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Pomellato’s High Jewelry Brings Milanese Inspiration to Paris
The house’s fourth haute joaillerie collection coincides with creative director Vincenzo Castaldo’s 20th anniversary.
“Urban Bloom” choker and bracelet in rose gold with diamonds and pink and purple sapphires
Paris—During the haute joaillerie presentations this week in Paris, Pomellato imported some Milanese flavor.
The Milan-based jewelry house’s fourth high jewelry collection coincided with Creative Director Vincenzo Castaldo’s 20th anniversary with the brand. It was Castaldo who led Pomellato into the high jewelry arena in 2020.
“Since 1967 Pomellato dared to unite tradition and innovation, diamonds with color gemstones, goldsmithing expertise with experimentation. But always with one unchangeable rule: make it by hand, with passion and devotion,” he remarked.
Castaldo used Pomellato’s home base—Milan—as inspiration for the 2023 high jewelry offerings, which were grouped into four sub-collections: “Vertical Landscapes,” “Contemporary Heritage,” “Creativity on Stage,” and “Terrazza Duomo.”
“I am fascinated with the rigor of Milan’s architecture, capable of revealing interiors of rare beauty and its capacity to change, where historical buildings co-exist alongside architecture that looks to the future,” he said.
Vertical Landscapes
Skyline necklace in rose gold with spinels and diamonds
Skyline earrings in rose gold with spinels and diamonds
Giardini Verticali necklace in rose and white gold with tourmalines and diamonds
Giardini Verticali earrings in rose gold with diamonds, tourmalines, and tanzanite
Nudo Cascade necklace in white and yellow gold with diamonds and gray moonstones
Triennale ring in rose and white gold with diamond and tanzanite
Urban Bloom bracelet in rose gold with diamonds and pink and purple sapphires
Inspired by the Milanese cityscapes punctuated with urban high rises, Vertical Landscapes uses drop-style jewelry to express the architectural lines of buildings such as the Rationalist skyscraper Torre Velasca.
The “Skyline” necklace, for example, uses 128 spinels ranging from red to pink to gray to evoke an urban landscape in miniature during sunset. Matching spinel earrings transition from red to purple.
The “Giardini Verticali” earrings similarly use tourmalines and tanzanites reverse-set in titanium as colorful building blocks to create dynamic proportions.
Pomellato also reimagined its classic “Nudo” collection through a vertical lens, crafting the “Nudo Cascade” necklace through gray moonstone drops descended from an elaborate, graphic chain.
Contemporary Heritage
The Castello choker with removable chain in rose and white gold with rubellite and diamonds
Castello earrings in tanzanite
Castello ring in rose and white gold with rubellite and diamonds
Dama bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds
A choker from the house’s archives circa 1972 inspired the nine pieces that make up Contemporary Heritage, as well as Milan’s medieval Castello Sforzesco.
The “Castello” necklace is what Pomellato calls “neo-Medieval,” featuring rose gold “plaques” connected by diamond-encrusted links.
Featuring more than 28 carats of baguette-, princess-, and round brilliant-cut diamonds and five rubellites weighing more than 29 carats, the design’s angles are an ode to the Castello’s stone masonry.
A removable rose gold and diamond chain ups the drama. The necklace is complemented by two pairs of earrings and two rings.
The “Fortezza” choker and matching earrings are a spin on the Castello pieces with black ceramic, malachite, emeralds, and brown diamond pavé.
Creativity on Stage
Catena Milano lariat chain necklace in rose and white gold with diamonds
Lirica necklace in rose and white gold with diamonds
Sipario body chain in rose and white gold with diamonds
Chains are the focus of Creativity on Stage. The sub-collection’s name is an allusion to the La Scala Theater.
Each of the three necklaces delivers in terms of drama. The “Lirica” necklace is an asymmetric design with links of different sizes meant to move and fall like the theater’s curtains.
The “Sipario” body chain-necklace mixes chain styles and different diamond cuts to drape the torso, wile the “Catena Milano” rose-gold rope mesh chain lariat offers multiple ways of wear.
Terrazza Duomo
Terrazza Duomo bracelets in white and rose gold with diamonds
Terrazza Duomo choker with fancy-cut diamonds
Terrazza Duomo white gold earrings with diamonds
Terrazza Duomo yellow gold earrings with diamonds
Terrazza Duomo yellow gold earrings with diamonds
Terrazza Duomo white gold earrings with diamonds
Finally, Terrazza Duomo is an ode to Milan’s famous cathedral.
Pomellato deconstructed the façade into geometric shapes that are the foundation of four lightweight pairs of earrings, two bracelets, and one choker.
Earrings are arranged like mobiles. Adorned with pave diamonds, they move with the wearer and are designed to be worn as a pair or as singles.
Some styles also feature clusters of fancy-shaped diamonds, including bangles with their asymmetric stone arrangements.
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