Watches

Bulgari, MB&F Launch Reimagined ‘Serpenti’ Watch

WatchesFeb 11, 2025

Bulgari, MB&F Launch Reimagined ‘Serpenti’ Watch

The brands immersed one of Bulgari’s most famous historical icons in MB&F’s ultra-mechanical universe of haute horlogerie.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch
For their second collaboration, Bulgari and independent Swiss watch brand MB&F have partnered to create the first contemporary, genderless offering featuring the jeweler’s “Serpenti” motif.
Dubai—Bulgari has teamed up with independent Swiss watch brand MB&F on a timepiece that reimagines the jeweler’s famous icon, “Serpenti.”

Bulgari debuted the first Serpenti piece in 1948, evolving and reinventing the design over the years.

The “Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti” is the first contemporary genderless offering featuring the motif.

Its timely launch coincides with the Year of the Snake, the Chinese lunar calendar’s animal of the year for 2025. 

The watch showcases a complex case modeled after a serpent’s head and is powered by a MB&F caliber.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch
The “Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti” watch features a curved design and a complex movement conceived and developed in-house by MB&F.


The curves extend across the case metal, the five sapphire crystals, and the rear, each of which is treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The design provides large openings to view the movement.  

Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F, said the biomorphic design of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch posed “enormous challenges” in developing the case as well as the movement, which was conceived and developed in-house by MB&F. 

“The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals, which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters,” Büsser said. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

MB&F, which takes an innovative approach to watchmaking, describes its creations as “kinetic sculptures which tell time.” 

The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti involved hundreds of sketches, dozens of 3D-printed models, and several iterations, according to designers.

One initial idea for the design was to animate the snake's eyes, a concept that materialized as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. 

The domes, created to be paper-thin and as light as possible, are machined from solid aluminum, requiring innovative milling processes. They also feature hand-applied Super-LumiNova, which allows the snake “eyes” to illuminate in the dark.

The “brain” of the snake is an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws which operates at 2.5 Hz. It is held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge that reads “Bulgari x MB&F.”

Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the watch.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti Ref. 104139
The “Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti” Ref. 104047 features a grade 5 titanium case with blue domes on a hand-stitched blue rubber strap.


On the other side is a power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the movement.

MB&F finishes its components by hand, a process that allows for limited crafting.

The watchmakers can only craft and assemble six to eight Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month. The total 99 pieces require more than a year to deliver.

The timepiece is available in three versions, each limited to 33 pieces.

Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti watch
The “Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti” watch is available in three versions.


The options include grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes; 18-karat rose gold case with green domes; and black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes. 


In 2021, the companies released their first co-designed timepiece, the “MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra,” combining Bulgari’s colored gemstones and MB&F’s legacy machines. 

The collaboration was the result of a chance encounter a few years earlier between Büsser and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bulgari. 

Both car enthusiasts, the two were also inspired by automobile design when developing the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti. 

The timepiece features elements reminiscent of sports car windows, wheels, and, in the movement, engine-like components, including a grille with the hexagonal scale motif seen on previous Serpenti creations. 

Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari Group CEO, states “Watchmaking is all about innovation and desirability stemming from the magical fusion of superlative micromechanical expertise with unexpected yet stunning timeless designs."

Babin also said that brands must continue to innovate, especially in down-cycles and with leadership that is obsessed with progress, beauty, and strategic thinking that drives unexpected initiatives. 

“Our collaboration is unique in the watch world because it bridges the two souls of our maisons and gives birth to a timeless treasure – a true collectible piece. The first-ever truly genderless Serpenti resonates with both contemporary gentlemen and ladies. It shows that superlative watchmaking can be generated by the unexpected pooling of talents like Max and Fabrizio,” said Babin. 

Stigliani said the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti was a pleasure to design even while being technically challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision, he said. 

“The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bulgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bulgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project,” said Stigliani. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.
tags:

The Latest

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingMay 09, 2025
Gemfields Resumes Emerald Mining in Zambia

The miner announced plans to recommence open-pit mining at Kagem.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
2025 Met Gala jewelry
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry Moments

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest Auction

Its commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

Harwell Godfrey Met Gala brooch with Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready Brooch

Designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 for 2025
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ List

Expanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.

Sissys Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New Store

Located in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.

Gunderson’s Jewelers
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV Series

The episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.

Zadok Jewelers Austin store
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in Austin

The Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.

Nancy Astor Cartier turquoise and diamond tiara
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to Auction

The turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.

David DeCook Crater of Diamonds State Park 3.81-carat brown Duke Diamond
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond

“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.

Kraft Mac & Cheese x Ring Concierge Forever Macaroni Necklace
TrendsMay 02, 2025
Ring Concierge, Kraft Partner on Mother’s Day Macaroni Necklace

The childhood craft of making dried pasta necklaces for Mother’s Day is all grown up as the 14-karat gold “Forever Macaroni” necklace.

Angely Martinez emerald Promise ring
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise Ring

Set with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.

Stuller 2025-2026 bridal catalog
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here

“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.

Americut Gems
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple Effect

Though currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.

Exterior of new David Yurman store in the Miami Design District
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship Store

Located in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy