Editors

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

EditorsJan 12, 2016

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator reports live from East Africa, where she is exploring the colored gemstone market with a group from the industry.

“T.I.A. This is Africa.” Gem cutter Roger Dery must have written that phrase at least half a dozen times in the emails he sent to me and my traveling companions in the weeks leading up to our trip. It was meant to remind us that as prepared as we might try to be, anything could happen and we should just roll with the punches.

And now that I’m here, traveling through Kenya and Tanzania after Roger graciously invited me along on this trip so I could experience this end of the gemstone market firsthand as he buys rough, visits mines, and establishes important relationships in the communities, the phrase is frequently being thrown around as we navigate our way through the local environment and happenings.

My travel companions on this adventure include Roger and his wife, Ginger; Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry and her husband Joe Portale, both of whom are part of the Devon Foundation, which helps people in Africa involved in the gem trade; and another gemstone cutter, Dan Lynch.

Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.
Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.

After flying into the airport at Mount Kilimanjaro and spending a night in Marangu, Tanzania, the following day found us traveling to Kenya to begin our adventures.

This supplied the first of many new experiences for me, which was watching as two gemstone faceters look through rough to decide which stones, if any, they wanted to buy.

We went to the office of gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno in Voi, Kenya. (Gemstone dealer and broker are just two of the many hats Okeno wears. He also has his own mine and is working to build the local gemstone market, especially as it relates to cutting in the country—more on both of those in a future blog post—as well as being quite possibly the best tour guide and most gracious host imaginable.)

The first thing that struck me as I watched Roger sift through parcel after parcel of stones was how quickly he was able to navigate through them.

With one sweep of a light, he could evaluate within seconds the stones within a group that might be fit for a second look. After expressing my surprise out loud, he compared it with my ability as a journalist to read through a sentence and immediately spot any mistakes. Fair point.

A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya
A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya

As Roger was looking through rough, he explained the flaws that could rule out a stone immediately—factors like an unfavorable color, a size that wouldn’t yield a big enough stone to sell, and of course, the presence of inclusions that could present problems when it comes time to facet the stone.

I also was given the chance to look through the stones on my own.

I sifted through amethyst, many different types of garnet, tourmaline and more, trying to see what they were seeing (and also lusting after almost every stone, regardless of whether or not it was of faceting quality). 

There’s nothing quite like seeing the stones when they’re straight from the source and getting to understand what might take it to the next step in the market.

Stay tuned for more posts about our journey in Africa and the other sides of the gemstone market I’m seeing. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Smart Age CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJun 24, 2026
The Revenue Hiding Between Your Counter and Your Online Cart

Jewelers are missing out by not offering this one key add-on at the online point of sale, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Hyacinth Charm on Hackmanite Bead Strand, Peach Opal Bead Strand, Hydrangea Charm on Aquamarine Bead Strand
CollectionsJun 24, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers, Jewel Boxing’s Latest Drop Is On-Trend

The fourth collaborative collection from the retailer and jewelry content creator focuses on gemstone charms and strands of colorful beads.

“Elements” bracelet best of show AGTA Spectrum 2025
Events & AwardsJun 24, 2026
AGTA Accepting Entries for Spectrum 2026

This year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards will feature two new categories.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Columbia Gem House alexandrite
SourcingJun 24, 2026
Columbia Gem House To Offer Alexandrite Melee Online

The collection features traceable alexandrite from Brazil in calibrated sizes that is sorted by grade.

Weekly QuizJun 17, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Dhaval Raja
MajorsJun 24, 2026
CaratLane Names New Chief Sales Officer

Dhaval Raja has been appointed to the role.

Francesca Villa On the Road Collection Race On Brooch and Long Road Necklace
CollectionsJun 23, 2026
Francesca Villa Goes ‘On the Road’

The capsule collection looks to vintage trunk pins that echo the spirit of speed, freedom, and the mythology of the American road trip.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

A group of Paraiba tourmalines, two of which are possibly from Ethiopia
SourcingJun 23, 2026
New Paraíba Tourmaline Source Reportedly Discovered in Ethiopia

SSEF issued a notice about the potential new source of the sought-after gemstone, citing “credible reports” from trade sources.

Etsy Shop Other Jeffs campaign on a truck
MajorsJun 23, 2026
Etsy Says ‘Shop Other Jeffs’ This Prime Day

As Amazon Prime Day kicks off, Etsy is encouraging shoppers to support small businesses.

Cole Winward
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 Scholarship Winner

Cole Winward is the recipient of 2026 AGA Gemological Scholarship.

Picture from press conference in Basel for new trade show, Basilia
Events & AwardsJun 22, 2026
Plans Announced for New Trade Show in Basel

Scheduled for April 2027, Basilia will be the first watch and jewelry trade show held in Basel since the collapse of Baselworld in 2020.

Gem Awards 2027 Logo
Events & AwardsJun 22, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination Period

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Engineer Master II Snoopy Flying Ace Ball watch
WatchesJun 22, 2026
Snoopy Inspires New ‘Flying Ace’ Ball Watch

The beloved beagle dons his aviator outfit for the new Engineer Master II Snoopy Flying Ace timepiece.

Sotheby’s Paraiba tourmaline 7.70 carats
AuctionsJun 18, 2026
Paraíba Tourmalines Sell for $3.4M at Sotheby's

The recent high jewelry auction, which also featured the sale of a 10-carat blue diamond, was “a celebration of color.”

Almasika Le Cauri Endiamanté Drop Earrings
CollectionsJun 18, 2026
Michelle Obama Wears Almasika Earrings Symbolizing Feminine Power

She wore the “Le Cauri Endiamanté” earrings, our Piece of the Week, in the Obamas’ first dual portrait for the Obama Presidential Center.

Graphic for Episode 6 of My Next Question featuring Michelle Orman
PodcastsJun 17, 2026
Episode 6: Las Vegas 2026-Trends, Traffic, Broken Bathrooms

Couture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.

SSEF emerald with filler
GradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled Emeralds

The lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.

Former Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern
WatchesJun 17, 2026
Patek Philippe’s ‘Visionary’ Leader Philippe Stern Dies at 88

The third generation of the Stern family to head Patek Philippe, he navigated the “quartz crisis” and preserved the brand’s independence.

James Avery Schertz Texas storefront
MajorsJun 17, 2026
James Avery to Revamp In-Store Retail Experience

The Texas-based jeweler is gradually rolling out a new experience-forward layout in its stores.

Seattle Seahawks Championship Ring by Jason of Beverly Hills
MajorsJun 17, 2026
Seahawks’ Super Bowl Ring Blends Meaningful Design, Technical Craftsmanship

The Super Bowl LX champions were honored with diamond and blue sapphire rings by Jason of Beverly Hills.

Marianna Smirnova
Policies & IssuesJun 17, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Names New Executive Director

Marianna Smirnova previously spent a decade working with the Responsible Minerals Initiative, in addition to other relevant roles.

NBA Larry O'Brien Trophy
MajorsJun 16, 2026
5 Things to Know About the 2026 NBA Championship Trophy

The New York Knicks took home the Larry O'Brien Trophy crafted by Tiffany & Co.

Lionheart Cactus Pendant
TrendsJun 16, 2026
Post-Vegas Jewelry Trend Report: Big Beads, Western Flair, White Metals

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco lists the trends she spotted during Jewelry Market Week that will dominate the second half of 2026.

Oscar Heyman ruby ring
SourcingJun 16, 2026
GemGuide Updates Ruby Prices

Its app now reflects increased prices for Mozambique ruby, as well as changes to its Burma ruby charts.

Alicia Arnold
MajorsJun 16, 2026
Sasha Primak Hires New Design Director

The manufacturer has tapped Alicia Arnold, the former director of custom design at Tiny Jewel Box.

Boulle family in hard hats
IndependentsJun 15, 2026
DeBoulle Diamond & Jewelry to Renovate Dallas Flagship

The revamped, elevated space will feature a two-story Patek Philippe atelier and a rooftop patio for parties.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy