AuctionsAug 03, 2022
Elvis and Colonel Tom Parker’s ‘Lost’ Jewelry Coming to AuctionAuctionsAug 11, 2022
Sotheby’s Is Preparing its First Art Jewelry Auction This Fall
“Art as Jewelry as Art” features works from artists like Salvador Dalí, Alexander Calder, and Max Ernst.
Claude Lalanne for Zolotas’ “Two Lip Necklaces” are part of Sotheby’s New York’s “Art as Jewelry as Art” sale this fall. (Image courtesy of Jordan Doner)
New York—Whether predominantly recognized for painting or sculpting, photography or film, many great modern and contemporary artists have dabbled in several mediums, including jewelry.
A new exhibition will now bring together the jewelry musings of such artists.
This fall, Sotheby’s will present “Art as Jewelry as Art” from Sept. 24-Oct. 4. Bidding will be online, and works will be on view at Sotheby’s New York alongside the “Contemporary Curated” exhibition.
Artists featured in the sale include Alexander Calder, Claude Lalanne, Ettore Sottsass, Pablo Picasso, Kiki Smith, and Salvador Dalí, among many others.
“Art as Jewelry as Art” marks the first time Sotheby’s has presented an art jewelry sale.
“This selection of artists’ jewelry aims to reintroduce these works to the discerning collector in a new context and as a defined category of art for a collection that is not only intended for adornment, but also as a means of personal expression,” explained the exhibition’s head of sale and Sotheby’s Artist Jewelry Specialist Tiffany Dubin.
“These works were not made to be squirreled away in a drawer, vanity, or safe. They were meant to be celebrated on the body in a vibrant, interactive fashion. The way we define ourselves and the art we connect with are integral parts of who we are and is what ultimately defines us as creative beings.”
The sale is split into nine sections, categorized by artistic movements.
“Chapter 1: Jewelry as Kineticism” delves into the movement of the same name prevalent in the 1950s and 1960s. It encompasses art that often features geometric shapes and presents a sense of movement.
A new exhibition will now bring together the jewelry musings of such artists.
This fall, Sotheby’s will present “Art as Jewelry as Art” from Sept. 24-Oct. 4. Bidding will be online, and works will be on view at Sotheby’s New York alongside the “Contemporary Curated” exhibition.
Artists featured in the sale include Alexander Calder, Claude Lalanne, Ettore Sottsass, Pablo Picasso, Kiki Smith, and Salvador Dalí, among many others.
“Art as Jewelry as Art” marks the first time Sotheby’s has presented an art jewelry sale.
“This selection of artists’ jewelry aims to reintroduce these works to the discerning collector in a new context and as a defined category of art for a collection that is not only intended for adornment, but also as a means of personal expression,” explained the exhibition’s head of sale and Sotheby’s Artist Jewelry Specialist Tiffany Dubin.
“These works were not made to be squirreled away in a drawer, vanity, or safe. They were meant to be celebrated on the body in a vibrant, interactive fashion. The way we define ourselves and the art we connect with are integral parts of who we are and is what ultimately defines us as creative beings.”
The sale is split into nine sections, categorized by artistic movements.
“Chapter 1: Jewelry as Kineticism” delves into the movement of the same name prevalent in the 1950s and 1960s. It encompasses art that often features geometric shapes and presents a sense of movement.
Alexander Calder’s “Lady Kenneth Clark Tiara” will be offered for sale at Sotheby’s “Art as Jewelry as Art” online auction this fall. (Image courtesy of Jordan Doner)
He crafted the tiara in 1937 or 1938 from brass. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Alexander Calder is a shining example of kinetic art with his mobiles and sculptures. He’s also well-known for his roughly 1,800 pieces of jewelry.
Eight Calder jewels are included in the Sotheby’s sale, including the brass tiara pictured above and at top of article, created in 1937 or 1938 and named for its first owner, Lady Kenneth Clark. The piece is estimated to sell for between $200,000 and $300,000.
Franco Cannilla gold link bracelet for Masenza Roma (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Art collector and third-generation jeweler Mario Masenza frequently collaborated with artists of his time, utilizing his goldsmiths to create jewelry. These artists included the Abstract Expressionists known as the “School of Rome,” active from the 1930s to 1950s.
Several works from this partnership will be on offer at the sale under the “Chapter 2: Jewelry as Abstract Expressionism” umbrella. One work is the circa 1965 gold link bracelet by Franco Cannilla seen above, estimated to fetch between $18,000 and $25,000.
César Baldaccini “Compression Pendant” (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Sculpture is the fine art form most similar to jewelry making, as seen in the section of the sale called “Chapter 3: Jewelry as Sculpture.”
Still, works from sculptors like the French artist César Baldaccini show that they bring an entirely unique point-of-view to the jewelry world.
Baldaccini’s signed “Compression Pendant” is a smaller version of his large-scale sculptures. It is expected to earn between $40,000 and $60,000.
Salvador Dalí “Persistence of Sound” earrings (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
The earrings are crafted with 18-karat gold and gemstones.
Salvador Dalí created not only paintings but sculptures, fashion, films, and jewelry.
Featured in “Chapter 4: Jewelry as Surrealism,” the iconic artist created 18-karat gold and gemstone earrings meant to resemble melting telephone receivers in 1949.
Dubbed the “Persistence of Sound” earrings, the pair is estimated to sell for $150,000-$200,000.
Other artists included in this section of the sale are Man Ray, Louise Bourgeois, Méret Oppenheim, and Claude Lalanne.
Max Ernst “Tête à Cornes” pendant (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, and Max Ernst are some of the artists included in the section “Chapter 5: Jewelry as Avant-Garde,” showcasing artists who defied norms and upended expectations with their work.
Two gold pendants by Ernst are offered for the first time, directly from the artist’s family.
This includes the “Tête à Cornes” pendant crafted in collaboration with goldsmith Francois Hugo in the late 1950s. It is expected to sell for $20,000 to $30,000.
Ettore Sottsass “Double-Barreled Ring” in gold with diamond and onyx (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)
According to Sotheby’s, “Chapter 6: Jewelry as Maverick” describes artists who aimed to work entirely outside of tradition.
Featured in this assortment is the Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, who headed the influential “Memphis Group” and whose objects, furniture, and sculpture are the core of the current rage for all things postmodern in interior design.
Sottsass’ gold, diamond, and onyx ring ($30,000-$40,000) was crafted in the 1980s via a partnership with Cleto Munari.
Lucio Fontana “Ellipse with Holes (Spatial Concept)” bracelet (Image courtesy of Jordan Doner)
In the 1960s and 1970s, Minimalism emerged as an antidote to the excess of Abstract Expressionism.
Featured in “Chapter 7: Jewelry as Minimalism” are works by Carmen Herrera, Hiroshi Sugimoto, and Anish Kapoor.
One highlight is Lucio Fontana’s “Ellipse with Holes (Spatial Concept)” bracelet, estimated to earn between $80,000 and $100,000.
“Chapter 8: Jewelry as Modernism” explores the look of post-war jewelry, contrasted with heavy jewelry styles from the 1940s.
In the post-war period, jewelry designers opted for a cleaner aesthetic and experimented with materials like wood, plastic, and enamel, combining them with gold, silver, and gemstones.
In this section of the “Jewelry as Art” sale, there will be pieces by designers like Andrew Grima, Alan Gard, Charles de Temple, and Jean Vendome.
Finally, “Chapter 9: Jewelry as Visionaries” highlights forces in jewelry who set new standards for the designers after them, crafting entirely new aesthetics.
Designers included in the “Visionary” category are Suzanne Belperron and current designer James Taffin de Givenchy.
Sotheby’s noted that some current talents created work expressly for this portion of the sale. Luna Benaï created a rhombicuboctahedron-shaped wooden jewelry box featuring Amazigh symbols from the Amazigh ethnic group indigenous to north Africa.
Designer Metagolden created a gold and emerald ring resembling a geodesic dome that comes with a matching NFT. It’s expected to sell for $7,000 to $10,000.
More information about the “Art as Jewelry as Art” sale is available online.
Designers included in the “Visionary” category are Suzanne Belperron and current designer James Taffin de Givenchy.
Sotheby’s noted that some current talents created work expressly for this portion of the sale. Luna Benaï created a rhombicuboctahedron-shaped wooden jewelry box featuring Amazigh symbols from the Amazigh ethnic group indigenous to north Africa.
Designer Metagolden created a gold and emerald ring resembling a geodesic dome that comes with a matching NFT. It’s expected to sell for $7,000 to $10,000.
More information about the “Art as Jewelry as Art” sale is available online.
More on Auctions
The Latest
Events & AwardsNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food RescueAll proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New PresidentCourtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for MembersFrom educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3 De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.
Weekly QuizNov 06, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case WednesdayAhead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.
MajorsNov 04, 2025
Danny Clark to Become Stuller CEO, Succeeding Matt StullerStuller COO Belit Myers will take on the additional role of president, with all changes effective at the start of 2026.
ColumnistsNov 04, 2025
Peter Smith: What Do Birds Have to Do With the Price of Gold? Smith cautions retailers against expending too much energy on things they can’t control, like the rising price of gold.
TrendsNov 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Fall Colors for November BirthdaysCitrine and topaz are birthstones fit for fall as the leaves change color and the holiday season approaches.
IndependentsNov 04, 2025
Weston Jewelers Heads to Fort LauderdaleThe family-owned jeweler will open its fourth store in Florida in late 2027.
CrimeNov 03, 2025
Men Dressed as Construction Workers Burglarize Jeweler’s Home The NYPD is looking for three men who stole a safe and jewelry valued at $3.2 million from the home of a jeweler in Jamaica Hills, Queens.
MajorsNov 03, 2025
Matthew Rosenheim Takes Over as JA Board ChairThe trade organization also announced its executive committee and five new directors.
CollectionsNov 03, 2025
Muse’s ‘Have a Heart’ Collab Returns, Now With DDGThe “Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good” collection is championed by model and humanitarian Flaviana Matata and will benefit her foundation.
TrendsOct 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Spinner Fit for ‘Frankenstein’This “Mother Father” spinner necklace from Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry draws inspiration from Victorian Era jewelry.
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your BusinessExperts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and ResinThe “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.
TrendsOct 30, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Haunted HalloweenShow off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2025
Jewelers Mutual to Host Jewelry Panel at Frazier History MuseumThe “Brilliant & Beyond” panel coincides with the “Love & Marriage” exhibition curated by Davis Jewelers in Louisville, Kentucky.
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2025
October Brings Little Change to Consumer Confidence Consumers are feeling more optimistic about their present situation while the short-term future remains a little scary.
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2025
Couture Partners With Time to WatchesThe company, which organizes a watch show in Geneva every spring, will bring a selection of watch brands to the 2026 Couture show in Vegas.
