CollectionsFeb 02, 2023
Lowe’s Is Now Selling JewelryThe home improvement store’s website features an “Empowerment Tools” demi-fine jewelry collection.
EditorsJun 04, 2021
Out & About: The Stories Behind These ‘Beautiful Creatures’
Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff is eager to get out. Her first stop: the new jewelry exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History.
María Félix’s famous crocodile necklace by Cartier is crafted in gold with emeralds, yellow diamonds, and rubies for the eyes. It is one of the more than 100 jewels on display as part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. (Credit: Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier)
Last Friday, I took a subway ride up to the American Museum of Natural History, where Marion Fasel has been spending most of her time.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
This shot by the author shows, from left to right at top, the Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, the Boivin starfish, and a starfish by Hemmerle and, at bottom, the Jean Schlumberger jellyfish, a seahorse by Guy Bedarida for Marina B, and an Elsa Peretti starfish.
The gold, ruby, diamond and pearl “Étoile de Mer” brooch by Salvador Dalí comes with two gem-set butterflies, which can be attached to the echinoderm’s arms. (Photo credit: Jake Armour, Armour Photography)
This Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell Brooch features a natural scallop shell set with sapphires and diamonds in gold, and is one of two in the exhibition. Duke Fulco di Verdura made the brooches using shells he purchased in the museum gift shop in 1940. (Courtesy of Stephen Webster)
The piece to see in this case is the “Étoile de Mer” ruby, diamond and pearl brooch by Salvador Dalí, purchased by his friend and jewelry client Rebekah Harkness.
A year ago, very few people would have recognized that name but then quarantine hit, and a singer with a name everybody knows, Taylor Swift, wrote a song about Harkness and her Rhode Island mansion, which the singer now owns.
According to Swift, Harkness blew through her money “on the boys and the ballet, and losing on card game bets with Dalí.”
The Standard Oil heiress also reportedly spent a significant amount of money buying the Spanish artist’s rare jewels, including the “Étoile de Mer” brooch, and apparently had fun wearing them.
Images of Harkness wearing the brooch, which has fully flexible arms and comes with two butterflies that can be attached to its arms (Dalí was a surrealist, remember), show it draped over her shoulder.
María Félix’s Flair
I don’t know much about María Félix, but I do know this: She was not a woman who went for understated jewelry.
Several jewels that once belonged to the Mexican singer and actress, who starred in nearly 50 films between 1943 and 1970, are featured in “Beautiful Creatures.”
There is an incredible, 22-inch long, fully flexible snake covered in 2,473 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds that, Marion noted, has an edgy look for Cartier.
There are a pair of gold and enamel snake ear clips, also by Cartier, so large I thought they were a matching set of bangles at first glance.
María Félix’s 22-inch long diamond-set snake necklace, as shot by the author. The red, green and black enamel on the snake’s underbelly is an homage to the Mexican flag.
And then there is her famous yellow diamond and emerald crocodile necklace (pictured at top of article).
As the story goes, in 1975, Félix brought two live baby crocs into the Cartier store on Rue de la Paix in Paris to serve as “inspiration” for the designers and, according to Marion’s book, to let them know she was serious about wanting a crocodile jewel.
The reptiles are covered in 1,023 fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 60.02 carats and 1,060 emeralds totaling 66.86 carats.
The legs can be removed as well in case you’re looking for a little something more demure, which Félix definitely was not.
The Case for Bugs
One of the Air cases in the exhibition is filled with insects, and I love it.
Insect accessories were extremely popular in the late 19th century, due in part to the opening of museums like the American Museum of Natural History, which was founded in 1869, Marion explained.
Boucheron made this stag beetle brooch in 1895 using diamonds, rubies and white and yellow gold. It has a removable pin on the back that allows it to be worn as a pendant or hair ornament as well. (Credit: © Boucheron)
French goldsmith Lucien Gaillard, who crafted Art Nouveau-style jewelry, made this grasshopper ring around 1900. It is gold and enamel with cabochon emerald eyes. (Credit: Private collection, courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute)
These museums opened people’s eyes to the diversity of the natural world. They wanted to express their newfound interest and appreciation through jewelry, and the jewelers of that time obliged.
There is a fly and a bee by Tiffany & Co., a stag beetle and a cicada from Boucheron, a Van Cleef & Arpels wasp, a Lucien Gaillard grasshopper, and a pin by Tiffany that one of the museum’s entomologist identified as a leaf weevil.
Our Favorites
Most of the time, when you ask a creator to pick a favorite among their works, they tell you they couldn’t possibly, that it would be like selecting a favorite child.
Marion, however, doesn’t have this hang-up with the exhibition she’s spent the last three years curating.
She willingly shared that her favorite section is the display of butterfly jewels artfully displayed along the back wall of the exhibition.
The collection of butterfly jewels in “Beautiful Creatures” highlights the individual artistry designers bring to the pieces they create, Marion said, and it showcases how styles, interpretations and use of materials change over time.
Marion Fasel’s favorite part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition is the backwall of butterflies, part of the display of Creatures of Air. (Credit: D. Finnin/©AMNH)
Six of Suzanne Belperron’s butterfly brooches are on display in the exhibition, all made in the ‘30s and ‘40s. This one features multicolored sapphires, tourmalines, beryls, amethysts, gold and enamel. (Credit: Photo by David Behl, © Belperron)
This shot by the author shows a few Cartier panthers on the prowl in one of the cases dedicated to Land Creatures. The author’s favorite feline of the group, the big cat lounging on a lapis lazuli branch, is at left.
As a cat lover and owner, my instinct should be to select a piece from the final case we perused during my tour, a collection of land mammals that includes a few Cartier panthers as well as a Van Cleef & Arpels lion brooch that belonged to Brooke Astor and a lion shoulder brooch by Boivin.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Editors
The Latest
Events & AwardsFeb 02, 2023
Registration is Now Open for JIS Spring 2023The show will feature a new pavilion of 30 jewelry designers and manufacturers from Surat, India.
Policies & IssuesFeb 02, 2023
Tiny Radioactive Capsule Lost in Australian Outback FoundA government official said search crews “found the needle in the haystack” when they located the capsule belonging to Rio Tinto along an 870-mile stretch of road.
Brought to you by
Bringing Over 130 Years of Diamond Expertise to Modern GradingDe Beers Institute of Diamonds provides the very best in diamond verification, education and diamond services.
TrendsFeb 02, 2023
Amanda’s Style File: Purple and Playful Amanda Gizzi welcomes February with a selection of amethyst jewelry, a birthstone that “deserves its own time to shine.”
Weekly QuizFeb 02, 2023
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Events & AwardsFeb 01, 2023
New Miami Jewelry Center Slated to Open in Q1The Time Century Jewelry Center is located in downtown Miami’s jewelry district.
SurveysFeb 01, 2023
Consumer Confidence Falls in JanuaryWariness about the year ahead offset a more positive view of the current economic situation.
Brought to you by
De Beers Institute of Diamonds Expands to Offer Education De Beers is sharing over 130 years of experience and expertise through the De Beers Institute of Diamonds with a selection of courses.
MajorsFeb 01, 2023
Six New Retailers Appointed to IJO’s Board of DirectorsThe IJO also welcomed one new vendor member to its 13-member board, Brecken Farnsworth of Parlé Jewelry Designs.
ColumnistsJan 31, 2023
Squirrel Spotting: How About a Word for the New Year?It begins with a “t” and ends with a “c” and is imbued with warmth and positivity, Peter Smith writes.
Policies & IssuesJan 31, 2023
Rio Tinto Issues Apology After Radioactive Capsule Goes Missing The tiny capsule, which is believed to have fallen out of a truck, was lost somewhere along an 870-mile stretch of desert road.
MajorsJan 31, 2023
Indian Jewelry Brand Tanishq Opens First U.S. Store, More on the WayThe jeweler’s expansion plans include 20 to 30 more stores in North America and the Middle East over the next two to three years.
Events & AwardsJan 31, 2023
Gucci Is Getting a Gem AwardThe Italian luxury brand will receive the first Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence.
MajorsJan 31, 2023
Martin Flyer Names New VP of Business DevelopmentIndustry veteran Kevin Lane has stepped into the role.
MajorsJan 30, 2023
Researchers Uncover Bejeweled ‘Golden Boy’ MummyThe ancient Egyptian teenager was buried 2,300 years ago with 49 amulets to guide him through the afterlife.
SurveysJan 30, 2023
Consumers Embracing Non-Traditional Ways to Mark Valentine’s Day The NRF’s annual survey shows that consumer attitudes about how, or even whether, to celebrate Feb. 14 continue to evolve.
Events & AwardsJan 30, 2023
JA Is Searching for the Next Retail ’20 Under 40’ Nominations are open now through March 24.
MajorsJan 30, 2023
10 Jewelry News Stories You Might Have MissedA column detailing how independent jewelers did last year and the top watch brands of 2022 were among the most-read stories last week.
FinancialsJan 27, 2023
Tiffany & Co. Shines for LVMH in 2022Acquired in 2021, the brand’s high jewelry sales have doubled and its new “Lock” collection was an instant hit.
MajorsJan 27, 2023
Diamond Council of America Appoints Treasurer, Board MemberExecutives from Fred Meyer Jewelers and Riddles Jewelers have filled the roles.
CollectionsJan 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Heavenly Vices’ Lock NecklaceThe Victorian-inspired design is a functional lock and key.
Supplier BulletinJan 26, 2023
JA New York Spring Brings the Industry TogetherFor over 100 years, JA New York has played an integral role in facilitating the evolution of our industry, while also honoring past traditions.
TrendsJan 26, 2023
At Vicenzaoro, Paola De Luca Gazes Into Jewelry’s FutureThe trend forecaster and her guests explored unconventional jewelry designs, NFTs, AI art, and more during her Trendvision presentation.
CollectionsJan 26, 2023
NDC and Lorraine Schwartz Announce New ‘EDDI’ ClassThe Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative provides diamond credit and mentorship to young brands helmed by BIPOC designers.
IndependentsJan 26, 2023
Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry Set to Open 10th StoreIt will be located in San Antonio’s Alamo Quarry Market and will be Lee Michaels’ third location in the city.
Policies & IssuesJan 26, 2023
Diamonds Do Good Names 10 to Board of DirectorsStephanie Gottlieb, Jewelers Mutual’s Mike Alexander, and Craig Rottenberg of Long’s Jewelers are among the new board members.
WatchesJan 25, 2023
These Were 2022’s Top-Selling Watch Brands, Chrono24 SaysRolex remained No. 1 while a brand known for its pilot watches slipped into the No. 5 spot.
