Trends

Alexis Bittar: Street merchant turned global giant

TrendsAug 15, 2016

Alexis Bittar: Street merchant turned global giant

In a profile by contributor Lilian Raji, the jewelry designer known for use of Lucite reflects on 25 years of design, business lessons and breaking down the stigma that surrounds aging.


Alexis Bittar
A quick Internet search will reveal just about every detail of Alexis Bittar’s reign as the “Lucite King,” as hailed by Dawn Mello, former Bergdorf Goodman president, in a 2012 New York Times article

So when I sat down to interview Bittar, I insisted he tell me something that hasn’t already been covered.

“Janet Goldman was my first order,” he said.

Really? Fragments’ Janet Goldman?

“Yes. For 15 years, I had an antique quilt that I would lay out on the street in SoHo, selling my handmade jewelry. This was in the early ‘80s, back before what you see now in SoHo. No one else was doing it at that time--it was just me and two other vendors,” Bittar recalled.

“I used to set up the quilt on the corner of Prince and Greene [in front of the original Fragments location].  I wasn’t sure if I wanted to sell to stores at that time. But one day, I decided to show Janet and Jimmy (Moore, Goldman’s longtime business partner who died in 2009) my collection. They bought on the spot. Janet was my first order and she put my pieces in (Henri) Bendel.”

Never in a million years could one imagine that any of the jewelry vendors selling their wares along the Lower Manhattan streets of SoHo on any given Sunday would one day build an empire as vast as Bittar’s.  But that’s exactly what’s happened.

With presence in all major U.S. department stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as hundreds of independent retailers across 40 countries in five continents--not to mention his 13 Alexis Bittar boutiques up and down both coasts--Bittar is living a dream. 

“I never went to fashion school, never learned the traditional ways of building a business. I never even had a real job before. I went from selling on the street to opening my company.”

And the rest, as they say, is history, which is fitting really, as Bittar has a profound love of history, and particularly, jewelry with its own history.

Introduced to antiques by his dealer parents, Bittar’s first bauble love came from sifting through a pile of antique jewelry at age 11. He was mesmerized by the detailed, sculptural eloquence of vintage craftsmanship, something rarely seen in today’s modern jewelry. An exploration of the use of Bakelite in jewelry design in

1930s lead him to his signature material, Lucite.

Inspired by Bakelite’s transformation from an industrial product to a fashion accessory, Bittar similarly restyled Lucite, applying French designer Rene Lalique’s technique of carving and fusing glass to the industrial plastic. Twenty-five years later, he remains obsessed with the versatile material, finding new dimensions for sculpting and manipulating its vast potential for optical color play. 

Beyond craftsmanship, however, Bittar admitted the legacy of a vintage piece is often a bigger appeal for him.

“Whether it’s Georgian or Victorian, or 1700s or 1960s, there’s so much history in these little miniscule sculptures that I find intriguing. Not only in how they were created, but how they get passed from person to person.  There’s so much transferred history,” Bittar said. “When you’re holding an antique piece of jewelry and it’s 150 years old, there’s a feeling of wanting to cherish it. You become amazed at how it’s made it through all of these years to now be in your hand.”

Bittar’s profound respect for legacy is, perhaps, behind his fondness for using older models in advertising campaigns.

“In the years I’ve spent in this business, doing 15 personal appointments per year and meeting thousands of women, I realized most women have a real shade about their age. This is really being compounded and driven home by advertising and images in the media. I started getting very political about showing more mature women in advertising.”

Six years ago, the legendary Joan Collins became his first mature muse, followed by original supermodel, Lauren Hutton.  Up next were Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley, the iconic stars of the British sitcom Absolutely Fabulous

“I want to fight the message of looking at a 20-year-old model--whose images have been retouched--and having all women look at that one age like, ‘this is what we all need to look like.’ Yes, the 20-year-old is beautiful, and so is the 28-year-old and so is the 35-year-old, and the 48-year-old and 55-year-old.  It’s just a horrific thing to watch the world forget women 35 to 95,” Bittar said.

His latest advertising campaign pairs youth with experience, bringing together wunderkind Tavi Gavinson with the queen mother of fashion, Iris Apfel. With this campaign, Bittar wanted to show a 19-year-old still at the beginning of an already notable career alongside an illustrious, galvanizing 93-year-old woman whose own career doesn’t look to be ending any time soon.

“I wanted to show the breadth of age,” Bittar explained. “To look at age as something to celebrate; that what a person accomplishes in their lifetime is much sexier than trying to force yourself to fit into a box to look younger and younger, and to really look at having a full life … whether running for politics or having an amazing family, whatever that accomplishment means to you.”

Regarding his own accomplishment, from literally selling on Manhattan’s streets on an antique quilt to having both the First Lady and Lady Gaga as loyal customers, Bittar doesn’t hide the challenges it took to get to where he is now.

Amongst pushing past an insecurity surrounding his unconventional start and having to learn to trust his own instincts regarding his designs, Bittar also struggled with his lack of formal business training. 

In 2004, after being named “Rising Star of the Year” by the Accessories Council, he was advised that if he really wanted to grow, he needed to bring in an expert who knew the business side of the industry.

Bittar hired as both his chief operating officer and chief financial officer an executive skilled at managing big businesses, but unskilled in the significantly different nuances of a small, growing business. It was a disaster that almost bankrupted the company. Yet, the experience was not without a silver lining.

“It taught me that I needed to understand every aspect of my business, there was no passing it on,” Bittar said. “I had to learn everything and not be afraid about it. I became a micromanager, which is always seen as a negative term, but if you’re an entrepreneur and not a micromanager, you’re probably going to go under. I ended up becoming much more successful as a result.”

And as a result, he now celebrates his 25th year in business. With a growing staff of more than 400 employees, a recent partnership with private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners LLC to support his expansion plans, and the loyalty (and deep pocket books) of women over age 35,  Bittar certainly will be around for another 25.

Unfortunately, the same can’t be said of Fragments, which recently ceased operations after 30 years in business.

“It is an end of an era,” Bittar said, reflecting on the place that gave him his start. “Janet was an institution and Fragments was an institution. Janet and Jimmy really loved finding young designers.  She was definitely a godmother to a lot of independent designers. I love you, Janet!”

National Jeweler contributor Lilian M. Raji is a strategic marketing and public relations adviser for luxury lifestyle companies in the areas of fine jewelry and watches, luxury fashion accessories and cosmetics. She’s been published on Forbes.com, Luxury Society.com, as well as in Canadian Jeweller and Harry Norman Home. Contact her at lilian@lmrpr.com.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

Weekly QuizJul 17, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Silver, Gold, and Bronze Medals for Italy Olympic Winter Games
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes Unity

The medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.

vimeo screenshot.png
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up!

Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025

Guinness
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGov

Globally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.

Gina Ferranti
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59

The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.

Rio Tinto Chief Executive Simon Trott
SourcingJul 17, 2025
Rio Tinto Names New CEO, Production Rises at Diavik

Production at the mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories topped 1 million carats in Q2, the third consecutive quarter of growth.

Jewelers of America Learning Workship Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2025
JA to Hold Learning Workshops This Fall

A new slate of Learning Workshops will take place in Oklahoma, Mississippi, and Georgia.

Gold bracelets and bangles
SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

The middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.

Buccellati Opera high jewelry bracelet
FinancialsJul 16, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Up 7% in Q1

It marks the third consecutive quarter of growth for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier.

Rolex Datejust ref. 16233
WatchesJul 16, 2025
The Top-Selling Rolex Models of the Last 15 Years, According to Bob’s Watches

The reseller’s market trends report, based on its sales data, also shows exactly how much Rolex prices have jumped since 2010.

Jean Dinh Van Orgue Ring
AuctionsJul 16, 2025
Christie’s To Honor Dinh Van With Exhibition

The auction house will be hosting a retrospective paying tribute to jeweler Jean Dinh Van and his company’s 60th anniversary.

Jake Duneier and Danielle Duneier
IndependentsJul 16, 2025
Clyde Duneier Ushers In Fourth Generation

Jake Duneier and Danielle Duneier-Goldberg have stepped into the roles of CEO and president, respectively.

Boucheron Impermanence Boucheron Dragonfly Earrings and Wisteria Hair Piece
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s Impermanence

The “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.

James Avery Cedar Park
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More States

The Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.

Eric Ford, Couture’s new brand director and former fine jewelry buyer at Neiman Marcus
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director

Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.

Bench jeweler holding a ring and a tool
MajorsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic Manufacturing

In addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.

Guzema Celestial Blue
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Guzema Debuts First Colored Gemstone Jewelry

The “Celestial Blue” capsule collection campaign features Olympian Kateryna Sadurska.

Nanis Mykonos Store Exterior and Interior
MajorsJul 14, 2025
Nanis Opens First Store

The seasonal store, located in Mykonos, Greece, offers exclusive events, personal styling, and curated experiences.

Long’s Jewelers Summer of Love promo
IndependentsJul 14, 2025
It’s the Summer of Love at Long’s Jewelers

The New England jeweler is hosting a bridal event for the month of August.

Ethical Gem Fair
SourcingJul 14, 2025
Ethical Gem Fair Heads to Seattle

The trade-only event will host its debut fair in the Emerald City later this month.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy