Editors

Preaching to the KP choir?

EditorsJun 08, 2011

Preaching to the KP choir?

A number of interesting points came up last Thursday in Las Vegas during a Kimberley Process (KP) panel held at the JCK show. I just wish there had been more people there to hear them. To open the meeting, World...

A number of interesting points came up last Thursday in Las Vegas during a Kimberley Process (KP) panel held at the JCK show. I just wish there had been more people there to hear them.

To open the meeting, World Diamond Council President Eli Izhakoff told attendees that he believes the KP soon will be able to come to an agreement over exports from Zimbabwe. (The KP’s Working Group on Monitoring approved exports from the country based on a number of conditions at a meeting held recently in Dubai. Zimbabwe rejected those conditions but the stalemate is expected to be resolved -- and exports allowed to continue -- at a KP meeting scheduled for later this month.)

During the discussion, Izhakoff raised the need for KP reforms, namely to establish some kind of permanent staff for the system and change the voting structure. Currently, the KP’s bylaws dictate that complete consensus is needed to move forward on any issue. Izhakoff said the system needs to be changed to allow a supermajority vote (a vote that exceeds a simple majority, which is more than 50 percent) to be enough for issues to be approved.

To me, the whole voting system issue is a giant Catch-22.

How are you going to get everybody to vote for switching the voting system when the center of your argument is that the KP has a difficult time moving forward on issues for that same reason: that it can’t get everybody on the same page? Perhaps some parties at all times--or maybe we should say all parties at some times--view complete consensus as working in their favor. They don’t like a proposal or issue and all they have to do is raise their hand and say “no.” It takes only one vote to throw a wrench into the entire system.

It seems to me that if those involved in the KP believed that they could reach a consensus on the voting issue, which has been afoot for some time now, then the issue would have been solved long ago.

Outside of Izhakoff, Brad Brooks-Rubin, the special advisor on conflict diamonds to the U.S. State Department, raised an interesting possibility when he mentioned that the Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act, which already contains a section addressing the issue of “conflict” minerals, could be expanded to include diamonds. He also noted that if the KP did break

down, the U.S. government would remain vigilant about conflict diamonds.

“If the KP falls apart Congress won’t simply repeal the Clean Diamond Trade Act and say, ‘That was a nice experiment. Let’s go back to the way things were,’” he said.

Susan Jacques, a Zimbabwe native and the president and CEO of Borsheims, added frank insight from the retail perspective when she detailed how she called her suppliers and told them Borsheims wouldn’t be dealing in any diamonds from Zimbabwe. She said the suppliers told her that she was unfamiliar with how the supply chain works and that it was going to be nearly impossible to guarantee that because of the lack of traceability.

Her response to them: Change the system.

“I cannot control what the government of my homeland does,” she said. “Can I control that I don’t want those goods in my store? Yes I can.”

(It’s probably worth noting here that Borsheims is one of a handful of retailers already involved in De Beers’ branded diamond program, the Forevermark. One of the main highlights of the program is that De Beers can essentially trace the stones from its mines to market and guarantee they are conflict-free.)

The one bright spot on the panel were the comments of Diamond Empowerment Fund board co-president Dr. Benjamin Chavis, who said that activist and former President of South African Nelson Mandela is firm believer in the mission of the KP.

Chavis also cited a report that came out last month detailing the strongest economies in Africa. The nations topping the list were those that produce diamonds, he said.

“When a consumer buys diamonds they should also know they are buying diamonds that help empower African nations, and that message sometimes gets lost,” he said. “The issue is not whether or not we need the Kimberley Process but how to strengthen it.”

Looking around the room during Thursday’s discussion, I was pleased—and at the same time dismayed—that I recognized many of the faces. I saw a number of my fellow industry trade journalists, representatives from groups such as the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and diamond dealers I know from 47th Street, among others.

With the room only about half-full, and many of the attendees immediately recognizable to me, I had to wonder: How many retailers actually attended this session? And, if they didn’t come because they were busy with other appointments or simply don’t think it’s a big issue for their store, how many will read this blog?

On May 24, I blogged about the Forevermark. At the conclusion of the piece, I asked retailers for feedback on how important they felt the issue of the KP and conflict-free diamonds were to their customers. I received only one comment. And stories about Robert Mugabe, Zimbabwe or the Kimberley Process rarely show up as the “Most Popular” or “Most E-mailed” on NJ’s site.

I’ll be curious to see if this blog is any different.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Gretchen Koback Pursel
MajorsSep 08, 2026
Former Tiffany & Co. Exec Joins Exemplar Luxury Group

Gretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.

Frederick (Ricky) Wilkinson Bromberg
IndependentsSep 08, 2026
Ricky Bromberg, Longtime President of Bromberg & Co., Dies at 67

Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.

Zahn Z Zaha rainbow sapphire ring
TrendsSep 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Hot Take on September’s Birthstone

With high durability and a wide range of colors to choose from, sapphires may be the ultimate birthstone, Gizzi claims.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

The Retail Smiths principal and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsSep 08, 2026
Peter Smith: Humor Is No Laughing Matter

Laughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.

Weekly QuizSep 03, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Rendering of renovated Orloff Jewelers store
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better Location

The California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.

Chelsea Gabrielle Momentum Infinite Ring
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring

A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

JCK Industry Fund logo
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 Applications

The deadline to apply is Nov. 13.

Remi Guillemin
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of Watches

The auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.

Jewelers of America logo
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.

Robert Pattinson Jaeger-LeCoultre
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand Ambassador

The British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.

Sydney Evan Little Love Open Coin Fixed Necklace
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New Collections

The “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi Scheme

Nelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.

Sandy Lerner’s 18-karat gold and diamond cat brooch
AuctionsSep 02, 2026
If You Love Cats, This Jewelry Auction Is for You

Cat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.

Arnaud Michon
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of Americas

Arnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.

Glitter in the Grove Logo
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’

The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.

Stainless steel Patek Philippe Calatrava watch
AuctionsSep 01, 2026
UK Woman Uncovers Rare Patek Philippe Watch in Mom’s Jewelry Box

The stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.

Smart Age Solutions founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsSep 01, 2026
Your Jewelry Marketing Has a Bridal Problem

Engagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Charlotte Fournet and Krizia Cucurachi
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Kering Names New Pomellato, DoDo CEOs

Former Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.

Anne Marie Shulman
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Anne Marie Shulman Joins GPA Global

The veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.

Photo of one of the suspects in theft of Queen Nazli’s necklace from MAK museum
CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum

Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).

Ethiopian paraiba tourmaline
GradingAug 31, 2026
GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab Confirm New Paraíba Tourmaline Deposit in Ethiopia

The labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.

Levinger & Bissenger silver floral pendant
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition

“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Catbird First Men’s Collection Worn Well
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry Collection

The “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.

Buddha Mama Butterfly Necklace
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace

This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.

Gareth Penny
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary Congress

The former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy