Collections

Contemporary Jewelry Designers to Collect Now

CollectionsOct 21, 2021

Contemporary Jewelry Designers to Collect Now

Experts opine on the independent fine jewelry brands with the greatest investment potential.

20211021_Collecting-Hemmerle.jpg
Hemmerle brass, wood, peridot, and tourmaline cuff. Experts say the German design house is a contemporary label worth watching at auction.
Editor’s Note: This story first appeared in the print edition of the 2021 State of the Majors. Click here to see the full issue.

Oh, what a time to be alive.

As countries around the globe locked down at the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, one might have thought the prevailing uncertainty would inhibit sales of luxury items like fine jewelry, particularly with physical stores closed and any type of in-person selling event out of the question. 

But the fine jewelry sector evolved, and quickly. Quarantined shoppers were, to put it quite simply, bored. 

They took to Instagram, where they interacted with their favorite brands, perusing the pieces they offered. 

They visited e-commerce sites, and supported their favorite businesses, with money that may typically have been diverted to travel or clothing instead funding fine jewelry purchases.

Jewelry also benefited from being crafted out of precious metals, a legitimate economic vehicle seen as a safe investment in uncertain times. Gold hit a record high of $2,063 an ounce in August 2020, according to CNBC, marking a 32 percent increase in the first eight months of the year. 

Lots of fine jewelry sellers had their best years yet. Who would’ve guessed?

The surge in jewelry purchases has helped companies learn more about their customers, what they value, what they splurge on, and how their tastes are evolving.

20211021_Collecting-AnitaKo.jpg
A signature Anita Ko "Safety Pin" earring in 18-karat rose gold and diamond

The Hunt for Something Different
The RealReal is at the forefront of understanding consumer tastes. 

The luxury consignment retailer started online and today also has brick-and-mortar stores across the United States. It is still riding the fine jewelry purchasing surge, seeing an average 27 percent increase in resale value for items within the category from 2020 to 2021. 

(The RealReal uses an algorithm based on external and internal market data to determine pricing.)

Fine Jewelry and Watches Editorial Manager Steffi Lee says The RealReal shopper has “a strong knowledge of how to curate a jewelry collection with classic pieces that will retain value for years to come.”

Top sellers are recognizable motifs from major jewelry houses—a Cartier Love bangle or a Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra necklace. 

But Lee says shoppers are developing a taste for contemporary independent fine jewelry designers who might not be household names to the average consumer but are well known to jewelry lovers. 

“Recently, there has been a new playfulness to styling jewelry, and shoppers are gravitating toward new and emerging designers,” she says.

20211021_Collecting-Prounis.jpg
Prounis "Roz Ring" in 22-karat yellow gold with rainbow moonstone

New York City-based brand Prounis saw a 167 percent demand increase in the last year on TheRealReal, and demand for Los Angeles favorite Anita Ko has increased 61 percent since July 2020. 

Anita Ko, in fact, is The RealReal’s highest volume fine jewelry seller and has increased its price per item 29 percent year-over-year.

As of press time, the 10 independent contemporary fine jewelry brands with the highest resale value on The RealReal were, in order: Prounis, KatKim, Anita Ko, Polly Wales, Jennifer Meyer, Catbird, Sophie Buhai, Retrouvai, Wwake, and Suzanne Kalan. 

Auction Stars
Sotheby’s Jewelry Department Sales Director Frank Everett cites Hemmerle, headed by fourth-generation jewelers Christian Hemmerle and his wife Yasmin Hemmerle, and JAR as contemporary designers already important to collectors, “although very few pieces from either house come to auction.” 

That’s key when it comes to strategic investing in jewelry artists, according to Everett. 

“In terms of collectability, look for jewelers who produce fewer, one-of-a-kind pieces that will remain somewhat rare in the future,” he says, though his first piece of advice is to buy out of passion for a work over the allure of future financial gain. 

“When we are lucky enough to consign pieces from Hemmerle or JAR, they sell extremely well,” Everett says.

One need only reference Sotheby’s April 2020 sale, “A Vision: Property from the Collection of Michelle Smith,” for evidence of Hemmerle’s resonance in the market.

Comprising 19 pieces, it was the largest single-owner collection of Hemmerle jewels ever to go to auction. 

Ninety percent of the lots topped their highest pre-sale estimates, with the sale earning a total of $1.4 million. The collection had been estimated to sell for $823,000 at most.

Phillips Jewelry Department’s Head of Private Sales Paul Redmayne concurred with Everett’s Hemmerle assessment, calling the company one of the talents that most excites him. 

“Their designs are so original, so rooted in a contemporary aesthetic.” 

Feng J, a designer based in Shanghai and Paris, has performed well at Phillips too, as has Alexander Laut, Redmayne says. 

In recent years, Phillips has proven particularly adept at establishing selling opportunities outside of the traditional auction model, creating different sales avenues that further gauge the temperature of clients’ interest in contemporary names.

“In the non-auction private sales sphere, we see a host of designers really hitting the mark with our clients,” he says, such as London-based Hannah Martin and Shaun Leane, and Brazilian Silvia Furmanovich.

20211021_Collecting-SilviaFurmanovich.jpg
Silvia Furmanovich "Marquetry Butterfly Earrings" in 18-karat yellow gold with colored diamonds, peridot, tsavorite, and wood

Last year, Phillips launched an e-commerce site dedicated to fine jewelry called "Flawless." The debut exclusively featured works by Leane. 

In addition, the team at Phillips curated an online selling exhibition this year in partnership with jewelry historian and editor Vivienne Becker’s company, Vivarium. 

Called “Woman to Woman,” it featured jewelry from 20th and 21st century female creators ranging from Suzanne Belperron to Lauren Adriana and Solange Azagury-Partridge, and proved so successful that, as of press time, Phillips was ramping up for another Becker collaboration.

Redmayne calls Lauren Adriana, a London-based private jeweler, an important brand to watch, as is Italian designer Fabio Salini. 

“They both share this obsessive attention to detail, which prevents them from producing anything that is not [of the highest standard]. They produce very few pieces each year, such is the degree of attention that gets poured into creating each piece, so the market is never going to be flooded with their designs.”

Just like Sotheby’s Everett, Redmayne is of the art purist’s philosophy that exceptional design should be acquired for the love of the work, rather than as an investment. 

That approach can indicate to a connoisseur that they are onto something that will hold or even increase in value. 

“If you buy a piece because you love it, the chances are you are not alone and that is ultimately what makes a designer stand the test of time,” says Redmayne. 

Material Mayhem
Experts agree that a stellar contemporary collection should pay attention to design innovation, and unique fabrication excites them all.

For The RealReal shopper, Lee notes, “We’re seeing a shift in the market when it comes to the design of jewelry. Pieces that incorporate beads, shells, and unique stones are trends that we are seeing our shoppers gravitate to.”

While classic diamond and gold or diamond and platinum jewelry may be the most popular for consumers nationwide, RealReal patrons who spend more on jewelry than the average person are more adventurous. 

In the last year, demand for colored gemstone jewelry rose 48 percent, and demand for pearl jewelry skyrocketed 137 percent.

20211021_Collecting-LaurenAdriana.jpg
Lauren Adriana "Slice Ring" with diamonds and red spinels in 18-karat blackened and rose gold

Shoppers want to craft jewelry looks that are eclectic and individualized to their tastes and personalities.

“Jewelry is incredibly personal and is a form of self-expression, so it’s exciting to see how our customers embrace new materials and pair them with one-of-a-kind pieces,” says Lee, “like pairing a signet ring from the 1970s with diamond tennis bracelets or layering gold chains with a stack of mismatched eternity bands.” 

The collectors who patronize Phillips and Sotheby’s also gravitate to the unique, and sellers shouldn’t underestimate their appetite for the non-traditional pieces contemporary jewelry designers have to offer, as evidenced by the aforementioned demand for brands like Hemmerle and Silvia Furmanovich. 

“I love that the very definition of ‘fine jewelry’ is constantly evolving thanks to these fantastic talents pushing boundaries,” 
 says Redmayne. 

“Who would have guessed just a few years ago that a concrete ring set with diamonds (Studio Renn) would sell, that twisted bamboo (Silvia Furmanovich) could be set with diamonds and gemstones, that carbon fiber could be mixed with pearls (Fabio Salini) and that a Big Mac and Legos would be worn in 18-karat gold (Nadine Ghosn)?”

20211021_Collecting-SolangeAzaguryPartridge.jpg
Solange Azagury-Partridge "Hot Pink Diamond Scribbles Ring" with 2.01-carat diamond set in 18-karat white gold and rhodium with lacquer

Naming Favorites
Sotheby’s Everett says Emmanuel Tarpin, David Michael Jewels (handmade by identical twin brothers David and Michael Robinson) and Ana Khouri are all risk-takers he’d recommend collecting today. 

“I am continually amazed by the ways young designers innovate and push boundaries,” he says. “Even when you think it’s all been done, someone comes along and creates something really new.”

Everett calls the more established Shaun Leane and Solange Azagury-Partridge, “two of the greatest designers working today. True innovators, pieces from both their collections will become more and more collectible over time.”

Redmayne, meanwhile, adds Alexandra Jefford, Tito Pedrini, Nadia Morgenthaler, Atelier Zobel, and Giovanni Corvaja to his list of recommended designers to follow.

20211021_Collecting-NadiaMorgenthaler.jpg
Nadia Morgenthaler agate, kunzite, natural pearl, and diamond ear clips in platinum

“These designers excite me for a number of reasons, not least because many of them are disrupting the traditional concept of jewelry, be it by using different hitherto ‘non-jewelry’ materials, different techniques, or different stones, or because they’re pushing the boundaries of aesthetics and questioning the role of jewelry. 

“Some lean to a fast-fashion [aesthetic], while others remain occasion and statement piece makers.”

One thing is for sure—the independent contemporary designer’s market share of the consignment space and the auction space is only growing. 

“The traditional larger houses are sitting up and paying attention to these smaller designers,” says Redmayne. “[They are] crafting new collections with a stronger contemporary aesthetic that is a nod to the independent designers of today.”  
 Related stories will be right here … 
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 28, 2025
U.S.-EU Come to Agreement on Tariffs

Announced Sunday, the deal will set the tax on goods imported into the United States from the European Union at 15 percent.

Kevin O’ Leary and George Mayer of The 1916 Company
MajorsJul 28, 2025
The 1916 Company Partners with ‘Shark Tank’ Star’s Watch Insurance Platform

The retailer will refer its customers to WonderCare, founded by venture capitalist and watch collector Kevin O’Leary.

Sissy’s new Little Rock store
IndependentsJul 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin to Open Flagship in Arkansas

The jeweler’s largest store yet is set to open in Little Rock next fall.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

September Hong Kong jewelry show
Events & AwardsJul 25, 2025
Pre-Registration Open for September Hong Kong Show

Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is scheduled for Sept. 15 to 21, and buyer pre-registration will be available until Sept. 7.

Weekly QuizJul 25, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Bulgari Celestial Mosaic spinel necklace
FinancialsJul 25, 2025
LVMH Sales Slip in H1 Amid ‘Prevailing Uncertainties’

Renovations at Tiffany & Co. stores ate into profits in the company’s watch and jewelry division.

Mark and Candy Udell
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement

Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

De Beers marine mining vessel the SS Nujoma
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2

While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.

Francesca Villa Fantasia Collection The Crab Pendant, The Mermaid Pendant, Keep Dancing Seahorse Pendant, Keep Dancing Ladybug Pendant, Secret Dreams Pendant, The Puffer Fish Takes Flight Pendant
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio Characters

The “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.

Breitling’s special Eagles Super Bowl watch on gold bracelet
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles

The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California

JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.

Silvia Furmanovich Kasmir Collection Carnelian Bracelet and Sketch
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern India

The “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.

Bench jeweler holding a bracelet and a tool
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHo

Creative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.

LAFD Fire Station 44 and Fire Station 16
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief

Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

Jacquie Aiche graduated turquoise beaded necklace
TrendsJul 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Graduated With Honors

Graduated stones make for elevated tennis-style pieces and dramatic statement necklaces.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

CCWW Designs Multiple Shell Charm Necklace
TrendsJul 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: CCWW Designs’ Shell Charm Necklace

The charm necklace features six nautical charms of shells and coral that founder Christina Puchi collected on Florida’s beaches.

The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy