Trends

Take a Peek at Couture’s Newest Design Talents

TrendsJun 02, 2023

Take a Peek at Couture’s Newest Design Talents

This year’s Design Atelier is full of gems.

Alexandra Rosier gold and opal Eternal Love Hands necklace
Alexandra Rosier 18-karat yellow gold “Eternal Love Hands” necklace with 6.7 carats of opals, 0.58 carats of sapphires, 0.5 carats of diamonds, and 0.08 carats of tsavorite garnet ($37,007)
Las Vegas—No matter how many Couture shows one has attended, there’s no denying the rush that comes with discovering a new-to-you brand.

The Design Atelier (DA) is dedicated to that treasure hunt, hosting emerging jewelry designers for up to three years.

Just getting in, and earning the Couture stamp of approval, is a major boost for up-and-comers in itself, though the real draw is the retailer and fellow designer relationships formed.

Browse a selection of jewels from some of the industry’s most exciting new voices who are exhibiting in the Design Atelier this year.



Alexia Gryllaki 18-karat gold earrings with round brilliant-, princess-, baguette-, and triangle-cut diamonds weighing a total 2.4 carats
Alexia Gryllaki 18-karat gold earrings with round brilliant-, princess-, baguette-, and triangle-cut diamonds weighing a total 2.4 carats ($17,200)

From DA newcomer Alexia Gryllaki attendees will experience the “Onna” collection, combining Western and Eastern influences.

From Japanese art and philosophy, specifically, Gryllaki’s statement jewels draws upon objects’ symbolism and spiritual essence that flows from item to wearer.



Artemer “Sphere Ring” in 18-karat gold with tapered baguettes in various colors
Artemer “Sphere Ring” in 18-karat gold with tapered baguettes in various colors ($5,400)

Israel-based brand Artemer eschews the rules of traditional diamond jewelry in favor of the unique and unexpected.

A specialist in engagement rings, Artemer will showcase one-of-a-kind rings and highlights from five different collections at its first Couture show.



Eden Presley “Rock Candy” earrings in 14-karat yellow gold with 19.59 carats of tourmalines and 0.29 carats of diamonds
Eden Presley “Rock Candy” earrings in 14-karat yellow gold with 19.59 carats of tourmalines and 0.29 carats of diamonds ($8,995)

Known for her positive mantra chains and bangles, Eden Presley designer Gwen Myers is queen of good-vibe jewelry.

Right now, she’s particularly attuned to tourmaline’s energy, noting her “never-ending love affair” with the material.

For her first Couture, she’ll unveil the new “Rock Candy” collection consisting of one-of-a-kind jewels that showcase tourmaline’s wide range of shades. 



Elior New York “Large Bypass Pill Cuff” in 18-karat yellow gold with 1.1 carats of white diamonds
Elior New York “Large Bypass Pill Cuff” in 18-karat yellow gold with 1.1 carats of white diamonds ($17,600)

A few days in Vegas can leave anyone with a headache. Luckily, Elior New York has found a cure for jewelry trade show exhaustion.

The brand’s playful pill motif adorning pendants, earrings, bracelets, and rings proves good accessories are the best medicine.



Gemella Jewels “Queen B Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 5.9 carats of pink sapphire, 3.05 carats of rubellite, and 10.4 carats of pink tourmaline
Gemella Jewels “Queen B Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 5.9 carats of pink sapphire, 3.05 carats of rubellite, and 10.4 carats of pink tourmaline (price available upon request)

Gemella Jewels is upping the ante with its best-selling motifs this year.

A prime example is the above necklace, which elevates the company’s signature heart made from two pear-shaped stones.



Kloto 18-karat yellow gold earrings with 0.2 carats of diamonds
Kloto 18-karat yellow gold earrings with 0.2 carats of diamonds ($5,860)

The remains of a temple in the ancient hilltop settlement Mardin, the Turkish town where her grandmother grew up, informed Kloto designer Senem Gençoğlu’s current collection.

Gençoğlu translates the temple’s stone slabs into tactile forms adorning pendants, hoop earrings, and rings.

The designer’s preferred color palette is a mix of yellow gold and silver, with the occasional white diamond sprinkled in.



Lunar Rain “Wise Owl Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 2.38 carats of dendritic agate and sapphire
Lunar Rain “Wise Owl Necklace” in 18-karat gold with 2.38 carats of dendritic agate and sapphire ($6,670)

Lunar Rain’s “Earthly Delights” collection imagines animals in gold and gemstones.

Intricate metalwork and stones with unique inclusions, such as dendritic agate, comprise whales, owls, giraffes, and other creatures. Look out for designer Melissa Chen’s new colorful enamel additions.



M. Spalten “Lady Oval Necklace” in 14-karat yellow gold with 14.78 carats of tourmaline and 1.54 carats of pink sapphire
M. Spalten “Lady Oval Necklace” in 14-karat yellow gold with 14.78 carats of tourmaline and 1.54 carats of pink sapphire ($11,000)

For M. Spalten designer Melissa Spalten, colored gemstones are her paintbrush.

Her art is in the way she selects and arranges each specimen, creating joyful color stories. At Couture, she’ll showcase her latest one-of-a-kind, gemmy designs.



Maison Alix Dumas “Leaves” earrings in recycled 18-karat yellow gold and anodized titanium with sapphire and tsavorites
Maison Alix Dumas “Leaves” earrings in recycled 18-karat yellow gold and anodized titanium with sapphire and tsavorites ($25,600)

New-to-Couture Alix Dumas of Maison Alix Dumas considers herself equal parts artist and jewelry designer.

At the show, see Dumas’ “dreamlike” depictions of natural elements, like flowers and leaves. Materials like anodized titanium help contribute to the jewels’ surreal effect. 



Maria Kotsoni Three Pointed Star ear cuff in 18-karat yellow gold with 0.53 carats of white diamonds
Maria Kotsoni “Three Pointed Star” ear cuff in 18-karat yellow gold with 0.53 carats of white diamonds ($4,240)

For Maria Kotsoni’s entrance to the world of Couture, the brand will showcase diverse works from across several collections, ranging from organic to clean cut.

When worn, the designer’s daring, architectural shapes are natural statement pieces.



Mason and Books Folded Chiffon Cigar Band in 14-karat yellow gold and diamond
Mason and Books “Folded Chiffon Cigar Band” in 14-karat yellow gold and diamond ($3,490)

One of Mason and Books’ first pieces was a bow ring. Designer Jamie Books considers the symbol synonymous with her daughter, who has worn the accessory since infanthood.

The motif’s natural progression is Mason and Books new “Chiffon” collection, in which ribbon-like gold forms wrap around the body.



Meredith Young “Nebula Ring” in 18-karat gold with a princess-cut diamond set in Australian boulder opal
Meredith Young “Nebula Ring” in 18-karat gold with a princess-cut diamond set in Australian boulder opal (price available upon request)

Meredith Young will take visitors to outer space with her new “Supernova” collection launching at the show, inspired by star formation.

Opals, reminiscent of their own miniature galaxies, are center stage in the newness, which also features ombre enamel.



NeverNot “City of Light” necklace in 14-karat yellow gold with opal and sapphire pavé on a 20-inch chain
NeverNot “City of Light” necklace in 14-karat yellow gold with opal and sapphire pavé on a 20-inch chain ($9,900)

NeverNot’s new “Travel” collection will make its U.S. debut at Couture, and it couldn’t be more appropriate.

Elaborate inlay pendants depicting suitcases are a love letter to the summer vacation. The brand will unveil two new variants.



Onirikka earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with enamel, diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorites
Onirikka earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with enamel, diamonds, sapphires, and tsavorites ($4,950)

Onirikka designer Gloria Batlle continues to mine her childhood in the tropics for inspiration for her latest creations.

Nature-inspired motifs like flowers, parrots, and the brand’s beloved frog sit aside dangling gold jewels with movement.



Prounis “Woods Cuff” in reclaimed black walnut with 22-karat gold and emerald
Prounis “Woods Cuff” in reclaimed black walnut with 22-karat gold and emerald ($36,000)

New materials like amber, jasper, and reclaimed wood have taken hold of Prounis designer Jean Prounis’ imagination.

Prounis’ latest designs also expand into different techniques like intaglio carving, which bolsters the brand’s ancient feel.



Rainbow K “Erin” ring in 18-karat yellow and with gold with 0.74 carats of pear-shaped diamonds
Rainbow K “Erin” ring in 18-karat yellow and with gold with 0.74 carats of pear-shaped diamonds ($9,225)

Rainbow K got its start with vintage-inspired classics but has found its niche in a more modern and edgy sensibility.

At the DA, the Parisian brand will unveil its latest utilitarian-feeling hoop earrings, rings, and bangles, including new necklaces and bracelets strung from bright cords.



Renna “Tawaret” pendant  in 18-karat yellow gold set with lapis, turquoise, and diamonds ($15,000)
Renna “Tawaret” pendant in 18-karat yellow gold set with lapis, turquoise, and diamonds ($15,000)

Renna’s collection is a love letter to the ocean, but designer Renna Brown Taher is also exploring new sources of inspiration at Couture.

The designer looked to Egypt for her new “Tawaret” pendant, depicting the ancient Egyptian deity thought to ensure one’s fertility and provide protection during childbirth.



Sophie Theakston “Expectation” cuff in 18-karat gold with diamonds
Sophie Theakston “Expectation” cuff in 18-karat gold with diamonds ($13,815)

According to Sophie Theakston, the cuff is one of the most powerful pieces of jewelry one can wear, often a symbol of authority in antiquity worn by both men and women.

Theakston is particular about her gold alloy, creating just the right 18-karat “soft” yellow that “allows the natural patina to shine through,” she said.

The above cuff is engraved with symbols that are a nod to the painter Gustav Klimt.



State Property “Borsh Discus” ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a 1.85-carat emerald, 1.87 carats of diamonds, and black onyx
State Property “Borsh Discus” ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a 1.85-carat emerald, 1.87 carats of diamonds, and black onyx ($11,900)

The “Borsh” collection is an addition to State Property’s overall “Arcane” range, inspired by the Byzantine era. Borsh’s triangular elements reference motifs in Byzantine architecture.

Plenty of graphic, gender-less designs await at the State Property booth.



A rendering of a ring from Tariq Riaz’s “Duality” collection in 18-karat gold with emerald and ruby
A rendering of a ring from Tariq Riaz’s “Duality” collection in 18-karat gold with emerald and ruby (price available upon request); Tariq Riaz will debut at the DA.

According to brand Tariq Riaz, which excels in innovative engineering, the new “Duality” collection launching at Couture must be experienced in person.

By twisting the patented designs rendered in 18-karat gold, diamonds and natural color-changing stones, gems transition from one color to another.



Walters Faith black sterling silver coil link bracelet
Walters Faith black sterling silver coil link bracelet ($950)

Walters Faith has been designing luxurious jewelry essentials for a decade, but there’s one demographic the company feels it’s neglected.

To rectify that, Walters Faith is debuting the “Huxley” collection, geared toward men and crafted in 18-karat rose gold, rhodium-plated gold, black diamonds, onyx, and spinel.



Alexandra Rosier 18-karat yellow gold Eternal Love Hands necklace with 6.7 carats of opals, 0.58 carats of sapphires, 0.5 carats of diamonds, and 0.08 carats of tsavorite garnet
Alexandra Rosier 18-karat yellow gold “Eternal Love Hands” necklace with 6.7 carats of opals, 0.58 carats of sapphires, 0.5 carats of diamonds, and 0.08 carats of tsavorite garnet ($37,007)

The intricate “Eternal Hands” pendant is a miniature version of a molding of the designer Alexandra Rosier’s own hands. 

The design is rife with symbols, one hand representing masculine energy and the other feminine. 

Palmistry lines are rendered in rainbow sapphires. Together, the hands form one union, representing the disparate forces that create a whole. 

“Eternal Hands” is up for a Couture Design Award. See the rest of Rosier’s work at her booth in the DA. 

 Related stories will be right here …

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