Editors

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

EditorsJan 12, 2016

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator reports live from East Africa, where she is exploring the colored gemstone market with a group from the industry.

“T.I.A. This is Africa.” Gem cutter Roger Dery must have written that phrase at least half a dozen times in the emails he sent to me and my traveling companions in the weeks leading up to our trip. It was meant to remind us that as prepared as we might try to be, anything could happen and we should just roll with the punches.

And now that I’m here, traveling through Kenya and Tanzania after Roger graciously invited me along on this trip so I could experience this end of the gemstone market firsthand as he buys rough, visits mines, and establishes important relationships in the communities, the phrase is frequently being thrown around as we navigate our way through the local environment and happenings.

My travel companions on this adventure include Roger and his wife, Ginger; Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry and her husband Joe Portale, both of whom are part of the Devon Foundation, which helps people in Africa involved in the gem trade; and another gemstone cutter, Dan Lynch.

Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.
Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.

After flying into the airport at Mount Kilimanjaro and spending a night in Marangu, Tanzania, the following day found us traveling to Kenya to begin our adventures.

This supplied the first of many new experiences for me, which was watching as two gemstone faceters look through rough to decide which stones, if any, they wanted to buy.

We went to the office of gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno in Voi, Kenya. (Gemstone dealer and broker are just two of the many hats Okeno wears. He also has his own mine and is working to build the local gemstone market, especially as it relates to cutting in the country—more on both of those in a future blog post—as well as being quite possibly the best tour guide and most gracious host imaginable.)

The first thing that struck me as I watched Roger sift through parcel after parcel of stones was how quickly he was able to navigate through them.

With one sweep of a light, he could evaluate within seconds the stones within a group that might be fit for a second look. After expressing my surprise out loud, he compared it with my ability as a journalist to read through a sentence and immediately spot any mistakes. Fair point.

A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya
A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya

As Roger was looking through rough, he explained the flaws that could rule out a stone immediately—factors like an unfavorable color, a size that wouldn’t yield a big enough stone to sell, and of course, the presence of inclusions that could present problems when it comes time to facet the stone.

I also was given the chance to look through the stones on my own.

I sifted through amethyst, many different types of garnet, tourmaline and more, trying to see what they were seeing (and also lusting after almost every stone, regardless of whether or not it was of faceting quality). 

There’s nothing quite like seeing the stones when they’re straight from the source and getting to understand what might take it to the next step in the market.

Stay tuned for more posts about our journey in Africa and the other sides of the gemstone market I’m seeing. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Rolex Perpetual 1908 watch with 18-karat yellow gold bracelet
Policies & IssuesNov 14, 2025
U.S., Switzerland Reach Deal That Drops Tariff to 15%

The Swiss government announced the deal, which cuts the tax on Swiss imports by more than half, on social media Friday morning.

Napoleon Bonaparte diamond brooch
AuctionsNov 14, 2025
Napoleon’s Diamond Brooch Blows Away Auction Estimates

A buyer paid $4.4 million for the piece, which Napoleon wore on his hat for special occasions and left behind when he fled Waterloo.

Buccellati Étoilée earrings
FinancialsNov 14, 2025
Richemont’s Q2 Jewelry Sales Up 12%

Plus, how tariffs and the rising price of gold are affecting its watch and jewelry brands.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Silvia Furmanovich x Mellerio Butterflies in Flight Jewelry Box
CollectionsNov 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Butterflies in Flight’ Jewelry Box

Furmanovich designed the box to hold Mellerio’s “Color Queen,” a high jewelry collection consisting of 10 rings.

Weekly QuizNov 13, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
JCK Las Vegas trade show
Events & AwardsNov 14, 2025
JCK Names New Event Director

Jennifer Hopf, who has been with JCK since 2022, will lead the execution of the long-running jewelry trade show.

Adler’s Jewelry storefronts New Orleans
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
127-Year-Old New Orleans Jeweler to Close

Adler’s Jewelry is set to close its two stores as 82-year-old owner Coleman E. Adler II retires.

20-Under-40-2025-LV.png
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for Members

From educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.

Green Lake Jewelry Works Seattle interior
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
Green Lake Jewelry Works to Move to New Seattle Studio

Founder Jim Tuttle shared how a dedication to craftsmanship and meaningful custom jewelry fueled the retailer’s double-digit growth.

Leon V. Der Calousdian
MajorsNov 13, 2025
Vahan Jewelry Founder Leon ‘Sacha’ Der Calousdian Dies at 85

The third-generation jeweler is remembered as a passionate creative with a love of art, traveling and sailboat racing.

Father-son jewelers Faustino Alamo Dominguez and Luis Angel Alamo
CrimeNov 12, 2025
Father, Son Jewelers in Chicago Victims in Double Homicide

JSA and Cook County Crime Stoppers are both offering rewards for information leading to the arrest of the suspect or suspects involved.

Mellon Blue Diamond Christies
AuctionsNov 12, 2025
‘Mellon Blue’ Diamond Sells for $7M Less Than It Did a Decade Ago

A buyer paid $25.6 million for the diamond at Christie’s on Tuesday. In 2014, Sotheby’s sold the same stone for $32.6 million.

Mercedes Gleitze Companion Oyster
AuctionsNov 12, 2025
Historic Rolex Oyster Fetches $1.7M at Sotheby’s

Mercedes Gleitze famously wore the watch in her 1927 swim across the English Channel, a pivotal credibility moment for the watchmaker.

Gemological Institute of America logo
GradingNov 12, 2025
It’s Time: GIA’s Express Holiday Service Is Back

GIA is offering next-day services for natural, colorless diamonds submitted to its labs in New York and Carlsbad.

Tiffany & Co. Love Is a Gift Campaign and David Yurman The Joy of Extraordinary Memories campaign
MajorsNov 10, 2025
Jewelers Focus on Love, Joy In 2025 Holiday Campaigns

Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, and Pandora have launched holiday campaigns depicting their jewelry as symbols of affection and happiness.

Hand holding holiday shopping bags
SurveysNov 10, 2025
5 Things Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This Year

The National Retail Federation is bullish on the holidays, forecasting retail sales to exceed $1 trillion this year.

The Rainbow Collection Christies
AuctionsNov 10, 2025
300+ Colored Diamonds Up for Auction at Christie’s

Late collector Eddy Elzas assembled “The Rainbow Collection,” which is offered as a single lot and estimated to fetch up to $3 million.

Foundrae Palm Beach Location Exterior and Founder Beth Hutchens
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’

The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%

The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.

AGTA Spectrum winners
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors

Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.

G. St x Jewel Boxing Raffle for City Harvest Graphic
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food Rescue

All proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.

Courtney Cornell
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New President

Courtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.

Trucks at Orapa diamond mine
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3

De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.

Ulrich Wohn
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts

Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.

Artifex White Diamond, Fancy Dark Yellowish Brown Diamond, and Blue Sapphire Rings
AuctionsNov 05, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Designer Makes Her Auction Debut

Kindred Lubeck of Artifex has three rings she designed with Anup Jogani in Sotheby’s upcoming Gem Drop sale.

Tyla Pandora Talisman collection
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment

The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall Peace Medallion
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%

The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy