AuctionsAug 03, 2022
Elvis and Colonel Tom Parker’s ‘Lost’ Jewelry Coming to AuctionAuctionsAug 11, 2022
Sotheby’s Is Preparing its First Art Jewelry Auction This Fall
“Art as Jewelry as Art” features works from artists like Salvador Dalí, Alexander Calder, and Max Ernst.
Claude Lalanne for Zolotas’ “Two Lip Necklaces” are part of Sotheby’s New York’s “Art as Jewelry as Art” sale this fall. (Image courtesy of Jordan Doner)
New York—Whether predominantly recognized for painting or sculpting, photography or film, many great modern and contemporary artists have dabbled in several mediums, including jewelry.
A new exhibition will now bring together the jewelry musings of such artists.
This fall, Sotheby’s will present “Art as Jewelry as Art” from Sept. 24-Oct. 4. Bidding will be online, and works will be on view at Sotheby’s New York alongside the “Contemporary Curated” exhibition.
Artists featured in the sale include Alexander Calder, Claude Lalanne, Ettore Sottsass, Pablo Picasso, Kiki Smith, and Salvador Dalí, among many others.
“Art as Jewelry as Art” marks the first time Sotheby’s has presented an art jewelry sale.
“This selection of artists’ jewelry aims to reintroduce these works to the discerning collector in a new context and as a defined category of art for a collection that is not only intended for adornment, but also as a means of personal expression,” explained the exhibition’s head of sale and Sotheby’s Artist Jewelry Specialist Tiffany Dubin.
“These works were not made to be squirreled away in a drawer, vanity, or safe. They were meant to be celebrated on the body in a vibrant, interactive fashion. The way we define ourselves and the art we connect with are integral parts of who we are and is what ultimately defines us as creative beings.”
The sale is split into nine sections, categorized by artistic movements.
“Chapter 1: Jewelry as Kineticism” delves into the movement of the same name prevalent in the 1950s and 1960s. It encompasses art that often features geometric shapes and presents a sense of movement.
A new exhibition will now bring together the jewelry musings of such artists.
This fall, Sotheby’s will present “Art as Jewelry as Art” from Sept. 24-Oct. 4. Bidding will be online, and works will be on view at Sotheby’s New York alongside the “Contemporary Curated” exhibition.
Artists featured in the sale include Alexander Calder, Claude Lalanne, Ettore Sottsass, Pablo Picasso, Kiki Smith, and Salvador Dalí, among many others.
“Art as Jewelry as Art” marks the first time Sotheby’s has presented an art jewelry sale.
“This selection of artists’ jewelry aims to reintroduce these works to the discerning collector in a new context and as a defined category of art for a collection that is not only intended for adornment, but also as a means of personal expression,” explained the exhibition’s head of sale and Sotheby’s Artist Jewelry Specialist Tiffany Dubin.
“These works were not made to be squirreled away in a drawer, vanity, or safe. They were meant to be celebrated on the body in a vibrant, interactive fashion. The way we define ourselves and the art we connect with are integral parts of who we are and is what ultimately defines us as creative beings.”
The sale is split into nine sections, categorized by artistic movements.
“Chapter 1: Jewelry as Kineticism” delves into the movement of the same name prevalent in the 1950s and 1960s. It encompasses art that often features geometric shapes and presents a sense of movement.
Alexander Calder’s “Lady Kenneth Clark Tiara” will be offered for sale at Sotheby’s “Art as Jewelry as Art” online auction this fall. (Image courtesy of Jordan Doner)
He crafted the tiara in 1937 or 1938 from brass. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Alexander Calder is a shining example of kinetic art with his mobiles and sculptures. He’s also well-known for his roughly 1,800 pieces of jewelry.
Eight Calder jewels are included in the Sotheby’s sale, including the brass tiara pictured above and at top of article, created in 1937 or 1938 and named for its first owner, Lady Kenneth Clark. The piece is estimated to sell for between $200,000 and $300,000.
Franco Cannilla gold link bracelet for Masenza Roma (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Art collector and third-generation jeweler Mario Masenza frequently collaborated with artists of his time, utilizing his goldsmiths to create jewelry. These artists included the Abstract Expressionists known as the “School of Rome,” active from the 1930s to 1950s.
Several works from this partnership will be on offer at the sale under the “Chapter 2: Jewelry as Abstract Expressionism” umbrella. One work is the circa 1965 gold link bracelet by Franco Cannilla seen above, estimated to fetch between $18,000 and $25,000.
César Baldaccini “Compression Pendant” (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Sculpture is the fine art form most similar to jewelry making, as seen in the section of the sale called “Chapter 3: Jewelry as Sculpture.”
Still, works from sculptors like the French artist César Baldaccini show that they bring an entirely unique point-of-view to the jewelry world.
Baldaccini’s signed “Compression Pendant” is a smaller version of his large-scale sculptures. It is expected to earn between $40,000 and $60,000.
Salvador Dalí “Persistence of Sound” earrings (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
The earrings are crafted with 18-karat gold and gemstones.
Salvador Dalí created not only paintings but sculptures, fashion, films, and jewelry.
Featured in “Chapter 4: Jewelry as Surrealism,” the iconic artist created 18-karat gold and gemstone earrings meant to resemble melting telephone receivers in 1949.
Dubbed the “Persistence of Sound” earrings, the pair is estimated to sell for $150,000-$200,000.
Other artists included in this section of the sale are Man Ray, Louise Bourgeois, Méret Oppenheim, and Claude Lalanne.
Max Ernst “Tête à Cornes” pendant (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, and Max Ernst are some of the artists included in the section “Chapter 5: Jewelry as Avant-Garde,” showcasing artists who defied norms and upended expectations with their work.
Two gold pendants by Ernst are offered for the first time, directly from the artist’s family.
This includes the “Tête à Cornes” pendant crafted in collaboration with goldsmith Francois Hugo in the late 1950s. It is expected to sell for $20,000 to $30,000.
Ettore Sottsass “Double-Barreled Ring” in gold with diamond and onyx (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
According to Sotheby’s, “Chapter 6: Jewelry as Maverick” describes artists who aimed to work entirely outside of tradition.
Featured in this assortment is the Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, who headed the influential “Memphis Group” and whose objects, furniture, and sculpture are the core of the current rage for all things postmodern in interior design.
Sottsass’ gold, diamond, and onyx ring ($30,000-$40,000) was crafted in the 1980s via a partnership with Cleto Munari.
Lucio Fontana “Ellipse with Holes (Spatial Concept)” bracelet (Image courtesy of Jordan Doner)
In the 1960s and 1970s, Minimalism emerged as an antidote to the excess of Abstract Expressionism.
Featured in “Chapter 7: Jewelry as Minimalism” are works by Carmen Herrera, Hiroshi Sugimoto, and Anish Kapoor.
One highlight is Lucio Fontana’s “Ellipse with Holes (Spatial Concept)” bracelet, estimated to earn between $80,000 and $100,000.
“Chapter 8: Jewelry as Modernism” explores the look of post-war jewelry, contrasted with heavy jewelry styles from the 1940s.
In the post-war period, jewelry designers opted for a cleaner aesthetic and experimented with materials like wood, plastic, and enamel, combining them with gold, silver, and gemstones.
In this section of the “Jewelry as Art” sale, there will be pieces by designers like Andrew Grima, Alan Gard, Charles de Temple, and Jean Vendome.
Finally, “Chapter 9: Jewelry as Visionaries” highlights forces in jewelry who set new standards for the designers after them, crafting entirely new aesthetics.
Designers included in the “Visionary” category are Suzanne Belperron and current designer James Taffin de Givenchy.
Sotheby’s noted that some current talents created work expressly for this portion of the sale. Luna Benaï created a rhombicuboctahedron-shaped wooden jewelry box featuring Amazigh symbols from the Amazigh ethnic group indigenous to north Africa.
Designer Metagolden created a gold and emerald ring resembling a geodesic dome that comes with a matching NFT. It’s expected to sell for $7,000 to $10,000.
More information about the “Art as Jewelry as Art” sale is available online.
Designers included in the “Visionary” category are Suzanne Belperron and current designer James Taffin de Givenchy.
Sotheby’s noted that some current talents created work expressly for this portion of the sale. Luna Benaï created a rhombicuboctahedron-shaped wooden jewelry box featuring Amazigh symbols from the Amazigh ethnic group indigenous to north Africa.
Designer Metagolden created a gold and emerald ring resembling a geodesic dome that comes with a matching NFT. It’s expected to sell for $7,000 to $10,000.
More information about the “Art as Jewelry as Art” sale is available online.
More on Auctions
The Latest
ColumnistsMar 21, 2023
Squirrel Spotting: Customer Retention Mindset—The New CRM With jewelry sales coming down from their pandemic highs, retailers need to do all they can to retain existing customers, Peter Smith says.
Events & AwardsMar 21, 2023
ASJRA’s May Conference Examines ‘Iconic’ Jewelry CompaniesJewelry historians, authors, and experts will explore the works of Tiffany & Co., Oscar Heyman, Verdura, and more.
IndependentsMar 21, 2023
Borsheims Executive Jennifer Johnson RetiresJohnson joined the retailer in 1987, establishing its first human resources department.
Brought to you by
Full Disclosure at Your FingertipsDistinguishing natural diamonds from laboratory-grown stones – now more available than ever – has been difficult for jewelers. Until now.
Recorded WebinarsMar 20, 2023
Watch: Lab Grown Diamonds: What's Now? What's New? What's Next?Supplier Spotlight Presented by IGI
Weekly QuizMar 17, 2023
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Events & AwardsMar 20, 2023
Gem Awards Shine Spotlight on Design, Dedication, and FamilyThe industry gathered to celebrate those who elevate the jewelry and watch industries.
CrimeMar 20, 2023
Jewelry Crime Reached Record Level in 2022, JSA SaysAt JSA’s annual luncheon, President John J. Kennedy said the organization recorded more than 2,000 cases last year.
Brought to you by
Bringing Over 130 Years of Diamond Expertise to Modern GradingDe Beers Institute of Diamonds provides the very best in diamond verification, education and diamond services.
CollectionsMar 20, 2023
A New Book on Chanel Is a High Jewelry Lover’s DreamIt highlights Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s lasting influence on modern design.
Recorded WebinarsMar 17, 2023
Watch: Lessons From GemsJewelers of America’s Amanda Gizzi explores the qualities and accomplishments that make this year’s Gem Award nominees shine.
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2023
JCK Industry Fund Announces Grant RecipientsHere’s what the nine chosen organizations plan to do with the funds.
TrendsMar 17, 2023
Piece of the Week: Anita Ko’s Award-Ready EarringsThe designer is nominated for a Gem Award for Jewelry Design.
FinancialsMar 16, 2023
Winter Weather, Declining Engagements Weigh on Signet’s Results The jewelry giant’s full-year sales were essentially flat, brought down by fourth-quarter declines.
FinancialsMar 16, 2023
Brilliant Earth Took a Record Number of Orders in 2022In its recent results, the company highlighted non-bridal jewelry sales and said its “inventory-light” showroom model may change.
Events & AwardsMar 16, 2023
Amanda’s Style File: Sparkling Gems See 15 fabulous pieces from the 2023 Gem Award for Jewelry Design nominees: Anita Ko, Kirsty Stone, and Ron Anderson and David Rees.
WatchesMar 16, 2023
Citizen’s New Eco-Drive Watches Run for a Full YearThe new Cal. E365 movement doubles the running time of the current Eco-Drive models.
SourcingMar 15, 2023
Amid Uncertainties, India’s Diamond Industry Continues to Adjust The mood among diamantaires is fairly optimistic despite the challenges brought about by sanctions and a cloudy economic outlook.
Lab-GrownMar 15, 2023
India’s Lab-Grown Diamond Industry Is Growing UpThe mood is bullish as more companies get into the business despite the dramatic drop in lab-grown diamond prices.
SourcingMar 15, 2023
Q&A: GJEPC Chairman Vipul ShahShah talks with National Jeweler about diamond demand, lab-grown, and why it’s difficult to make predictions about the U.S. market.
Policies & IssuesMar 15, 2023
When Diamonds Replenish the EarthHari Krishna Exports and the Dholakia Foundation’s “Mission 100 Sarovar” aims to create 100 lakes to help revive an area of Gujarat.
TechnologyMar 15, 2023
Sarine’s New Website Schools Consumers on TraceabilityThe educational resource will highlight the positive impact diamonds can make on their journey from mine to market.
SourcingMar 15, 2023
Canada’s Ekati Diamond Mine to Get a New OwnerAustralian mining company Burgundy Diamond Mines announced plans to buy the mine in a deal valued at $136 million.
Events & AwardsMar 15, 2023
JSA Announces Award RecipientsThey will be recognized at the organization’s annual luncheon this weekend in New York City.
ColumnistsMar 14, 2023
On Data: How Did Independent Jewelers Do in January and February? Sherry Smith breaks down the results so far this year, including which categories are the sales standouts and which are struggling.
MajorsMar 14, 2023
Dutch Historian Discovers Medieval JewelsThe 1,000-year-old find is now on display in the Dutch National Museum of Antiquities.
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2023
GemGenève Is Gearing Up for Its Biggest Show YetMore than 200 exhibitors are scheduled for the May 11-14 event.
SourcingMar 14, 2023
Bonas Group’s Jimmy Gove Joins OpsydiaGove, who has more than a decade of experience in the diamond industry, is Opsydia’s new sales and marketing director.
