Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
The 12 Fresh Faces in Couture’s Design AtelierDiscover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.
EditorsJun 04, 2021
Out & About: The Stories Behind These ‘Beautiful Creatures’
Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff is eager to get out. Her first stop: the new jewelry exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History.
María Félix’s famous crocodile necklace by Cartier is crafted in gold with emeralds, yellow diamonds, and rubies for the eyes. It is one of the more than 100 jewels on display as part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. (Credit: Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier)
Last Friday, I took a subway ride up to the American Museum of Natural History, where Marion Fasel has been spending most of her time.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
This shot by the author shows, from left to right at top, the Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, the Boivin starfish, and a starfish by Hemmerle and, at bottom, the Jean Schlumberger jellyfish, a seahorse by Guy Bedarida for Marina B, and an Elsa Peretti starfish.
The gold, ruby, diamond and pearl “Étoile de Mer” brooch by Salvador Dalí comes with two gem-set butterflies, which can be attached to the echinoderm’s arms. (Photo credit: Jake Armour, Armour Photography)
This Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell Brooch features a natural scallop shell set with sapphires and diamonds in gold, and is one of two in the exhibition. Duke Fulco di Verdura made the brooches using shells he purchased in the museum gift shop in 1940. (Courtesy of Stephen Webster)
The piece to see in this case is the “Étoile de Mer” ruby, diamond and pearl brooch by Salvador Dalí, purchased by his friend and jewelry client Rebekah Harkness.
A year ago, very few people would have recognized that name but then quarantine hit, and a singer with a name everybody knows, Taylor Swift, wrote a song about Harkness and her Rhode Island mansion, which the singer now owns.
According to Swift, Harkness blew through her money “on the boys and the ballet, and losing on card game bets with Dalí.”
The Standard Oil heiress also reportedly spent a significant amount of money buying the Spanish artist’s rare jewels, including the “Étoile de Mer” brooch, and apparently had fun wearing them.
Images of Harkness wearing the brooch, which has fully flexible arms and comes with two butterflies that can be attached to its arms (Dalí was a surrealist, remember), show it draped over her shoulder.
María Félix’s Flair
I don’t know much about María Félix, but I do know this: She was not a woman who went for understated jewelry.
Several jewels that once belonged to the Mexican singer and actress, who starred in nearly 50 films between 1943 and 1970, are featured in “Beautiful Creatures.”
There is an incredible, 22-inch long, fully flexible snake covered in 2,473 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds that, Marion noted, has an edgy look for Cartier.
There are a pair of gold and enamel snake ear clips, also by Cartier, so large I thought they were a matching set of bangles at first glance.
María Félix’s 22-inch long diamond-set snake necklace, as shot by the author. The red, green and black enamel on the snake’s underbelly is an homage to the Mexican flag.
And then there is her famous yellow diamond and emerald crocodile necklace (pictured at top of article).
As the story goes, in 1975, Félix brought two live baby crocs into the Cartier store on Rue de la Paix in Paris to serve as “inspiration” for the designers and, according to Marion’s book, to let them know she was serious about wanting a crocodile jewel.
The reptiles are covered in 1,023 fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 60.02 carats and 1,060 emeralds totaling 66.86 carats.
The legs can be removed as well in case you’re looking for a little something more demure, which Félix definitely was not.
The Case for Bugs
One of the Air cases in the exhibition is filled with insects, and I love it.
Insect accessories were extremely popular in the late 19th century, due in part to the opening of museums like the American Museum of Natural History, which was founded in 1869, Marion explained.
Boucheron made this stag beetle brooch in 1895 using diamonds, rubies and white and yellow gold. It has a removable pin on the back that allows it to be worn as a pendant or hair ornament as well. (Credit: © Boucheron)
French goldsmith Lucien Gaillard, who crafted Art Nouveau-style jewelry, made this grasshopper ring around 1900. It is gold and enamel with cabochon emerald eyes. (Credit: Private collection, courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute)
These museums opened people’s eyes to the diversity of the natural world. They wanted to express their newfound interest and appreciation through jewelry, and the jewelers of that time obliged.
There is a fly and a bee by Tiffany & Co., a stag beetle and a cicada from Boucheron, a Van Cleef & Arpels wasp, a Lucien Gaillard grasshopper, and a pin by Tiffany that one of the museum’s entomologist identified as a leaf weevil.
Our Favorites
Most of the time, when you ask a creator to pick a favorite among their works, they tell you they couldn’t possibly, that it would be like selecting a favorite child.
Marion, however, doesn’t have this hang-up with the exhibition she’s spent the last three years curating.
She willingly shared that her favorite section is the display of butterfly jewels artfully displayed along the back wall of the exhibition.
The collection of butterfly jewels in “Beautiful Creatures” highlights the individual artistry designers bring to the pieces they create, Marion said, and it showcases how styles, interpretations and use of materials change over time.
Marion Fasel’s favorite part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition is the backwall of butterflies, part of the display of Creatures of Air. (Credit: D. Finnin/©AMNH)
Six of Suzanne Belperron’s butterfly brooches are on display in the exhibition, all made in the ‘30s and ‘40s. This one features multicolored sapphires, tourmalines, beryls, amethysts, gold and enamel. (Credit: Photo by David Behl, © Belperron)
This shot by the author shows a few Cartier panthers on the prowl in one of the cases dedicated to Land Creatures. The author’s favorite feline of the group, the big cat lounging on a lapis lazuli branch, is at left.
As a cat lover and owner, my instinct should be to select a piece from the final case we perused during my tour, a collection of land mammals that includes a few Cartier panthers as well as a Van Cleef & Arpels lion brooch that belonged to Brooke Astor and a lion shoulder brooch by Boivin.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
More on Editors
The Latest
SourcingJun 05, 2025
A Rare Suite of Rubies Has Arrived in Las VegasThe “Royal Ruby” Collection is a quintet of untreated rubies curated by collector Jack Abraham.
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las VegasThe entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.
Brought to you by
The True Power Behind the Counter: Why Sales Associates Are the Heart of the Jewelry BusinessWhen investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.
MajorsJun 05, 2025
Platinum Guild International Updates Leadership TeamTwo existing executives have been given new roles.
Weekly QuizJun 05, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Zillion Announces 'Women in STEM' Scholarship RecipientMeredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.
Lab-GrownJun 04, 2025
GIA Reverting to More General Terminology for Lab-Grown DiamondsIt will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”
Brought to you by
Clienteling Isn’t a Buzzword. It’s an Essential Business Model.More shoppers are walking out without buying. Here’s how smart jewelers can bring them back—and the tool they need to do it right.
Events & AwardsJun 04, 2025
As JCK Talks Returns, Don’t Miss These 12 SessionsFrom design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.
CrimeJun 04, 2025
10 Safety Tips for the Las Vegas Shows The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.
MajorsJun 04, 2025
Amy Curran Promoted at Hill & Co.Her new role is director of strategic initiatives.
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into GoldThe designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.
FinancialsJun 03, 2025
Signet Jewelers Sees Turnaround in Q1 With Sales Ticking Up 2%On an earnings call, CEO J.K. Symancyk discussed what’s working for the company and how it’s preparing for the potential impact of tariffs.
SurveysJun 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Improves in May The index partially rebounded after months of decline, due in part to the U.S.-China deal to temporarily reduce import tariffs.
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
Dakota Johnson Is Roberto Coin’s New Brand AmbassadorThe actress stars in the latest campaign set in Venice, Italy, and is set to participate in other creative initiatives for the jeweler.
GradingJun 03, 2025
Mason-Kay Jade Adds ‘Fei Cui’ to Jade ReportsThe company has joined other labs, including GIA and Lotus Gemology, in adopting the Chinese term for "jadeite jade."
SourcingJun 02, 2025
Gemfields’ June Auction to Include 36-Carat RubyThe large stone will be offered at its June sale along with a selection of secondary-type rubies from a new area of the Montepuez mine.
GradingJun 02, 2025
GSI Opens New Lab in Thailand Located in Bangkok, the laboratory is Gemological Science International’s 14th location worldwide.
TrendsJun 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Three Gems for June Those born in June have a myriad of options for their birthstone jewelry.
SourcingJun 02, 2025
David Allouche Joins Grandview Klein DiamondsThe diamond industry veteran has been named its senior sales executive.
FinancialsMay 30, 2025
Movado’s Q1 Sales Slip Amid ‘Challenging’ Retail Environment The company plans to raise the prices of select watches to offset the impact of tariffs.
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Tariffs & Designers: Navigating Pricing in an Unstable EnvironmentBetween tariffs and the sky-high cost of gold, designers enter this year’s Las Vegas shows with a lot of questions and few answers.
CollectionsMay 30, 2025
Piece of the Week: Renato Cipullo’s ‘Hematite Blaze’ NecklaceDesigned by founder Renato and his daughter Serena Cipullo, it showcases a flame motif representing unity and the power of gathering.
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Trade Court Declares Trump’s Tariffs InvalidHowever, the tariffs remain in effect in the short term, as an appeals court has stayed the U.S. Court of International Trade’s decision.
CollectionsMay 29, 2025
Britney Spears Files Trademark for New Jewelry LineThe pop icon is one step closer to launching her “B Tiny” jewelry collection, a collection she first began posting about last fall.
Supplier BulletinMay 29, 2025
Inoveo Platinum Grain, Exclusively Distributed by StullerSponsored by Stuller
SourcingMay 29, 2025
Grizzly Auctions 6,620-Carat EmeraldIt was featured in the miner’s latest sale, which brought in $24.8 million.
