Lab-GrownApr 11, 2024
AGTA Bans Lab-Grown Diamonds, Gemstones at GemFairLab-GrownJun 03, 2024
De Beers Will Quit Growing Diamonds for Jewelry
The company is pivoting production at its factory in Oregon to industrial diamonds, while the future of Lightbox remains unclear.
The exterior of De Beers Group’s diamond factory in Gresham, Oregon. The company announced last week that it is transitioning production at the facility from diamonds for jewelry to diamonds for industrial and technology uses. CEO Al Cook said the exterior of the factory, which currently reads “Lightbox,” will eventually be rebranded.
Las Vegas—De Beers Group announced late last week that it will be suspending production of diamonds for jewelry at its Lightbox factory in Gresham, Oregon, pivoting instead to industrial diamonds for technology applications.
The company made the announcement Friday, in the midst of the Las Vegas jewelry trade shows.
The lab-grown pivot is part of a broader new strategy called “Origins,” which is designed to grow desire for natural diamonds while cutting costs.
In an interview with National Jeweler on Friday, De Beers CEO Al Cook elaborated on the decision, including on the future of Lightbox, the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand De Beers launched six years ago.
“Element Six used to produce diamonds because they were hard and they could be used industrially,” he said. “Now, with the price of synthetic diamonds coming down, it opens up this amazing set of technological activities. We’re in partnership with ... a number of high-tech companies looking at how you use diamonds as components in the digital era.
“That bit for us is really exciting. And that’s where the future of synthetic diamonds lies for us.”
Despite the transition at the factory, Cook said Lightbox will continue as a brand, drawing upon existing stock for the immediate future.
“At the moment, we’ve got a lot of stones available to Lightbox. Production will continue for a few months to ensure that they’ve got a stock of beautiful lab-grown diamond stones they can sell.”
After Lightbox depletes its existing stock, “we’ll see where the brand goes and we’ll see what happens,” Cook said. “I think it’s too early to say.”
Related stories will be right here …
The company made the announcement Friday, in the midst of the Las Vegas jewelry trade shows.
The lab-grown pivot is part of a broader new strategy called “Origins,” which is designed to grow desire for natural diamonds while cutting costs.
In an interview with National Jeweler on Friday, De Beers CEO Al Cook elaborated on the decision, including on the future of Lightbox, the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand De Beers launched six years ago.
“Element Six used to produce diamonds because they were hard and they could be used industrially,” he said. “Now, with the price of synthetic diamonds coming down, it opens up this amazing set of technological activities. We’re in partnership with ... a number of high-tech companies looking at how you use diamonds as components in the digital era.
“That bit for us is really exciting. And that’s where the future of synthetic diamonds lies for us.”
Despite the transition at the factory, Cook said Lightbox will continue as a brand, drawing upon existing stock for the immediate future.
“At the moment, we’ve got a lot of stones available to Lightbox. Production will continue for a few months to ensure that they’ve got a stock of beautiful lab-grown diamond stones they can sell.”
After Lightbox depletes its existing stock, “we’ll see where the brand goes and we’ll see what happens,” Cook said. “I think it’s too early to say.”
De Beers announced the launch of the Lightbox lab-grown diamond brand during the Las Vegas shows in 2018.
At first, De Beers was growing the diamonds for Lightbox at its Element Six facility in the United Kingdom.
In October 2020, it opened its $94 million Lightbox factory in Gresham, a Portland suburb.
In an attempt to control the direction of the lab-grown diamond market, De Beers set an $800/carat price structure for the line.
It also marketed Lightbox as jewelry for less-special special occasions, like Sweet 16s or graduations, not milestones like engagements or anniversaries, which, it posits, should be celebrated with natural diamonds.
Since the line’s launch six years ago, lab-grown diamond prices have dropped precipitously. Lightbox cut its prices by as much as 40 percent last month.
Cook said De Beers expects the trend to continue.
“For a lot of retailers out there, the incentive to sell natural [diamonds] and the incentive to sell lab-grown are reversed. There was a period of time, a year-plus ago, when retailers got more of a margin sometimes from selling lab-grown diamonds.
“They were cheap to manufacture, and they could be sold as near-equivalents to natural diamonds. We didn’t do that in De Beers Group. We made very clear through Lightbox that these were two entirely different propositions,” he said.
“Not everyone followed our approach. It is now very clear that for all the retailers I can speak to here at JCK, the margin you get by selling a natural diamond is far greater than the margin that you get by selling a lab-grown diamond. It’s also clear that the gap is going to grow rather than shrink. We expect the price of lab-grown diamonds to go down and down, to continue collapsing.”
As it transitions production at the Lightbox factory in Gresham, De Beers announced Friday that it also will be consolidating its Element Six chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamond-growing facilities, going from three factories to the one factory in Oregon.
More on Lab-Grown
The Latest
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy AgainThe jewelry and accessories retailer said its stores will remain open during the proceedings.
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ CollectionDesigner Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.
Weekly QuizJul 31, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami JewelerOmar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane KatrinaThe New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of CoverageLilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship WinnersThe organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging DesignersThe winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright BaublesAs summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.
CrimeAug 04, 2025
‘The Watch King’ Assaulted, Robbed in QueensMoshe Haimoff, a social media personality and 47th Street retailer, was robbed of $559,000 worth of jewelry by men in construction outfits.
MajorsAug 04, 2025
Borsheims Welcomes New Assistant Facilities ManagerXavier Dibbrell brings more than a decade of experience to the role.
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Helzberg President Julie Yoakum Moves Over to Signet JewelersThe addition of Yoakum, who will lead Kay and Peoples, was one of three executive appointments Signet announced Thursday.
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names Mike Alexander as President The insurance company’s previous president and CEO, Scott Murphy, has split his role and will continue as CEO.
SourcingAug 01, 2025
Gemfields’ Auction Revenue Drops 50% in H1The nearly six-month pause of operations at its Kagem emerald mine earlier this year impacted the miner’s first-half results.
CollectionsAug 01, 2025
Piece of the Week: Hernsdorf’s ‘Tears of Aphrodite’ NecklaceThe necklace uses spinel drops to immortalize the moment Aphrodite’s tears mixed with her lover Adonis’ blood after he was fatally wounded.
SourcingJul 31, 2025
De Beers Records $189M First-Half Loss The diamond miner and marketer warned last week that it expected to be in the red after significantly cutting prices in Q2.
Events & AwardsJul 31, 2025
These Are the 2025 CASE Award WinnersJewelers of America’s 35th annual design contest recognized creativity, artistry, style, and excellence.
IndependentsJul 31, 2025
Matthew Tratner Takes Over as CBG President Tratner succeeds Andie Weinman, who will begin stepping back from the buying group’s day-to-day operations.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2025
Tariff on India Will Be 25%, Trump Says The president made the announcement via Truth Social Wednesday, adding that India also will face a penalty for its dealings with Russia.
FinancialsJul 30, 2025
Kering's Jewelry Brands Resilient As H1 Sales Slide 16%The luxury titan’s star brand Gucci continued to struggle amid a "tough" environment.
WatchesJul 30, 2025
Peek Inside Zadok Jewelers’ New Rolex Showroom in AustinIts opening marks the completion of the retailer’s new 11,000-square-foot store in the Texas capital.
SurveysJul 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in JulyRespondents shared concerns about tariffs and commentary on the “Big Beautiful Bill.”
SourcingJul 30, 2025
Rob Bates to Release Latest Book in His ‘Diamond District Mystery’ Series“Making a Killing in Diamonds” tells the story of Mimi Rosen, the disappearance of a scientist, and the murder of lab-grown diamond CEO.
EditorsJul 29, 2025
Out & About: Visiting Tacori’s Design Studio in LASenior Editor Lenore Fedow learned a lot when she took a behind-the-scenes factory tour with the jewelry brand earlier this year.
