Editors

The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women

EditorsOct 06, 2017

The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women

The creator of JWT’s “Female Tribes” study talks with our editor-in-chief about older women being left out of advertising and why “shrink-it-and-pink-it” doesn’t work.

20171006_Female-Tribes-FINAL.jpg
Rachel Pashley started her rolling research project, “Female Tribes,” about five years ago after getting the sense that women today weren’t being marketed to properly. Today, it includes more than 8,000 women in 19 countries.

For me, the most interesting part of De Beers’s 2017 Diamond Insight Report came on page 13.

And it came from a woman who has been heading a now five-year-long research project into, as she put it, “contemporary femininity.”

Rachel Pashley is the London-based group planning head at J. Walter Thompson (JWT), the same agency that used to head De Beers’s U.S. marketing and advertising efforts in the United States, back in the big-budget days of “A Diamond is Forever.”

She pioneered a rolling study at the firm called “Female Tribes,” which has connected with thousands worldwide to gain a better understanding of women of all ages today.

De Beers interviewed her for its insight report, noting that “Many of the findings [of Female Tribes] that relate to diamond jewelry are used in this report.” The insight report is informing the Q4 marketing campaign and collection for De Beers’s diamond brand Forevermark, which will launch next week and will be focused on women, particularly those who buy jewelry for themselves.

Earlier this week, Pashley took the time to talk with National Jeweler over the phone about why she launched the Tribes project, what she’s learned, and what today’s diamond advertising is doing wrong.

National Jeweler: When, why and how did you start the Female Tribes project?

Rachel Pashley: I started it probably around five years ago. As part of my job, I travel around the world to various clients, and one of the things I noticed was I’d walk into boardrooms in, say, Russia or China and Brazil and one of the sort of startling things was … it was nearly always an entirely female board room.

It was just very impressive to see that something was changing and it was something that I wanted to record. Because, for the most part, my impression was that as marketers, we weren’t really catching up with what was happening with the real world.

Every time I saw a creative brief, nearly always we were referring to women in terms of their parental responsibilities; I saw “busy working mum” written on creative briefs a lot.

And, yet, when I saw a creative brief that was for a male audience, he got to have hopes, dreams, aspiration, ambitions, and that was incredibly frustrating.

So I embarked on an in-depth research project to really look at how powerful women are in

the world and how their roles are evolving. And it sort of snowballed.

After a couple of years, I was lucky enough to secure funding to conduct our own proprietary research through the agency, which is what we call the Women’s Index. It now covers 19 countries and over 8,000 women ages 17 to 70. What we can tell is the hopes, fears, ambitions, dreams, aspirations, and views on love and sexuality and technology of all these women from around the world.

It gives a very rich picture of contemporary femininity.

NJ: In the sense you use it in the study, what does the word “tribe” mean exactly?

RP: The tribes are a way of characterizing what I call female capital, which is the value women bring to the world.

We’ve identified cohorts of women in over 22 different tribes and counting.

We define the tribe based on attitudinal data. Whereas traditional consumer segmentation looks at your age and demographics, we think that’s quite a blunt tool to describe women.

Through the research we’ve been doing, [we’ve discovered that] age is no predictor of life stage. You can’t look at a woman and think she’ll be single in her 20s, married in her 30s, having children, retired in her 50s and nicely settled down at home bouncing grandchildren on her knee.

The fact is a woman in her 50s now is as likely to be single and dating as a women in her 20s. We’re seeing women in their teens start businesses. We’re seeing women in their 70s and 80s take up athletics.

You look at the way life has changed for women--the power and status that they have and the things they are doing--and it’s nothing short of a quiet revolution. And I really wanted to tell that story.

NJ: I know you’ve studied women all over the world but, for the sake of our readership, can you share some Tribe data about women in the United States?

RP: The U.S. for me was an interesting paradox.

One on hand, we observed many more Alpha Female tribes. What we see is that women in the U.S. are much more openly alpha and more openly confident in their own success than, say, European Alphas.

We also observed many more of what we call the Traditionalist tribes. We have a tribe called the Nurturers, or the spouse-focused tribe, and those are what you could classify as traditional homemakers. Their sole focus is the home and bringing up children.

So it’s this interesting mix: One on hand, you had a much higher index of Alpha females but, equally, you had a much higher index of what I call the traditional tribes in America.

I think the other thing that stood out in America was there were significantly more of the Not-Mum tribe--women who didn’t see themselves as childless but happily child-free. What we observed with the not-mum tribe is because they are not having to consult with others in decision-making, they make much faster, self-determined decisions.

