FinancialsFeb 10, 2022
Watches of Switzerland’s Q3 Jewelry Sales Up 88%FinancialsFeb 18, 2022
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Had an ‘Exceptional’ Year
The luxury conglomerate posted record overall revenue in 2021.
A pair of sun-shaped diamond hoops set with 35.93 carats of emeralds from Kering-owned Boucheron’s new high jewelry collection. Kering’s revenue was up 35 percent year-over-year.
Paris—Kering had a strong end to its fiscal year, reporting record revenue for 2021 and exceeding pre-pandemic 2019 levels, and its jewelry brands stood out as a bright spot on the balance sheet.
CEO François-Henri Pinault said during an earnings call Thursday the luxury giant may look into acquisitions in the near future, including in jewelry.
“We will very actively look at a potential acquisition, if it makes sense in terms of our portfolio strategy going forward and we have the means to do that,” he said.
The company behind Gucci, Saint Laurent, and other high-end brands posted fourth-quarter revenue of €5.41 billion ($6.14 billion), a 35 percent increase year-over-year and 24 percent higher than the fourth quarter of 2019.
For the full year, revenue was up 35 percent year-over-year to €17.64 billion ($20.05 billion) and up 11 percent compared with 2019.
“All our houses are stronger than ever before, and we are confident we will extend last year’s momentum in 2022 and in coming years,” said Pinault in a press release about the results.
The company’s watch and jewelry brands, including Pomellato and Boucheron, fall into its “other houses” division, alongside Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga.
Quarterly revenue in the “others” division totaled €945.4 million ($1.07 billion), a 36 percent increase year-over-year and a 35 percent increase compared with 2019.
For the full year, revenue in this category was up 43 percent year-over-year to €3.26 billion ($3.71 billion) and up 29 percent compared with 2019.
It was an “exceptional year for jewelry,” said Kering. “Boucheron enjoyed success in new markets, Pomellato continued to grow at an exceptional pace, and Qeelin saw very rapid expansion.”
Boucheron recently debuted its latest high jewelry collection. Called “New Maharajahs,” it draws inspiration from the style of Bhupinder Singh, the Maharajah of Patiala, who paid a visit to the jeweler in Paris in 1928.
“Boucheron is capitalizing on its exceptional offerings in high jewelry and jewelry to confirm its promises and its strong potential in Asia-Pacific,” said Chief Financial Officer Jean-Marc Duplaix during the company’s earnings call Thursday.
Qeelin is seeing “explosive growth,” said Kering, with the brand’s sales up 2.5 times compared with 2019 levels. The brand is doing especially well in the Asia-Pacific region.
Pomellato could be next in line to see strong growth, said Kering.
“Pomellato, which still derives the bulk of its revenue from Europe, is gradually expanding its footprint, leveraging its iconic lines and new launches,” said Duplaix.
Kering recently sold watch brands Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux back to their management teams.
Related stories will be right here …
CEO François-Henri Pinault said during an earnings call Thursday the luxury giant may look into acquisitions in the near future, including in jewelry.
“We will very actively look at a potential acquisition, if it makes sense in terms of our portfolio strategy going forward and we have the means to do that,” he said.
The company behind Gucci, Saint Laurent, and other high-end brands posted fourth-quarter revenue of €5.41 billion ($6.14 billion), a 35 percent increase year-over-year and 24 percent higher than the fourth quarter of 2019.
For the full year, revenue was up 35 percent year-over-year to €17.64 billion ($20.05 billion) and up 11 percent compared with 2019.
“All our houses are stronger than ever before, and we are confident we will extend last year’s momentum in 2022 and in coming years,” said Pinault in a press release about the results.
The company’s watch and jewelry brands, including Pomellato and Boucheron, fall into its “other houses” division, alongside Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga.
Quarterly revenue in the “others” division totaled €945.4 million ($1.07 billion), a 36 percent increase year-over-year and a 35 percent increase compared with 2019.
For the full year, revenue in this category was up 43 percent year-over-year to €3.26 billion ($3.71 billion) and up 29 percent compared with 2019.
It was an “exceptional year for jewelry,” said Kering. “Boucheron enjoyed success in new markets, Pomellato continued to grow at an exceptional pace, and Qeelin saw very rapid expansion.”
Boucheron recently debuted its latest high jewelry collection. Called “New Maharajahs,” it draws inspiration from the style of Bhupinder Singh, the Maharajah of Patiala, who paid a visit to the jeweler in Paris in 1928.
“Boucheron is capitalizing on its exceptional offerings in high jewelry and jewelry to confirm its promises and its strong potential in Asia-Pacific,” said Chief Financial Officer Jean-Marc Duplaix during the company’s earnings call Thursday.
Qeelin is seeing “explosive growth,” said Kering, with the brand’s sales up 2.5 times compared with 2019 levels. The brand is doing especially well in the Asia-Pacific region.
Pomellato could be next in line to see strong growth, said Kering.
“Pomellato, which still derives the bulk of its revenue from Europe, is gradually expanding its footprint, leveraging its iconic lines and new launches,” said Duplaix.
Kering recently sold watch brands Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux back to their management teams.
Quarterly revenue from Kering’s directly operated stores, including e-commerce, was up 39 percent year-over-year and up 34 percent compared with 2019.
For the full-year, revenue from these stores rose 40 percent year-over-year. It was up 18 percent compared with 2019.
Online sales continued to grow, up 55 percent year-over-year, and now accounting for 15 percent of total sales in the retail network, up from 13 percent of sales last year.
Wholesale revenue was up 17 percent year-over-year, but down 3 percent compared with 2019, which is in line with the company’s “increasingly exclusive” approach to distribution.
By region, sales in North America were up 63 percent year-over-year in the quarter and up 76 percent in the full year. Compared with 2019, sales were up 82 percent.
As the U.S. luxury market continues to grow, Pinault said the company may expand its network into “second- and third-tier” cities like Atlanta and Nashville. A Gucci store is set to open soon in Austin.
Kering has been looking to boost its sustainability efforts, joining forces with Richemont-owned Cartier to launch the Watch and Jewelry Initiative 2030 in partnership with the Responsible Jewelry Council, an effort to set industry-wide sustainability goals.
The company also recently announced it would no longer use fur as of fall 2022.
Kering did not provide specific guidance for the next fiscal year.
More on Financials
The Latest
IndependentsJun 25, 2025
Marissa Collections Opens in Nantucket as Legal Fight ContinuesThe Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.
CrimeJun 25, 2025
Customs Nabs Another Big Shipment of Fake Cartier, Van Cleef JewelryAgents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.
CollectionsJun 25, 2025
Splash into Karina Choudhrie’s Collection of Underwater Circus PerformersThe designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2025
JA Announces Impact Initiative Fund RecipientsThe trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.
Weekly QuizJun 20, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingJun 25, 2025
2025 AGTA Spectrum Awards Open for EntriesThe organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.
EditorsJun 24, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 2Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
IndependentsJun 24, 2025
Colorado Bench Jeweler Celebrates 50 Years With Local RetailerLori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.
WatchesJun 24, 2025
Citizen’s New ‘Fantastic Four’ Watch Is Literally Super The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.
MajorsJun 24, 2025
Tacori, QVC to Launch Exclusive Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry CollectionThe “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.
GradingJun 23, 2025
GIA Names New President and CEO Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.
Recorded WebinarsJun 23, 2025
Watch: Top Trends at Couture, JCK Las Vegas 2025National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.
SourcingJun 23, 2025
Diamond Producers, Organizations to Kick in Money to Promote Natural DiamondsSignatories to the “Luanda Accord” committed to allocating 1 percent of annual diamond revenue to the Natural Diamond Council.
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Celebrate 6 Jewelry DesignersThe winning designs captured the “Radiance” theme.
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Dua Lipa Stays On-Trend With Chunky Engagement RingThe singer’s ring ticks off many bridal trends, with a thick band, half-bezel setting, and solitaire diamond.
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yvonne Léon’s ‘Python Gold’ BraceletThe bracelet references vintage high jewelry and snake symbolism as a playful piece where a python’s head becomes a working belt buckle.
CrimeJun 18, 2025
7 Men Indicted in $100M Brinks Jewelry HeistThe heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.
AuctionsJun 18, 2025
Historic ‘Marie-Thérèse Pink’ Diamond Fetches $14M at Christie’sThe 10-carat fancy purple-pink diamond with potential links to Marie Antoinette headlined the white-glove jewelry auction this week.
EditorsJun 18, 2025
Q&A: Caryl Capeci Dives Into Cruise Jewelry ShoppingThe Starboard Cruises SVP discusses who is shopping for jewelry on ships, how much they’re spending, and why brands should get on board.
AuctionsJun 18, 2025
16th-Century ‘Gresham Grasshopper’ Ring Sells for $56KThe historic signet ring exceeded its estimate at Noonans Mayfair’s jewelry auction this week.
CollectionsJun 18, 2025
Kirk Kara Celebrates 135 Years With New JewelsTo mark the milestone, the brand is introducing new non-bridal fine jewelry designs for the first time in two decades.
SourcingJun 18, 2025
Gemfields Sells 36-Carat Rough RubyThe gemstone is the third most valuable ruby to come out of the Montepuez mine, Gemfields said.
TechnologyJun 18, 2025
Alex Brown Named President of Smithee GroupFounder and longtime CEO Ben Smithee will stay with the agency, transitioning into the role of founding partner and strategic advisor.
EditorsJun 17, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 1Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 of her favorite pieces from the jewelry collections that debuted at Couture.
ColumnistsJun 17, 2025
Peter Smith: Is Your Comp Plan a Hiring Hindrance?If you want to attract good salespeople and generate a stream of “sleeping money” for your jewelry store, then you are going to have to pay.
