Editors

The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women

EditorsOct 06, 2017

The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women

The creator of JWT’s “Female Tribes” study talks with our editor-in-chief about older women being left out of advertising and why “shrink-it-and-pink-it” doesn’t work.

20171006_Female-Tribes-FINAL.jpg
Rachel Pashley started her rolling research project, “Female Tribes,” about five years ago after getting the sense that women today weren’t being marketed to properly. Today, it includes more than 8,000 women in 19 countries.

For me, the most interesting part of De Beers’s 2017 Diamond Insight Report came on page 13.

And it came from a woman who has been heading a now five-year-long research project into, as she put it, “contemporary femininity.”

Rachel Pashley is the London-based group planning head at J. Walter Thompson (JWT), the same agency that used to head De Beers’s U.S. marketing and advertising efforts in the United States, back in the big-budget days of “A Diamond is Forever.”

She pioneered a rolling study at the firm called “Female Tribes,” which has connected with thousands worldwide to gain a better understanding of women of all ages today.

De Beers interviewed her for its insight report, noting that “Many of the findings [of Female Tribes] that relate to diamond jewelry are used in this report.” The insight report is informing the Q4 marketing campaign and collection for De Beers’s diamond brand Forevermark, which will launch next week and will be focused on women, particularly those who buy jewelry for themselves.

Earlier this week, Pashley took the time to talk with National Jeweler over the phone about why she launched the Tribes project, what she’s learned, and what today’s diamond advertising is doing wrong.

National Jeweler: When, why and how did you start the Female Tribes project?

Rachel Pashley: I started it probably around five years ago. As part of my job, I travel around the world to various clients, and one of the things I noticed was I’d walk into boardrooms in, say, Russia or China and Brazil and one of the sort of startling things was … it was nearly always an entirely female board room.

It was just very impressive to see that something was changing and it was something that I wanted to record. Because, for the most part, my impression was that as marketers, we weren’t really catching up with what was happening with the real world.

Every time I saw a creative brief, nearly always we were referring to women in terms of their parental responsibilities; I saw “busy working mum” written on creative briefs a lot.

And, yet, when I saw a creative brief that was for a male audience, he got to have hopes, dreams, aspiration, ambitions, and that was incredibly frustrating.

So I embarked on an in-depth research project to really look at how powerful women are in

the world and how their roles are evolving. And it sort of snowballed.

After a couple of years, I was lucky enough to secure funding to conduct our own proprietary research through the agency, which is what we call the Women’s Index. It now covers 19 countries and over 8,000 women ages 17 to 70. What we can tell is the hopes, fears, ambitions, dreams, aspirations, and views on love and sexuality and technology of all these women from around the world.

It gives a very rich picture of contemporary femininity.

NJ: In the sense you use it in the study, what does the word “tribe” mean exactly?

RP: The tribes are a way of characterizing what I call female capital, which is the value women bring to the world.

We’ve identified cohorts of women in over 22 different tribes and counting.

We define the tribe based on attitudinal data. Whereas traditional consumer segmentation looks at your age and demographics, we think that’s quite a blunt tool to describe women.

Through the research we’ve been doing, [we’ve discovered that] age is no predictor of life stage. You can’t look at a woman and think she’ll be single in her 20s, married in her 30s, having children, retired in her 50s and nicely settled down at home bouncing grandchildren on her knee.

The fact is a woman in her 50s now is as likely to be single and dating as a women in her 20s. We’re seeing women in their teens start businesses. We’re seeing women in their 70s and 80s take up athletics.

You look at the way life has changed for women--the power and status that they have and the things they are doing--and it’s nothing short of a quiet revolution. And I really wanted to tell that story.

NJ: I know you’ve studied women all over the world but, for the sake of our readership, can you share some Tribe data about women in the United States?

RP: The U.S. for me was an interesting paradox.

One on hand, we observed many more Alpha Female tribes. What we see is that women in the U.S. are much more openly alpha and more openly confident in their own success than, say, European Alphas.

We also observed many more of what we call the Traditionalist tribes. We have a tribe called the Nurturers, or the spouse-focused tribe, and those are what you could classify as traditional homemakers. Their sole focus is the home and bringing up children.

So it’s this interesting mix: One on hand, you had a much higher index of Alpha females but, equally, you had a much higher index of what I call the traditional tribes in America.

I think the other thing that stood out in America was there were significantly more of the Not-Mum tribe--women who didn’t see themselves as childless but happily child-free. What we observed with the not-mum tribe is because they are not having to consult with others in decision-making, they make much faster, self-determined decisions.

But, equally, there was more frustration with say, for example, financial service providers. [For example, they feel that] if I’m walking into a bank and I’m not accompanied by a husband and we’re not talking about settling down and having children, they’re just not interested in my business.

NJ: Interesting. What are the biggest mistakes you see companies making when marketing and advertising products that are mainly bought and/or consumed by women?

RP: I think one of the big mistakse is this sense of, “Well, to market to women I need to feminize my product in some way”--the kind of shrink-it-and-pink-it philosophy.

I’m often fond of quoting the athletic/running shoe example … Women are getting into distance running more in the U.S., they are finishing races--more of them than men in the U.S. And it’s only now in 2017 that we are designing a trainer specifically for women’s feet. Before, they’d just take a men’s trainer, shrink it and put it in pastel colors.

NJ: Because, clearly, we all want to wear everything pink.

RP: (Laughs.) I find it quite bizarre.

There’s a computer company that shall remain nameless that launched a laptop for women and they launched it with an in-built calorie counter. That’s just a face-palm moment of, what were you thinking? That’s a fundamental misunderstanding of women.

NJ: Can you provide any commentary or observations on jewelry advertising specifically?

RP: One of the things that I observe--and I think, to be fair, some of the people I’ve spoken to in the industry would observe as well--is that the model of advertising is still quite, in some cases, old-school.

I think particularly in diamond jewelry, there’s a lot of emphasis on love gifting; you’re almost creating a narrative of, “Be a good girl, get a diamond!” And you’re not giving women enough permission to buy for themselves, to reward themselves.

I think that’s reflected in the communication but also, in some cases, in the in-store experience.

Sometimes it can be quite intimidating going in as a women on your own to buy jewelry for yourself. You almost feel like as soon as you’re through the doors, again [like in the bank example above], there’s the expectation of where’s the fiancé, where’s the husband? And of course the big-ticket item is going to be bought by the wealthy male partner and gifted to the woman, as opposed to her buying it for herself.

My other observations would be you still see too many women who are in photoshoots wearing jewelry in a very passive pose. So, beautiful woman, draped over furniture, wearing the gorgeous bracelet--she looks incredibly passive, like she’s the object, not the subject, of her own life story, which is a frustration.

Equally, I also see this--that sometimes the models feel so young. We’re ignoring wealthy [baby] boomer women. Certainly in the U.K., boomers control over 70 percent of personal wealth, make over 40 percent of consumer purchases … but they’re being largely ignored, sort of airbrushed out of the picture.

NJ: Can you give me an example of a company or brand you think does a great job of speaking women today?

RP: I think what Under Armour is doing is really interesting.

Something we saw in our research was that women would rather be defined as “strong” than “sweet.”

I love the work that Under Armour does in celebrating women’s strength, and unapologetic strength. What we see is that women are embracing their physicality and physical prowess.

And we also observed in our research that high-achieving women often have a secret sporting side that makes them the women they are. So they might use sport and athleticism in a slightly different way … not necessarily to win the gold medal but to feel strong and powerful, fuel that inner strength.

NJ: Anyone else?

RP: I like some of the work that Calvin Klein has been doing in featuring [73-year-old model and actress] Lauren Hutton--so featuring older, amazingly beautiful women who are more than 25, and I think that’s beautiful, and actually not airbrushing wrinkles but celebrating mature, beautiful, iconic women who have substance to them as well.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Hiba Husayni, Jules Kim, Johnny Nelson, Dorian Webb, Lorraine West
Events & AwardsJan 20, 2026
These Are the 5 Finalists for the David Yurman Gem Awards Grant

The grant is in its first year and was created to recognize an exceptional fine jewelry designer whose star is on the rise.

Emmanuel Raheb, National Jeweler columnist and CEO of Smart Age Solutions
ColumnistsJan 20, 2026
First-Party Data Is the Most Valuable Asset Jewelers Have in 2026

Data built on trust, not tracking, will be key to success going forward, as the era of “borrowed attention” ends, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Heath Yarges
MajorsJan 20, 2026
Borsheims Hires New Assistant Facilities Manager

Heath Yarges brings two decades of experience to the role.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Buccellati Opera Tulle ring
FinancialsJan 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Shine in Q3

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier had another successful holiday season, Richemont reported this week.

Weekly QuizJan 15, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Lagos SML High Jewelry Bee Brooch
TrendsJan 16, 2026
Diane Lane's Brooch Buzzes at the 2026 Golden Globes

Our Piece of the Week is Lagos’ “Bee” brooch that was seen on the red carpet for the first time on Sunday.

Gavel
CrimeJan 15, 2026
D.C. Rapper ‘Taliban Glizzy’ Sentenced to 18+ Years for Jewelry Store Robberies

Trevor Jonathan Wright led a crew in a string of armed robberies targeting South Asian-owned jewelry stores on the East Coast.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 Program
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Jewelers of Americas’ ‘20 Under 40’ Nominations Now Open

The program recognizes rising professionals in the jewelry industry.

The Venetian Expo Las Vegas
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2026
Registration for JCK Las Vegas 2026 Is Now Open

A new lifestyle section and a watch showcase have been added to this year’s event.

Avocados From Mexico Golden Double Dip Chip
TrendsJan 15, 2026
Don’t Double-Dip With This Golden Chip

Avocados From Mexico is celebrating those who love to double-dip in game day guacamole with a 14-karat yellow gold tortilla chip necklace.

41.82-carat rough blue diamond recovered from the Cullinan Mine
SourcingJan 15, 2026
Nearly 42-Carat Blue Diamond Discovered in South Africa

Petra Diamonds unearthed the 41.82-carat, Type IIb blue diamond at the Cullinan Mine.

Marie Lichtenberg Lasso Locket Bracelets Campaign
CollectionsJan 14, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg Lassos Leather for New Bracelets

The brand is trading its colorful fabric cords for Italian leather in its “Lasso” baby locket bracelets.

“My Next Question: The Podcast” graphic featuring Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff
TechnologyJan 14, 2026
“My Next Question” Enters Its Podcast Era

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America’s popular webinar series is evolving in 2026.

Saks New York City holiday lights
MajorsJan 14, 2026
Saks Files for Bankruptcy, Names New CEO

The department store chain owes millions to creditors like David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Kering, and LVMH.

Colman Domingo
CollectionsJan 14, 2026
Boucheron Names Colman Domingo as Brand Ambassador

The award-winning actor’s visionary approach and creativity echo the spirit of Boucheron, the brand said.

Burnell’s Fine Jewelry Kristi Regan, Nathan Regan, Sean Hamlin, Erin Carson
IndependentsJan 14, 2026
Kansas Jeweler Wins 2025 ‘Wag’ Award

Edge Retail Academy honored Burnell’s Fine Jewelry in Wichita, Kansas, with its annual award for business excellence.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, vice president of coaching strategy and development at the Edge Retail Academy
ColumnistsJan 13, 2026
2025 Was a ‘Price Up, Units Down’ Year, Here’s What That Signals for 2026

In a market defined by more selective consumers, Sherry Smith shares why execution will be independent jewelers’ key to growth this year.

Orr’s Jewelers David Gordon, Marcia Gordon, Aliza Gordon, Leslie Gordon
IndependentsJan 13, 2026
Orr’s Jewelers Opens New Location in Pittsburgh’s Strip District

The family-owned jeweler’s new space is in a former wholesale produce market.

Stock image of a gavel and books
CrimeJan 13, 2026
Alleged Getaway Driver Charged in Florida Jewelry Store Robbery

Ivel Sanchez Rivera, 52, has been arrested and charged in connection with the armed robbery of Tio Jewelers in Cape Coral, Florida.

Rio Grande diamonds
SourcingJan 13, 2026
Rio Grande To Offer Calibrated Diamond Melee

The supplier’s online program allows customers to search and buy calibrated natural and lab-grown diamond melee, including in fancy shapes.

Hana Kaneko rings
Events & AwardsJan 13, 2026
NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Announces Winter Event

The new show will take place Jan. 23-25, 2026.

MNQ FINAL - NJ web - 1872 x 1052 px.png
PodcastsJan 12, 2026
Introducing My Next Question, the Podcast

A monthly podcast series for jewelry professionals

Peter Yanzter, former executive director of AGS Labs
GradingJan 12, 2026
Peter Yantzer, Former Executive Director of AGS Labs, Dies at 77

Yantzer is remembered for the profound influence he had on diamond cut grading as well as his contagious smile and quick wit.

Macy’s New York Herald Square
MajorsJan 12, 2026
These 14 Macy’s Locations Will Close This Year

The store closures are part of the retailer’s “Bold New Chapter” turnaround plan.

Jewelers Mutual logo
MajorsJan 12, 2026
Jewelers Mutual Acquires AI-Powered Event Insurance Program

Through EventGuard, the company will offer event liability and cancellation insurance, including wedding coverage.

Kendra Scott CEO Chris Blakeslee
MajorsJan 09, 2026
Kendra Scott Taps Activewear Exec as CEO

Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy