CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.
TrendsJul 08, 2015
The History Behind … the ouroboros
Snakes have been bent, twisted and bejeweled for adornment’s sake for thousands of years. What is it about this figure--a commonly-feared reptile with scaly skin--that is so appealing to jewelry-makers?
“I do think that’s the most powerful interpretation of the snake,” Elizabeth Doyle said of the ouroboros. “That’s the purest symbol of eternity.”
New York--Snakes have been bent, twisted and bejeweled for adornment’s sake for thousands of years.
What is it about this figure--a commonly-feared reptile with scaly skin--that is so appealing to jewelry-makers?
New York jeweler Elizabeth Doyle believes the reptile’s draw lies in the fact that it has held so many different meanings. It is a very powerful symbol that has wound its way through many different cultures and religions.
To the ancient Egyptians, it represented eternal life while others equated the serpent with knowledge. In more modern times, the snake has a darker appeal, the creature that tempted Eve in the Garden of Eden and led to her being cast out of paradise but which many still try to charm.
The ouroboros, the ancient symbol of a snake eating its own tail, magnifies people’s dark fascination with these creatures by what it represents-- something devouring itself in order to survive. “That’s part of the appeal of the ouroboros,” she said. “People fear snakes but they love them.”
Doyle opened Doyle & Doyle, a New York City retail shop, with her sister Irene Pamela in 2000. The store sells vintage jewelry as well as modern collections they design in-house. Their newest collection, set to debut in September, centers on the ouroboros.
Here, Doyle talks with National Jeweler about the history behind the figure of the snake eating its own tail that’s so commonly seen in jewelry.
Where did the word “ouroboros” originate? Doyle said the word “ouroboros” is derived from the Greek terms “ouro,” meaning tail, and “boros,” which translates to eating; so literally, a tail-devouring creature. While the ouroboros is usually a snake eating its own tail, it can be a dragon as well.
When was this figure first used in jewelry? Egyptian jewelry incorporated snakes, including snakes eating their own tail.
The first reference to the ouroboros in text is traced to this time too. Doyle said that a drawing of a snake eating its own tail was discovered in the Enigmatic Book of the Netherworld, the ancient Egyptian funerary text discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamun (King Tut), which dates to the 14th century B.C.
What was the appeal of the snake for jewelry design, and of the ouroboros specifically? Because the snake sheds its skin, ancient people believed that it was regenerating itself, being born again, so the snake came to be equated
with the eternal circle of life, or eternal rejuvenation, Doyle said.
It appealed to people’s desire for a long life, vitality and youth--the same desires that exist today--and thus was seen as an auspicious creature to use as adornment.
While it is a symbol of regeneration and eternal life, there’s also a darker side to it, the idea that something has to devour itself in order to survive. “People,” Doyle observed, “really like that balance of evil and good.”
Was there a time period when the ouroboros was most popular? While snake jewelry never really went out of style the serpent motif, including the ouroboros, surged during the Victorian era because Queen Victoria liked snake jewelry and, in fact, received a green enamel snake ring from Prince Albert. The queen was like the Carrie Bradshaw or Oprah of her time; whatever she did, other people followed.
Doyle said ouroboros also were used in Victorian mourning jewelry because it could symbolize one’s eternal bond with another person. These pieces often incorporated turquoise, a gemstone that is symbolic of the idea of forget-me-not in the European tradition.
RELATED CONTENT: The History Behind ... Victorian mourning jewelry
Doyle said it also helped that the Victorian era was the first time jewelry was mass produced, making it available to those outside the upper class.
How can retailers find ouroboros designs to add to their antique or estate jewelry selection, or even their modern stock? If looking for antique ouroboros jewelry, Doyle recommends the Victorian era pieces, as they are easier to find. Georgian examples are scarce, and there’s a greater likelihood of running across fakes.
There are also plenty of modern designers incorporating the snake, including the ouroboros, into their designs.
Besides being a streamlined shape that lends itself easily to bracelets, rings, pendants and earrings, the snake also presents a long, smooth surface on which designers can engrave or etch scales or set gemstones.
“They’ve always been a part of jewelry design,” Doyle said of snakes. “You can do so much with it.”
More on Trends
The Latest
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry MomentsAssociate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal FormatSponsored by Instappraise
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.
Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New BoutiqueThe brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales ManagerCathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest AdditionSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for TariffsThe company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and BeyondConnecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest AuctionIts commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready BroochDesigner Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ ListExpanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New StoreLocated in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV SeriesThe episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in AustinThe Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to AuctionThe turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise RingSet with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple EffectThough currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship StoreLocated in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Jewelers of America Opens Applications for 2025 ScholarshipsThe deadline to apply for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship is June 12.
SurveysApr 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits Pandemic-Level Low Amid Tariff ConcernsWhat’s really worrying U.S. consumers isn’t the present situation; it’s what the economy is going to look like six months from now.
Events & AwardsApr 30, 2025
Instore Show Debuts New Name, Look, and FocusNow called The Instore Jewelry Show, it will include holiday-focused education, interactive workshops, and a window display contest.
SourcingApr 30, 2025
GemGuide Has a New Pricing Chart for Colombian EmeraldsIt includes pricing for unenhanced Colombian emeralds in the fine to extra fine range.
