Editors

T.I.A., Part 3: East Africa’s Changing Gemstone Market

EditorsFeb 23, 2016

T.I.A., Part 3: East Africa’s Changing Gemstone Market

As Tanzania and Kenya move to have the export of all rough banned, both will need to focus on growing their cutting industries. Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator talks to a few people who are playing a part in that.

20160223_Arusha-Featured.jpg
I’m glad to finally be getting around to this blog post, because much of what it will address stems from the very conversation Roger Dery and I were having when he first invited me to travel with him to Africa. 

After I asked a question about the future of the iolite market for August’s Rocks On, we started discussing the movement toward “value addition” among mining ministries in East Africa, which can hardly be separated from a discussion about the future of certain gemstones sourced in the area.

A student at Tanzania’s Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre practices cutting techniques on a marble.
A student at Tanzania’s Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre practices cutting techniques on a marble.

Both Tanzania and Kenya have made announcements that within the next few years (they’re aiming for 2018), both will ban the export of gem-quality rough. Rather, the gemstones will be cut before leaving the country in an effort to add value to the stones and boost the economy.

This is only one part of the change and development that many are trying to bring to the gemstone market in East Africa, but since it also played a part in our trip, I want to focus on this for now.

It’ll be interesting to see if both Tanzania and Kenya are able to meet the deadlines they’ve set for themselves.

Tanzania already has a law in place that no tanzanite rough larger than 1 gram (5 carats) can be exported from the country, so the country’s infrastructure is more equipped to handle such a change over a period of a few years--Tanzania has roughly 600 gem cutters, as well as a number of lapidary schools already established.

We visited one of these while we were there--the Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre. It’s a small, independent vocational school run by Peter Salla, who was once a full-time trainer for TanzaniteOne. The school has graduated more than 800 students since its founding in 2000, nearly a third of which are women. While many of them pay tuition, Peter also looks for scholarship candidates, many times finding students who have come from very humble and difficult beginnings and wouldn’t have had the opportunity for such learning otherwise.

The center has two rooms, one of which is used as a classroom to teach students about grading and evaluating gems, and the other is set up for hands-on faceting work. When we went into the school, a handful of students were at work, dopping the stones with wax to the machines and practicing cutting marbles on various machines.

The Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre has successfully graduated hundreds of students with gemstone cutting knowledge, a skill set which will be very useful in the coming years. (Photo credit: Dan Lynch)
The Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre has successfully graduated hundreds of students with gemstone cutting knowledge, a skill set which will be very useful in the coming years. (Photo credit: Dan Lynch)

It’s clear that Peter works very hard to bring this skilled training to his students and is doing the kind of work that is needed if East Africa’s gemstone trade is going to grow and develop.

Kenya’s a little further behind its neighbor in establishing its cutting sector.

Roger told me that he estimates the country has somewhere in the range of 50 to 75 cutters. There also aren’t any lapidary schools operating yet, though the Kenyan government said last summer that it was investing some 30 million shillings (about $293,000) to set up a gemstone cutting center in Voi meant to create employment as well as adding value to the country’s stones.

While I was in East Africa, I also learned about a project that gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno and Roger are establishing, along with jewelry blogger Monica Stephenson of iDazzle--a private lapidary center in Kenya designed to help provide training for the people there.

The students at the Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre were cutting on several different machines, including a new Facetron they had received during one of Roger’s earlier trips.
The students at the Arusha Gemmological & Jewelry Vocational Training Centre were cutting on several different machines, including a new Facetron they had received during one of Roger’s earlier trips.

During our drive from the airport to the hotel on the first night we landed at Mt. Kilimanjaro, I had the chance to talk to Okeno about the challenges he’s seeing in the market and what he wants for the future. What continued to strike me about him then, and throughout the trip, was his sincerity in wanting to help others--not only wanting to elevate the gemstone market in East Africa into something sustainable, respected and valued for its quality stones but also wanting to create something that can provide opportunity for the population. 
 
Roger and Monica obviously share the same hopes as they help build the gem community in a way that allows the people involved to flourish and then contribute on their own. This center will definitely play a part in that, and though the conversation about the center was years in the making before the country made its intentions known, it is well-timed to take part in the movement.

It tentatively will be called the Voi Lapidary Centre, but that could change if they decide to add more skills than just gem cutting, Roger told me. Rather than being designed to be a profit center, the school will be meant to help train young people, who, after graduation, will be encouraged to either seek employment by firms or to take in their own work from various mining operations.

The skilled training that it, and places like Peter Salla’s school, offer will be necessary for East Africa’s gem trade to develop, and I’m happy to have met a few of the players who will have a hand in that. 

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of container ship in port
Policies & IssuesJul 07, 2025
Higher Tariffs Set to Take Effect Aug. 1, Officials Say

The announcement comes just as the 90-day freeze on the “reciprocal” tariffs nears its end, giving countries more time to negotiate.

David Kellie
MajorsJul 07, 2025
Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie To Step Down

Kellie, who joined the organization in 2019, will remain in his role through the end of 2025.

Suspects in Glendale burglary
CrimeJul 07, 2025
7 Suspects Charged in California Jewelry Store Burglary

Police officers apprehended the suspects as they were allegedly attempting to gain entry into another jewelry store.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Ella Klein Internship
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2025
Applications Open for Ella Klein Internship

The program, a collaboration between Julius Klein Diamonds and the Women’s Jewelry Association, is in its second year.

Weekly QuizJul 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinJul 03, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Madison Keys in Brilliant Earth campaign
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Brilliant Earth Names Tennis Star Madison Keys as Its New Ambassador

The 2025 Australian Open champion is the jewelry brand’s first athlete ambassador.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Muse Nordstrom shop-in-shop
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Muse Sets Up Shop in Nordstrom’s New Jewelry Hall

The West Village jewelry boutique’s new shop-in-shop is the cornerstone of Nordstrom’s revamped jewelry hall.

Shree Ramkrishna Exports
SourcingJul 03, 2025
SRK Announces Its Natural Diamonds Are Now Carbon-Negative

This past year, the manufacturer said it recorded below-zero emissions per carat of natural diamond.

Yeprem Golden Strada Statement Necklace
CollectionsJul 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Firework of Diamonds From Yeprem

The brand’s “Golden Strada” statement necklace features round, marquise, and pear diamonds that sparkle like Fourth of July fireworks.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeJul 03, 2025
JSA Shares Holiday Weekend Security Tips Amid Spike in Burglaries

JSA’s Scott Guginsky provided a list of nine security measures jewelers should observe while locking up for the long weekend.

Exterior and entryway of Boucheron’s Los Angeles Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Boucheron Looks to LA for First West Coast Flagship

Located on Rodeo Drive, the store’s design was inspired by Hollywood and Los Angeles culture.

Exterior of Marco Bicego Milan Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Marco Bicego Opens Milan Flagship

The new location continues the brand’s celebration of its 25th anniversary.

Chrono24 Time Is Our Thing campaign image
WatchesJul 02, 2025
Chrono24 Revamps Brand, Launches New Campaign

The online watch marketplace’s “Time Is Our Thing” campaign highlights the importance of time.

Bernadette Mack
SourcingJul 02, 2025
Bernadette Mack Joins Gem Legacy as Executive Director

She will oversee strategic planning, fundraising, industry partnerships, and the launch of the Gem Legacy Campus in Tanzania.

Counterfeit Pandora jewelry in bags and boxes
CrimeJul 02, 2025
Pandora, Amazon Partner to Uncover Counterfeit Jewelry Network

Working with Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit and law enforcement, Pandora helped to shut down a large-scale counterfeit network in China.

Cast Issa Rae
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Cast Closes Business, Plans for Relaunch

The jewelry company has closed its three California brick-and-mortar stores, as well as its online shop, for now.

Eve Goldberg, Matthew Denatale, Willie Lopez, Benjamin Goldberg
Events & AwardsJul 01, 2025
William Goldberg Diamonds, FIT Partner for Apprenticeship Program

The company is providing the opportunity for an FIT student to work alongside master diamond cutter Willie Lopez in its workshop.

Elie Hannoush
IndependentsJul 01, 2025
Elie Hannoush, Founder of Hannoush Jewelers, Dies at 73

He is remembered for his successful entrepreneurship, generosity, and dedication to his family.

Claire’s store
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Claire’s Is Looking for a Buyer, Report Says

The jewelry store chain has reportedly been struggling with costs related to tariffs as well as tough retail competition.

Mindi Mond Spike Earrings
TrendsJul 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Red Hot Rubies

Welcome warm summer days with red hot rubies perfectly chosen as July’s birthstone.

The Story of Everything Campaign, Toadstool Mushroom and Cosmic Egg
CollectionsJun 30, 2025
State Property’s New Jewelry Tells ‘The Story of Everything’

Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.

Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJun 30, 2025
The Smart Lab: Why Q3 Is the Secret Weapon For Holiday Jewelry Sales

The best time to prepare for the holiday season is right now, according to columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

Morgan Keefe
Events & AwardsJun 30, 2025
AGA Names Recipient of 2025 Gemological Education Scholarship

This year’s winner is Morgan Keefe, who is currently studying at GIA to be a gemologist.

The Jewelry Book
IndependentsJun 30, 2025
Melanie Grant’s New Book Explores 200 Years of Jewelry

“The Jewelry Book” comes out this September.

Gemist
TechnologyJun 27, 2025
Gemist Raises $6M in Funding to Scale Jewelry Tech Platform

The company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy