Bulgari, MB&F Launch Reimagined ‘Serpenti’ Watch
The brands immersed one of Bulgari’s most famous historical icons in MB&F’s ultra-mechanical universe of haute horlogerie.

Bulgari debuted the first Serpenti piece in 1948, evolving and reinventing the design over the years.
The “Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti” is the first contemporary genderless offering featuring the motif.
Its timely launch coincides with the Year of the Snake, the Chinese lunar calendar’s animal of the year for 2025.
The watch showcases a complex case modeled after a serpent’s head and is powered by a MB&F caliber.

The curves extend across the case metal, the five sapphire crystals, and the rear, each of which is treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The design provides large openings to view the movement.
Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, said the biomorphic design of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch posed “enormous challenges” in developing the case as well as the movement, which was conceived and developed in-house by MB&F.
“The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals, which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters,” Büsser said.
MB&F, which takes an innovative approach to watchmaking, describes its creations as “kinetic sculptures which tell time.”
The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti involved hundreds of sketches, dozens of 3D-printed models, and several iterations, according to designers.
One initial idea for the design was to animate the snake's eyes, a concept that materialized as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes.
The domes, created to be paper-thin and as light as possible, are machined from solid aluminum, requiring innovative milling processes. They also feature hand-applied Super-LumiNova, which allows the snake “eyes” to illuminate in the dark.
The “brain” of the snake is an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws which operates at 2.5 Hz. It is held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge that reads “Bulgari x MB&F.”
Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the watch.

On the other side is a power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the movement.
MB&F finishes its components by hand, a process that allows for limited crafting.
The watchmakers can only craft and assemble six to eight Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month. The total 99 pieces require more than a year to deliver.
The timepiece is available in three versions, each limited to 33 pieces.

The options include grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes; 18-karat rose gold case with green domes; and black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes.
In 2021, the companies released their first co-designed timepiece, the “MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra,” combining Bulgari’s colored gemstones and MB&F’s legacy machines.
The collaboration was the result of a chance encounter a few years earlier between Büsser and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bulgari.
Both car enthusiasts, the two were also inspired by automobile design when developing the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti.
The timepiece features elements reminiscent of sports car windows, wheels, and, in the movement, engine-like components, including a grille with the hexagonal scale motif seen on previous Serpenti creations.
Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari Group CEO, states “Watchmaking is all about innovation and desirability stemming from the magical fusion of superlative micromechanical expertise with unexpected yet stunning timeless designs."
Babin also said that brands must continue to innovate, especially in down-cycles and with leadership that is obsessed with progress, beauty, and strategic thinking that drives unexpected initiatives.
“Our collaboration is unique in the watch world because it bridges the two souls of our maisons and gives birth to a timeless treasure – a true collectible piece. The first-ever truly genderless Serpenti resonates with both contemporary gentlemen and ladies. It shows that superlative watchmaking can be generated by the unexpected pooling of talents like Max and Fabrizio,” said Babin.
Stigliani said the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti was a pleasure to design even while being technically challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision, he said.
“The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bulgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bulgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project,” said Stigliani.
The Latest

The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.

The champagne colorway in her newest “Ombré” collection combines white and trendy brown diamonds, a departure from her usual vibrant hues.

Kosann partnered with the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, to create a set of necklaces inspired by the artwork on samurai sword handguards.

The upcoming show provides savvy retailers with the opportunity to stock their cases with best sellers in advance of the holiday season.

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo face life in prison for the October 2024 murder of 72-year-old Detroit-area jeweler Hussein Murray.


The brand’s first high jewelry collection, “Tempest” plays with movement while calling to mind the folklore of the sea.

Proceeds from its jewelry raffle will go to a volunteer-run fire and rescue group in the Lightning Ridge area of New South Wales, Australia.

Stuller said the recipients embody the company’s core values, which include community participation and personal and professional growth.

The “Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster,” named for the British endurance swimmer who made it famous, will go up for sale next month.

Amit Pratihari was previously the managing director of De Beers India and Forevermark India.

Members of the Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California will gain access to expanded services, resources, and connections, DCWC said.

Gomez’s jewelry included Tiffany & Co. drop-style earrings while Blanco stacked diamonds from Jacob & Co. on his wrist.

Diamond industry banking veteran Paul De Wachter will take on the role in January 2026.

Taylor Swift flaunts an Elizabeth Taylor-esque gemstone in promo for her new album, “The Life of a Showgirl.”

Its “Quantre Sand” capsule was made using a 3D sand printing technique borrowed from the automotive and aeronautics industries.

Four individuals have been charged in the “takeover-style” robbery of Heller Jewelers last month, and additional charges are expected.

“Radiance and Reverie” will showcase more than 150 jewels from Lane’s personal collection by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and more.

The month’s birthstones, tourmaline and opal, complement the palette of autumn.

Smith shares the importance of looking at your company with openness and honesty to identify opportunities you may be missing.

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco visited Italy to spot jewelry trends at the September Vicenzaoro show and share her top finds.

Respondents were concerned about job availability and rising prices.

Its latest interim financials revealed a challenging first half due in part to production troubles at its mines.

Alexander Lacik has led Pandora since 2019. Berta de Pablos-Barbier will succeed him, the first woman to head the company.

Two men allegedly used counterfeit bills to purchase luxury watches and jewelry from a North Carolina jeweler.

The “Lovestruck” collection, designed with the Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings, is the brand’s first lab-grown diamond offering.

The brand, celebrating its 15th anniversary, has popped up at Market, a luxury fashion destination in Highland Park Village.