The agreement will allocate an increasing proportion of the country’s rough diamonds to the government of Botswana over the next decade.
The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women
The creator of JWT’s “Female Tribes” study talks with our editor-in-chief about older women being left out of advertising and why “shrink-it-and-pink-it” doesn’t work.
![Rachel Pashley started her rolling research project, “Female Tribes,” about five years ago after getting the sense that women today weren’t being marketed to properly. Today, it includes more than 8,000 women in 19 countries. 20171006_Female-Tribes-FINAL.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/cb4995a42dc47e168e54b2bdacb396c0.jpg)
For me, the most interesting part of De Beers’s 2017 Diamond Insight Report came on page 13.
And it came from a woman who has been heading a now five-year-long research project into, as she put it, “contemporary femininity.”
Rachel Pashley is the London-based group planning head at J. Walter Thompson (JWT), the same agency that used to head De Beers’s U.S. marketing and advertising efforts in the United States, back in the big-budget days of “A Diamond is Forever.”
She pioneered a rolling study at the firm called “Female Tribes,” which has connected with thousands worldwide to gain a better understanding of women of all ages today.
De Beers interviewed her for its insight report, noting that “Many of the findings [of Female Tribes] that relate to diamond jewelry are used in this report.” The insight report is informing the Q4 marketing campaign and collection for De Beers’s diamond brand Forevermark, which will launch next week and will be focused on women, particularly those who buy jewelry for themselves.
Earlier this week, Pashley took the time to talk with National Jeweler over the phone about why she launched the Tribes project, what she’s learned, and what today’s diamond advertising is doing wrong.
National Jeweler: When, why and how did you start the Female Tribes project?
Rachel Pashley: I started it probably around five years ago. As part of my job, I travel around the world to various clients, and one of the things I noticed was I’d walk into boardrooms in, say, Russia or China and Brazil and one of the sort of startling things was … it was nearly always an entirely female board room.
It was just very impressive to see that something was changing and it was something that I wanted to record. Because, for the most part, my impression was that as marketers, we weren’t really catching up with what was happening with the real world.
Every time I saw a creative brief, nearly always we were referring to women in terms of their parental responsibilities; I saw “busy working mum” written on creative briefs a lot.
And, yet, when I saw a creative brief that was for a male audience, he got to have hopes, dreams, aspiration, ambitions, and that was incredibly frustrating.
So I embarked on an in-depth research project to really look at how powerful women are in
After a couple of years, I was lucky enough to secure funding to conduct our own proprietary research through the agency, which is what we call the Women’s Index. It now covers 19 countries and over 8,000 women ages 17 to 70. What we can tell is the hopes, fears, ambitions, dreams, aspirations, and views on love and sexuality and technology of all these women from around the world.
It gives a very rich picture of contemporary femininity.
NJ: In the sense you use it in the study, what does the word “tribe” mean exactly?
RP: The tribes are a way of characterizing what I call female capital, which is the value women bring to the world.
We’ve identified cohorts of women in over 22 different tribes and counting.
We define the tribe based on attitudinal data. Whereas traditional consumer segmentation looks at your age and demographics, we think that’s quite a blunt tool to describe women.
Through the research we’ve been doing, [we’ve discovered that] age is no predictor of life stage. You can’t look at a woman and think she’ll be single in her 20s, married in her 30s, having children, retired in her 50s and nicely settled down at home bouncing grandchildren on her knee.
The fact is a woman in her 50s now is as likely to be single and dating as a women in her 20s. We’re seeing women in their teens start businesses. We’re seeing women in their 70s and 80s take up athletics.
You look at the way life has changed for women--the power and status that they have and the things they are doing--and it’s nothing short of a quiet revolution. And I really wanted to tell that story.
NJ: I know you’ve studied women all over the world but, for the sake of our readership, can you share some Tribe data about women in the United States?
RP: The U.S. for me was an interesting paradox.
One on hand, we observed many more Alpha Female tribes. What we see is that women in the U.S. are much more openly alpha and more openly confident in their own success than, say, European Alphas.
We also observed many more of what we call the Traditionalist tribes. We have a tribe called the Nurturers, or the spouse-focused tribe, and those are what you could classify as traditional homemakers. Their sole focus is the home and bringing up children.
So it’s this interesting mix: One on hand, you had a much higher index of Alpha females but, equally, you had a much higher index of what I call the traditional tribes in America.
I think the other thing that stood out in America was there were significantly more of the Not-Mum tribe--women who didn’t see themselves as childless but happily child-free. What we observed with the not-mum tribe is because they are not having to consult with others in decision-making, they make much faster, self-determined decisions.
But, equally, there was more frustration with say, for example, financial service providers. [For example, they feel that] if I’m walking into a bank and I’m not accompanied by a husband and we’re not talking about settling down and having children, they’re just not interested in my business.
NJ: Interesting. What are the biggest mistakes you see companies making when marketing and advertising products that are mainly bought and/or consumed by women?
RP: I think one of the big mistakse is this sense of, “Well, to market to women I need to feminize my product in some way”--the kind of shrink-it-and-pink-it philosophy.
I’m often fond of quoting the athletic/running shoe example … Women are getting into distance running more in the U.S., they are finishing races--more of them than men in the U.S. And it’s only now in 2017 that we are designing a trainer specifically for women’s feet. Before, they’d just take a men’s trainer, shrink it and put it in pastel colors.
NJ: Because, clearly, we all want to wear everything pink.
RP: (Laughs.) I find it quite bizarre.
There’s a computer company that shall remain nameless that launched a laptop for women and they launched it with an in-built calorie counter. That’s just a face-palm moment of, what were you thinking? That’s a fundamental misunderstanding of women.
NJ: Can you provide any commentary or observations on jewelry advertising specifically?
RP: One of the things that I observe--and I think, to be fair, some of the people I’ve spoken to in the industry would observe as well--is that the model of advertising is still quite, in some cases, old-school.
I think particularly in diamond jewelry, there’s a lot of emphasis on love gifting; you’re almost creating a narrative of, “Be a good girl, get a diamond!” And you’re not giving women enough permission to buy for themselves, to reward themselves.
I think that’s reflected in the communication but also, in some cases, in the in-store experience.
Sometimes it can be quite intimidating going in as a women on your own to buy jewelry for yourself. You almost feel like as soon as you’re through the doors, again [like in the bank example above], there’s the expectation of where’s the fiancé, where’s the husband? And of course the big-ticket item is going to be bought by the wealthy male partner and gifted to the woman, as opposed to her buying it for herself.
My other observations would be you still see too many women who are in photoshoots wearing jewelry in a very passive pose. So, beautiful woman, draped over furniture, wearing the gorgeous bracelet--she looks incredibly passive, like she’s the object, not the subject, of her own life story, which is a frustration.
Equally, I also see this--that sometimes the models feel so young. We’re ignoring wealthy [baby] boomer women. Certainly in the U.K., boomers control over 70 percent of personal wealth, make over 40 percent of consumer purchases … but they’re being largely ignored, sort of airbrushed out of the picture.
NJ: Can you give me an example of a company or brand you think does a great job of speaking women today?
RP: I think what Under Armour is doing is really interesting.
Something we saw in our research was that women would rather be defined as “strong” than “sweet.”
I love the work that Under Armour does in celebrating women’s strength, and unapologetic strength. What we see is that women are embracing their physicality and physical prowess.
And we also observed in our research that high-achieving women often have a secret sporting side that makes them the women they are. So they might use sport and athleticism in a slightly different way … not necessarily to win the gold medal but to feel strong and powerful, fuel that inner strength.
NJ: Anyone else?
RP: I like some of the work that Calvin Klein has been doing in featuring [73-year-old model and actress] Lauren Hutton--so featuring older, amazingly beautiful women who are more than 25, and I think that’s beautiful, and actually not airbrushing wrinkles but celebrating mature, beautiful, iconic women who have substance to them as well.
The Latest
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“Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry From the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels,” opens April 11 at the American Museum of Natural History.
![The “Sweet Life” ring by Mined + Found is made of 14-karat yellow gold with enamel and diamonds ($6,450). Consumers are expected to spend a record $27.5 billion on Valentine’s Day this year, according to the annual survey by the NRF and Prosper Insights & Analytics. Chocolate box ring by Mined + Found](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3e435626bba1270b46bdf27f7be2bb1d.jpg)
Those celebrating Valentine’s Day this year are expected to spend a record $27.5 billion on jewels, flowers, candy, and more.
![Top Image.png](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/17d84393fb1ce78143e2cc3ca59f2af5.png)
Colored stones are stepping into a jewelry spotlight typically reserved for diamonds—are you ready to sell color?
![Qurate, the parent company of HSN and QVC, is closing HSN’s Florida campus as it consolidates operations. The company introduced HSN+ and QVC+, a live video streaming shoppable app, in 2022. (Image courtesy of Qurate Retail Group) HSN+ QVC+ logos on a television, laptop, and phone screen](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/040c24a9e98572cc5b6d1f07484b4484.jpg)
Layoffs will reportedly start next month as HSN plans to move into QVC’s location in Pennsylvania.
![](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/99a46b30cc354962ac2e29ecd113587a.jpg)
![This yellow diamond line bracelet (left), which Michael Jackson gifted to Elizabeth Taylor, sold for $147,480 at Woolley & Wallis’ recent jewelry sale, while the Cartier necklace seen at right sold for $85,218. (Photos courtesy of Woolley & Wallis). Elizabeth Taylor diamond bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/83e92a5ff5ec4c00b95c559750c5669a.jpg)
The auction also featured the sale of a Cartier necklace made when Egyptomania was sweeping Great Britain.
![Lalaounis Blossom Rosette charm](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/03ee4d476077e127d77a835d102ab203.jpg)
The “Blossom Rosette” blooms with love, beauty, and hope for the year ahead.
![Resolutions - 2025.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7b2ba343f8d947757b0ff597db4ca873.jpg)
The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
![Harvey Rovinsky with his wife of 50-plus years, Maddy Rovinsky, in a picture submitted to National Jeweler when they were inducted into the Retailer Hall of Fame in 2022. Rovinsky died suddenly on Tuesday at age 77. Harvey Rovinsky, former owner of Bernie Robbins Jewelers](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/0bd3775c9c5977d5c0573768722df34d.jpg)
Rovinsky is remembered as a great mentor who made the employees of his stores feel like family.
![At the upcoming Centurion jewelry trade show, Facets of Fire is hosting the “Facets of Fire Diamond Charity Challenge,” which asks retailers to choose the brightest diamond in the group. Three diamonds in a row](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/974d953a632e584b544bac2bd920454b.jpg)
For every jeweler who tries their luck, the company will make a donation to Jewelers for Children.
![Over the last few weeks, the boards of at least five Women’s Jewelry Association regional chapters have announced their resignations, raising questions about the future of the organization. Women’s Jewelry Association logo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/95e3c5f4dc0d7e557460ab0787bb41db.jpg)
The boards of at least five chapters have resigned in response to controversial statements the WJA national board president made last month.
![Melanie Grant is resigning as executive director of the Responsible Jewellery Council. John Hall will serve as interim executive director while the organization searches for a replacement. (Photo credit: Andrew Werner) Jewelry writer and curator Melanie Grant](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7bfef18781617e0e0160360858123304.jpg)
An experienced jewelry writer and curator, Grant led the organization for two years.
![The Tahitian pearl necklace from the “Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams” collection features black South Sea pearls, pavé diamonds, and 18-karat rose gold rondelles and clasp ($60,000). Pharrell Williams and Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams Tahitian Pearl Necklace](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/22a5f3db416d253725f41b424aee6e24.jpg)
Five new designs were added, all donning Tahitian cultured pearls and spear-like trident motifs, along with the new “Titan” setting.
![Converge will be held Sept. 7-10 in Carlsbad, California, at GIA’s headquarters and the Omni La Costa Resort. Converge 2025 logo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/5e17f7e23c92304cf356de4c9f0c3331.jpg)
The inaugural event is being co-hosted by the American Gem Society and the Gemological Institute of America.
![The 24 Karat Club of New York has elected these five new members. From left to right are Annie Doresca, Jake Duneier, John W. Ford Sr., Margot Grinberg, and Ivette Stephanopoulos. Annie Doresca, Jake Duneier, John W. Ford Sr., Margot Grinberg, and Ivette Stephanopoulos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/ab2df59e33a9359d4cd040aeacf1200e.jpg)
Jewelers of America’s Annie Doresca and AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. are among the new members.
![The collection, designed by Claire Choisne, is broken into two sections, plants and insects, building a story of nature taking over the body of its wearer. Seen here are the “Scarabée Rhinoceros” ring turned brooch depicting a rhinoceros beetle and the “Chardon” necklace representing thistle (all pieces are price upon request). Boucheron Scarabée Rhinocéros ring/brooch and Chardon necklace](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/d4357d5f3051138e0844ea963b5b7a09.jpg)
The jeweler’s latest high jewelry collection looks into the Boucheron archives to create a “living encyclopedia of high jewelry.”
![Tiffany & Co., which celebrated the 50th anniversary of designer Elsa Peretti’s “Bone” cuff in 2024, is one of the jewelry houses owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH. LVMH’s jewelry and watch sales slipped 3 percent year-over-year in 2024, the company reported Tuesday. Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Bone Cuff](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/d27e3a177959e749c49e0a9e5f09d778.jpg)
Watch and jewelry sales slipped 3 percent in 2024, though the luxury conglomerate did see business pick up in the fourth quarter.
![Olivier Kessler-Gay, Chanel’s new general manager of watches and fine jewelry for the United States, previously held roles at Pandora and Cartier. Olivier Kessler-Gay](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/11b8671d3371ab24d2a04de73fc26581.jpg)
Olivier Kessler-Gay will take over the role on March 3.
![The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index declined again in January, slipping to 104.1. Consumers surveyed were more pessimistic about the current job market and are concerned about lingering inflation and recent signals from the Federal Reserve that the pace of interest rate cuts will slow in 2025. Stock image of couple shopping for jewelry](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/f7beaa918fc783eb829ffed46ffdcf09.jpg)
It hit a four-month low in January due to concerns about the job market, though consumers remain bullish about the stock market.
![Mokume Gane is an ancient Japanese metalworking technique where metals are fused in a layered design that resembles the natural grain of wood. Seen here are six of Chris Ploof’s hand-forged Mokume Gane rings created using the technique. Chris Ploof 6 Mokume Gane Rings](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/e1e2099a2d2ce161b71d178e616d7c06.jpg)
The jewelry designer and master metalsmith will present on the ancient Japanese metalworking technique at the Atlanta Jewelry Show in March.
![The World Federation of Diamond Bourses recently debuted “Moments,” a new social media campaign to promote natural diamonds. (Photo courtesy of WFDB) WFDB Moments campaign](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/0939a229e2a8046503c6119840916cd7.jpg)
The “Moments” social media campaign emphasizes the emotional ties between natural diamonds and life’s special milestones.
![Many pieces throughout Lau’s “As We Are” collection are interchangeable for customization. Seen here are the “Nuance” chain huggie hoops ($2,320) styled with the black jade “Vantage” curios ($2,195). Bliss Lau As We Are Collection Campaign](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/f338062ddbdc7ea546cd7057289ce109.jpg)
The versatile “As We Are” collection features 14 pieces with interlocking designs allowing for 27 different looks worn around the body.
![Botswana’s Letsile Tebogo, who won the men’s 200 meters at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, is now a global brand ambassador for De Beers Group. (Photo courtesy of De Beers Group) Olympic gold medalist and De Beers ambassador Letsile Tebogo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/559d087dc0cf60401f532a844d62c1ba.jpg)
Letsile Tebogo will help to promote natural diamonds and the good they have done for his country.
![Pictured is a selection of rings from Swedish jewelry brand Hargreaves Stockholm, one of several NouvelleBox brands exhibiting at the platform’s showcase next week in New York City. Hargreaves Stockholm NouvelleBox](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/5e393d072517d1ed923b6c7de82f730f.jpg)
The showcase, in its second year, will feature more than 20 international brands at its curated event from Feb. 2-4.
![The Edge Retail Academy’s Sherry Smith and Edahn Golan were the guests on the “Predictions for the Year Ahead” episode of “My Next Question.” Graphic for “Predictions for the Year Ahead” webinar](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/67936806aa0a0e9f3a822a6b842a57af.png)
“My Next Question” guests Sherry Smith and Edahn Golan share their 2025 forecasts, from sales and marketing to what retailers should stock.
![At AGTA GemFair in Tucson, Arizona, next month, attendees can view live gem cutting and several presentations as part of the organization’s “Inspired” seminar series. AGTA Seminar Series](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/33d29e36d8b476ab7243dd9b737cc599.jpg)
The seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.
![Le Vian Chairman Lawrence (Larry) LeVian, seated in front with his mother, Pary LeVian, to his left and his wife, Angela LeVian, behind him, died of complications from Parkinson’s, the LeVian family announced last week. He was 73. A picture of the LeVian family including Larry LeVian](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/e4e04e82c1ceb4754b4889520a0586b2.jpg)
LeVian is remembered for his leadership in the jewelry industry and for being a selfless and compassionate person.