But, equally, there was more frustration with say, for example, financial service providers. [For example, they feel that] if I’m walking into a bank and I’m not accompanied by a husband and we’re not talking about settling down and having children, they’re just not interested in my business.

NJ: Interesting. What are the biggest mistakes you see companies making when marketing and advertising products that are mainly bought and/or consumed by women?

RP: I think one of the big mistakse is this sense of, “Well, to market to women I need to feminize my product in some way”--the kind of shrink-it-and-pink-it philosophy.

I’m often fond of quoting the athletic/running shoe example … Women are getting into distance running more in the U.S., they are finishing races--more of them than men in the U.S. And it’s only now in 2017 that we are designing a trainer specifically for women’s feet. Before, they’d just take a men’s trainer, shrink it and put it in pastel colors.

NJ: Because, clearly, we all want to wear everything pink.

RP: (Laughs.) I find it quite bizarre.

There’s a computer company that shall remain nameless that launched a laptop for women and they launched it with an in-built calorie counter. That’s just a face-palm moment of, what were you thinking? That’s a fundamental misunderstanding of women.

NJ: Can you provide any commentary or observations on jewelry advertising specifically?

RP: One of the things that I observe--and I think, to be fair, some of the people I’ve spoken to in the industry would observe as well--is that the model of advertising is still quite, in some cases, old-school.

I think particularly in diamond jewelry, there’s a lot of emphasis on love gifting; you’re almost creating a narrative of, “Be a good girl, get a diamond!” And you’re not giving women enough permission to buy for themselves, to reward themselves.

I think that’s reflected in the communication but also, in some cases, in the in-store experience.

Sometimes it can be quite intimidating going in as a women on your own to buy jewelry for yourself. You almost feel like as soon as you’re through the doors, again [like in the bank example above], there’s the expectation of where’s the fiancé, where’s the husband? And of course the big-ticket item is going to be bought by the wealthy male partner and gifted to the woman, as opposed to her buying it for herself.

My other observations would be you still see too many women who are in photoshoots wearing jewelry in a very passive pose. So, beautiful woman, draped over furniture, wearing the gorgeous bracelet--she looks incredibly passive, like she’s the object, not the subject, of her own life story, which is a frustration.

Equally, I also see this--that sometimes the models feel so young. We’re ignoring wealthy [baby] boomer women. Certainly in the U.K., boomers control over 70 percent of personal wealth, make over 40 percent of consumer purchases … but they’re being largely ignored, sort of airbrushed out of the picture.

NJ: Can you give me an example of a company or brand you think does a great job of speaking women today?

RP: I think what Under Armour is doing is really interesting.

Something we saw in our research was that women would rather be defined as “strong” than “sweet.”

I love the work that Under Armour does in celebrating women’s strength, and unapologetic strength. What we see is that women are embracing their physicality and physical prowess.

And we also observed in our research that high-achieving women often have a secret sporting side that makes them the women they are. So they might use sport and athleticism in a slightly different way … not necessarily to win the gold medal but to feel strong and powerful, fuel that inner strength.

NJ: Anyone else?

RP: I like some of the work that Calvin Klein has been doing in featuring [73-year-old model and actress] Lauren Hutton--so featuring older, amazingly beautiful women who are more than 25, and I think that’s beautiful, and actually not airbrushing wrinkles but celebrating mature, beautiful, iconic women who have substance to them as well.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Hearts On Fire What’s Your Signature Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 08, 2026
Hearts On Fire Celebrates 30 Years By Asking a Question

The “What’s Your Signature?” campaign invites women to think about how they see themselves.

41.82-carat Type IIb blue diamond recovered from Cullinan in January 2026
SourcingApr 08, 2026
Sale of 42-Carat Blue Diamond Gives Petra a Boost in Q3

The big diamond’s sale added to the company’s revenue though the market remains “challenging” overall, particularly for smaller goods.

American Gem Society Confluence Logo
Events & AwardsApr 08, 2026
AGS Confluence Returns with AI, Sustainability Sessions

Rob Bates of The Jewelry Wire will also moderate a panel on the state of the jewelry industry during the virtual event.

GIA iD100®
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Dennis Buzz Busby and Randy Welch
Events & AwardsApr 08, 2026
TJS to Honor 2 Longtime Former Stuller Employees

The Jewelry Symposium will honor two industry veterans with lifetime achievement awards at its upcoming May event.

Weekly QuizApr 02, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Isabel Delgado A necklace
TrendsApr 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: April’s Brilliant Birthstone

With their durability, brilliance, and beauty, diamonds are the perfect stone for everyday birthstone jewelry.

QVC Group logo
MajorsApr 07, 2026
QVC Group’s Latest Filing Calls Its Future Into Question

The retailer failed to file its annual report on time and said it may issue a going concern warning.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsApr 07, 2026
Peter Smith: A Tip to the Post Office on Workplace Culture

Smith recounts a recent trip to the post office that included an uncomfortable, embarrassing, and public exchange between two employees.

Retiring GIA CFO David Tearle and new GIA CFO John Cowley
GradingApr 07, 2026
GIA CFO David Tearle to Retire in June

John Cowley, who has more than 30 years of experience, is succeeding Tearle as the lab’s chief financial officer.

Gemology Geek Ignite collection tourmaline ring
CollectionsApr 07, 2026
Nerd Out Over Gemology Geek’s First Jewelry Collection

Founder Erica Silverglide has designed 35 colorful pieces set with fluorescing gemstones for the brand's first finished jewelry offering.

Ukrainian Jewelry | Contemporary Jewelry and Art Jewelry from Ukraine
CollectionsApr 07, 2026
Ukrainian Jewelers Highlighted In New Book

“Ukrainian Jewelry | Contemporary Jewelry and Art Jewelry from Ukraine” features 33 contemporary Ukrainian designers and studios.

Fope Golden Now Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 06, 2026
Fope’s New Jewelry Debuts Are Golden

“The Golden Now” campaign celebrates the here and now with the brand’s signature styles and a selection of its new pieces.

Former Signet executive Kecia Caffie
MajorsApr 06, 2026
Kecia Caffie, Corinne Bentzen No Longer With Signet Jewelers

Signet confirmed that Caffie, president of Zales and Banter, and Bentzen, who headed Blue Nile, have left the company.

Author Tanzy Ward and her book Precious Black Jewels The Bijou Material Culture of Black Victorians & Edwardians
CollectionsApr 06, 2026
Historian Tanzy Ward Pens Book on Black Victorians’ Jewelry

The antique jewelry dealer talks about the importance of including Black Americans in jewelry history and preserving their stories.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingApr 06, 2026
Gemfields Reports $51M Loss in 2025

Both its mines faced challenges last year, from operational issues to disruptions in the market.

Screenshot of Taylor Swift's "Elizabeth Taylor" music video
CollectionsApr 03, 2026
Taylor Swift’s ‘Elizabeth Taylor’ Video Puts Jewelry Front and Center

Iconic pieces, like the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara, appear in the superstar’s new music video for her song inspired by the actress.

Neiman Marcus store in Fort Worth, Texas
MajorsApr 03, 2026
Saks Global Says It Will Emerge From Bankruptcy This Summer

The luxury retailer, which went Chapter 11 in January, announced Thursday that it has secured $500 million in exit financing.

NouvelleBox logo
Events & AwardsApr 03, 2026
JCK Luxury, NouvelleBox Partner on New Designer Ballroom

The NouvelleBox ballroom will feature independent jewelry designers, including Lene Vibe, Wyld Box Jewelry, and Kiaia Limited.

Buddha Mama Moon Locket
CollectionsApr 03, 2026
Buddha Mama Brings Its ‘Moon’ Locket To Dallas

The one-of-a-kind locket, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal three hidden images to keep close to your heart.

Pandora distribution facility Canada
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Pandora Opens New Canadian Distribution Center Amid Tariff Concerns

The new facility was also designed to better serve its growing customer base in Canada.

Michelle Yeoh Mikimoto
TrendsApr 02, 2026
Michelle Yeoh Fronts New Mikimoto Campaign

The campaign is a tribute to the year 1893, when Kokichi Mikimoto created the world’s first cultured pearl.

GIA President and CEO Pritesh Patel at GIA Taiwan campus
GradingApr 02, 2026
GIA Debuts New Campus in Taiwan

It is the only GIA school to offer the GIA Graduate Gemologist program in Chinese.

DCA Second Spark Workforce Initiative Graphic
MajorsApr 02, 2026
DCA Launches ‘Second Spark’ Workforce Initiative

The initiative connects veterans and parents returning to the workforce with careers in jewelry retail.

Michael Angelo
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Hoover & Strong Names New National Sales Representative

The wholesale manufacturer and precious metals refiner has appointed Michael Angelo as its new national sales representative.

Pandora and Foundrae medallion jewelry
MajorsApr 01, 2026
Foundrae Sues Pandora for Allegedly Copying Its Medallion Designs

Foundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.

John Jacob Astor IV's Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co., Battin & Co. pencil case
AuctionsApr 01, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Heads to Auction

A Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece owned by the American businessman who died on the Titanic will be offered at Freeman's Chicago.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy