Grading

Lab Group Updates Padparadscha Requirements, Treatment Vocab

GradingDec 17, 2018

Lab Group Updates Padparadscha Requirements, Treatment Vocab

The Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee clarified on a disqualifying trait for padparadscha sapphires and how lab reports should address new corundum treatments.

Lucerne, Switzerland—The Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee has further harmonized the color description for padparadscha sapphires and vocabulary regarding new treatments on lab reports.

The LMHC recently had its 29th meeting, hosted by Gübelin Gem Lab in Lucerne, Switzerland, on Nov. 14 and 15.

The committee currently is comprised of representatives from the Central Gem Laboratory (CGL), CISGEM Laboratory, DSEF German Gem Lab, Gübelin, the Gemological Institute of America, the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) and the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF.

During the meeting, the first major point the labs agreed to clarify was the use of the term “padparadscha.” They deemed that the term can’t apply to a gemstone if the color is unstable and shifts to pink when exposed to a color stability test.

When asked why the LMHC wanted to clarify this point, Lore Kiefert, chief gemologist at Gübelin as well as host of the meeting and past co-chair of the LMHC, said the decision came after the SSEF discovered issues with the color stability of some padparadschas.

“If you buy a gemstone as a padparadscha and several days later it is a pink sapphire, you have probably overpaid, so we need to make a comment about the color stability,” she said.

The Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee said that corundum with an unstable color, as shown in this photo, is not qualified to be called “padparadscha.”
The Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee said that corundum with an unstable color, as shown in this photo, is not qualified to be called “padparadscha.”

The LMHC currently defines padparadscha as a “a variety of corundum from any geographical origin whose color is a subtle mixture of pinkish orange to orangey pink with pastel tones and low to medium saturations when viewed in standard daylight.”

Kiefert said that definition won’t be narrowed any time soon, given that each market has its own perception of what comprises a padparadscha. As it is, she added, it already has taken a great amount of time to come to the current conclusion. 

However they are looking into a color communication system to see if they can define the same borders for colors at all of their labs.

The LMHC also addressed issues raised by new treatments, including the low-temperature heating of corundum and a new sapphire heat treatment that has been incorrectly named High Pressure-High Temperature (HPHT) within the trade.

RELATED CONTENT: State of the Colored Gemstone Market: All Together Now?

In regards to the latter, the LMHC said current data available from member labs shows the treatment is essentially a form of heating and, as a result, is similar to most known heating techniques.

For this reason, it doesn’t require a specific reference on lab reports beyond the standard disclosure of heat treatments, though the committee did stress that heat treatments can create fissures or expand pre-existing fissures in a gemstone, especially when high temperatures are applied, possibly having a negative impact on the stability of the heated stone.

The LMHC said it also kicked off a project aimed at harmonizing the use of color descriptors and trade color terms at its member labs, though there is no additional information available yet regarding what that might include or what the timeline might be.

The LMHC also approved new info sheets about organic fissure-filling in gems and hydrophane opal. Kiefert said the two sheets were already in existence but were just now finalized.

The LMHC usually meets once per year and has tentatively set its next meeting for November 2019.

The ICA has scheduled its next Gemstone Industry and Laboratory Conference, addressing similar issues, for the 2019 Tucson gem shows.

The LMHC has no formal ties to any trade organization. The info sheets it creates are a result of harmonization attempts of its member labs and are also meant to help the trade understand the wording on LMHC member reports. They also are meant to serve as recommendations for other labs that may come across the same issues.

All LMHC info sheets can be accessed on its website.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Daughters of the Deep indicolite earrings
EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking About

From a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.

Pat Pruitt Dragonfly Earrings
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election Night

Groundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.

Colin Jost in Kay Jewelers holiday ad
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday Ad

Jost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.

overnight btyb 1026.png
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to Sell

With customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.

GCAL 8X_NJSB_1.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the Counter

Sponsored by GCAL by Sarine

Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Wrapped holiday gift boxes
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This Year

From shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.

Little Pet Portrait Pendants by Russell Jones & Judi Powers
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New Collaboration

The designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.

DeBeersICONS_TITLE1_CUSTOMCONTENT_1872x1052 (1).jpg
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural Diamonds

A Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.

Brilliant Earth Elizabeth Taylor jewelry
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3

Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.

Swarovski Joy: The Swarovski Musical Campaign with Ariana Grande
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign

“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.

Cartier bracelet and ring
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia Airport

A Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.

Pandora celestial chandelier earrings
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on Design

New collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.

NYC Jewelry Week Biolgems Jewelry Exhibition
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition Yet

The citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.

Lanessa Elrod
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New President

Lanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.

Replica of Infinity Gauntlet
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for Auction

A replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.

Arthur Klein
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89

Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.

Zadok Jewelers
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet Giveaway

To enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.

David Yurman Gem Awards Grant 2027 Graphic
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 Applications

The grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.

Kirstin Viland, Joanna Kovacs, Shari Lukacs
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship Winners

The winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.

Sothebys Romanov sapphire
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s Geneva

The rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.

Fake Audemars Piguet watch
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet Watches

It is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.

Jewelers of America new board members
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board

Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.

Kristi Yamaguchi Wearing Always Dream Collection
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ Collection

The jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.

2026 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards Best Of Winners
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum Awards

Spectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.

Edina Kiss Eye Pendants on Charm Necklace
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’

Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.

Alexis Hoopes
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising Officer

Alexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.

Rolex store exterior Bellevue Washington
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington State

The Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy