MajorsMar 30, 2022
RJC Executive Director Resigns, Major Companies Exit Over Russia InactionEditorsApr 01, 2022
What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Responsible’?
It’s a question that’s been on Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff’s mind since Feb. 24.
“Responsible” is a word that’s been on my mind lately, particularly so this past week following the breaking news surrounding the Responsible Jewellery Council.
Every time the word comes to mind, so does this question: What do we mean in the jewelry industry when we say “responsible?” I don’t mean only as the term applies to RJC and its standards, and I’m not writing this piece as a criticism of RJC alone but, instead, to pose this question to the industry as a whole.
I’m asking, obviously, in light of Russia’s Feb. 24 invasion of Ukraine and its effects on the jewelry industry, which have spread like smoke trapped in a vacuum chamber.
The first major company to speak out was Brilliant Earth, announcing Feb. 26 that it was pulling Russian diamonds from its website.
Signet announced its decision to cut ties with Russian companies during its March 17 earnings call. Tiffany & Co. followed on March 25, and then Chopard.
The RJC blowback came this week, with the resignation of now-former Executive Director Iris Van der Veken and the exit of major players like Pandora and Richemont.
It’s obvious why these companies are disavowing Russian goods and Alrosa’s participation in RJC now, but the situation at hand forces us, if we are willing, to confront a larger truth.
Russian President Vladimir Putin, who first entered office in 2000, has been a bad actor for decades.
The list of atrocities he’s committed or is accused of committing include, but are certainly not limited to, human rights abuses in Chechnya, the 2014 annexation of Crimea, the poisoning of dissidents, and the near extermination of the free press in Russia.
So, was buying diamonds from Alrosa ever really responsible?
It’s another question that’s been on my mind since Feb. 24 and one that JCK News Director Rob Bates addressed in a recent episode of JCK’s podcast.
Bates pointed out that Alrosa has been a well-respected player in the jewelry industry, a “good actor” that’s gone out of its way to be transparent and take social responsibility seriously and, I would add, continues to provide jobs for a lot of people.
But that doesn’t change the fact that the diamond miner is one-third owned by the Russian government, a fact from which Alrosa can no longer distance itself.
“Whatever Alrosa’s merits ... as a business, people really looked at it as something distinct from the Russian government,” Bates said. “And in retrospect, perhaps that was a mistake because it is one-third owned by the Russian government.”
Related stories will be right here …
Every time the word comes to mind, so does this question: What do we mean in the jewelry industry when we say “responsible?” I don’t mean only as the term applies to RJC and its standards, and I’m not writing this piece as a criticism of RJC alone but, instead, to pose this question to the industry as a whole.
I’m asking, obviously, in light of Russia’s Feb. 24 invasion of Ukraine and its effects on the jewelry industry, which have spread like smoke trapped in a vacuum chamber.
The first major company to speak out was Brilliant Earth, announcing Feb. 26 that it was pulling Russian diamonds from its website.
Signet announced its decision to cut ties with Russian companies during its March 17 earnings call. Tiffany & Co. followed on March 25, and then Chopard.
The RJC blowback came this week, with the resignation of now-former Executive Director Iris Van der Veken and the exit of major players like Pandora and Richemont.
It’s obvious why these companies are disavowing Russian goods and Alrosa’s participation in RJC now, but the situation at hand forces us, if we are willing, to confront a larger truth.
Russian President Vladimir Putin, who first entered office in 2000, has been a bad actor for decades.
The list of atrocities he’s committed or is accused of committing include, but are certainly not limited to, human rights abuses in Chechnya, the 2014 annexation of Crimea, the poisoning of dissidents, and the near extermination of the free press in Russia.
So, was buying diamonds from Alrosa ever really responsible?
It’s another question that’s been on my mind since Feb. 24 and one that JCK News Director Rob Bates addressed in a recent episode of JCK’s podcast.
Bates pointed out that Alrosa has been a well-respected player in the jewelry industry, a “good actor” that’s gone out of its way to be transparent and take social responsibility seriously and, I would add, continues to provide jobs for a lot of people.
But that doesn’t change the fact that the diamond miner is one-third owned by the Russian government, a fact from which Alrosa can no longer distance itself.
“Whatever Alrosa’s merits ... as a business, people really looked at it as something distinct from the Russian government,” Bates said. “And in retrospect, perhaps that was a mistake because it is one-third owned by the Russian government.”
I would be remiss if I ended this editorial without addressing something non-Russia-related that’s come to mind while contemplating the “responsible” question.
Back in fall 2020, Rio Tinto CEO Jean-Sébastien Jacques resigned after the mining company blew up prehistoric caves in Western Australia that were sacred to two Australian Aboriginal groups—the Puutu Kunti Kurrama and Pinikura—and archeologically important, containing signs of human habitation stretching back 45,000 years.
Although the news was not specifically related to Rio Tinto’s diamond mining operations—it was the company’s iron ore division that destroyed the caves—the story felt important enough for us to cover. It received little attention in the trade otherwise.
Rio Tinto was in the news again more recently, this time for a report generated by an internal taskforce that revealed, to quote current CEO Jakob Stausholm, a “deeply disturbing” culture where women are sexually harassed and passed over for promotions, employees in Australia who identify as Aboriginal or Torres Strait Islander experience racism, and LGBTQIA+ employees are bullied.
Rio Tinto, like Alrosa, is, as far as I can tell, a respected player in the industry and a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, once again begging the question—what do we mean when we say responsible?
Is behavior considered “responsible” up until the point it becomes so blatant—like a full-scale, unprovoked invasion of another country—that we can’t look the other way, though, unsurprisingly, many continue to do so?
Are we willing to take “responsible” measures only if it doesn’t hurt the bottom line or complicate business too much?
Are we worried about being “responsible” only when consumers are asking about a specific situation, or when we think they might “find out about it?”
Where do we draw the line on being “responsible?”
As I finished writing this Friday morning, Alrosa sent out a statement that it was suspending its membership in the Responsible Jewellery Council due to the “current unprecedented realities,” while noting it will continue to uphold its high standards of responsible business conduct and ethics, and fully support RJC’s mission.
We will have a full report on Alrosa’s decision in Monday’s newsletter and will continue to follow developments that relate to Russia and Ukraine.
Ongoing developments aside, this crisis is creating many questions the industry must confront, starting with the one I’ve posed here.
The Latest
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat RoughThe big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation StudioMarie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good BoardIlana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.
Weekly QuizJun 11, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’sIt was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for ReorganizationThe approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyThe men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s RingThe bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse RetiresThe industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry VoicesThe panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, LiterallyInspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for SoutheastThe company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine JewelryThe jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.
SourcingJun 08, 2026
Sally Morrison to Depart De Beers This Summer Morrison has been marketing diamonds on and off since the early 2000s and said she is leaving to “pursue new projects.”
TrendsJun 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: June’s Birthstone TrioThose born in June can celebrate with pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone jewelry.
TechnologyJun 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings Launches Ring Builder PlatformThe platform allows retailers to guide clients through a customizable engagement ring buying experience in a branded interface.
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 YearsJim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride MonthThe “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural DiamondsThe jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.
AuctionsJun 04, 2026
Treasures from Maurice Tempelsman’s ‘Marvelous’ Life Head to AuctionUp for auction at Sotheby’s, the collection of Tempelsman’s personal effects includes a Cartier Tank watch Jackie O. gifted him.
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in AspenThe Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.
MajorsJun 04, 2026
AGS Honors Late Peter Yantzer, Holds Time Capsule CeremonyThe organization also announced its international board of directors for the 2026-2027 term.
MajorsJun 04, 2026
Neiman Marcus’ Downtown Dallas Store to Close in SeptemberSaks Global confirmed the closure this week, spelling the end for a store that’s been part of downtown Dallas for more than 100 years.
ColumnistsJun 03, 2026
Peter Smith: When Top Talent Leaves and What It Says About YouSmith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.
