The top-performing watch models may be surprising, with Rolex and several popular pandemic-era picks notably absent from the top 20.
Stuller acquires De Beers’ melee screener
Sightholder and supplier Stuller Inc. is one of two United States companies now using De Beers’ Automated Melee Screening device, which is designed to tell small lab-grown diamonds from natural ones.
Stanley Zale, Stuller’s vice president of diamonds and gemstones, said Monday that the company purchased one of the machines and received it two weeks ago. While Stuller did consider using the machine to test stones for their retail customers, the company has opted to use it only for its own inventory.
Stuller began running melee through the AMS device right away and, so far, hasn’t found a single lab-grown diamond among the thousands of stones it’s scanned, Zale says.
He says the same is true for the HRD D-screening the company has been doing for years on diamonds 20 points and larger to check for synthetics. This process allows Stuller to detect if a diamond is Type IIa, which is rare in nature but common among lab-grown diamonds, and send it to a grading laboratory for further testing if so.
To date, none of those diamonds have come back as lab-grown either, though Zale says having the HRD D-screening and AMS device are necessary today. “This is an insurance policy for the integrity of our business,” he says.
RELATED CONTENT: De Beers deploys first wave of melee screeners
De Beers began deploying its AMS device in early July to sightholders around the world. Mumbai-based Kiran Gems along with Tasaki and Rosy Blue in Japan are among those companies using the machine. De Beers could not release the name of the second U.S. company to have one of the AMS devices by press time.
The AMS device screens stones between 1 point (1.3 mm) and 20 points (3.8 mm) in size, automatically feeding the stones table-down into a testing station and then dispensing them into separate bins indicating if they pass (are natural diamonds), need further testing, or are not diamonds at all.
It takes up to 500 carats of colorless or near-colorless melee at a time and scans one stone every 10 seconds. The cost of the AMS device, which can be left to run
Stanley said in receiving the machine from De Beers, Stuller also receiving a set of statistical sampling guidelines for testing melee--i.e., for every “X” number of carats of melee, run “X” percentage through the machine--noting, “You cannot check every stone. It’s not reasonable. It’s not realistic.”
The Latest

The “Scroll” toggle pendant, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal a hidden message, mantra, or love letter written on washi paper.

Jewelers who misinterpret the state of the jewelry market risk employing the wrong retail strategy, cautions columnist Sherry Smith.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

In her newly expanded role, she will continue to oversee the jewelry category, as well as watches, home, and accessories.


“The Godfather II” watch plays two melodies from the mob film’s score, “The Godfather’s Waltz” and “The Godfather Love Theme.”

Organizers have also introduced the new JCK Talks Signature Series, as well as an offering of watch-focused workshops and lectures.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The Alan Hodgkinson Medal recognizes gemologists who are consistently generous with their time and expertise.

The Swiss watchmaker is changing up its executive leadership team as part of a restructuring.

The “What’s Your Signature?” campaign invites women to think about how they see themselves.

The big diamond’s sale added to the company’s revenue though the market remains “challenging” overall, particularly for smaller goods.

Rob Bates of The Jewelry Wire will also moderate a panel on the state of the jewelry industry during the virtual event.

The Jewelry Symposium will honor two industry veterans with lifetime achievement awards at its upcoming May event.

With their durability, brilliance, and beauty, diamonds are the perfect stone for everyday birthstone jewelry.

The retailer failed to file its annual report on time and said it may issue a going concern warning.

Smith recounts a recent trip to the post office that included an uncomfortable, embarrassing, and public exchange between two employees.

Founder Erica Silverglide has designed 35 colorful pieces set with fluorescing gemstones for the brand's first finished jewelry offering.

“Ukrainian Jewelry | Contemporary Jewelry and Art Jewelry from Ukraine” features 33 contemporary Ukrainian designers and studios.

“The Golden Now” campaign celebrates the here and now with the brand’s signature styles and a selection of its new pieces.

Signet confirmed that Caffie, president of Zales and Banter, and Bentzen, who headed Blue Nile, have left the company.

The antique jewelry dealer talks about the importance of including Black Americans in jewelry history and preserving their stories.

Both its mines faced challenges last year, from operational issues to disruptions in the market.

Iconic pieces, like the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara, appear in the superstar’s new music video for her song inspired by the actress.

The luxury retailer, which went Chapter 11 in January, announced Thursday that it has secured $500 million in exit financing.

The NouvelleBox ballroom will feature independent jewelry designers, including Lene Vibe, Wyld Box Jewelry, and Kiaia Limited.

The one-of-a-kind locket, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal three hidden images to keep close to your heart.



























