EditorsJun 04, 2021
Out & About: The Stories Behind These ‘Beautiful Creatures’ Events & AwardsJun 21, 2021
See a Preview of the Vintage Jewelry Design Exhibition Coming Stateside
“Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s” is headed to the Cincinnati Art Museum this fall.
Chopard (Swiss, est. 1860), Alexandra Watch, circa 1971, gold, diamonds, lapis lazuli, Courtesy of the Cincinnati Art Museum, Collection of Kimberly Klosterman, Photography by Tony Walsh
Cincinnati—An important jewelry collection with Midwestern roots has traveled around the world before finally making its hometown debut.
Coming to the Cincinnati Art Museum this fall, “Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s” explores the radical period in jewelry design that accompanied major shifts in society, marked by the civil rights movement, women’s movement, the space race, rock ‘n’ roll, hippie culture and the birth control pill.
Just as young people were breaking with the expectations laid by generations before them, a number of jewelry designers leaned into the freedom of their own unencumbered self-expression.
Values like non-conformity and individuality appear in these designers’ work.
The 120 pieces in the “Simply Brilliant” exhibition feature works from designers like Andrew Grima, Gilbert Albert, Arthur King, Jean Vendome, Barbara Anton, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., Bulgari and Cartier.
Every piece is from the collection of Cincinnati jewelry lover Kimberly Klosterman, and curated by the Cincinnati Art Museum’s Chief Curator and Curator of Fashion Arts and Textiles Cynthia Amnéus.
Amnéus remarked, “The jewelry in this exhibition is remarkable and examines a period in body adornment that is rarely explored or understood. You think about the rather prim jewelry of the 1950s, then suddenly these artist-jewelers are creating pieces that were big and bold.
Coming to the Cincinnati Art Museum this fall, “Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s” explores the radical period in jewelry design that accompanied major shifts in society, marked by the civil rights movement, women’s movement, the space race, rock ‘n’ roll, hippie culture and the birth control pill.
Just as young people were breaking with the expectations laid by generations before them, a number of jewelry designers leaned into the freedom of their own unencumbered self-expression.
Values like non-conformity and individuality appear in these designers’ work.
The 120 pieces in the “Simply Brilliant” exhibition feature works from designers like Andrew Grima, Gilbert Albert, Arthur King, Jean Vendome, Barbara Anton, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., Bulgari and Cartier.
Every piece is from the collection of Cincinnati jewelry lover Kimberly Klosterman, and curated by the Cincinnati Art Museum’s Chief Curator and Curator of Fashion Arts and Textiles Cynthia Amnéus.
Amnéus remarked, “The jewelry in this exhibition is remarkable and examines a period in body adornment that is rarely explored or understood. You think about the rather prim jewelry of the 1950s, then suddenly these artist-jewelers are creating pieces that were big and bold.
Elsa Peretti (Italian, active United States, 1940–2021), Scorpion Necklace, 1979, gold, Courtesy of the Cincinnati Art Museum, Collection of Kimberly Klosterman, Photography by Tony Walsh
Andrew Grima (British, b. Italy, 1921–2007), Brooch, 1969, gold, watermelon tourmaline, diamonds, Courtesy of the Cincinnati Art Museum, Collection of Kimberly Klosterman, Photography by Tony Walsh
Boucheron (French, est. 1858), Bracelet, 1971, gold, elephant hair, Courtesy of the Cincinnati Art Museum, Collection of Kimberly Klosterman, Photography by Tony Walsh
Ilias Lalaounis (Greek, 1920–2013), Necklace, 1970s, gold, rock crystal, Courtesy of the Cincinnati Art Museum, Collection of Kimberly Klosterman, Photography by Tony Walsh End Gallery
“The work was overwhelmingly large, primarily gold and incorporated some very unusual materials. It was a new day. The times were changing and art, fashion, jewelry, all responded.”
Per the museum, the designers featured in Klosterman’s impressive personal collection considered themselves artists first and jewelry designers second. Their interest was in breaking away with fine jewelry norms, attracting a customer who appreciated standing out and being different from her counterparts.
Though every piece showcases its creator’s unique point-of-view, common visual themes are the use of yellow gold and large, abstracted shapes reminiscent of the Space Age.
Many designers experimented with unusual materials, incorporating coral, shells, geodes, and even elephant hair. Less expensive gemstones like lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye and moldavite feature more prominently than traditional diamonds, for example.
The exhibition’s accompanying catalogue, edited by Amnéus, puts the work into context, featuring designer or jewelry house biographies, essays from a number of scholars, full color images and details on certain pieces.
“Simply Brilliant” debuted last year in Antwerp, Belgium at the DIVA Museum for Diamonds, Jewellery and Silver, then traveled to Pforzheim, Germany’s Pforzheim Jewellery Museum.
It will finally make its hometown appearance at the Cincinnati Art Museum from Oct. 22 through Feb. 6.
The exhibition will be presented for free and will kick off with a member preview on Thursday, Oct. 21, featuring a lecture from Italian jewelry scholar Amanda Triossi.
More on Events & Awards
The Latest
CollectionsDec 20, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Ring for CharityIn the spirit of giving, Retrouvaí will donate $4,000 from the sale of this ring to the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank.
IndependentsDec 19, 2024
Michigan’s DeVries Jewelers Unveils New Location in Time for the HolidaysCo-owner Dan DeVries shared what it’s like moving into a space triple the size of its old store and how it feels to be a “real jeweler” now.
CollectionsDec 19, 2024
State Property Transforms Spain’s Generalife Gardens into JewelryAlong with the latest “Gardens” collection, the brand has released limited-edition designs offering more indulgent pieces.
Brought to you by
De Beers Group Launches Holiday Campaign for Natural Diamonds‘Forever Present’ campaign revives the iconic A Diamond is Forever tagline and celebrates the diamond dream.
CrimeDec 19, 2024
Alleged Jewelry Thieves Attempt Rowboat EscapeThe man and woman are accused of stealing jewelry from a shipping container then trying to flee by paddling a small boat out into a bay.
Weekly QuizDec 19, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingDec 19, 2024
The Second-Largest Diamond Ever Found Now Has a Name The 2,488-carat diamond recovered from a mine in Botswana has been dubbed “Motswedi” while its 1,094-carat sibling is “Seriti.”
SourcingDec 19, 2024
Gemfields Reports Record Ruby Auction Results Despite Challenges at SourceThe average price per carat hit a record high for the miner, which said it remains unaffected by the conflict in Mozambique.
Brought to you by
Advocacy and Excellence: How Jewelers of America Is Committed to Elevating Our Industry For over a century, Jewelers of America has been the voice of the industry and valuable resource to jewelers across the country.
AuctionsDec 18, 2024
Alexandrite Ring Sells for Record-Setting $1.9M at Sotheby’sThe nearly 17-carat stone made history for the color-change gem that, according to the auction house, is experiencing a “notable surge” in the market.
WatchesDec 18, 2024
Historic Titanic Pocket Watch Winds Its Way Back to Tiffany & Co. More than a century after survivors gifted a Tiffany timepiece to the captain of the ship that rescued them, the jeweler has reclaimed it.
TechnologyDec 18, 2024
Picchiotti Utilizes AI in ‘Spotlight’ Video CampaignThe videos highlight how pieces from the “Xpandable” and “Reversible Xpandable” collections put the wearer in the spotlight.
IndependentsDec 18, 2024
Industry Veteran Steve Feldman Set to RetireFeldman reflected on 45 years in the jewelry industry and clarified that it’s not a total retirement.
SourcingDec 17, 2024
Frank Circelli, Founder of Gem Shopping Network, Dies at 75Circelli was a pioneer in the world of TV shopping who is remembered for his passion for gemstones and his big personality.
AuctionsDec 17, 2024
Blue Diamond Fetches $8.8M at Christie’sThe nearly 6-carat stone headlined the recent jewelry auction, which also featured Mica Ertegun’s jewelry.
CrimeDec 17, 2024
‘Black Bin Crew’ Robbers Get 14-16 Years in Prison The three men, who got their nickname because they’d toss the jewelry they stole into black plastic bins, were arrested back in August.
TrendsDec 16, 2024
Marion Fasel’s New Book Delves Into the History of Engagement Rings“The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance” is a 128-page small-format book containing more than 165 images.
WatchesDec 16, 2024
Take a Look Inside the New Rolex Boutique on Rodeo DriveGearys opened a 6,200-square-foot Rolex store with a design that pays homage to the brand’s connection to the ocean.
GradingDec 16, 2024
GCAL By Sarine Expands 8X to 2 More Fancy Shapes The diamond cut grade is now available for marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds.
SourcingDec 16, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces 2025 Award RecipientsDDG said the honorees’ business practices embody a commitment to positive social impact, industry innovation, and community empowerment.
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Selena Gomez Said ‘Forever Begins Now’ to Marquise Diamond Engagement RingEstimates on the size and value of the solitaire diamond, which is mounted on a diamond pavé-set yellow gold band, vary.
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Martin Katz’s Tanzanite Drops These half-moon tanzanite earrings totaling 25 carats are part of a special trunk show taking place this weekend in Dallas.
Recorded WebinarsDec 13, 2024
Watch: The Highs and Lows of 2024The National Jeweler editors recap the top news, the best jewels, and their favorite stories of the year.
AuctionsDec 12, 2024
Tom Brady’s Watches Top $4M at Sotheby’s AuctionThe highest-grossing lot of the sale was the retired QB’s Rolex Paul Newman Daytona “John Player Special.”
SourcingDec 12, 2024
Grizzly Emerald Auction Garners $22.4MRecent expansion initiatives at the Zambian emerald mine have shown strong production numbers, said Grizzly founder Abdoulaye Ndiaye.
MajorsDec 12, 2024
Mark Henry Appoints New Director of SalesCarrie Forman joins the brand to guide it into the next phase of growth with major and independent retailers in the U.S. and abroad.
SourcingDec 12, 2024
De Beers Announces 2024 ‘Shining Light’ Award WinnersThe competition awarded 12 designers, each from a country where De Beers recovers diamonds, with business support and tuition assistance.
CollectionsDec 12, 2024
The Jared Atelier x Vera Wang Collection Emphasizes EleganceThe high jewelry collection features 14 one-of-a-kind pieces, with serpent and ribbon motifs winding their way through the collection.
