Policies & IssuesSep 30, 2021
Pure Earth’s 2021 Benefit Jewelry Auction Is Pure Gold SourcingOct 07, 2021
De Beers Sells First Rough From Artisanal Mining Program
GemFair’s goal is to provide artisanal and small-scale miners with a viable, traceable path from mine to market for their diamonds.
De Beers launched GemFair in 2018 with the goal of aiding artisanal and small-scale miners. Today, the program has nearly 200 registered mining sites in the one country in which it operates, Sierra Leone.
London—The first rough diamonds sourced via GemFair, De Beers’ program for the artisanal and small-scale mining sector, have made their way from mine to market.
The parcels of diamonds from the GemFair-registered ASM sites in Sierra Leone were sold via De Beers Group Auctions during its eighth sales cycle of the year last week.
The rough diamonds offered were of “varying qualities and sizes,” De Beers said, with the largest weighing 11 carats. All the gem-quality lots found buyers.
De Beers launched GemFair in early 2018 with the aim of achieving a goal that had largely proven elusive for the diamond industry—bringing ethically sourced, traceable diamonds from the ASM sector from mine to market.
To participate, miners must meet baseline ethical sourcing standards, attend formal training sessions, and agree to ongoing monitoring.
Related stories will be right here …
The parcels of diamonds from the GemFair-registered ASM sites in Sierra Leone were sold via De Beers Group Auctions during its eighth sales cycle of the year last week.
The rough diamonds offered were of “varying qualities and sizes,” De Beers said, with the largest weighing 11 carats. All the gem-quality lots found buyers.
De Beers launched GemFair in early 2018 with the aim of achieving a goal that had largely proven elusive for the diamond industry—bringing ethically sourced, traceable diamonds from the ASM sector from mine to market.
To participate, miners must meet baseline ethical sourcing standards, attend formal training sessions, and agree to ongoing monitoring.
The program started with 14 registered ASM sites in Sierra Leone.
By the end of 2019, the program had expanded to 94 sites in the country with 1,410 workers. It finished last year with 136 sites and 1,995 workers, according to its annual report for 2020.
Today, there are 199 mine sites participating in GemFair employing an estimated 2,800 workers, De Beers said.
De Beers noted GemFair has been purchasing rough diamonds from its workers since its inception in 2018, but it had to address a number of issues before it was able to bring the stones to market.
There was the creation of the GemFair ASM Assurance Program, which is underscored by a set of standards that aim to ensure the diamonds are mined, processed, and transported in a “responsible and legitimate manner.”
De Beers also had to develop a digital traceability solution for GemFair that was both practical—meaning it had to involve tools that are durable, weatherproof, and can function in different light conditions—and risk-mitigating, like digitally supported bag-and-tag equipment and GPS location of diamonds.
And, like nearly every operation in the world, the program ran into delays and issues in 2020, as COVID-19 brought business and travel to a halt.
Steve Allan, head of GemFair, said last week’s sale of the first diamonds sourced from ASM sites is a “very exciting” milestone for the program and the artisanal miners who are part of it.
He said diamond buyers and jewelry designers have expressed a lot of interest in GemFair diamonds, and they are going to continue to find ways to bring the story of the diamonds to a wider audience.
“Despite the challenges, we are inspired by the partnerships we have built with the artisanal miners in Kono and look forward to continuing to expand and deepen our impact,” he said.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
SurveysOct 16, 2026
How Inflation, Gas Prices Will Affect Holiday Sales The NRF is expecting holiday sales to increase this year, but consumers and retailers alike are facing Grinch-like headwinds.
CollectionsOct 16, 2026
Christina Puchi’s Earrings Hold the UniverseOur Piece of the Week gathers the planets, represented by a variety of colored gemstones, in a pair of 14-karat yellow gold earrings.
IndependentsOct 16, 2026
Reeds Jewelers Expands, Relocates FlagshipThe New York-based jeweler is moving its Amherst flagship store to a larger location in nearby Snyder.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionExperience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.
MajorsOct 16, 2026
Katy Chen Appointed Executive Vice President of Graff USA Chen, who worked at Cartier and Tiffany & Co., will lead retail sales and operations for the luxury jeweler’s 11 U.S. stores.
Weekly QuizOct 15, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsOct 15, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Amy and Elise Greenberg For 40 years, sisters Amy and Elise Greenberg have helmed their 126-year-old family business, leading with appreciation and integrity.
ColumnistsOct 15, 2026
Peter Smith: What Is the Culture REP?It’s a term Smith coined and felt compelled to share following a bad experience with an aborted flight and an unfeeling flight attendant.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
WatchesOct 15, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb’s New Movado Watches Are Made for Your Wrist StackMovado teamed up with the New York-based fine jewelry designer on a new collection of Movado Museum Velura watches.
CollectionsOct 15, 2026
Wolf x Marla Aaron's New Jewelry Box Is for Some (Not All) of Your ThingsThe “Some of the Things” box follows the two larger “Everything” box designs with the look and function of antique sewing and toolboxes.
IndependentsOct 14, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Coleman and Mitchell ClarkFourth-generation jewelers Coleman and Mitchell Clark exemplify the best qualities of their predecessors: humility, modesty, and confidence.
FinancialsOct 14, 2026
LVMH’s Jewelry Brands Turn in ‘Very Good’ Performance in Q3 Tiffany & Co. continued its full-scale store renovation project while Bulgari’s high jewelry collection generated “record-breaking revenue.”
Events & AwardsOct 14, 2026
Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference Releases 2026 ProgramThis year’s sessions feature leading voices from human rights, legal, and conservation organizations.
MajorsOct 13, 2026
David Webb Owner Purchases Lugano JewelryThe high-end jewelry retailer was sold to private investment firm Middle West Partners and a group of longtime clients.
Lab-GrownOct 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Takes Lab-Grown Diamond Collection WholesaleThe jewelry designer has partnered with Sofer Jewelry to distribute her 85-piece lab-grown diamond collection.
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Sean DunnDunn, this year’s Single-Store Independent inductee, is passionate about innovation and telling the story of natural diamonds.
AuctionsOct 13, 2026
Christie's Geneva To Auction 'Bulgari Pink' DiamondThe 24-carat fancy intense pink diamond ring could fetch up to $18 million at the November sale.
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers’ New Candle Smells Like HomeThe “Island Jewel” candle honors New York City and Puerto Rico and raises money for the island’s water relief efforts.
TechnologyOct 13, 2026
GemFind Is a New JA Member Benefit Partner The partnership will give JA members access to preferred pricing, exclusive benefits, technology solutions, education, and resources.
SurveysOct 09, 2026
These Will Be the 10 Busiest Days for In-Store Shopping This Holiday SeasonStores should expect to see the most customers on Nov. 27, and Christmas week is expected to be hectic too, as Dec. 25 falls on a Friday.
CollectionsOct 09, 2026
Elisa Solomon Collabs With Serendipity 3 on ‘Frozen Hot Chocolate’ CharmThe charm, our Piece of the Week, features brown diamond frozen hot chocolate topped with white diamond whipped cream and a ruby straw.
AuctionsOct 09, 2026
8-Carat Blue Diamond Goes Unsold at UK Jewelry Auction The top lot of Elmwood’s recent fine jewelry sale in London was a 1.84-carat, D color Tiffany & Co. solitaire diamond ring.
WatchesOct 09, 2026
Movado to Sell Majority Stake in Ebel for $66.5MThe watch company agreed to sell a 95 percent interest to a group comprised of F.P. Journe, Chanel, and Swiss watch exec Pierre Jacques.
Policies & IssuesOct 08, 2026
Third Wave of IEEPA Tariff Refunds Begins This round of tariff refunds is for importers that have sued over IEEPA tariffs in the Court of International Trade and won.
CollectionsOct 08, 2026
Brent Neale’s New Collection Goes ‘Back to Basics’It revisits the brand’s most requested silhouettes, from "Pillow"-set necklaces and bracelets to "Signature"-set rings and earrings.
SourcingOct 08, 2026
Ethical Gem Fair Heads Back to BrooklynThe trade-only event includes buying opportunities as well as educational sessions on artisanal mining, the new Paraíba source, and more.
Events & AwardsOct 08, 2026
Pattons Fine Jewelry Sweeps Local Design ContestAra Chanakian, a jeweler at Pattons, took home top honors in every category at Jewelers of Louisiana’s annual jewelry design competition.
