7%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 99.1%
Used By: Large-scale diamond wholesalers, cutting and polishing sites, jewelry manufacturers, and gem labs 
Size: Desktop
Cost: $45,000

*De Beers’ instruments were last Assure tested in March 2019 and will be submitted for testing again in fall 2021.

20211027_Alrosa Diamond Inspector.jpg
The Alrosa Diamond Inspector

Alrosa Diamond Inspector*
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds
Can Detect: Diamond simulants
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-J color, 0.03-10 carats
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 3.6%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 96.4%
Used By: Jewelers, jewelry stores, gemologists, gem labs, diamond traders, and pawnshops
Size: Portable
Cost: $5,799

*Alrosa’s Diamond Inspector was last Assure tested in July 2019 and will be submitted for testing again in fall 2021.

20211027_Ari by Presidium.jpg
The Ari by Presidium

Ari by Presidium
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds
Can Detect: Moissanite
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-J color, 0.02-10 carats
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 6%
Referral Rate: 4.5%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 95.5%
Used By: Jewelry manufacturers, independent and chain retailers, and pawnbrokers 
Size: Portable 
Cost: $1,199

Presidium Synthetic Diamond Screener II (SDS II)

Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods (open-back setting), D-J color, 0.02-10 carats
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 15.5%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 84.5%
Used By: Jewelry manufacturers, independent and chain
retailers, and pawnbrokers
Size: Desktop 
Cost: $599

20211027_OGI Systems.jpg
The OGI Systems DiaTrue CS

OGI Systems DiaTrue CS
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants, treated diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-J color, 0.001 carat and up
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 4%
Referral Rate: 0%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 93.7%
Used By: Retailers, manufacturers, pawnshops, and grading labs
Size: Portable
Cost: $6,500

20211027_Gemlogis Belize.jpg
The Gemlogis Belize

Gemlogis Belize*
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-J color,  0.02 carats and up
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 6.9%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 92.3%
Used By: Retailers (large and small), diamond buyers, pawnshops, and jewelry designers
Size: Portable
Cost: $999

*Gemlogis’ Belize was last Assure tested in December 2020 and will be submitted for testing again in fall 2021.

20211027_DRC J Mini.jpg
The DRC Techno J-Mini Pro

DRC Techno J-Smart Pro*
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-K color, 0.003 carats and up
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 1%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 98%
Used By: Larger manufacturers and jewelers, mostly
to screen mounted jewelry 
Size: Desktop
Cost: $22,499

DRC Techno J-Detect Pro
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-K color, 0.003 carats and up 
Skill Level of Operator: Novice 
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 1%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 98%
Used By: Smaller manufacturers and retail jewelers, mostly to screen mounted jewelry  
Size: Desktop
Cost: $11,999

 Related stories will be right here … 

DRC Techno J-Mini Pro
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-K color, 0.003 carats and up
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 1%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 98%
Used By: Independent retailers and pawnshops, mostly to scan jewelry bought from the public
Size: Portable
Cost: $4,499

*The false positive, referral and accuracy rates for DRC Techno’s machines have not yet been verified by Assure, but DRC Techno said they have different bodies and software than their predecessors and are “distinctive and better.” All three are being submitted for testing in fall 2021.

20211027_GIA ID 100.jpg
The GIA iD100

GIA iD100
Can Screen For: Lab-grown diamonds, diamond simulants
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, colorless and near-colorless as well as brown, blue to green and pink colored diamonds, 0.005 carats and up
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Referral Rate: 3.3%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 96.7%
Used By: Retailers, jewelry designers and bench jewelers, and jewelry manufacturers
Size: Portable
Cost: $5,495 (pink diamond software update available for an additional fee)

20211027_yehuda.jpg
The Yehuda Sherlock Holmes Detector 3.0

Yehuda Sherlock Holmes Detector 3.0*
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, D-K color, all weights
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 97.5%
Used By: Companies of all sizes at all points in the supply chain
Size: Portable
Cost: $6,745

*The false positive rate and accuracy rates for the Sherlock Holmes Detector 3.0 have not yet been verified by Project Assure but Yehuda notes that the 3.0 has the same detection devices and body as the 2.0. The Sherlock Holmes Detector 3.0 is being submitted for testing in fall 2021.

SmartPro Screen-I
Can Detect: Lab-grown diamonds 
Capability: Loose and mounted goods, 
D-J color, 0.01-12 carats 
Skill Level of Operator: Novice
False Positive Rate: 0% 
Referral Rate: 10.5%
Diamond Accuracy Rate: 89.5%
Used By: Retailers, small manufacturers, 
manufacturers, and gem labs
Size: Portable
Cost: $639

The Latest

Stock image of woman on laptop with charts
SurveysFeb 29, 2024
Want Insight Into Industry Salaries? Check Out This Careers Guide

From bench jewelers to appraisers, Jewelers of America’s updated guide shares an overview of how much industry employees are being paid.

Victoria Gomelsky and Valeriya Guzema
Events & AwardsFeb 29, 2024
JVC Announces Luncheon Speakers

Ukrainian jewelry designer Valeriya Guzema will be the focus of a live interview segment.

Sandra Cochran
MajorsFeb 29, 2024
Signet Appoints Former Cracker Barrel CEO to Board

Sandra Cochran has more than 25 years of retail experience.

GIA id100
Brought to you by
Full Disclosure at Your Fingertips

Distinguishing natural diamonds from laboratory-grown stones – now more available than ever – has been difficult for jewelers. Until now.

Symposium logo
Events & AwardsFeb 29, 2024
Symposium ’24 Announces Speaker Lineup

It’s a “who’s who” of the business, marketing, and jewelry world, said the event.

Weekly QuizFeb 29, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
JA New York Group Show Director Matthew Tratner
EditorsFeb 28, 2024
Q&A: Matthew Tratner on the Future of JA New York

The industry veteran, who took over as group show director last fall, talks about his vision for the 118-year-old trade show.

Macy’s Herald Square New York store
MajorsFeb 28, 2024
Macy’s to Close 150 Stores Over the Next 3 Years

However, the retailer plans to open more locations for its luxury brands, Bloomingdale’s and Bluemercury.

flashforge pic.png
Brought to you by
WaxJet: Revolution in Jewelry Manufacturing

The WaxJet 400, recognized as the world's fastest wax printer, is bringing in a new era of precision and efficiency to industry.

Shoppers holding bags in winter weather
SurveysFeb 28, 2024
Consumer Confidence Dips in February Amid Uncertainty

The Conference Board’s revised January reading suggests consumers did not start off 2024 as confidently as previously thought.

Marti Stephens
IndependentsFeb 28, 2024
Borsheims' ‘Ike-It’ Award Goes to Shop Manager

Marti Stephens was honored with the annual award.

Indian actress Saiyami Kher celebration sapphires
SourcingFeb 27, 2024
Fura’s New Sapphire Jewelry Is Traceable to the Source

The gemstone mining company’s “Celebration Sapphires” collection has launched in India.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsFeb 27, 2024
The PR Adviser: Leveraging Those Early Victories

Lilian Raji offers advice to a “small brand with big dreams” that is unsure of what its next step should be.

Sotheby’s MoonSwatch Suitcase auction
AuctionsFeb 27, 2024
Sotheby’s MoonSwatch Suitcases Sell for Over $600K

The auction house sold all 11 “MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold” suitcases, donating the proceeds to eye care nonprofit Orbis International.

Nikia Levesque
MajorsFeb 27, 2024
Nikia Levesque Joins WJA Board as Foundation VP

The association also announced five new board members.

Matteo Farsura Italian Exhibition Group
Events & AwardsFeb 27, 2024
IEG Names New Exhibition Manager for Jewelry, Fashion Division

Matteo Farsura, former exhibition manager of Vicenzaoro, will oversee the Italian Exhibition Group’s various jewelry and fashion shows.

Lightbox lab grown diamond pendant in yellow gold
Lab-GrownFeb 26, 2024
Lightbox ‘Significantly’ Lowered Its Prices in Q4

The De Beers-owned lab-grown diamond company dropped the price on its standard offerings from $800/carat to $600/carat.

JA New York signs
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2024
JA New York to Bring the Diamond District to Spring Show

The upcoming show will have an immersive “47th Street Experience” for attendees.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 with affirmations
WatchesFeb 23, 2024
Rolex to Open New Watchmaking School in Dallas

The Rolex Watchmaking Training Center will welcome its first class this fall.

Guzema Freedom heart pendant for Ukraine
CollectionsFeb 23, 2024
Piece of the Week: Guzema’s ‘Freedom’ for Ukraine Pendant

Ukrainian jewelry designer Valeriya Guzema’s charitable “Freedom” collection is inspired by hope for the country’s future.

Elton John’s leopard print Rolex Daytona watch
AuctionsFeb 22, 2024
Elton John’s Leopard-Print Rolex Roars at Auction

Two Cartier watches also topped their estimates at Christie’s “The Collection of Sir Elton John: Goodbye Peachtree Road” evening sale.

Buccellati header
TrendsFeb 22, 2024
Buccellati to Open ‘Prince of Goldsmiths’ Exhibition

Set to be held in Venice, it’s a look through the maison’s history.

813-carat “Constellation” diamond in rough form
SourcingFeb 22, 2024
Lucara, HB Group Partnership Revived

It is another 10-year sales agreement in which all the larger rough recovered from the Karowe mine will go to HB Group for manufacturing.

Sebastian Clarke and Katherine van Dell of Heritage Auctions
AuctionsFeb 22, 2024
Heritage Auctions Adds 2 New Hires to West Palm Beach Office

Sebastian Clarke and Katherine van Dell, frequent appraisers on “Antiques Roadshow,” will join the new office.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsFeb 21, 2024
On Data: January Was a ‘Mixed Bag’ for Independent Jewelers

Sherry Smith dishes on the month’s highs and lows and the two categories consumers were loving ahead of Valentine’s Day.

Jam + Rico Claire’s jewelry
CollectionsFeb 21, 2024
Jam + Rico Debuts Second Claire’s Collection

Founder Lisette Scott was inspired by the intricacy, colors, and symbolism of African art and architecture.

Rapaport logo
SourcingFeb 21, 2024
Rapaport to Hold Another Natural Pearl Auction

Viewings start this week in New York and bidding will close on March 8.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsFeb 20, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Life After Rolex

Peter Smith shares advice from independent jewelers who used losing this cornerstone brand as a catalyst for reinvention.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy