Editors

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

EditorsJan 12, 2016

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator reports live from East Africa, where she is exploring the colored gemstone market with a group from the industry.

“T.I.A. This is Africa.” Gem cutter Roger Dery must have written that phrase at least half a dozen times in the emails he sent to me and my traveling companions in the weeks leading up to our trip. It was meant to remind us that as prepared as we might try to be, anything could happen and we should just roll with the punches.

And now that I’m here, traveling through Kenya and Tanzania after Roger graciously invited me along on this trip so I could experience this end of the gemstone market firsthand as he buys rough, visits mines, and establishes important relationships in the communities, the phrase is frequently being thrown around as we navigate our way through the local environment and happenings.

My travel companions on this adventure include Roger and his wife, Ginger; Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry and her husband Joe Portale, both of whom are part of the Devon Foundation, which helps people in Africa involved in the gem trade; and another gemstone cutter, Dan Lynch.

Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.
Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.

After flying into the airport at Mount Kilimanjaro and spending a night in Marangu, Tanzania, the following day found us traveling to Kenya to begin our adventures.

This supplied the first of many new experiences for me, which was watching as two gemstone faceters look through rough to decide which stones, if any, they wanted to buy.

We went to the office of gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno in Voi, Kenya. (Gemstone dealer and broker are just two of the many hats Okeno wears. He also has his own mine and is working to build the local gemstone market, especially as it relates to cutting in the country—more on both of those in a future blog post—as well as being quite possibly the best tour guide and most gracious host imaginable.)

The first thing that struck me as I watched Roger sift through parcel after parcel of stones was how quickly he was able to navigate through them.

With one sweep of a light, he could evaluate within seconds the stones within a group that might be fit for a second look. After expressing my surprise out loud, he compared it with my ability as a journalist to read through a sentence and immediately spot any mistakes. Fair point.

A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya
A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya

As Roger was looking through rough, he explained the flaws that could rule out a stone immediately—factors like an unfavorable color, a size that wouldn’t yield a big enough stone to sell, and of course, the presence of inclusions that could present problems when it comes time to facet the stone.

I also was given the chance to look through the stones on my own.

I sifted through amethyst, many different types of garnet, tourmaline and more, trying to see what they were seeing (and also lusting after almost every stone, regardless of whether or not it was of faceting quality). 

There’s nothing quite like seeing the stones when they’re straight from the source and getting to understand what might take it to the next step in the market.

Stay tuned for more posts about our journey in Africa and the other sides of the gemstone market I’m seeing. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMar 05, 2026
Tariffs to Increase to 15% This Week, Treasury Secretary Says

Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.

Common Era Difficult Women Pandora Pendant, Anne Boleyn Signet Ring, Cleopatra Pendant
CollectionsMar 05, 2026
Common Era Honors ‘Difficult Women’ in Collection

The ever-growing collection, which just expanded with the addition of Olga of Kyiv, features cameos of 12 women from history.

Diamond engagement rings by designer Lorraine West
TrendsMar 05, 2026
Engagement Ring Trends 2026: What’s In, and Why

We asked a jewelry historian, designer, bridal director, and wedding expert what’s trending in engagement rings. Here’s what they said.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

American Gem Society Conclave 2026 Orlando logo
Events & AwardsMar 05, 2026
AGS Announces Conclave 2026 Speaker Lineup

The annual event will be held in Orlando, Florida, from Sept. 14-17.

Weekly QuizFeb 26, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Caitríona Balfe on Only Natural Diamonds Spring 2026 Issue Cover
TrendsMar 05, 2026
Caitríona Balfe Fronts Only Natural Diamonds Cover

The “Outlander” star modeled for the digital cover of the magazine’s spring issue, which features a story on her relationship with jewelry.

CIBJO Milan
MajorsMar 05, 2026
Registration Opens for CIBJO Centenary Congress

This year’s annual congress, which will mark the confederation’s 100th anniversary, will take place this fall in Italy.

dca-laptop.jpg
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry Education

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

Michael M Beverly Hills Flagship Interior Rendering
MajorsMar 04, 2026
Michael M Opens First Store

Beverly Hills was chosen as the location for the brand’s first store, designed as a “private residence for modern monarchs.”

Dubai mall
Policies & IssuesMar 04, 2026
Luxury Brands Temporarily Shutter Middle East Stores

Kering, Apple, and other retailers have reportedly temporarily closed stores in the Middle East region in light of the recent conflicts.

JIS Miami Spring 2026
Events & AwardsMar 04, 2026
JIS Miami Spring Show to Feature New Gifts Pavilion, Pop-Up Trends Talks

Nearly half of buyers are prioritizing silver and fashion collections this season, organizers said.

Spinelli Kilcollin Live Now. Polish Later. Campaign
TrendsMar 04, 2026
Spinelli Kilcollin Rides Free In Year of the Horse Campaign

The “Live Now. Polish Later.” campaign features equestrians wearing the brand’s jewels while galloping across the icy plains of Kazakhstan.

Jennifer Ashworth
MajorsMar 04, 2026
LeachGarner Names New Brand Director

The precious metals provider has promoted Jennifer Ashworth to the role.

Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Award Grant Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2026
Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Awards Grant

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on March 13.

New Forevermark store in India
SourcingMar 03, 2026
7 Trends That Could Define the Diamond Industry’s Future

Experts from India weigh in the politics, policies, and market dynamics for diamantaires to monitor in 2026 and beyond.

Gannon & Scott and Metalor Technologies employees
MajorsMar 03, 2026
Swiss Refiner Completes Acquisition of Gannon & Scott

The American precious metals refiner’s day-to-day operations remain the same post-acquisition.

Isabel Delgado aquamarine earrings
TrendsMar 03, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Aquatopia

These aquamarine jewels channel the calming energy of the March birthstone.

AGTA Innovative Design Award
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2026
AGTA Adds Another New Category for Spectrum

The “Innovative Design” category and award will debut in the Spectrum division of this year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.

Person pushing a shopping cart
SurveysMar 02, 2026
Consumer Confidence Edges Up in February

Consumers were somewhat less worried about the future, though concerns about rising prices and politics remained.

Rebecca Foerster
Events & AwardsMar 02, 2026
JVC to Honor Rebecca Foerster at Annual Luncheon

Foerster is this year’s Stanley Schechter Award recipient.

JFC facets 2026
Events & AwardsMar 02, 2026
JFC Names 2026 ‘Facets’ Honorees

Sponsorships and tickets to the annual fundraising event, set for May 31, are available now.

Faustino Alamo Dominguez and his son, Luis Angel Alamo, of Joyeria Angelo’s in Chicago
CrimeFeb 27, 2026
Man Charged in Murders of Father, Son Jewelers in Chicago

Chicago police and members of the U.S. Marshals Service tracked down the 35-year-old suspect earlier this week in St. Louis.

Ekapa mine
SourcingFeb 27, 2026
South African Diamond Mine Closes Amid Search for Missing Workers

Owners of the Ekapa Mine reportedly filed for liquidation about a week after a mudslide trapped five workers who have yet to be found.

Savannah College of Art and Design Bench Jeweler
MajorsFeb 27, 2026
Jewelers Mutual to Donate $10M to Savannah College of Art and Design

A 10-year alliance has also begun to address the shortage of bench jewelers through scholarships, enhanced programs, and updated equipment.

Renato Cipullo Splendente R Stone Letter Pendant
CollectionsFeb 27, 2026
Renato Cipullo Turns Gold into Hardstones

The “Splendente” collection has evolved to feature hardstone letter pendants, including our Piece of the Week, the onyx “R.”

Lady Wardington and diamond clip brooch
AuctionsFeb 26, 2026
Noonans to Auction Lady Wardington’s Jewelry

The jewelry collection belonged to “one of society's most glamorous and beautiful women of the mid-20th century,” said the auction house.

Rough diamonds from De Beers
SourcingFeb 26, 2026
Anglo American CEO Gives Insight Into De Beers Sale

The update came as Anglo took its third write-down on the diamond miner and marketer, which lost more than $500 million in 2025.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy