TrendsFeb 07, 2018
The History Behind … The Squash Blossom NecklaceTrendsFeb 29, 2016
The History Behind … 1970s Style
With the big, bold yellow gold jewelry of the ‘70s making a comeback, National Jeweler takes a look back at the social and cultural forces that originally shaped this decade of design.
New York--The 1970s is a decade that never seems to go out of style.
This fall, the fashion runways in New York were full of fringe, suede and flares plus plenty of autumnal colors, and jewelry is following suit.
This fall, the fashion runways in New York were full of fringe, suede and flares plus plenty of autumnal colors, and jewelry is following suit.
This 18-karat yellow gold and diamond pavé cuff by New York designer Fern Freeman is a modern piece but contains two elements oft-used in ‘70s style: yellow gold and fringe.
Yellow gold is back in a big way--illustrated by both large, gold links and more delicate pieces with fringe--turquoise can been seen in a lot of pieces and there’s a definite penchant for layering, even if the price of gold today has dramatically reduced the size of chains and pendants for most people.
Patricia Faber, who co-owns New York City’s Aaron Faber Gallery with her husband, took the time to tell us about one very fun era in fashion.
What shaped the aesthetic of jewelry in the 1970s?
“I think it was driven by counterculture,” Faber said, meaning: Woodstock, LSD, rock music and people protesting against the war and pushing for civil rights.
“Counterculture people, the rock stars, were not buying high fashion, but high fashion started to look like what they were wearing. They were influencing [it].”
Yes, there was still bridal jewelry and traditional fine jewelry being made, but in the early 1970s there was also the mainstream acceptance of the youth movement, the hippie subculture, that began in isolated pockets in the mid-1960s.
For example, Chanel came out with a long, flowy printed dress that looked like what hippies wore to the beach or to outdoor concerts like Woodstock.
As the decade wore on, clothing became more tailored but there were still bold color combinations, flared pants and loud prints (perhaps due in part to the LSD); think Pucci and the patterns on Diane Von Furstenberg’s then-new creation, the wrap dress.
Jewelry had to be bold to stand out against all the styles of this era, resulting in thick yellow gold chains worn in layers, brightly colored gemstones like turquoise and long beaded necklaces.
What else was popular during this era?
Faber said the 1970s was also a time when jewelry artists were creating really large pieces.
“Nobody,” she said, “was afraid to be bold.”
David Webb and his outstanding animal cuffs were popular alongside well-known brands like Boucheron and Bulgari.
There were also the big rings of London-based designer Andrew Grima, Cartier’s Aldo Cipullo creating chunky necklaces set with stones like jade and carnelian alongside the smaller gold pieces he’s so well known for, and Vivianna Torun making giant pieces under the Georg Jensen brand.
Donning big, bold jewels--including extremely oversized pieces of body jewelry--was a way of expressing oneself and experimenting with body decoration, much in the way that tattoos are used today.
“In jewelry, there were a lot of really wild pieces that were designed and made” in the 1970s, Faber said.
What gemstones and metals were popular?
People wanted big, bold gemstones to stand out against their flowy outfits and loud prints, and that’s what they got.
Turquoise was widely used, as were malachite and lapis lazuli, with Faber noting, “When you are working in a large scale, something that is less expensive is desirable.”
As for metals, the decade was all about yellow gold, as the metal enjoyed continued popularity from the ‘60s. Faber said the warm hue fit in with the autumnal colors, the oranges and the browns, that dominated interior design in that era.
The popularity of gold in that era also had a more practical aspect: It was relatively inexpensive in the early years of the decade.
Before 1971, when President Richard Nixon took the United States off the gold standard, the price of gold was fixed at $35 an ounce. In today’s terms, this would be the equivalent of gold costing about $220 an ounce.
On average, the gold price stayed below $100 an ounce until about 1974, before it began rising in earnest toward the end of the decade, topping $600 an ounce on average by 1980, historical data from Kitco.com shows.
“So much of jewelry style comes from, can you get it? And, do you have the technology to work with it?” Faber observed.
Should retailers dive into the ‘70s resurgence and/or add some 1970s-era estate pieces to their inventory?
Faber said it depends on the retailer and their customer because, like the Retro Modern (1940s) period, the design is very bold. It isn’t for everyone.
For those retailers who feel a connection to the era--and have a customer who would too--Faber suggested they buy a few 1970s estate pieces to mix in with the modern ‘70s-inspired looks.
This way, they can showcase the old alongside the new and have a story to tell customers: Here is an actual piece from the era contrasted with a modern designer’s take on that look today.
“It wasn’t necessarily an easy time,” Faber said of the 1970s. “But … it was a really fun period.”
More on Trends
The Latest
Policies & IssuesNov 14, 2025
U.S., Switzerland Reach Deal That Drops Tariff to 15%The Swiss government announced the deal, which cuts the tax on Swiss imports by more than half, on social media Friday morning.
AuctionsNov 14, 2025
Napoleon’s Diamond Brooch Blows Away Auction Estimates A buyer paid $4.4 million for the piece, which Napoleon wore on his hat for special occasions and left behind when he fled Waterloo.
FinancialsNov 14, 2025
Richemont’s Q2 Jewelry Sales Up 12%Plus, how tariffs and the rising price of gold are affecting its watch and jewelry brands.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
CollectionsNov 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Butterflies in Flight’ Jewelry BoxFurmanovich designed the box to hold Mellerio’s “Color Queen,” a high jewelry collection consisting of 10 rings.
Weekly QuizNov 13, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsNov 14, 2025
JCK Names New Event DirectorJennifer Hopf, who has been with JCK since 2022, will lead the execution of the long-running jewelry trade show.
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
127-Year-Old New Orleans Jeweler to CloseAdler’s Jewelry is set to close its two stores as 82-year-old owner Coleman E. Adler II retires.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for MembersFrom educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.
IndependentsNov 13, 2025
Green Lake Jewelry Works to Move to New Seattle StudioFounder Jim Tuttle shared how a dedication to craftsmanship and meaningful custom jewelry fueled the retailer’s double-digit growth.
MajorsNov 13, 2025
Vahan Jewelry Founder Leon ‘Sacha’ Der Calousdian Dies at 85The third-generation jeweler is remembered as a passionate creative with a love of art, traveling and sailboat racing.
CrimeNov 12, 2025
Father, Son Jewelers in Chicago Victims in Double Homicide JSA and Cook County Crime Stoppers are both offering rewards for information leading to the arrest of the suspect or suspects involved.
AuctionsNov 12, 2025
‘Mellon Blue’ Diamond Sells for $7M Less Than It Did a Decade AgoA buyer paid $25.6 million for the diamond at Christie’s on Tuesday. In 2014, Sotheby’s sold the same stone for $32.6 million.
AuctionsNov 12, 2025
Historic Rolex Oyster Fetches $1.7M at Sotheby’sMercedes Gleitze famously wore the watch in her 1927 swim across the English Channel, a pivotal credibility moment for the watchmaker.
GradingNov 12, 2025
It’s Time: GIA’s Express Holiday Service Is Back GIA is offering next-day services for natural, colorless diamonds submitted to its labs in New York and Carlsbad.
MajorsNov 10, 2025
Jewelers Focus on Love, Joy In 2025 Holiday Campaigns Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, and Pandora have launched holiday campaigns depicting their jewelry as symbols of affection and happiness.
SurveysNov 10, 2025
5 Things Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This YearThe National Retail Federation is bullish on the holidays, forecasting retail sales to exceed $1 trillion this year.
AuctionsNov 10, 2025
300+ Colored Diamonds Up for Auction at Christie’sLate collector Eddy Elzas assembled “The Rainbow Collection,” which is offered as a single lot and estimated to fetch up to $3 million.
EditorsNov 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: An MVP’s Sapphire Tennis Necklace At the 2025 World Series, the Los Angeles Dodgers’ Yoshinobu Yamamoto sported a custom necklace made by California retailer Happy Jewelers.
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food RescueAll proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New PresidentCourtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3 De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.
AuctionsNov 05, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Designer Makes Her Auction DebutKindred Lubeck of Artifex has three rings she designed with Anup Jogani in Sotheby’s upcoming Gem Drop sale.
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”
