Editors

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

EditorsJan 12, 2016

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator reports live from East Africa, where she is exploring the colored gemstone market with a group from the industry.

“T.I.A. This is Africa.” Gem cutter Roger Dery must have written that phrase at least half a dozen times in the emails he sent to me and my traveling companions in the weeks leading up to our trip. It was meant to remind us that as prepared as we might try to be, anything could happen and we should just roll with the punches.

And now that I’m here, traveling through Kenya and Tanzania after Roger graciously invited me along on this trip so I could experience this end of the gemstone market firsthand as he buys rough, visits mines, and establishes important relationships in the communities, the phrase is frequently being thrown around as we navigate our way through the local environment and happenings.

My travel companions on this adventure include Roger and his wife, Ginger; Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry and her husband Joe Portale, both of whom are part of the Devon Foundation, which helps people in Africa involved in the gem trade; and another gemstone cutter, Dan Lynch.

Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.
Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.

After flying into the airport at Mount Kilimanjaro and spending a night in Marangu, Tanzania, the following day found us traveling to Kenya to begin our adventures.

This supplied the first of many new experiences for me, which was watching as two gemstone faceters look through rough to decide which stones, if any, they wanted to buy.

We went to the office of gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno in Voi, Kenya. (Gemstone dealer and broker are just two of the many hats Okeno wears. He also has his own mine and is working to build the local gemstone market, especially as it relates to cutting in the country—more on both of those in a future blog post—as well as being quite possibly the best tour guide and most gracious host imaginable.)

The first thing that struck me as I watched Roger sift through parcel after parcel of stones was how quickly he was able to navigate through them.

With one sweep of a light, he could evaluate within seconds the stones within a group that might be fit for a second look. After expressing my surprise out loud, he compared it with my ability as a journalist to read through a sentence and immediately spot any mistakes. Fair point.

A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya
A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya

As Roger was looking through rough, he explained the flaws that could rule out a stone immediately—factors like an unfavorable color, a size that wouldn’t yield a big enough stone to sell, and of course, the presence of inclusions that could present problems when it comes time to facet the stone.

I also was given the chance to look through the stones on my own.

I sifted through amethyst, many different types of garnet, tourmaline and more, trying to see what they were seeing (and also lusting after almost every stone, regardless of whether or not it was of faceting quality). 

There’s nothing quite like seeing the stones when they’re straight from the source and getting to understand what might take it to the next step in the market.

Stay tuned for more posts about our journey in Africa and the other sides of the gemstone market I’m seeing. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Amber Pepper
MajorsNov 21, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Names New CEO

Amber Pepper’s main focus will be on digital innovation and engaging younger consumers.

Rough diamonds from the Gahcho Kue mine in Canada
SourcingNov 21, 2025
De Beers’ Branded, Traceable Diamonds Roll Out to 19 Retailers

Called “Origin by De Beers Group,” the loose, polished diamonds are being sold in a total of 30 stores in the United States and Canada.

Melissa Kaye Rocky Infinity Emerald Necklace
CollectionsNov 21, 2025
Piece of the Week: Melissa Kaye’s ‘Rocky Infinity’ Necklace

The lariat necklace features a 4.88-carat oval-cut Zambian emerald in 18-karat yellow gold.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Phillips auction of The Vanderbilt Sapphire brooch
AuctionsNov 20, 2025
Vanderbilt Jewels Shine at Phillips Sale, Pink Diamond Withdrawn

A 43-carat sapphire brooch from the Vanderbilt collection was the top lot of the Geneva sale.

Weekly QuizNov 20, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Rebecca Rau Jewels Green Flame Necklace
CollectionsNov 20, 2025
Rebecca Rau Jewels Debuts With ‘Then & Now’ Collection

Rau is a fourth-generation art and antique dealer from M.S. Rau gallery whose first jewelry collection merges artifacts with modern design.

Purvi Shah
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2025
RJC Names New Executive Director

Former De Beers sustainability leader Purvi Shah will take over the role in February 2026.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

WatchesNov 20, 2025
LVMH Takes Minority Stake in Citizen Group-Owned Movement Maker

La Joux-Perret is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and makes solar quartz as well as mechanical watch movements.

Julia Griffith
GradingNov 20, 2025
Julia Griffith Joins SSEF as Head of Education

She previously taught at Gem-A and is the founder of The Gem Academy.

Helena Bonham Carter in Larkspur & Hawk Once Upon a Time Campaign
CollectionsNov 19, 2025
Larkspur & Hawk Celebrates 25 Years With Helena Bonham Carter Campaign

The British actress and her daughter modeled pieces from the brand’s new “Palette” capsule for its “Once Upon a Time” holiday campaign.

Google reviews on a phone screen and a laptop
TechnologyNov 19, 2025
Google Has a New Form for Reporting ‘Review Bombing’ Attacks

Plus, the tech giant shares the steps retailers should take if they believe they’re a victim of a review extortion scam.

Shaftel Diamonds logo and jeweler’s bench
IndependentsNov 19, 2025
Houston Jeweler Keith Shaftel Retires, Next Generation Steps In

Danny and Gaby Shaftel are now Shaftel Diamonds’ CEO and chief operating officer, respectively.

Midas chain mini studs
TrendsNov 19, 2025
Midas Chain Releases 2025 Holiday Style Guide

The jewelry manufacturer’s seasonal offering features its new “Melodie” bangles, as well as mini stud earrings and layering pieces.

Jewelry from NYC Jewelry Week 2024
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2025
NYC Jewelry Week 2025: 12 Must-See Events

With more than 140 activations taking place in New York City now through Nov. 23, these 12 events are can’t-miss moments.

Lugano Diamonds Greenwich Connecticut store
MajorsNov 18, 2025
Lugano Diamonds Files for Bankruptcy, Looking for Buyer

The Chapter 11 filing follows the resignation of CEO Moti Ferder, who stepped down after an investigation into the company’s finances.

Kathleen Ryan Dreamhouse Bad Fruit sculpture
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2025
A Giant, Bejeweled Moldy Berry Is on Display in LA

The artwork is part of an exhibition featuring works by Kathleen Ryan, an artist known for her gemstone-studded rotting fruit sculptures.

Rough diamonds from the Gahcho Kué mine in Canada
SourcingNov 18, 2025
Another Diamond Company CEO Steps Down

Mark Wall, president and CEO of Canadian mining company Mountain Province Diamonds, will vacate his position next month.

Suspects in murder of father and son jewelers in Chicago
CrimeNov 17, 2025
Police Searching for 2 Suspects in Murder of Father, Son Jewelers

Faustino Alamo Dominguez and his son, 25-year-old Luis Angel Alamo, were gunned down following an armed robbery at their jewelry store.

Jeffrey Bennett
GradingNov 17, 2025
IGI Announces New President of North America

Tiffany & Co. veteran Jeffrey Bennett has stepped into the role.

Robbins Brothers Pasadena store exterior
MajorsNov 17, 2025
Look Inside Robbins Brothers Fine Jewelers’ New Pasadena Flagship

The showroom is located in a historic 1920s building in the Playhouse District.

Rolex Perpetual 1908 watch with 18-karat yellow gold bracelet
Policies & IssuesNov 14, 2025
U.S., Switzerland Reach Deal That Drops Tariff to 15%

The Swiss government announced the deal, which cuts the tax on Swiss imports by more than half, on social media Friday morning.

Napoleon Bonaparte diamond brooch
AuctionsNov 14, 2025
Napoleon’s Diamond Brooch Blows Away Auction Estimates

A buyer paid $4.4 million for the piece, which Napoleon wore on his hat for special occasions and left behind when he fled Waterloo.

Buccellati Étoilée earrings
FinancialsNov 14, 2025
Richemont’s Q2 Jewelry Sales Up 12%

Plus, how tariffs and the rising price of gold are affecting its watch and jewelry brands.

Silvia Furmanovich x Mellerio Butterflies in Flight Jewelry Box
CollectionsNov 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Butterflies in Flight’ Jewelry Box

Furmanovich designed the box to hold Mellerio’s “Color Queen,” a high jewelry collection consisting of 10 rings.

JCK Las Vegas trade show
Events & AwardsNov 14, 2025
JCK Names New Event Director

Jennifer Hopf, who has been with JCK since 2022, will lead the execution of the long-running jewelry trade show.

Adler’s Jewelry storefronts New Orleans
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
127-Year-Old New Orleans Jeweler to Close

Adler’s Jewelry is set to close its two stores as 82-year-old owner Coleman E. Adler II retires.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy