Trends

The History Behind … The Squash Blossom Necklace

TrendsFeb 07, 2018

The History Behind … The Squash Blossom Necklace

The latest installment in our antique jewelry series examines the iconic Native American design.

201802XX_Squash-blossom-Heard-HEADER.jpg
A squash blossom necklace from the collection of the Heard Museum in Phoenix. Created by Zuni artist Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) in 1939, this particular squash blossom features fetish carvings of frogs in the turquoise. A Zuni trademark, fetish jewelry features animals, leaves or faces carved out of a hard material, like turquoise, coral, rocks or antlers. (Photo credit: Craig Smith with the Heard Museum, Phoenix)
New York--When one thinks of Native American jewelry, there’s likely a design that readily comes to mind.

A necklace crafted in silver and turquoise consisting of round silver beads interspersed with beads that look like they are blooming, all leading down to what looks like a horseshoe or, some would say, a crescent moon turned on its side.

Who were the first to make these necklaces that we know as squash blossoms and where did they get their name? (Hint: It is from a fruit, though maybe not the one you have in mind.) 

To learn more about the design, National Jeweler spoke with two experts on the subject: Lois Sherr Dubin, author of a number of books about Native American jewelry including “North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment” and “Jesse Monongya—Opal Bears and Lapis Skies,” and Joseph Tanner and his daughter, Emerald. The Tanners own Tanner’s Indian Arts in Gallup, New Mexico, and have a private collection of squash blossom necklaces.

Here’s what they had to say.

When were the first squash blossom necklaces made?
While squash blossom imagery can be found in petroglyphs (rock art) that pre-date European contact in the Southwest, Dubin said the squash blossom necklace was created in the late 1870s or early 1880s after the native people of the area made contact with Spanish Mexicans.

The Navajo, it is believed, were the first tribe to adopt the design, but by the early 1900s, the art form had spread to neighboring tribes, including the Zuni and the Pueblo. 

Native Americans had plenty of their own jewelry before they made contact with the European settlers, yes, but, “This particular art form … was really European-influenced,” she said.

So, we call it a “squash blossom” necklace. Where did that name originate?

The actual origins of the name are “a little loose,” Dubin said. 

The name of the necklace really grew out of the one type of bead that was, as mentioned above, developed by and credited to the Navajo, and whose name in the Navajo language translates to “bead which spreads out,” Dubin said.

While the entire necklace has taken its name from one type of bead, the classic squash blossom necklace actually has three distinct parts: the plain round beads; the round beads with the “petals,” so to speak; and the horseshoe-like pendant at the bottom called the Naja. 

There is a lot of scholarly discussion around  the topic, Dubin said, and there are two competing beliefs about the origin of the name “squash blossom.”


 Some say that the Navajo created the squash blossom after seeing the pomegranate design frequently used as decoration by the Spanish people, including on the buttons of the soldiers’ uniforms. (In parts of Spain, the pomegranate is a revered fruit; in particular, it is the heraldic symbol of the city of Granada, which is also the Spanish word for the fruit known in English as pomegranate.)

Others, meanwhile, believe that the squash blossom is exactly as advertised—a design taken from the flowery part of the squash plant, which, along with corn and beans, are the crops that Native Americans relied on in the Southwest.

“These are native plants that they would see the importance of, and I am of the belief that most native work has meaning behind it, at least originally,” Dubin said.

Regarding the plain round beads, does the number of them in between the squash blossom beads hold any meaning? 

No, Dubin said, it’s arbitrary: “There’s nothing other than the artist’s wish to make it more or less elaborate.”

Aside from the beads, the necklace also has another part, the Naja. Can you tell us a little bit about that?

“Naja” is the name the Navajo gave to a symbol believed to have originated in the Middle East in ancient times. Like some many symbols, it was created as a talisman for protection, with the Moors affixing it to their horses’ bridles to ward off the evil eye.

It ended up as the centerpiece of the squash blossom necklace in one of two ways, Dubin said.

Either the Navajo saw it on the Spanish Mexicans, or it came to the Southwest through the Plains people, the Shawnee or the Delaware. “Again, that’s unclear,” she said. “But the point is, the form itself has ancient origins.” 

In early examples of squash blossom necklaces, the Najas are strictly silver, but later Native Americans began adding turquoise and even coral to them as the design evolved over time, Joe Tanner said.

He added that the Naja is also representative of the womb, and when a squash blossom necklace features a single turquoise nugget suspended from the Naja, it is often interpreted to be symbolic of a child in the womb.

Were squash blossom necklaces worn for a specific purpose?

While the necklaces do not have a specific ceremonial use, they were worn as a symbol of one’s status, wealth and cultural belonging.

And the bigger, the better, Dubin said: “You wore your wealth in these cultures—you wore your silver, you wore your turquoise.” 

The jewelry the natives made for themselves was big and bold, employing big chunks of turquoise and heavy-gauge silver (see Della Casa Appa’s immense squash blossom necklace above), though the artists tended to scale it down when creating jewelry for tourists and non-natives.

As noted, squash blossom necklaces primarily were crafted in in silver and turquoise. Is that because these were the materials that were readily available to the Native Americans, with the silver coming from Mexico? 

Dubin said actually, Native Americans originally used the American silver dollar for their necklaces, doming two coins and then soldering them together. After the government decided they didn’t want coins being used as jewelry materials, they started using sheet silver. 

Tanner said the early squash blossom necklaces used what is called “First Phase”-style silversmithing and have a more rustic look to them. 

“But (it was) still way ahead of its time,” he noted. “The Native American artists of that time were hand-fabricating jewelry before they had all the tools that contemporary artists today have.”

Gemstone-wise, turquoise was, and still is, a very sacred stone in the Southwest. This is because, first of all, it’s a local stone that comes from “Mother Earth,” Dubin said, and though it originates in places with an arid landscape, it is blue, like water and the sky that brings water.

“It’s just the native beloved stone, a sacred stone,” she said. “You’re not Navajo, you’re not Southwest without your turquoise.” 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Joe Tanner added that though some gemologists and designers prize the clean, clear, robin’s egg blue turquoise from mines like Sleeping Beauty over stones with a heavier matrix, that’s not the case among Native American designers.

“The old medicine priests in the Southwest say if it doesn’t have the matrix and spider-webbing, then it doesn’t carry that extra strength that (they believe) these patterns bring to the gemstone,” he said.

While turquoise was the main gemstone used, squash blossom necklaces with other gemstones, including coral and mother-of-pearl, can be found.

When was this style at the height of its popularity?

According to Dubin, the squash blossom necklace peaked in the early 1970s, when the bohemian fashion trends of the time begat a turquoise craze.

“There was a frenzy of buying turquoise in the ‘70s in the Southwest, and what was swept up in that were squash blossom necklaces that were heavily inlaid with turquoise,” she said.  “And then it kind of subsided a bit.” 

But the style never completely disappeared, and while it’s not a prime art form today, it’s considered traditional, and many modern Native Americans designers still pay homage to the style. 

Joe Tanner said he sees demand for squash blossom necklaces from a younger generation. 

“Part of the reason that it’s so popular in the current retail market is that millennials buyers, they like their jewelry to look handmade,” he said. “They’re going for these more First Phase-style looks so it has the appearance that it is handmade, even in cases in which it is not.” 

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

GCALbySarine Diamond Journey Certificate_1872x1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 22, 2025
How to Put Natural Diamonds Back in the Spotlight

Sponsored by GCAL by Sarine

The late West Virginia jeweler David Ettinger
CrimeMay 22, 2025
NY Jeweler Sentenced in Shoving Death of Colleague at IJO Show

David Walton will serve three years’ probation after an incident in a hotel bar led to the death of West Virginia jeweler David Ettinger.

Watches of Switzerland store in Mall of America
FinancialsMay 22, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s Full-Year U.S. Sales Climb 14%

The retailer also provided an update on how the tariffs situation in the U.S. is affecting its business.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Jorge Adeler, Wendy Adeler, Valentina Adeler
IndependentsMay 22, 2025
Adeler Jewelers Celebrates 50 Years

The family-owned jeweler in Great Falls, Virginia, will be celebrating its golden jubilee with a year’s worth of events.

Weekly QuizMay 22, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jose Hess Design Awards 2025 Trophy
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Announce Judges

The nonprofit elected five judges who will decide the winners of its design competition.

MJSA 2025-2026 Buyer’s Guide
MajorsMay 22, 2025
MJSA Releases 2025-2026 Buyer’s Guide

This year’s edition includes articles on the favorite tools of notable designers, evaluating when to outsource production, and more.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Bulgari Invisible Violet Necklace and Rainbow Flow Necklace
CollectionsMay 21, 2025
Bulgari Highlights Its Colorful Past in Phenomenal ‘Polychroma’ Collection

The jeweler’s high jewelry collection features extraordinary gemstones, like a 241.06-carat emerald and the world’s fourth-largest spinel.

Industry analyst Edahn Golan
ColumnistsMay 21, 2025
Edahn’s Take: Analyzing the 2025 ‘$100 Million Supersellers’ List

In a special column for the State of the Majors, Edahn Golan breaks down what the top-performing fine jewelry sellers are doing right.

Beyoncé bolo tie necklace
MajorsMay 21, 2025
Beyoncé Dons Brilliant Earth Necklace During Cowboy Carter Tour

The bolo tie necklace is inspired by “Queen Bey” and set with a nearly 15-carat black diamond.

Gem Legacy logo
SourcingMay 21, 2025
Gem Legacy Expands Advisory Council

The nonprofit focused on mining communities in East Africa has added three new members to its advisory council.

Annie Doresca
MajorsMay 20, 2025
Annie Doresca to Lead DCA as New CEO, President

Current Diamond Council of America President and CEO Terry Chandler is set to retire in January 2026.

QVC Group logo
FinancialsMay 20, 2025
QVC Group to Voluntarily Delist from Nasdaq

The company's Series A shares will continue to trade following a reverse stock split while its Series B shares will be delisted.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsMay 20, 2025
Peter Smith: Leading Through Change

Communicating clearly with your staff is key to navigating turbulent times, writes columnist Peter Smith.

Luis Morais Miami Beach Flagship Interior
IndependentsMay 20, 2025
Luis Morais Opens Flagship, Launches Collection Celebrating 25 Years

The “Inner Journey” collection debuted as the brand celebrated its 25th anniversary, with designs inspired by Morais’ journey.

Exterior of Tanishq Santa Clara Storefront
MajorsMay 20, 2025
Tanishq Opens Seventh U.S. Store

Tanishq is expanding its presence in the United States with a new store in Santa Clara, California, which is its largest in the country.

New Cartier store at Los Angeles airport
FinancialsMay 19, 2025
Jewelry Sales a Standout for Richemont in 2024

Sales for Richemont’s four jewelry brands increased 8 percent, while watch sales picked up toward the end of the year.

Instappraise and NAJA logos
Events & AwardsMay 19, 2025
NAJA Opens Scholarship Applications for 2025

Two scholarships are available, one for new and non-members and another for NAJA certified members.

Day’s Jeweler’s Tuscan Village Location Painting
IndependentsMay 19, 2025
Day’s Jewelers to Open Ninth Location

The retailer’s new flagship is set to open in October at the Tuscan Village development in Salem, New Hampshire.

Gemfields emeralds, rubies, sapphires
SourcingMay 19, 2025
State of Colored Stones: The Big Three in the Modern World

Sapphires, emeralds, and rubies are finding their place in a U.S. market captivated by the gemstones once referred to as “semi-precious.”

Saks on Amazon flagship window
MajorsMay 16, 2025
Saks Fifth Avenue, Amazon Partner on Luxury Online Storefront

Plus, parent company Saks Global announces plans to cut ties with up to 600 vendors.

Graphic for My Next Question webinar with guest Peter Smith
Recorded WebinarsMay 16, 2025
Watch: Physical Retail Is Not Dead

Peter Smith joined Michelle Graff to chat about the state of brick-and-mortar stores and share a few book and podcast recommendations.

Tejen Candy Bowl Torque Necklace
CollectionsMay 16, 2025
Piece of the Week: Tejen’s ‘Candy Bowl’ Torque Necklace

The necklace features a candy-colored Australian white opal in 18-karat Fairmined gold, as the brand was named a Fairmined ambassador.

1 Camilla Dietz Bergeron.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 15, 2025
Treasure Hunting at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

The Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 15, 2025
'The Mediterranean Blue' Diamond Sells for $21M at Sotheby’s

A private American collector purchased the 10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond.

Jessica McCormack Fruit Salad Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 15, 2025
Jessica McCormack’s ‘Fruit Salad’ Collection Is Fresh for Summer

The designer has taken the appeal of freshly picked fruit and channeled it into a capsule collection of earrings, necklaces, and pendants.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy