MajorsMar 30, 2022
RJC Executive Director Resigns, Major Companies Exit Over Russia InactionEditorsApr 01, 2022
What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Responsible’?
It’s a question that’s been on Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff’s mind since Feb. 24.
“Responsible” is a word that’s been on my mind lately, particularly so this past week following the breaking news surrounding the Responsible Jewellery Council.
Every time the word comes to mind, so does this question: What do we mean in the jewelry industry when we say “responsible?” I don’t mean only as the term applies to RJC and its standards, and I’m not writing this piece as a criticism of RJC alone but, instead, to pose this question to the industry as a whole.
I’m asking, obviously, in light of Russia’s Feb. 24 invasion of Ukraine and its effects on the jewelry industry, which have spread like smoke trapped in a vacuum chamber.
The first major company to speak out was Brilliant Earth, announcing Feb. 26 that it was pulling Russian diamonds from its website.
Signet announced its decision to cut ties with Russian companies during its March 17 earnings call. Tiffany & Co. followed on March 25, and then Chopard.
The RJC blowback came this week, with the resignation of now-former Executive Director Iris Van der Veken and the exit of major players like Pandora and Richemont.
It’s obvious why these companies are disavowing Russian goods and Alrosa’s participation in RJC now, but the situation at hand forces us, if we are willing, to confront a larger truth.
Russian President Vladimir Putin, who first entered office in 2000, has been a bad actor for decades.
The list of atrocities he’s committed or is accused of committing include, but are certainly not limited to, human rights abuses in Chechnya, the 2014 annexation of Crimea, the poisoning of dissidents, and the near extermination of the free press in Russia.
So, was buying diamonds from Alrosa ever really responsible?
It’s another question that’s been on my mind since Feb. 24 and one that JCK News Director Rob Bates addressed in a recent episode of JCK’s podcast.
Bates pointed out that Alrosa has been a well-respected player in the jewelry industry, a “good actor” that’s gone out of its way to be transparent and take social responsibility seriously and, I would add, continues to provide jobs for a lot of people.
But that doesn’t change the fact that the diamond miner is one-third owned by the Russian government, a fact from which Alrosa can no longer distance itself.
“Whatever Alrosa’s merits ... as a business, people really looked at it as something distinct from the Russian government,” Bates said. “And in retrospect, perhaps that was a mistake because it is one-third owned by the Russian government.”
Related stories will be right here …
Every time the word comes to mind, so does this question: What do we mean in the jewelry industry when we say “responsible?” I don’t mean only as the term applies to RJC and its standards, and I’m not writing this piece as a criticism of RJC alone but, instead, to pose this question to the industry as a whole.
I’m asking, obviously, in light of Russia’s Feb. 24 invasion of Ukraine and its effects on the jewelry industry, which have spread like smoke trapped in a vacuum chamber.
The first major company to speak out was Brilliant Earth, announcing Feb. 26 that it was pulling Russian diamonds from its website.
Signet announced its decision to cut ties with Russian companies during its March 17 earnings call. Tiffany & Co. followed on March 25, and then Chopard.
The RJC blowback came this week, with the resignation of now-former Executive Director Iris Van der Veken and the exit of major players like Pandora and Richemont.
It’s obvious why these companies are disavowing Russian goods and Alrosa’s participation in RJC now, but the situation at hand forces us, if we are willing, to confront a larger truth.
Russian President Vladimir Putin, who first entered office in 2000, has been a bad actor for decades.
The list of atrocities he’s committed or is accused of committing include, but are certainly not limited to, human rights abuses in Chechnya, the 2014 annexation of Crimea, the poisoning of dissidents, and the near extermination of the free press in Russia.
So, was buying diamonds from Alrosa ever really responsible?
It’s another question that’s been on my mind since Feb. 24 and one that JCK News Director Rob Bates addressed in a recent episode of JCK’s podcast.
Bates pointed out that Alrosa has been a well-respected player in the jewelry industry, a “good actor” that’s gone out of its way to be transparent and take social responsibility seriously and, I would add, continues to provide jobs for a lot of people.
But that doesn’t change the fact that the diamond miner is one-third owned by the Russian government, a fact from which Alrosa can no longer distance itself.
“Whatever Alrosa’s merits ... as a business, people really looked at it as something distinct from the Russian government,” Bates said. “And in retrospect, perhaps that was a mistake because it is one-third owned by the Russian government.”
I would be remiss if I ended this editorial without addressing something non-Russia-related that’s come to mind while contemplating the “responsible” question.
Back in fall 2020, Rio Tinto CEO Jean-Sébastien Jacques resigned after the mining company blew up prehistoric caves in Western Australia that were sacred to two Australian Aboriginal groups—the Puutu Kunti Kurrama and Pinikura—and archeologically important, containing signs of human habitation stretching back 45,000 years.
Although the news was not specifically related to Rio Tinto’s diamond mining operations—it was the company’s iron ore division that destroyed the caves—the story felt important enough for us to cover. It received little attention in the trade otherwise.
Rio Tinto was in the news again more recently, this time for a report generated by an internal taskforce that revealed, to quote current CEO Jakob Stausholm, a “deeply disturbing” culture where women are sexually harassed and passed over for promotions, employees in Australia who identify as Aboriginal or Torres Strait Islander experience racism, and LGBTQIA+ employees are bullied.
Rio Tinto, like Alrosa, is, as far as I can tell, a respected player in the industry and a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, once again begging the question—what do we mean when we say responsible?
Is behavior considered “responsible” up until the point it becomes so blatant—like a full-scale, unprovoked invasion of another country—that we can’t look the other way, though, unsurprisingly, many continue to do so?
Are we willing to take “responsible” measures only if it doesn’t hurt the bottom line or complicate business too much?
Are we worried about being “responsible” only when consumers are asking about a specific situation, or when we think they might “find out about it?”
Where do we draw the line on being “responsible?”
As I finished writing this Friday morning, Alrosa sent out a statement that it was suspending its membership in the Responsible Jewellery Council due to the “current unprecedented realities,” while noting it will continue to uphold its high standards of responsible business conduct and ethics, and fully support RJC’s mission.
We will have a full report on Alrosa’s decision in Monday’s newsletter and will continue to follow developments that relate to Russia and Ukraine.
Ongoing developments aside, this crisis is creating many questions the industry must confront, starting with the one I’ve posed here.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Editors
The Latest
Recorded WebinarsMay 27, 2022
Watch: The 5 Things I Always Take to a Trade ShowEditor-in-Chief Michelle Graff is joined by three industry veterans to talk about the items they never leave behind and why.
CollectionsMay 27, 2022
92Y Has Selected its 2022 Artist in ResidenceGerman jewelry artist Alexander Blank is the fourth designer to receive the honor.
CollectionsMay 27, 2022
Piece of the Week: Which Movie Inspired This Chopard Masterpiece?The answer is “Hair,” and the necklace is from Chopard’s 2022 Red Carpet Collection, rolled out at the Cannes Film Festival.
Brought to you by
3 Reasons to Offer Estate Buying at Your StoreProvide your customers with a seamless selling solution by partnering with Windsor Jewelers, Inc.
Supplier BulletinMay 26, 2022
Extraordinary Italian Jewelry at JCK and COUTURESponsored by Italian Trade Agency
Weekly QuizMay 26, 2022
This Week’s QuizTest your knowledge of the latest jewelry news with this quick test.
SourcingMay 26, 2022
Q&A: Deciphering De Beers’ Blockchain PlatformDavid Prager virtually sat down with Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff to answer questions about the rollout of Tracr at scale.
AuctionsMay 26, 2022
Bonhams New York Jewels Auction Is a White Glove SaleJewelry and objects belonging to Bette Midler, heiress Hélène Irwin Crocker Fagan, and Lady Sylvia Ashley were among the highlights.
Brought to you by
Dive into GIA’s Pearl ExpertiseWhen it comes to knowing the identity and quality of your pearls, count on GIA as your independent pearl experts.
FinancialsMay 26, 2022
Movado Posts Record Q1 Sales Despite ‘Challenging’ US MarketThe company opted not to raise its fiscal guidance, citing a slowdown in the U.S. market as a key reason.
TechnologyMay 26, 2022
State of Retail: The Pros and Cons of 4 Jewelry-Selling PlatformsFrom “old-school” eBay to new kid on the block 1stDibs, we asked jewelers about their experiences selling jewelry in non-traditional places.
Policies & IssuesMay 26, 2022
Barbara Wheat Named Executive Director of Ethical Metalsmiths She has nearly 30 years’ experience in the gem and jewelry industry and a background in nonprofit management.
MajorsMay 25, 2022
Anne Hathaway Is Bulgari’s Newest AmbassadorThe actress joins Zendaya and others in a new advertising campaign.
IndependentsMay 25, 2022
The Mexican Shack to Close After 47 YearsOwner Steve Delzio shares his thoughts on retirement after nearly five decades in the jewelry industry.
IndependentsMay 25, 2022
Designer Theo Fennell Has Written a Memoir “I Fear for This Boy” takes readers through the ups and downs of his business and is available for pre-order now.
IndependentsMay 25, 2022
MVEye, Wedding Report Partner on New Jewelry Research Platform“Today’s Wedding Jewelry Consumer” shares data about engagement ring market size, lab-grown and natural diamonds, and more.
ColumnistsMay 24, 2022
The PR Adviser: 10 Questions to Contemplate Columnist Lilian Raji wants to walk you through the customer journey. But first, she’d like you to answer a few questions.
Events & AwardsMay 24, 2022
8 Gold Jewelry Designers Unveil New Platinum DesignsSeveral Couture brands have partnered with Platinum Guild International ahead of the jewelry trade show.
Lab-GrownMay 24, 2022
Kendra Scott Unveils Lab-Grown Engagement Ring CollectionThe jewelry company is moving into bridal just a month after branching out into the watch world.
SourcingMay 24, 2022
State of the Diamond Industry: Where Does Supply Go From Here?The 2008 economic crisis, COVID-19, and sanctions on Russian goods have set the stage for an interesting decade for natural diamond supply.
Events & AwardsMay 24, 2022
WJA to Host Diversity Keynote at New Las Vegas Breakfast Event The Generating Community Impact fundraiser on June 11 will feature Karine Bah Tahé of Blue Level Training.
WatchesMay 23, 2022
Steven Kaiser, Watch Industry Veteran and Beloved Mentor, Dies at 68 Kaiser, whose illustrious career spanned decades, died suddenly on Friday.
IndependentsMay 23, 2022
Long’s Jewelers to Open New LocationThe family-owned jeweler is relocating its Braintree, Massachusetts, store to a new space.
IndependentsMay 23, 2022
Luxury Goods Veteran Olivier Stip Joins Chicago Jeweler CD Peacock He will step into the retailer’s newly created role of chief development officer.
GradingMay 23, 2022
Gem-A Launches Digital Entry-Level Gemology CourseGemIntro is meant to give a broad introduction to gems and gemology.
Recorded WebinarsMay 20, 2022
Watch: Responsible Sourcing and the Gold Supply Chain Three industry experts discuss “recycled” gold vs. mined, their challenges and benefits, and how jewelers can navigate the area.
FinancialsMay 20, 2022
Richemont’s 2022 Jewelry Sales in the Americas Nearly DoubleCartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Buccellati put on stellar performances.
AuctionsMay 20, 2022
Piece of the Week: ‘Birds in Flight’ by Oscar Heyman The New York jeweler made this incredible, colorful Art Deco bracelet featuring tropical birds in 1927.
