Grading

Stuller acquires De Beers’ melee screener

GradingMay 11, 2016

Stuller acquires De Beers’ melee screener

Sightholder and supplier Stuller Inc. is one of two United States companies now using De Beers’ Automated Melee Screening device, which is designed to tell small lab-grown diamonds from natural ones. 


The AMS device developed by De Beers’ International Institute of Diamond Grading&Research shoots stones out into one of five bins: pass, refer, refer Type II, non-diamond and purge, for when the user needs to abort the current test and star
Lafayette, La.--Sightholder and supplier Stuller Inc. is one of two United States companies now using De Beers’ Automated Melee Screening device, which is designed to tell small lab-grown diamonds from natural ones. 

Stanley Zale, Stuller’s vice president of diamonds and gemstones, said Monday that the company purchased one of the machines and received it two weeks ago. While Stuller did consider using the machine to test stones for their retail customers, the company has opted to use it only for its own inventory. 

Stuller began running melee through the AMS device right away and, so far, hasn’t found a single lab-grown diamond among the thousands of stones it’s scanned, Zale says. 

He says the same is true for the HRD D-screening the company has been doing for years on diamonds 20 points and larger to check for synthetics. This process allows Stuller to detect if a diamond is Type IIa, which is rare in nature but common among lab-grown diamonds, and send it to a grading laboratory for further testing if so. 

To date, none of those diamonds have come back as lab-grown either, though Zale says having the HRD D-screening and AMS device are necessary today. “This is an insurance policy for the integrity of our business,” he says. 

RELATED CONTENT: De Beers deploys first wave of melee screeners

De Beers began deploying its AMS device in early July to sightholders around the world. Mumbai-based Kiran Gems along with Tasaki and Rosy Blue in Japan are among those companies using the machine. De Beers could not release the name of the second U.S. company to have one of the AMS devices by press time. 

The AMS device screens stones between 1 point (1.3 mm) and 20 points (3.8 mm) in size, automatically feeding the stones table-down into a testing station and then dispensing them into separate bins indicating if they pass (are natural diamonds), need further testing, or are not diamonds at all. 

It takes up to 500 carats of colorless or near-colorless melee at a time and scans one stone every 10 seconds. The cost of the AMS device, which can be left to run

unattended, is $55,000 plus a three-year, $10,000-a-year support and maintenance charge, according to De Beers. 

Stanley said in receiving the machine from De Beers, Stuller also receiving a set of statistical sampling guidelines for testing melee--i.e., for every “X” number of carats of melee, run “X” percentage through the machine--noting, “You cannot check every stone. It’s not reasonable. It’s not realistic.”  

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Georgia May Jagger in Tommy Hilfiger campaign
FinancialsMar 23, 2026
Movado’s Q4 Sales Rise As Demand Grows From Younger Shoppers, Women

Movado CEO Efraim Grinberg noted continued strength in the fashion watch and accessible luxury segments in the U.S.

Marco Bicego Art of Craft Campaign Imagery
TrendsMar 23, 2026
Marco Bicego’s New Campaign Showcases ‘The Art of Craft’

After celebrating 25 years in 2025, the campaign marks a new chapter for the jewelry brand with the message that “Identity Creates Value.”

NYPD robbery media
CrimeMar 23, 2026
NYPD Looking for 3 Jewelry Store Robbery Suspects

The group of women allegedly robbed two Catbird stores and one Gorjana location on the afternoon of March 9.

GIA iD100®
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Couture Time to Watches logo
Events & AwardsMar 23, 2026
These Watch Brands Are Heading to Couture This Year

Couture and Time to Watches announced the watch brands, from big names to independents, attendees will see at the show.

Weekly QuizMar 19, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Macy’s New York City Herald Square flagship
FinancialsMar 20, 2026
Macy’s Turnaround Plans Shows Promise, Boosted by Bloomingdale’s

Plus, why Saks Global’s bankruptcy may have given Bloomingdale’s an edge.

Jwaneng Diamond
AuctionsMar 20, 2026
Sotheby's, De Beers Unveil ‘Jwaneng 28.88’ Diamond

The flawless, Type IIa stone is estimated to achieve up to $2.8 million at the auction house’s high jewelry sale in April.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Tiffany & Co.’s Three Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Archives Brooches
TrendsMar 20, 2026
‘Frankenstein’ Costume Designer Is Bejeweled In Brooches for Oscars Win

Costume designer Kate Hawley wore three archival Tiffany & Co. brooches, our Pieces of the Week, while accepting her first Oscar.

Women wearing Zales jewelry
FinancialsMar 19, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Close 100 Stores, Shutter James Allen Banner

The jewelry retailer announced changes to its store network and brand portfolio during its fourth-quarter earnings call.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysMar 19, 2026
NRF Forecasts 4% Retail Sales Growth in 2026

From a weaker labor market to inflation, NRF Chief Economist Mark Mathews gave insight on what retailers can expect this year.

26.36 carat round brilliant cut white diamond
AuctionsMar 19, 2026
26-Carat Diamond Tops $1M at Auction

The historic stone, which sold at Elmwood’s in London, is the largest white diamond to be offered on the U.K. market in more than a decade.

JCK Rocks Nelly Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 19, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With Nelly

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach in Las Vegas on May 31.

Lady Wardington and diamond-clip brooch
AuctionsMar 18, 2026
Collection of the ‘Severely Beautiful’ Lady Wardington Fetches $161K

The model and fashion editor’s gold evening bags were the top lots at the London sale, going for more than $25,000 each.

My Next Question Episode 3 guest Johnny Nelson
PodcastsMar 18, 2026
Episode 3: An Interview With Jewelry Designer Johnny Nelson

Fresh off winning the David Yurman Gem Awards Grant, Nelson discusses the ring that launched his career and his plans for the future.

Lucara blue diamond
SourcingMar 18, 2026
Lucara Recovers Nearly 37-Carat Blue Diamond

The “stunning” Type IIb stone was found via x-ray technology at its Karowe mine in Botswana.

Stuller The Basics of Jewelry
MajorsMar 18, 2026
Stuller Releases New Edition of Jewelry Education Book

“The Basics of Jewelry” has been updated to include modern topics and visuals.

Mark and Candy Udell on stage at the 2026 Gem Awards
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2026
The Best Moments From the 2026 Gem Awards

Held just before the Oscars, the jewelry industry’s big awards show had its share of standout jewelry, gowns, and acceptance speeches.

Winter Tourmaline
SourcingMar 17, 2026
Cruzeiro Mine Debuts ‘Winter Tourmaline’

The Brazilian mine’s new collection features cabochons in soft, muted shades like silver and lilac.

Natalie Portman in Tiffany & Co. Jewelry
TrendsMar 17, 2026
Natalie Portman Is Tiffany & Co.’s New Ambassador

The Academy Award-winning actress stars in Tiffany & Co.’s latest commercial, which debuted Sunday night during the Oscars.

Jean-Marc Duplaix
MajorsMar 17, 2026
Kering Establishes Jewelry Division, Appoints CEO

The organizational change follows Kering’s promise of a transformation after declining sales in 2025.

Anne Hathaway and Rose Byrne
EditorsMar 16, 2026
2026 Oscars Jewelry: One Necklace After Another

Natalie Francisco rounds up the top Oscars jewels, including Rose Byrne’s Taffin necklace with a more than 20-carat yellow-brown diamond.

Tag Heuer CEO Béatrice Goasglas
WatchesMar 16, 2026
TAG Heuer Has a New CEO

Béatrice Goasglas has been with TAG Heuer since 2018. She is the first woman to head the 166-year-old, LVMH-owned watch brand.

Ben Bridge Jeweler Honolulu boutique
IndependentsMar 16, 2026
Ben Bridge Debuts New Honolulu Boutique

The store features the first in-store build for the jeweler’s in-house “Bella Ponte” bridal brand.

Bonhams fine jewelry Paris
AuctionsMar 16, 2026
Bonhams Paris To Offer Antique, Signed Jewels

The live fine jewelry auction will take place later this week, showcasing antique pieces, rare gemstones, and signed jewels.

Silvia Furmanovich Horse Mane Earrings, Cece Jewellery Underworld Triptych Necklace, Almasika Invictus Flower Brooch
CollectionsMar 13, 2026
A Trio of Jewels from the 3 Gem Award Nominees for Jewelry Design

Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.

Vera Wang
WatchesMar 13, 2026
Citizen, Vera Wang to Launch Watch Collection

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy