Editors

A Look at Protective Jewelry Through the Ages

EditorsMay 11, 2020

A Look at Protective Jewelry Through the Ages

From Native American turtle amulets to the Italian cornicello, Associate Editor Lenore Fedow delves into the history of pieces of jewelry believed to shield the wearer.

20200511_Turtle_Header.jpg
Native American children were given turtle amulets to protect themselves from illness and promote longevity. It is one of four examples of protective jewelry Associate Editor Lenore Fedow explores in this blog post. (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/Science Museum, London. Wellcome Images)
I am a bit superstitious, to say the least.

I’d say it’s a mix of my nervous nature and my Italian-American upbringing, a culture steeped in old-world tradition with no shortage of superstitions.

Everything from placing a hat on the bed to putting new shoes on the table was a way to bring bad luck.

But for as long as we’ve believed in bad luck and curses, we’ve also believed there were ways to protect ourselves, and those included wearing jewelry.

Across cultures, jewelry has served as both adornment and protection for centuries, its beauty doubling as a safeguard for the wearer.

Join me as I take a look through some notable protective amulets throughout jewelry history.

The Cornicello

A 14-karat gold cornicello pendant by Ariel Gordon ($95). The horn-shaped pendant is believed to ward off bad intentions. (Image courtesy of Ariel Gordon website)
A 14-karat gold cornicello pendant by Ariel Gordon ($95). The horn-shaped pendant is believed to ward off bad intentions. (Image courtesy of Ariel Gordon website)

My mother was a fervent believer in “il malocchio,” or the evil eye, the belief that someone could be so jealous of you that the envy would manifest into a curse on you.

One way to protect yourself and repel the curse was to wear the cornicello, or “little horn,” a small pendant that looks like a red chili pepper.

Once made of red coral, it’s taken various forms through the years and has been embraced by jewelry designers many times over; check out these modern cornicello charms from Ariel Gordon and Loren Stewart.

In addition to protecting oneself, the symbol is thought to promote fertility and virility. 

You can still find the charms today, hanging off necklaces, keychains, and rearview mirrors, particularly in southern Italy, where my family is from, and in Italian-American neighborhoods, where my family is now. 

Similar to the superstitions surrounding pearls and opals, it’s considered bad luck to buy a cornicello for yourself.

Tau Cross

Cast and engraved gold Tau Cross pendants circa 1485 England from the Cloisters Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/shooting_Brooklyn)
Cast and engraved gold Tau Cross pendants circa 1485 England from the Cloisters Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/shooting_Brooklyn)

We’re taking it back to the first millennium to talk about the Tau Cross.

Religious jewelry as protection stretches back thousands of years, but the Tau Cross has a particularly interesting backstory.

The story has monks, poison, and demonic visions, so buckle up.

The t-shaped cross is named after the Greek letter “T” and was known to the Romans as “crux commissa,” or “connected cross” in Latin.

Also known as Saint Anthony’s Cross, it is linked to Saint Anthony of Egypt,  251-356 AD, one of the earliest monks and a founder of organized Christian monasticism. 


Anthony gave up his worldly possessions and went into the desert to live a life of fasting and solitude.

He was depicted wearing a Tau cross on his cloak and his followers did the same, adopting a black religious habit marked with a blue version of the symbol.


Saint Anthony in his cloak depicted in a 1460s woodcut (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)
Saint Anthony in his cloak depicted in a 1460s woodcut (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)


Anthony was said to experience visions brought on by the devil, taking the form of a fellow monk bringing him bread during his fasts or wild beasts attacking him.

It was believed that Anthony’s devotion to God is what helped him to repel the visions.

You know what else can make a person see visions? Ergotism, a type of poisoning caused by a fungus on grains, like rye or wheat, used to make bread.

It can lead to convulsions, as well as muscle spasms, delusions, hallucinations, and crawling sensations on the skin, all similar to what Anthony was described to have experienced. Ergotism can also cause a burning sensation in the limbs, giving it the nickname “Saint Anthony’s Fire.”

While it later became clear that bad bread was the cause of Saint Anthony’s Fire, it was long believed that wearing the Tau cross, as he had done, was a way to protect against his eponymous disease.

Tau cross pendants were worn around the neck and on clothing, but also formed into sculptures and incorporated into church window designs.

There are still followers of Saint Anthony in the Middle East, particularly in Lebanon, who wear Tau crosses on their black habits.

Today, the symbol is more widely associated with the Franciscan Order.

St. Francis of Assisi adopted the Tau symbol after hearing Pope Innocent III speak of its symbolism and power.

Turtle Amulets

Native American children received turtle amulets as tokens of protection. This one dates to between 1880 and 1920. (Image credit: Science Museum, London. Wellcome Images)
Native American children received turtle amulets as tokens of protection. This one dates to between 1880 and 1920. (Image credit: Science Museum, London. Wellcome Images)

Symbolism coupled with beautiful, intricate craftsmanship is a hallmark of Native American jewelry.

In the Lakota tradition, babies were gifted turtle-shaped amulets to protect against illness and ensure a long life.
 
The spirit of the turtle, or keya, represented life, longevity and strength.

When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was sewed into a buckskin bag, usually shaped like a turtle, and the bag was attached to the baby’s cradle to be used as a toy.

The keya was thought to protect newborns from “mni watu,” or bacteria and germs that cause illness.

 Related stories will be right here … 

The turtle was also used as a teaching tool related to the tribe’s 13-month calendar.

Upon observing changes in the moon and stars, the tribe counted 13 new moons, each with 28 days between them. The turtle mirrors this, with 13 scales on its back and 28 small scales around its shell.

For the turtle charm to work, the child would have to keep it for a lifetime. But kids will be kids, so the turtle amulet was taken away from them for a number of years so they wouldn’t lose it.

The child would get it back when she or he was older and it could then be worn on a costume or a ceremonial dress.

The cord the amulet was held on was symbolic of a tie between the child’s existence before birth and life afterward.

Hematite

Greek warriors used the red residue left behind by hematite as protective war paint. (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/KarlaPanchuk)
Greek warriors used the red residue left behind by hematite as protective war paint. (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/KarlaPanchuk)

It wouldn’t be a historical jewelry blog without input from Isabelle Corvin, staff gemologist at Panowicz Jewelers in Olympia, Washington.

Corvin has contributed to my blogs about gemstone legends and cursed gemstones, so I had to bug her again for this one.

Hematite, a gray-to-black iron ore, is one of the most interesting protective amulets, said Corvin.

Derived from the Greek word for blood, “haima,”hematite was known as the “bleeding stone” because of the reddish streak of iron oxide it leaves behind, which Greek warriors once used as war paint.

“They would use oils or heated water on the stone so that when they pressed it on the skin, the iron staining would be applied,” Corvin said.

Historical evidence about folklore can be hard to find, but “Crystal Enchantments,” by author and occult researcher D.J. Conway, had some interesting information to share about hematite.

Roman soldiers believed in its protective properties, too, as hematite was thought to be sacred to Mars, the god of war.

When scraped against something, hematite produces a red powder, and that powder was rubbed against the skin before battle.

The stone itself was also worn for protection against battle wounds.

Lawyers suiting up for a courtroom battle may also want to wear hematite, since it’s known as the “lawyer’s stone.”

Conway’s book shares the story of a Babylonian gem treaty written on behalf of Mithridates the Great (63 B.C.) that states hematite could be used “to gain favorable hearings during judgments and lawsuits, to win positive petitions before all those in authority.”

Is any of this real?

I hold onto some superstitions I grew up with, partly out of fondness and partly out of fear.

I don’t know that I wholeheartedly believe in all of them but as I write this a few months into the coronavirus pandemic, I can understand why you would want to believe that a piece of jewelry can protect you.

In times of uncertainty, when misfortune feels wide-reaching and unescapable, I understand the desire to look for a way to take control of the situation.

When the real safety measures are isolating and feel scary, it’s comforting to believe we can protect ourselves just by wearing a pendant, or rubbing some rock dirt on our skin.

Rather than searching for a magical amulet, I’ll be looking for comfort where I’ve always found it: my family, my friends, my faith, and my fuzzy companions.

All that being said, does anyone have a spare cornicello? 

Lenore Fedowis the associate editor, news at National Jeweler, covering the retail beat and the business side of jewelry.

The Latest

Jacquie Aiche Lizzie Bracelet
CollectionsNov 05, 2024
Jacquie Aiche is Hosting an Online Treasure Hunt

One lucky winner will receive a “Lizzie” diamond bracelet.

Samantha Larson
IndependentsNov 05, 2024
Long's Jewelers Names New Director of Buying

Samantha Larson has joined the Boston-based retailer.

Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program logo
Events & AwardsNov 05, 2024
JA, BIJC Now Accepting EJAP Applications for 2025

The Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program will guide retail jewelry entrepreneurs through an eight-month educational curriculum.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

Tiffany & Co. x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award
Events & AwardsNov 05, 2024
Tiffany & Co., CDFA Announce Design Award Finalists

Ten chosen designers will receive mentorship and participate in a design contest for the Tiffany & Co. x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award.

Weekly QuizOct 31, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Dana J. Lorberg
MajorsNov 04, 2024
Jewelers Mutual Appoints Mastercard Exec to Its Board

Dana J. Lorberg brings 35 years of experience in finance, technology, and strategy to the role.

FBI robbery surveillance photo
CrimeNov 04, 2024
FBI Offering $15K Reward for Info on Halloween Mask-Wearing Robbers

The suspects are said to have been involved in the armed robberies of four jewelry stores across three Midwest states.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Models wearing Black Sand Pebble ring and Surf bracelet
CollectionsNov 04, 2024
John Hardy’s New Jewels Turn the Black Sands of Bali into Diamonds

The new designs blend Creative Director Reed Krakoff’s aesthetic with the brand’s Balinese roots.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute watch
IndependentsNov 04, 2024
Eiseman Jewels is Celebrating Watches All Month-Long

The Dallas-based jeweler will showcase timepieces from Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani Fleurier, and more.

Artist Reena Ahluwalia “Pristine” painting
SourcingNov 01, 2024
Reena Ahluwalia Donates Diamond Painting to Benefit CJA

The artwork, titled “Pristine,” was raffled off at the Canadian Jewellers Association’s recent summit.

Gunderson’s Jewelers in Omaha, Nebraska
IndependentsNov 01, 2024
Gunderson’s Jewelers Opens New Location in Nebraska

The new store features a custom design studio and a bridal salon.

Sydney Evan x Wicked “Spell Book” coin charm
CollectionsNov 01, 2024
Piece of the Week: Sydney Evan Gets ‘Wicked’

Designer Rosanne Karmes has created a collection to coincide with the release of the movie musical, which is expected to be a blockbuster.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsOct 31, 2024
Charles & Colvard Faces Possible Nasdaq Delisting

The retailer said it will file the necessary paperwork to regain compliance as soon as it is able.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 31, 2024
Peter Smith: Nervous Flyers and Emotional Selling

Whether you’re calming the jittery gentleman in seat 13B or selling a diamond ring to a hesitant customer, an empathetic approach is best.

Annie E. Doresca, Grant Mobley, Alexis Padis, Terry Chandler
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
WJA Will Celebrate 4 Award Winners at ‘Future of Forty’ Gala

The gala includes a red carpet, music from DJ Renata, an awards program, and “mystery boxes.”

Instore show 2025
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
The Instore Show Returns To Chicago Area

The trade show, in its third year, will take place in late September at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Illinois.

Constance Polamalu
Lab-GrownOct 31, 2024
Q&A: Constance Polamalu on Selling Natural and Lab-Grown Diamonds

The jeweler shared her change of heart on lab-grown diamonds and why she keeps them separate from natural diamonds in her business ventures.

Gem Awards New York City
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award

The 2025 Gem Awards are scheduled to take place March 14 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

Peggy Grosz
MajorsOct 30, 2024
Peggy Grosz Leaves Assael After Company Is Sold

Grosz had served as Assael’s senior vice president and creative director since 2017.

CD Peacock Love and Celebration Rings
CollectionsOct 30, 2024
CD Peacock Honors Its Hometown of Chicago in First Bridal Collection

“Love and Celebration” is the jeweler’s first in-house collection featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and celebration rings.

Hands pushing a shopping cart
SurveysOct 30, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rebounds in October

A more positive view of the labor market contributed to the strongest monthly gain since March 2021.

Mejuri store
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
Mejuri to Award $50K in Scholarships to Jewelry Design Students

The funds will be distributed to schools in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.

Jewelers’ Security Alliance President Jennifer Mulvihill
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Cybersecurity Expert Selected as President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance

Jennifer Mulvihill, the first woman to lead JSA in the organization’s 141-year history, takes over for the retiring John Kennedy.

20241030_NYCJW.jpg
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2024
The Can’t-Miss Events of 2024 New York City Jewelry Week

This year’s festivities include more than 100 experiences, such as designer showcases, panel discussions, and even a treasure hunt.

Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi
AuctionsOct 29, 2024
Rolex Worn on Apollo 14 Mission Sells for More Than $2M

The GMT-Master “Pepsi” that belonged to astronaut Edgar Mitchell is one of two Apollo-flown Rolex watches ever sold at auction.

Pandora ambassadors Chloe Bailey, Halle Bailey, and Pamela Anderson
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Pandora’s Holiday Campaign, New Jewelry Celebrate Light and Love

The ads star brand ambassadors Chloe and Halle Bailey and Pamela Anderson.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy