CrimeDec 11, 2024
Former Tiffany & Co. Factory Supervisor Sentenced for Stealing Precious Metals A federal judge gave Benjamin Preacher 59 days in jail, plus 10 months of home confinement and two years of supervised release.
EditorsJun 04, 2021
Out & About: The Stories Behind These ‘Beautiful Creatures’
Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff is eager to get out. Her first stop: the new jewelry exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History.
María Félix’s famous crocodile necklace by Cartier is crafted in gold with emeralds, yellow diamonds, and rubies for the eyes. It is one of the more than 100 jewels on display as part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. (Credit: Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier)
Last Friday, I took a subway ride up to the American Museum of Natural History, where Marion Fasel has been spending most of her time.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
The jewelry author and historian curated an exhibition of animal jewelry for the museum called “Beautiful Creatures.”
As writers do, she penned an accompanying book of the same name, which I recommend to jewelry lovers, particularly jewelry lovers who are also animal lovers.
“Beautiful Creatures” is housed in a rotating exhibition space adjacent to the museum’s just-renovated gem halls, which will reopen to the public next weekend after several years of construction and COVID-related delays.
Marion, who’s basically a walking encyclopedia of jewelry history, gave me a personal tour of the exhibition, and it was wonderful.
It was wonderful to get dressed, to leave my apartment for hours at a time, to take the subway somewhere with purpose, to catch up with one of my favorite colleagues, and to talk jewelry (and other things) in person again.
For me, it’s the people who make this industry enjoyable and I’ve missed you.
Over the next couple of weeks, I’m planning to bring you more stories of being “Out & About,” and I look forward to reuniting with some of you at the Vegas shows later this summer.
In the meantime, enjoy this verbal and visual tour of “Beautiful Creatures.”
A Splashy Opening
The exhibition is divided into categories based on where the featured creatures mostly dwell: Creatures of Air, Creatures of Land and Creatures of Water.
There are no barnyard animals, no household pets and no jewels that include animal forms as an afterthought, Marion told me at the start of my tour. All the pieces depict creatures in their entirety.
In curating the collection, Marion found inspiration within the walls of the museum—the Hall of Biodiversity was particularly inspiring, she said—and narrowed her search for jewels to the last 150 years, a nod to the museum’s recent milestone.
The American Museum of Natural History celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2019.
“Beautiful Creatures” opens with a case containing Creatures of Water, and Marion was at the ready to share the history behind each piece.
There’s a moonstone jellyfish brooch Jean Schlumberger made for dear friend and client Bunny Mellon after she was stung by one, a modern opal Man O’ War brooch crafted by Paula Crevoshay, two of Fulco di Verdura’s Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, and one of the four Boivin amethyst and ruby starfish brooches known to exist.
This shot by the author shows, from left to right at top, the Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell brooches, the Boivin starfish, and a starfish by Hemmerle and, at bottom, the Jean Schlumberger jellyfish, a seahorse by Guy Bedarida for Marina B, and an Elsa Peretti starfish.
The gold, ruby, diamond and pearl “Étoile de Mer” brooch by Salvador Dalí comes with two gem-set butterflies, which can be attached to the echinoderm’s arms. (Photo credit: Jake Armour, Armour Photography)
This Verdura Lion’s Paw Shell Brooch features a natural scallop shell set with sapphires and diamonds in gold, and is one of two in the exhibition. Duke Fulco di Verdura made the brooches using shells he purchased in the museum gift shop in 1940. (Courtesy of Stephen Webster)
The piece to see in this case is the “Étoile de Mer” ruby, diamond and pearl brooch by Salvador Dalí, purchased by his friend and jewelry client Rebekah Harkness.
A year ago, very few people would have recognized that name but then quarantine hit, and a singer with a name everybody knows, Taylor Swift, wrote a song about Harkness and her Rhode Island mansion, which the singer now owns.
According to Swift, Harkness blew through her money “on the boys and the ballet, and losing on card game bets with Dalí.”
The Standard Oil heiress also reportedly spent a significant amount of money buying the Spanish artist’s rare jewels, including the “Étoile de Mer” brooch, and apparently had fun wearing them.
Images of Harkness wearing the brooch, which has fully flexible arms and comes with two butterflies that can be attached to its arms (Dalí was a surrealist, remember), show it draped over her shoulder.
María Félix’s Flair
I don’t know much about María Félix, but I do know this: She was not a woman who went for understated jewelry.
Several jewels that once belonged to the Mexican singer and actress, who starred in nearly 50 films between 1943 and 1970, are featured in “Beautiful Creatures.”
There is an incredible, 22-inch long, fully flexible snake covered in 2,473 brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds that, Marion noted, has an edgy look for Cartier.
There are a pair of gold and enamel snake ear clips, also by Cartier, so large I thought they were a matching set of bangles at first glance.
María Félix’s 22-inch long diamond-set snake necklace, as shot by the author. The red, green and black enamel on the snake’s underbelly is an homage to the Mexican flag.
And then there is her famous yellow diamond and emerald crocodile necklace (pictured at top of article).
As the story goes, in 1975, Félix brought two live baby crocs into the Cartier store on Rue de la Paix in Paris to serve as “inspiration” for the designers and, according to Marion’s book, to let them know she was serious about wanting a crocodile jewel.
The reptiles are covered in 1,023 fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 60.02 carats and 1,060 emeralds totaling 66.86 carats.
The legs can be removed as well in case you’re looking for a little something more demure, which Félix definitely was not.
The Case for Bugs
One of the Air cases in the exhibition is filled with insects, and I love it.
Insect accessories were extremely popular in the late 19th century, due in part to the opening of museums like the American Museum of Natural History, which was founded in 1869, Marion explained.
Boucheron made this stag beetle brooch in 1895 using diamonds, rubies and white and yellow gold. It has a removable pin on the back that allows it to be worn as a pendant or hair ornament as well. (Credit: © Boucheron)
French goldsmith Lucien Gaillard, who crafted Art Nouveau-style jewelry, made this grasshopper ring around 1900. It is gold and enamel with cabochon emerald eyes. (Credit: Private collection, courtesy of Albion Art Jewellery Institute)
These museums opened people’s eyes to the diversity of the natural world. They wanted to express their newfound interest and appreciation through jewelry, and the jewelers of that time obliged.
There is a fly and a bee by Tiffany & Co., a stag beetle and a cicada from Boucheron, a Van Cleef & Arpels wasp, a Lucien Gaillard grasshopper, and a pin by Tiffany that one of the museum’s entomologist identified as a leaf weevil.
Our Favorites
Most of the time, when you ask a creator to pick a favorite among their works, they tell you they couldn’t possibly, that it would be like selecting a favorite child.
Marion, however, doesn’t have this hang-up with the exhibition she’s spent the last three years curating.
She willingly shared that her favorite section is the display of butterfly jewels artfully displayed along the back wall of the exhibition.
The collection of butterfly jewels in “Beautiful Creatures” highlights the individual artistry designers bring to the pieces they create, Marion said, and it showcases how styles, interpretations and use of materials change over time.
Marion Fasel’s favorite part of the “Beautiful Creatures” exhibition is the backwall of butterflies, part of the display of Creatures of Air. (Credit: D. Finnin/©AMNH)
Six of Suzanne Belperron’s butterfly brooches are on display in the exhibition, all made in the ‘30s and ‘40s. This one features multicolored sapphires, tourmalines, beryls, amethysts, gold and enamel. (Credit: Photo by David Behl, © Belperron)
This shot by the author shows a few Cartier panthers on the prowl in one of the cases dedicated to Land Creatures. The author’s favorite feline of the group, the big cat lounging on a lapis lazuli branch, is at left.
As a cat lover and owner, my instinct should be to select a piece from the final case we perused during my tour, a collection of land mammals that includes a few Cartier panthers as well as a Van Cleef & Arpels lion brooch that belonged to Brooke Astor and a lion shoulder brooch by Boivin.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
But I have to say my top jewel overall is the grasshopper ring by Lucien Gaillard, a gold, enamel and cabochon emerald piece from 1900 just because it’s so unexpected.
Please don’t tell my cat.
“Beautiful Creatures” is located within the new Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History. It is on display through Sept. 19 in the Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, the museum’s first space for rotating exhibitions within one of its permanent halls.
The just-renovated gem halls officially reopen to the public on Saturday, June 12.
Marion Fasel’s book written to accompany the exhibition, “Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animals Kingdom” is available now.
More on Editors
The Latest
GradingDec 11, 2024
IGI Set to Go Public Next WeekIn a CNBC interview, CEO Tehmasp Printer discussed the IPO in India and what declining lab-grown diamond prices mean for the company.
AuctionsDec 11, 2024
Sotheby’s Important Watches Sale Fetches $16.6MThe offering included vintage Rolexes, timepieces worn in “Titanic,” Steve McQueen's watch, and a special Citizen pocket watch.
Brought to you by
Advocacy and Excellence: How Jewelers of America Is Committed to Elevating Our Industry For over a century, Jewelers of America has been the voice of the industry and valuable resource to jewelers across the country.
CollectionsDec 11, 2024
Stephanie Gottlieb Brings Natural Diamonds to StudsThe 13-piece “Stephanie Gottlieb x Studs” collection is the piercing studio’s first fine jewelry offering to feature the gemstone.
Weekly QuizDec 05, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsDec 10, 2024
Sauer Opens First U.S. StoreThe Brazilian jewelry brand made a home on New York City’s Madison Avenue with exclusive pieces only available at the location.
SurveysDec 10, 2024
Jewelry Among Top Sellers on Cyber Monday, Says AdobeAn Adobe Analytics report explored the rise in mobile shopping, the popularity of Buy Now Pay Later options, and peak shopping hours.
Brought to you by
Protecting Your Sparkle: Why Screening Has Become Essential While no reputable jeweler would knowingly sell lab-grown stones as natural, it's a growing possibility.
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2024
AGTA Launches Scholarship for University of Arizona Geosciences StudentsThe inaugural Dick Greenwood Memorial Scholarship in Gems Science will cover the fall 2025 and spring 2026 semesters.
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2024
JA New York To Debut 2 New Pavilions at Spring 2025 ShowA Piazza Italia pavilion will feature Italian designers and manufacturers while “MJSA Showcase” brings over a piece of the MJSA Expo.
CollectionsDec 09, 2024
Ray Griffiths’ First Coffee Table Book Spans 5 Decades of Design“Ray Griffiths: The Works” tells the story of the master jeweler’s career, which started with an apprenticeship in Australia at age 15.
MajorsDec 09, 2024
Thomas Davis, Grant Mobley Join WJA Foundation Board Davis is the director of business development at Select Jewelry Inc., and Mobley is the jewelry and watch editor at the Natural Diamond Council.
FinancialsDec 09, 2024
Movado’s Q3 Sales Down 3% Amid ‘Challenging’ EnvironmentThe retailer has been upping its marketing spend to drive revenue growth and brand awareness.
IndependentsDec 06, 2024
After 44 Years in Business, This Wisconsin Independent Is ClosingMike Straub and John Treiber opened Treiber & Straub in 1980 with the goal of bringing Milwaukeeans the best jewelry brands.
TrendsDec 06, 2024
Pantone’s Color of the Year Is a Delicious MousseThe color for 2025, “Mocha Mousse,” embodies thoughtful indulgences and everyday pleasures.
CollectionsDec 06, 2024
Piece of the Week: Cocoerow Fine Jewelry’s ‘Kokoro’ PendantThe Yoruba word for ant, “Kokoro” embodies the strength of womanhood in ant society while highlighting responsible sourcing.
FinancialsDec 06, 2024
Roberto Coin Acquisition Gives Watches of Switzerland a Boost in H1The retailer’s jewelry sales doubled, with branded jewelry performing especially well.
FinancialsDec 05, 2024
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Slide Amid Slow Engagement Ring Sales, Tech IssuesThe jewelry retailer addressed the lab-grown diamond “disruption,” the price of gold, and its holiday weekend performance.
SurveysDec 05, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rises Again in NovemberA more positive view of the current labor market boosted the Conference Board’s index last month.
Events & AwardsDec 05, 2024
Michael S. Krzemnicki to Receive 2024 Bonanno AwardThe director of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) will be honored for his impact on gemology and dedication to advancing the science.
Supplier BulletinDec 05, 2024
Join Us For Color's Premier Show: 2025 AGTA GemFair TucsonSponsored by 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson
Events & AwardsDec 05, 2024
BIJC Announces 2024 ‘Rock the Jewels’ Awards WinnersAt the annual event, in its second year, the organization honored those making remarkable contributions to the jewelry industry.
TrendsDec 05, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: A Blue, Blue, Blue Month Celebrate December babies with 20 pieces of jewelry featuring this month’s birthstones—turquoise, tanzanite, and zircon.
SurveysDec 04, 2024
In-Store Shopping Outpaced Online Over the Holiday Weekend, Says NRF A total of 126 million consumers shopped in stores over the five-day period, about 5 million more than last year.
Lab-GrownDec 04, 2024
GJEPC Says Indian Trade Will Use FTC-Approved Terminology for Lab-Grown DiamondsThe FTC’s Jewelry Guides require “clear and conspicuous” disclosure when advertising lab-grown diamonds.
SourcingDec 04, 2024
Designer Saul Fraiman Retires After 55 YearsThe fine jewelry designer, who came out of retirement in 2017, is putting down his sketchpad for good.
AuctionsDec 04, 2024
30-Carat Pink Diamond Fetches $2.6M at BonhamsThe Type IIa, very light pink colored diamond was the highlight of the recent Hong Kong jewelry auction.
