Editors

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

EditorsJan 12, 2016

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator reports live from East Africa, where she is exploring the colored gemstone market with a group from the industry.

“T.I.A. This is Africa.” Gem cutter Roger Dery must have written that phrase at least half a dozen times in the emails he sent to me and my traveling companions in the weeks leading up to our trip. It was meant to remind us that as prepared as we might try to be, anything could happen and we should just roll with the punches.

And now that I’m here, traveling through Kenya and Tanzania after Roger graciously invited me along on this trip so I could experience this end of the gemstone market firsthand as he buys rough, visits mines, and establishes important relationships in the communities, the phrase is frequently being thrown around as we navigate our way through the local environment and happenings.

My travel companions on this adventure include Roger and his wife, Ginger; Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry and her husband Joe Portale, both of whom are part of the Devon Foundation, which helps people in Africa involved in the gem trade; and another gemstone cutter, Dan Lynch.

Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.
Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.

After flying into the airport at Mount Kilimanjaro and spending a night in Marangu, Tanzania, the following day found us traveling to Kenya to begin our adventures.

This supplied the first of many new experiences for me, which was watching as two gemstone faceters look through rough to decide which stones, if any, they wanted to buy.

We went to the office of gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno in Voi, Kenya. (Gemstone dealer and broker are just two of the many hats Okeno wears. He also has his own mine and is working to build the local gemstone market, especially as it relates to cutting in the country—more on both of those in a future blog post—as well as being quite possibly the best tour guide and most gracious host imaginable.)

The first thing that struck me as I watched Roger sift through parcel after parcel of stones was how quickly he was able to navigate through them.

With one sweep of a light, he could evaluate within seconds the stones within a group that might be fit for a second look. After expressing my surprise out loud, he compared it with my ability as a journalist to read through a sentence and immediately spot any mistakes. Fair point.

A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya
A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya

As Roger was looking through rough, he explained the flaws that could rule out a stone immediately—factors like an unfavorable color, a size that wouldn’t yield a big enough stone to sell, and of course, the presence of inclusions that could present problems when it comes time to facet the stone.

I also was given the chance to look through the stones on my own.

I sifted through amethyst, many different types of garnet, tourmaline and more, trying to see what they were seeing (and also lusting after almost every stone, regardless of whether or not it was of faceting quality). 

There’s nothing quite like seeing the stones when they’re straight from the source and getting to understand what might take it to the next step in the market.

Stay tuned for more posts about our journey in Africa and the other sides of the gemstone market I’m seeing. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Main camp at Ekati Diamond Mine
SourcingJul 16, 2026
Ekati to Close, Leaving Canada With One Diamond Mine

The diamond mine, which opened nearly 30 years ago in Canada’s Northwest Territories, is expected to shut down by mid-August.

Necklace from Vhernier’s “Freccia” high jewelry collection
FinancialsJul 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Soar for the Seventh Quarter in a Row

Jewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.

Lucara diamond
SourcingJul 15, 2026
1,305-Carat Diamond Recovered from Mine in Botswana

The yet-to-be named stone is the 10th diamond weighing more than 1,000 carats to come out of Lucara’s Karowe mine.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Barry Berman
IndependentsJul 15, 2026
New Jersey Jeweler Barry Berman Dies at 81

The founder of Fords Jewelers, Berman is remembered for his love of connecting with his community.

Weekly QuizJul 09, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsJul 15, 2026
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Jump 18%, Declines to Comment on Sale Report

The watch and jewelry retailer had a strong fiscal year despite what its CEO described as a “complex operating backdrop.”

Hamptons Jewelry Show exhibitors Maison Mèrenor, Jochen Leën, Studio Javo
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in July

The open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Pomellato Eye of Tanzanite Necklace and Pin-Up Ring
CollectionsJul 15, 2026
Pomellato’s New High Jewelry Is Liberating

Bold color, expressive gem-setting, and sculptural form define the three chapters that make up “Stile Libero.”

Foundrae London Store Showcases
IndependentsJul 14, 2026
Foundrae Opens First Standalone Store Outside US

The New York-based jewelry brand has expanded overseas, opening a store in London’s Mayfair district.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: What Today’s Jewelry Consumer Is Telling Us

Rising revenue does not automatically mean a healthy business, particularly in the current economic landscape, Smith writes.

Mindi Mond New York emerald shoulder duster earrings
TrendsJul 14, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Shoulder Dusters

These long, fluid drop earrings are sure to catch the eye.

FBI Most Wanted image of Alberto Perez-Elias
CrimeJul 14, 2026
Man Charged in $1M Jewelry Store Heist Lands on FBI Most Wanted List

Alberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged with robbing a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and is the only one still at large.

Aerial view of Amazon
Events & AwardsJul 14, 2026
Conference on Mining, Sustainability Kicks Off in NYC

Initiatives in Art and Culture is hosting its 16th annual Gold and Diamond Conference, with the theme of “Resilience.”

Stephanie Gottlieb Casual Carats Lab-Grown Dimond and Silicone Rings
Lab-GrownJul 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Changes Her Mind on Lab-Grown Diamonds

The designer, who once said she’d never sell lab-grown diamonds, debuted two capsule collections designed to be fun and easy to wear.

File photo of the Venetia Diamond Mine in South Africa
SourcingJul 13, 2026
De Beers Announces Potential Layoffs, 2-Year Production Pause at Venetia

The diamond miner and marketer is undergoing another round of cost-cutting measures ahead of its sale by Anglo American.

JIS sign in convention center lobby
Events & AwardsJul 13, 2026
Registration Opens for JIS Fall 2026 Show

The annual trade-only buying event is slated for Oct. 16-19 in Miami Beach, Florida.

“Elements” bracelet best of show AGTA Spectrum 2025
Events & AwardsJul 13, 2026
AGTA Accepting Entries for Spectrum 2026

AGTA also has announced the lineup of judges for the colored gemstone cutting and jewelry design contest’s various categories.

Arena Club Twilight and Eclipse Time Boxes
TechnologyJul 10, 2026
There’s a New Blind Box for Luxury Watches

Collectibles platform Arena Club’s new Time Boxes could contain a Rolex or Patek Philippe watch.

Jade Trau Constellation Plié Collar
TrendsJul 10, 2026
Jade Trau Creates a Constellation of Diamonds

The “Constellation Plié” collar, our Piece of the Week, features diamonds arranged in a constellation of shining stars.

Former De Beers CFO of Brands and Consumer Markets Shaun Wills
SourcingJul 10, 2026
CFO of De Beers’ Consumer-Facing Division Leaves Company

Shaun Wills joined the company in 2024 and was chief financial officer of the De Beers Brands and Consumer Markets division.

Brilliant Earth watches
WatchesJul 10, 2026
Brilliant Earth Expands Into Watches

In honor of its 20th anniversary, the jewelry brand has released a limited-edition collection of Swiss-made timepieces.

Boucheron Human Being Collection Tattoo Necklace
CollectionsJul 09, 2026
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to the Human Touch

“Human Being” highlights the similarities and differences between us through five sets of jewelry that celebrate fine craftsmanship.

Baume & Mercier watch
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & Mercier

Richemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.

Joopiter Logo
AuctionsJul 09, 2026
Pharrell Williams’ Joopiter Hires Former Bonhams Exec to Head New Watch Division

Nate Borgelt will lead the digital auction house and content platform’s new division as head of watches.

Enoch Michael
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
Halstead Names 2026 Grant Winner

Enoch Platero, founder and designer behind Enoch Michael, is the first Native American jeweler to win the award.

Karen Fox and Jenna Siegel
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
AGS, GIA Name 2026 Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also announced the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy