Editors

What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Responsible’?

EditorsApr 01, 2022

What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Responsible’?

It’s a question that’s been on Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff’s mind since Feb. 24.

2021_Diamonds-stock.jpg
“Responsible” is a word that’s been on my mind lately, particularly so this past week following the breaking news surrounding the Responsible Jewellery Council.

Every time the word comes to mind, so does this question: What do we mean in the jewelry industry when we say “responsible?” I don’t mean only as the term applies to RJC and its standards, and I’m not writing this piece as a criticism of RJC alone but, instead, to pose this question to the industry as a whole.

I’m asking, obviously, in light of Russia’s Feb. 24 invasion of Ukraine and its effects on the jewelry industry, which have spread like smoke trapped in a vacuum chamber.

The first major company to speak out was Brilliant Earth, announcing Feb. 26 that it was pulling Russian diamonds from its website.

Signet announced its decision to cut ties with Russian companies during its March 17 earnings call. Tiffany & Co. followed on March 25, and then Chopard.

The RJC blowback came this week, with the resignation of now-former Executive Director Iris Van der Veken and the exit of major players like Pandora and Richemont.

It’s obvious why these companies are disavowing Russian goods and Alrosa’s participation in RJC now, but the situation at hand forces us, if we are willing, to confront a larger truth.

Russian President Vladimir Putin, who first entered office in 2000, has been a bad actor for decades.

The list of atrocities he’s committed or is accused of committing include, but are certainly not limited to, human rights abuses in Chechnya, the 2014 annexation of Crimea, the poisoning of dissidents, and the near extermination of the free press in Russia.

So, was buying diamonds from Alrosa ever really responsible?

It’s another question that’s been on my mind since Feb. 24 and one that JCK News Director Rob Bates addressed in a recent episode of JCK’s podcast.

Bates pointed out that Alrosa has been a well-respected player in the jewelry industry, a “good actor” that’s gone out of its way to be transparent and take social responsibility seriously and, I would add, continues to provide jobs for a lot of people. 

But that doesn’t change the fact that the diamond miner is one-third owned by the Russian government, a fact from which Alrosa can no longer distance itself.

“Whatever Alrosa’s merits ... as a business, people really looked at it as something distinct from the Russian government,” Bates said. “And in retrospect, perhaps that was a mistake because it is one-third owned by the Russian government.” 

 Related stories will be right here … 

I would be remiss if I ended this editorial without addressing something non-Russia-related that’s come to mind while contemplating the “responsible” question.

Back in fall 2020, Rio Tinto CEO Jean-Sébastien Jacques resigned after the mining company blew up prehistoric caves in Western Australia that were sacred to two Australian Aboriginal groups—the Puutu Kunti Kurrama and Pinikura—and archeologically important, containing signs of human habitation stretching back 45,000 years.

Although the news was not specifically related to Rio Tinto’s diamond mining operations—it was the company’s iron ore division that destroyed the caves—the story felt important enough for us to cover. It received little attention in the trade otherwise.

Rio Tinto was in the news again more recently, this time for a report generated by an internal taskforce that revealed, to quote current CEO Jakob Stausholm, a “deeply disturbing” culture where women are sexually harassed and passed over for promotions, employees in Australia who identify as Aboriginal or Torres Strait Islander experience racism, and LGBTQIA+ employees are bullied.

Rio Tinto, like Alrosa, is, as far as I can tell, a respected player in the industry and a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, once again begging the question—what do we mean when we say responsible?

Is behavior considered “responsible” up until the point it becomes so blatant—like a full-scale, unprovoked invasion of another country—that we can’t look the other way, though, unsurprisingly, many continue to do so? 

Are we willing to take “responsible” measures only if it doesn’t hurt the bottom line or complicate business too much?

Are we worried about being “responsible” only when consumers are asking about a specific situation, or when we think they might “find out about it?” 

Where do we draw the line on being “responsible?” 

As I finished writing this Friday morning, Alrosa sent out a statement that it was suspending its membership in the Responsible Jewellery Council due to the “current unprecedented realities,” while noting it will continue to uphold its high standards of responsible business conduct and ethics, and fully support RJC’s mission. 

We will have a full report on Alrosa’s decision in Monday’s newsletter and will continue to follow developments that relate to Russia and Ukraine.  

Ongoing developments aside, this crisis is creating many questions the industry must confront, starting with the one I’ve posed here.

The Latest

Brilliant Earth Jolie Mosaics engagement ring
FinancialsAug 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 3% as Engagement Ring Sales Rise

The company raised its full-year sales guidance while noting it has not yet assessed the potential impact of the latest tariff news.

Jewellers for Hope charity event
Events & AwardsAug 08, 2025
GJEPC’s Jewellers for Hope Celebrates 10 Years of Fundraising

The organization has raised more than $1.3 million for charity since its inception.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bezel Bangle
TrendsAug 08, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rahaminov Diamonds’ Bezel Bangle

The brand’s latest iteration of a bezel-set diamond bangle features clean lines and a timeless design for a new modern silhouette.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Black and white photo of Tony Bennett near a microphone
WatchesAug 07, 2025
Bulova’s New Collection Honors Tony Bennett

The first watch in the series commemorates his participation in the Civil Rights movement, marching from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

Weekly QuizAug 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Sapphire page in Chatham’s “Ultimate Lab-Grown Catalog”
Lab-GrownAug 07, 2025
Chatham Releases Catalog for Loose Lab-Grown Gemstones

The catalog contains a complete listing of all the loose gemstones in stock, as well as information about the properties of each stone.

Rembrandt Blue Jay, Hummingbird, Cardinal Bird Charms
TechnologyAug 07, 2025
Rembrandt Charms Debuts New Website, Bird Charms

The company added a retailer dashboard to its site and three new birds to its charm collection, the cardinal, blue jay, and hummingbird.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says

An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The jewelry and accessories retailer plans to close 18 stores as part of the proceedings.

Smith & Son Jewelers storefront Springfield Massachusetts
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location

Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.

Zahn-Z Beluga Spout Grey Spinel Ring and Beluga Spout Mandarin Garnet Ring
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ Collection

Designer Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.

Paola De Luca presenting Trendbook 2026+ at Vicenzaoro
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+

She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.

Omar Roy mugshot
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami Jeweler

Omar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.

Mignon Faget Beyond Katrina Pendant and Beyond Katrina Pin
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane Katrina

The New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of Coverage

Lilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.

Jewelers of America Logo
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship Winners

The organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.

2026 Gem Awards logo
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging Designers

The winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.

Marlo Laz peridot and diamond Alexandra earrings
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright Baubles

As summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.

Surveillance image of Watch King robbery suspect
CrimeAug 04, 2025
‘The Watch King’ Assaulted, Robbed in Queens

Moshe Haimoff, a social media personality and 47th Street retailer, was robbed of $559,000 worth of jewelry by men in construction outfits.

Xavier Dibbrell
MajorsAug 04, 2025
Borsheims Welcomes New Assistant Facilities Manager

Xavier Dibbrell brings more than a decade of experience to the role.

Signet Jewelers logo
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Helzberg President Julie Yoakum Moves Over to Signet Jewelers

The addition of Yoakum, who will lead Kay and Peoples, was one of three executive appointments Signet announced Thursday.

Mike Alexander
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names Mike Alexander as President

The insurance company’s previous president and CEO, Scott Murphy, has split his role and will continue as CEO.

 Gemfields rough rubies
SourcingAug 01, 2025
Gemfields’ Auction Revenue Drops 50% in H1

The nearly six-month pause of operations at its Kagem emerald mine earlier this year impacted the miner’s first-half results.

Hernsdorf Tears of Aphrodite Necklace
CollectionsAug 01, 2025
Piece of the Week: Hernsdorf’s ‘Tears of Aphrodite’ Necklace

The necklace uses spinel drops to immortalize the moment Aphrodite’s tears mixed with her lover Adonis’ blood after he was fatally wounded.

Stock image of a polished diamonds being held by tweezers
SourcingJul 31, 2025
De Beers Records $189M First-Half Loss

The diamond miner and marketer warned last week that it expected to be in the red after significantly cutting prices in Q2.

Lindsey Scoggins Studio convertible flower earrings
Events & AwardsJul 31, 2025
These Are the 2025 CASE Award Winners

Jewelers of America’s 35th annual design contest recognized creativity, artistry, style, and excellence.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy