Editors

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

EditorsJan 12, 2016

T.I.A., Part 1: Shopping for Rough in Kenya

Associate Editor Brecken Branstrator reports live from East Africa, where she is exploring the colored gemstone market with a group from the industry.

“T.I.A. This is Africa.” Gem cutter Roger Dery must have written that phrase at least half a dozen times in the emails he sent to me and my traveling companions in the weeks leading up to our trip. It was meant to remind us that as prepared as we might try to be, anything could happen and we should just roll with the punches.

And now that I’m here, traveling through Kenya and Tanzania after Roger graciously invited me along on this trip so I could experience this end of the gemstone market firsthand as he buys rough, visits mines, and establishes important relationships in the communities, the phrase is frequently being thrown around as we navigate our way through the local environment and happenings.

My travel companions on this adventure include Roger and his wife, Ginger; Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry and her husband Joe Portale, both of whom are part of the Devon Foundation, which helps people in Africa involved in the gem trade; and another gemstone cutter, Dan Lynch.

Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.
Here’s gemstone cutter Roger Dery evaluating some of the rough stones we saw in Voi, Kenya.

After flying into the airport at Mount Kilimanjaro and spending a night in Marangu, Tanzania, the following day found us traveling to Kenya to begin our adventures.

This supplied the first of many new experiences for me, which was watching as two gemstone faceters look through rough to decide which stones, if any, they wanted to buy.

We went to the office of gemstone dealer and broker Gichuchu Okeno in Voi, Kenya. (Gemstone dealer and broker are just two of the many hats Okeno wears. He also has his own mine and is working to build the local gemstone market, especially as it relates to cutting in the country—more on both of those in a future blog post—as well as being quite possibly the best tour guide and most gracious host imaginable.)

The first thing that struck me as I watched Roger sift through parcel after parcel of stones was how quickly he was able to navigate through them.

With one sweep of a light, he could evaluate within seconds the stones within a group that might be fit for a second look. After expressing my surprise out loud, he compared it with my ability as a journalist to read through a sentence and immediately spot any mistakes. Fair point.

A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya
A parcel of rough amethyst we saw in Voi, Kenya

As Roger was looking through rough, he explained the flaws that could rule out a stone immediately—factors like an unfavorable color, a size that wouldn’t yield a big enough stone to sell, and of course, the presence of inclusions that could present problems when it comes time to facet the stone.

I also was given the chance to look through the stones on my own.

I sifted through amethyst, many different types of garnet, tourmaline and more, trying to see what they were seeing (and also lusting after almost every stone, regardless of whether or not it was of faceting quality). 

There’s nothing quite like seeing the stones when they’re straight from the source and getting to understand what might take it to the next step in the market.

Stay tuned for more posts about our journey in Africa and the other sides of the gemstone market I’m seeing. 
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Graphic for Episode 6 of My Next Question featuring Michelle Orman
PodcastsJun 17, 2026
Episode 6: Las Vegas 2026-Trends, Traffic, Broken Bathrooms

Couture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.

SSEF emerald with filler
GradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled Emeralds

The lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.

Former Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern
WatchesJun 17, 2026
Patek Philippe’s ‘Visionary’ Leader Philippe Stern Dies at 88

The third generation of the Stern family to head Patek Philippe, he navigated the “quartz crisis” and preserved the brand’s independence.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

James Avery Schertz Texas storefront
MajorsJun 17, 2026
James Avery to Revamp In-Store Retail Experience

The Texas-based jeweler is gradually rolling out a new experience-forward layout in its stores.

Weekly QuizJun 17, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Seattle Seahawks Championship Ring by Jason of Beverly Hills
MajorsJun 17, 2026
Seahawks’ Super Bowl Ring Blends Meaningful Design, Technical Craftsmanship

The Super Bowl LX champions were honored with diamond and blue sapphire rings by Jason of Beverly Hills.

Marianna Smirnova
Policies & IssuesJun 17, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Names New Executive Director

Marianna Smirnova previously spent a decade working with the Responsible Minerals Initiative, in addition to other relevant roles.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

NBA Larry O'Brien Trophy
MajorsJun 16, 2026
5 Things to Know About the 2026 NBA Championship Trophy

The New York Knicks took home the Larry O'Brien Trophy crafted by Tiffany & Co.

Lionheart Cactus Pendant
TrendsJun 16, 2026
Post-Vegas Jewelry Trend Report: Big Beads, Western Flair, White Metals

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco lists the trends she spotted during Jewelry Market Week that will dominate the second half of 2026.

Oscar Heyman ruby ring
SourcingJun 16, 2026
GemGuide Updates Ruby Prices

Its app now reflects increased prices for Mozambique ruby, as well as changes to its Burma ruby charts.

Alicia Arnold
MajorsJun 16, 2026
Sasha Primak Hires New Design Director

The manufacturer has tapped Alicia Arnold, the former director of custom design at Tiny Jewel Box.

Boulle family in hard hats
IndependentsJun 15, 2026
DeBoulle Diamond & Jewelry to Renovate Dallas Flagship

The revamped, elevated space will feature a two-story Patek Philippe atelier and a rooftop patio for parties.

G Shock Coca Cola
WatchesJun 15, 2026
G-Shock, Coca-Cola Partner on Bottle-Inspired Watch

The special-edition piece marks the 140th anniversary of the iconic beverage brand.

Buddha Mama earrings
TrendsJun 15, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Tiny Charms Are Trending

Here are 13 small charms to inspire your layered looks this summer.

16th century flower cluster hogback diamond ring
AuctionsJun 12, 2026
16th-Century ‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Going Up for Auction in London

Found by a metal detectorist, the ring likely belonged to a wealthy, possibly royal, owner, said Noonans.

Chouette Designs Margaux Ring
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of Love

Our Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.

CBG logo
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix Show

The group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.

Grandview Klein diamonds
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat Rough

The big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.

Marie-Laure Cérède
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation Studio

Marie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.

Smiling Rocks booth at JCK Las Vegas 2026
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas

At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.

Ilana McCabe
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good Board

Ilana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.

Azure blue diamond and 5.04-carat fancy vivid blue diamond
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’s

It was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.

Saks Fifth Avenue New York City storefront
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for Reorganization

The approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.

Jalen Javon Davis and Leslie La Vun Jones II
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store Robbery

The men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.

Sylvie Levine wearing engagement ring
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s Ring

The bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.

Russ Whitehouse
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse Retires

The industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy