Trends

Take a Peek at Couture’s Newest Design Talents

TrendsJun 02, 2023

Take a Peek at Couture’s Newest Design Talents

This year’s Design Atelier is full of gems.

Alexandra Rosier gold and opal Eternal Love Hands necklace
Alexandra Rosier 18-karat yellow gold “Eternal Love Hands” necklace with 6.7 carats of opals, 0.58 carats of sapphires, 0.5 carats of diamonds, and 0.08 carats of tsavorite garnet ($37,007)
Las Vegas—No matter how many Couture shows one has attended, there’s no denying the rush that comes with discovering a new-to-you brand.

The Design Atelier (DA) is dedicated to that treasure hunt, hosting emerging jewelry designers for up to three years.

Just getting in, and earning the Couture stamp of approval, is a major boost for up-and-comers in itself, though the real draw is the retailer and fellow designer relationships formed.

Browse a selection of jewels from some of the industry’s most exciting new voices who are exhibiting in the Design Atelier this year.



Alexia Gryllaki 18-karat gold earrings with round brilliant-, princess-, baguette-, and triangle-cut diamonds weighing a total 2.4 carats
Alexia Gryllaki 18-karat gold earrings with round brilliant-, princess-, baguette-, and triangle-cut diamonds weighing a total 2.4 carats ($17,200)

From DA newcomer Alexia Gryllaki attendees will experience the “Onna” collection, combining Western and Eastern influences.

From Japanese art and philosophy, specifically, Gryllaki’s statement jewels draws upon objects’ symbolism and spiritual essence that flows from item to wearer.



Artemer “Sphere Ring” in 18-karat gold with tapered baguettes in various colors
Artemer “Sphere Ring” in 18-karat gold with tapered baguettes in various colors ($5,400)

Israel-based brand Artemer eschews the rules of traditional diamond jewelry in favor of the unique and unexpected.

A specialist in engagement rings, Artemer will showcase one-of-a-kind rings and highlights from five different collections at its first Couture show.



Eden Presley “Rock Candy” earrings in 14-karat yellow gold with 19.59 carats of tourmalines and 0.29 carats of diamonds
Eden Presley “Rock Candy” earrings in 14-karat yellow gold with 19.59 carats of tourmalines and 0.29 carats of diamonds ($8,995)

Known for her positive mantra chains and bangles, Eden Presley designer Gwen Myers is queen of good-vibe jewelry.

Right now, she’s particularly attuned to tourmaline’s energy, noting her “never-ending love affair” with the material.

For her first Couture, she’ll unveil the new “Rock Candy” collection consisting of one-of-a-kind jewels that showcase tourmaline’s wide range of shades. 



Elior New York “Large Bypass Pill Cuff” in 18-karat yellow gold with 1.1 carats of white diamonds
Elior New York “Large Bypass Pill Cuff” in 18-karat yellow gold with 1.1 carats of white diamonds ($17,600)

A few days in Vegas can leave anyone with a headache. Luckily, Elior New York has found a cure for jewelry trade show exhaustion.

The brand’s playful pill motif adorning pendants, earrings, bracelets, and rings proves good accessories are the best medicine.



Gemella Jewels “Queen B Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 5.9 carats of pink sapphire, 3.05 carats of rubellite, and 10.4 carats of pink tourmaline
Gemella Jewels “Queen B Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 5.9 carats of pink sapphire, 3.05 carats of rubellite, and 10.4 carats of pink tourmaline (price available upon request)

Gemella Jewels is upping the ante with its best-selling motifs this year.

A prime example is the above necklace, which elevates the company’s signature heart made from two pear-shaped stones.



Kloto 18-karat yellow gold earrings with 0.2 carats of diamonds
Kloto 18-karat yellow gold earrings with 0.2 carats of diamonds ($5,860)

The remains of a temple in the ancient hilltop settlement Mardin, the Turkish town where her grandmother grew up, informed Kloto designer Senem Gençoğlu’s current collection.

Gençoğlu translates the temple’s stone slabs into tactile forms adorning pendants, hoop earrings, and rings.

The designer’s preferred color palette is a mix of yellow gold and silver, with the occasional white diamond sprinkled in.



Lunar Rain “Wise Owl Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 2.38 carats of dendritic agate and sapphire
Lunar Rain “Wise Owl Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 2.38 carats of dendritic agate and sapphire ($6,670)

Lunar Rain’s “Earthly Delights” collection imagines animals in gold and gemstones.

Intricate metalwork and stones with unique inclusions, such as dendritic agate, comprise whales, owls, giraffes, and other creatures. Look out for designer Melissa Chen’s new colorful enamel additions.



M. Spalten “Lady Oval Necklace” in 14-karat yellow gold with 14.78 carats of tourmaline and 1.54 carats of pink sapphire
M. Spalten “Lady Oval Necklace” in 14-karat yellow gold with 14.78 carats of tourmaline and 1.54 carats of pink sapphire ($11,000)

For M. Spalten designer Melissa Spalten, colored gemstones are her paintbrush.

Her art is in the way she selects and arranges each specimen, creating joyful color stories. At Couture, she’ll showcase her latest one-of-a-kind, gemmy designs.



Maison Alix Dumas “Leaves” earrings in recycled 18-karat yellow gold and anodized titanium with sapphire and tsavorites
Maison Alix Dumas “Leaves” earrings in recycled 18-karat yellow gold and anodized titanium with sapphire and tsavorites ($25,600)

New-to-Couture Alix Dumas of Maison Alix Dumas considers herself equal parts artist and jewelry designer.

At the show, see Dumas’ “dreamlike” depictions of natural elements, like flowers and leaves. Materials like anodized titanium help contribute to the jewels’ surreal effect. 



Maria Kotsoni Three Pointed Star ear cuff in 18-karat yellow gold with 0.53 carats of white diamonds
Maria Kotsoni “Three Pointed Star” ear cuff in 18-karat yellow gold with 0.53 carats of white diamonds ($4,240)

For Maria Kotsoni’s entrance to the world of Couture, the brand will showcase diverse works from across several collections, ranging from organic to clean cut.

When worn, the designer’s daring, architectural shapes are natural statement pieces.



Mason and Books Folded Chiffon Cigar Band in 14-karat yellow gold and diamond
Mason and Books “Folded Chiffon Cigar Band” in 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ($3,490)

One of Mason and Books’ first pieces was a bow ring. Designer Jamie Books considers the symbol synonymous with her daughter, who has worn the accessory since infanthood.

The motif’s natural progression is Mason and Books new “Chiffon” collection, in which ribbon-like gold forms wrap around the body.



Meredith Young “Nebula Ring” in 18-karat gold with a princess-cut diamond set in Australian boulder opal
Meredith Young “Nebula Ring” in 18-karat gold with a princess-cut diamond set in Australian boulder opal (price available upon request)

Meredith Young will take visitors to outer space with her new “Supernova” collection launching at the show, inspired by star formation.

Opals, reminiscent of their own miniature galaxies, are center stage in the newness, which also features ombre enamel.



NeverNot “City of Light” necklace in 14-karat yellow gold with opal and sapphire pavé on a 20-inch chain
NeverNot “City of Light” necklace in 14-karat yellow gold with opal and sapphire pavé on a 20-inch chain ($9,900)

NeverNot’s new “Travel” collection will make its U.S. debut at Couture, and it couldn’t be more appropriate.

Elaborate inlay pendants depicting suitcases are a love letter to the summer vacation. The brand will unveil two new variants.



Onirikka earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with enamel, diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorites
Onirikka earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with enamel, diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorites ($4,950)

Onirikka designer Gloria Batlle continues to mine her childhood in the tropics for inspiration for her latest creations.

Nature-inspired motifs like flowers, parrots, and the brand’s beloved frog sit aside dangling gold jewels with movement.



Prounis “Woods Cuff” in reclaimed black walnut with 22-karat gold and emerald
Prounis “Woods Cuff” in reclaimed black walnut with 22-karat gold and emerald ($36,000)

New materials like amber, jasper, and reclaimed wood have taken hold of Prounis designer Jean Prounis’ imagination.

Prounis’ latest designs also expand into different techniques like intaglio carving, which bolsters the brand’s ancient feel.



Rainbow K “Erin” ring in 18-karat yellow and with gold with 0.74 carats of pear-shaped diamonds
Rainbow K “Erin” ring in 18-karat yellow and with gold with 0.74 carats of pear-shaped diamonds ($9,225)

Rainbow K got its start with vintage-inspired classics but has found its niche in a more modern and edgy sensibility.

At the DA, the Parisian brand will unveil its latest utilitarian-feeling hoop earrings, rings, and bangles, including new necklaces and bracelets strung from bright cords.



Renna “Tawaret” pendant  in 18-karat yellow gold set with lapis, turquoise, and diamonds ($15,000)
Renna “Tawaret” pendant in 18-karat yellow gold set with lapis, turquoise, and diamonds ($15,000)

Renna’s collection is a love letter to the ocean, but designer Renna Brown Taher is also exploring new sources of inspiration at Couture.

The designer looked to Egypt for her new “Tawaret” pendant, depicting the ancient Egyptian deity thought to ensure one’s fertility and provide protection during childbirth.



Sophie Theakston “Expectation” cuff in 18-karat gold with diamonds
Sophie Theakston “Expectation” cuff in 18-karat gold with diamonds ($13,815)

According to Sophie Theakston, the cuff is one of the most powerful pieces of jewelry one can wear, often a symbol of authority in antiquity worn by both men and women.

Theakston is particular about her gold alloy, creating just the right 18-karat “soft” yellow that “allows the natural patina to shine through,” she said.

The above cuff is engraved with symbols that are a nod to the painter Gustav Klimt.



State Property “Borsh Discus” ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a 1.85-carat emerald, 1.87 carats of diamonds, and black onyx
State Property “Borsh Discus” ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a 1.85-carat emerald, 1.87 carats of diamonds, and black onyx ($11,900)

The “Borsh” collection is an addition to State Property’s overall “Arcane” range, inspired by the Byzantine era. Borsh’s triangular elements reference motifs in Byzantine architecture.

Plenty of graphic, gender-less designs await at the State Property booth.



A rendering of a ring from Tariq Riaz’s “Duality” collection in 18-karat gold with emerald and ruby
A rendering of a ring from Tariq Riaz’s “Duality” collection in 18-karat gold with emerald and ruby (price available upon request); Tariq Riaz will debut at the DA.

According to brand Tariq Riaz, which excels in innovative engineering, the new “Duality” collection launching at Couture must be experienced in person.

By twisting the patented designs rendered in 18-karat gold, diamonds and natural color-changing stones, gems transition from one color to another.



Walters Faith black sterling silver coil link bracelet
Walters Faith black sterling silver coil link bracelet ($950)

Walters Faith has been designing luxurious jewelry essentials for a decade, but there’s one demographic the company feels it’s neglected.

To rectify that, Walters Faith is debuting the “Huxley” collection, geared toward men and crafted in 18-karat rose gold, rhodium-plated gold, black diamonds, onyx, and spinel.



Alexandra Rosier 18-karat yellow gold Eternal Love Hands necklace with 6.7 carats of opals, 0.58 carats of sapphires, 0.5 carats of diamonds, and 0.08 carats of tsavorite garnet
Alexandra Rosier 18-karat yellow gold “Eternal Love Hands” necklace with 6.7 carats of opals, 0.58 carats of sapphires, 0.5 carats of diamonds, and 0.08 carats of tsavorite garnet ($37,007)

The intricate “Eternal Hands” pendant is a miniature version of a molding of the designer Alexandra Rosier’s own hands. 

The design is rife with symbols, one hand representing masculine energy and the other feminine. 

Palmistry lines are rendered in rainbow sapphires. Together, the hands form one union, representing the disparate forces that create a whole. 

“Eternal Hands” is up for a Couture Design Award. See the rest of Rosier’s work at her booth in the DA. 

 Related stories will be right here …

The Latest

Windsor Jewelry in Indianapolis, Indiana
IndependentsFeb 06, 2025
106-Year-Old Jewelry Store Saved by New Owners

Two attorneys purchased Windsor Jewelry, which was set to close, and will retain all existing staff at the downtown Indianapolis store.

Two images of Adam Heyman in Sri Lanka
MajorsFeb 06, 2025
Oscar Heyman Employee Celebrates 60 Years With the Company

Adam Heyman joined the family business in 1965, just weeks after graduating from Columbia Business School.

De Beers Jewellers Embrace Bracelet
CollectionsFeb 06, 2025
De Beers Jewellers’ New High Jewelry Pays Homage to the Beauty of Trees

The “Essence of Nature, Chapter One” collection echoes trees and roots, literally and figuratively, through three sets of high jewelry.

Top Image.png
Brought to you by
3 Ways to Capitalize on America’s Newfound Love of Colored Gems

Colored stones are stepping into a jewelry spotlight typically reserved for diamonds—are you ready to sell color?

Hamilton Jewelers Worth Avenue interior
IndependentsFeb 06, 2025
Hamilton Jewelers Revamps Palm Beach Boutique

The fourth-generation, family-owned jeweler has given its Worth Avenue store a new look.

Weekly QuizFeb 06, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of a gavel
CrimeFeb 05, 2025
‘The Timepiece Gentleman’ Sentenced to 5-Plus Years Behind Bars

Luxury watch dealer Anthony Farrer pleaded guilty late last year to defrauding clients in a scheme with Ponzi-type elements.

Pandora sparkling bow necklace
FinancialsFeb 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Double-Digit Growth After Strong Holiday Season

In its full-year results, the retailer shared its 2025 outlook and an update on the global rollout of its lab-grown diamond collection.

Resolutions - 2025.jpg
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers

The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.

Diamond Council of America logo
MajorsFeb 05, 2025
DCA Promotes Kristen Scheetz to Director of Education, Membership

Scheetz has been with the nonprofit since 2007.

Trucks at the Orapa diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingFeb 04, 2025
New Deal With Botswana Is Done, De Beers Confirms

The agreement will allocate an increasing proportion of the country’s rough diamonds to the government of Botswana over the next decade.

Van Clef & Arpels Diane (Diana) Clip
Events & AwardsFeb 04, 2025
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Astronomy-Inspired Jewelry to Land at AMNH

“Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry From the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels,” opens April 11 at the American Museum of Natural History.

Chocolate box ring by Mined + Found
SurveysFeb 04, 2025
Valentine’s Day Jewelry Spending Forecast to Hit Record High, Says NRF

Those celebrating Valentine’s Day this year are expected to spend a record $27.5 billion on jewels, flowers, candy, and more.

Lady Gaga Tiffany & Co.  necklace worn to the 2025 Grammys
EditorsFeb 03, 2025
Best Jewelry Moments From the 2025 Grammy Awards

From Lady Gaga’s 1930s Tiffany & Co. necklace to Taylor Swift’s “T,” Michelle Graff recaps the night’s most memorable jewelry looks.

HSN+ QVC+ logos on a television, laptop, and phone screen
MajorsFeb 03, 2025
Qurate to Close HSN’s Florida HQ Amid Restructuring

Layoffs will reportedly start next month as HSN plans to move into QVC’s location in Pennsylvania.

Jewelry designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey looking at colored gemstones
EditorsFeb 03, 2025
Q&A: 5 Jewelry Designers on Shopping the 2025 Tucson Gem Shows

A group of creatives talked to Associate Editor Lauren McLemore about their approach to the annual Tucson gem, mineral, and fossil shows.

Elizabeth Taylor diamond bracelet
AuctionsJan 31, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Bracelet Outshines Estimate at U.K. Auction

The auction also featured the sale of a Cartier necklace made when Egyptomania was sweeping Great Britain.

Lalaounis Blossom Rosette charm
CollectionsJan 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: Lalaounis’ Good Luck Charm for 2025

The “Blossom Rosette” blooms with love, beauty, and hope for the year ahead.

Harvey Rovinsky, former owner of Bernie Robbins Jewelers
IndependentsJan 31, 2025
Harvey Rovinsky, Longtime Owner of Bernie Robbins Jewelers, Dies at 77

Rovinsky is remembered as a great mentor who made the employees of his stores feel like family.

Three diamonds in a row
Events & AwardsJan 31, 2025
Facets of Fire Has a Diamond Challenge for Retailers

For every jeweler who tries their luck, the company will make a donation to Jewelers for Children.

Women’s Jewelry Association logo
MajorsJan 30, 2025
WJA Chapter Leaders Resign as Fallout From DEI Remarks Snowballs

The boards of at least five chapters have resigned in response to controversial statements the WJA national board president made last month.

Jewelry writer and curator Melanie Grant
Policies & IssuesJan 30, 2025
RJC Executive Director Melanie Grant Is Stepping Down

An experienced jewelry writer and curator, Grant led the organization for two years.

Pharrell Williams and Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams Tahitian Pearl Necklace
CollectionsJan 30, 2025
Pharrell Williams Brings Tahitian Pearls to His New Tiffany & Co. Collection

Five new designs were added, all donning Tahitian cultured pearls and spear-like trident motifs, along with the new “Titan” setting.

Converge 2025 logo
Events & AwardsJan 30, 2025
Registration Open for Converge 2025

The inaugural event is being co-hosted by the American Gem Society and the Gemological Institute of America.

Annie Doresca, Jake Duneier, John W. Ford Sr., Margot Grinberg, and Ivette Stephanopoulos
MajorsJan 30, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York Elects 5 New Members

Jewelers of America’s Annie Doresca and AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. are among the new members.

Boucheron Scarabée Rhinocéros ring/brooch and Chardon necklace
CollectionsJan 29, 2025
Boucheron’s High Jewelry Takes the Form of ‘Untamed Nature’

The jeweler’s latest high jewelry collection looks into the Boucheron archives to create a “living encyclopedia of high jewelry.”

Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Bone Cuff
FinancialsJan 29, 2025
LVMH Watch, Jewelry Sales End the Year Down

Watch and jewelry sales slipped 3 percent in 2024, though the luxury conglomerate did see business pick up in the fourth quarter.

Olivier Kessler-Gay
MajorsJan 29, 2025
Chanel Names New General Manager of Watches, Fine Jewelry for US

Olivier Kessler-Gay will take over the role on March 3.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy