Events & AwardsOct 17, 2025
An Edit of Italian Jewels Is Coming to NYCThe new showcase dedicated to Italian jewelry design is set for Oct. 29-30.
MajorsJun 15, 2016
Why Standard Chartered Shut Down Its Diamond Unit
The mid-stream sector of the diamond industry now “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances,” the London-based lender said.
London--Standard Chartered Plc no longer will finance diamond traders and polishers after reevaluating its portfolio and determining there is too much risk for too little return in the sector.
The London-based bank began thoroughly reviewing all of its operations after CEO Bill Winters took over last year, looking to exit businesses generating low returns and/or that are vulnerable to large swings in loan impairment.
The trading and polishing sector of the diamond industry was certainly among those in Winters’ crosshairs, with the spike in defaults and bankruptcies last year--the bank was among those caught up in the massive Winsome Diamonds default--and the increased compliance reporting and regulatory capital costs associated with financing the industry.
In March, the London-based bank began to pull back, tightening its terms for lending to the diamond sector by asking dealers to provide more collateral or take out insurance protection on their loans.
Then, last week, JCKOnline.com broke the news that Standard Chartered would be exiting the diamond sector entirely.
In an official statement, the bank said that continuing to provide financing to diamond traders and polishers “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances.”
A Standard Chartered spokesman added that it will still bank the mining and retail segments of the supply chain; its decision impacts only the mid-stream, meaning diamond traders and polishers.
A timeline for Standard’s shutdown of its diamond division has not yet been determined, though the bank said it is “working with clients to ensure a smooth exit.”
Eric Tunis, a partner at New York-based accounting and consulting firm Friedman LLP, said the news that Standard Chartered would no longer bank the diamond sector “wasn’t something that was shocking.”
There have been a number of warning signs, including the tightened lending restrictions and, very recently, the bank’s absence from the Las Vegas trade shows. Tunis said this is the first time he can recall not seeing anyone from Standard Chartered in Vegas.
He said the struggle with profitability among diamond manufacturers leading to loan defaults in the mid-stream, the slim margins banks now make when lending to diamond companies, and the general lack of robustness in the trade right now all make banks averse to financing it.
Friedman Co-Managing Partner Harriet Greenberg said compliance issues also are a factor.
Larger money center banks face hefty fines if it’s found that their clients are involved in money laundering, a practice many perceive to be rampant in the diamond industry.
“There’s a
stigma associated with the industry. It’s a very international business, and the nature of the product is, it’s mobile and it’s high value, so all those things go into the perception that there could be money laundering,” she said, though she noted that the stigma is undeserved.
“A lot of it is perception more than reality,” Greenberg said, noting that her firm’s clients, and many companies in the industry, have diligent quality control procedures in place.
The exit of Standard Chartered set off alarm bells around the industry, which has seen a number of banks pull back, and even pull out, in recent years.
Antwerp Diamond Bank is no more. Parent company KBC wound down its operations in 2014 after it is said it couldn’t find a buyer for the bank, though questions loom about the failed sale.
Dutch bank ABN Amro still lends to the mid-stream sector of the market, though sources in the diamond market say the bank has pulled back in recent years.
When asked to comment on Standard Chartered’s decision, Erik Jens, who heads the ABN Amro’s diamond and jewelry division, said he cannot comment on another bank’s strategy.
He noted, however, that in general banks “make risk adjusted return trade-offs on where to allocate capital. As for the diamond industry, we know that reputation and transparency still plays a role in those trade-offs, although we see the many initiatives of the industry to improve its image by self-regulation as well.
“In our opinion, for strong, corporate structured companies with a healthy balance sheet, a sustainable strategy and business plan and long-term potential and profitability, there is enough liquidity from several banks active in the sector, even attracting newcomers, including investors, in Europe, Asia, the U.S.A. and the Middle East.”
Greenberg said the exit of traditional lenders, like Standard Chartered and ADB before it, opens the door for non-bank players, such as hedge funds, to enter the sector and offer financial services.
“Anytime there’s a void, there’s an opportunity,” she said.
“A lot of it is perception more than reality,” Greenberg said, noting that her firm’s clients, and many companies in the industry, have diligent quality control procedures in place.
The exit of Standard Chartered set off alarm bells around the industry, which has seen a number of banks pull back, and even pull out, in recent years.
Antwerp Diamond Bank is no more. Parent company KBC wound down its operations in 2014 after it is said it couldn’t find a buyer for the bank, though questions loom about the failed sale.
Dutch bank ABN Amro still lends to the mid-stream sector of the market, though sources in the diamond market say the bank has pulled back in recent years.
When asked to comment on Standard Chartered’s decision, Erik Jens, who heads the ABN Amro’s diamond and jewelry division, said he cannot comment on another bank’s strategy.
He noted, however, that in general banks “make risk adjusted return trade-offs on where to allocate capital. As for the diamond industry, we know that reputation and transparency still plays a role in those trade-offs, although we see the many initiatives of the industry to improve its image by self-regulation as well.
“In our opinion, for strong, corporate structured companies with a healthy balance sheet, a sustainable strategy and business plan and long-term potential and profitability, there is enough liquidity from several banks active in the sector, even attracting newcomers, including investors, in Europe, Asia, the U.S.A. and the Middle East.”
Greenberg said the exit of traditional lenders, like Standard Chartered and ADB before it, opens the door for non-bank players, such as hedge funds, to enter the sector and offer financial services.
“Anytime there’s a void, there’s an opportunity,” she said.
More on Majors
The Latest
TrendsOct 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Judi Powers Jewelry’s ‘Stella’ EarringsTake a gaze at the sky with this pair of platinum diamond-set star earrings with blue lace agate drops.
IndependentsOct 17, 2025
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100In 2026, the jewelry retailer will celebrate a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessYou deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.
IndependentsOct 16, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Jeffrey Zimmer Jeffrey Zimmer's decades of leadership at Reeds Jewelers are defined by integrity, a love of sourcing gemstones, and a heart for community.
Weekly QuizOct 16, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsOct 16, 2025
Sotheby’s Introduces Custom Jewelry ServiceThe new high jewelry design and production process takes 30 days or less from concept to completion, the auction house said.
CollectionsOct 16, 2025
Foundrae Adds To ‘United in Love’ CollectionThe brand has released a second installment of its collection of traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.
Brought to you by
JA New York Fall Is Right Around the CornerThe upcoming show provides savvy retailers with the opportunity to stock their cases with best sellers in advance of the holiday season.
IndependentsOct 15, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Kathy CoreyCorey rescued New England chain Day’s Jewelers, preserving its legacy with strong people skills, pragmatism, and a “get-it-done” attitude.
CrimeOct 15, 2025
Men Receive Lengthy Prison Sentences for 2023 Murder of Colorado JewelerCharles Robinson Shay was sentenced to life in prison plus 120 years while his accomplice, Michael James McCormack, got 75 years.
Events & AwardsOct 15, 2025
‘Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture’ Opens at MADThe Museum of Arts and Design's new exhibition features 75 pieces by the designer, best known for her work in the “Black Panther” films.
Events & AwardsOct 15, 2025
JCK, Luxury to Debut New Watch Section in Vegas Next YearTimepieces at Luxury will take place at The Venetian and, like Luxury, will be invitation-only for the first two days.
AuctionsOct 15, 2025
Christie's Announces New Jewelry Department LeadershipThe auction house named a new global head of jewelry, as well as a new head of the jewelry department for the Americas.
IndependentsOct 14, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Tom DixonAs chairman of Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, Tom Dixon has been tasked with honoring the past and shaping the future of the family-run store.
Events & AwardsOct 14, 2025
Here Are the Winners of the BIJC, JA ‘Emerging Jewelers’ Grant Katty Villapando Lyte and Mica Rencher received a $10,000 grant for their business, Shimmer Culture LLC.
IndependentsOct 14, 2025
Day’s Jewelers Crafts Custom Jewelry for No.1 NBA Draft Pick Cooper FlaggThe parents of the Dallas Mavericks rookie bought their engagement ring at a Day’s store in Bangor, Maine, in 1997.
SourcingOct 14, 2025
Pragnell Debuts Kitulo Garnet Jewelry The UK-based brand sourced the gemstones, which are fully traceable, from an artisanal mining community in Tanzania.
CollectionsOct 10, 2025
Count Down to the Holidays With Astrid & Miyu’s Advent CalendarsThe trio of Advent calendars include a version with 18-karat gold and lab-grown diamond jewelry in a red lacquer jewelry box.
CollectionsOct 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Marla Aaron’s ‘Nymphenburg Lock’Created in collaboration with Nymphenburg Porcelain, the lock is part of a four-piece collection that took two years to bring to fruition.
SourcingOct 09, 2025
Feriel Zerouki Is Leaving De Beers The company and industry leader’s two-decade tenure with De Beers will come to a close at the end of the month.
AuctionsOct 09, 2025
This Fabergé Egg Could Crack $27M At Auction“The Winter Egg” set the world auction record for a Fabergé piece twice at previous Christie’s sales.
MajorsOct 09, 2025
Sy Kessler Buying Watch Batteries as Silver Hits Record High The company will pay 1.5x silver’s current spot price for each pound of silver oxide batteries submitted.
CollectionsOct 09, 2025
Katkim Launches First Men’s CollectionThe line includes a “Shadow” series crafted exclusively for the new men’s offering and reimagined styles from the brand’s core collections.
SourcingOct 09, 2025
Gemfields’ Mini Mixed-Quality Ruby Auction Garners $11MThe rough on offer was recovered from a newer area at the Montepuez mine.
SourcingOct 08, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.
CollectionsOct 08, 2025
Emily P. Wheeler Shifts Into Neutral for Latest ‘Ombré’ CollectionThe champagne colorway in her newest “Ombré” collection combines white and trendy brown diamonds, a departure from her usual vibrant hues.
CollectionsOct 08, 2025
Tsuba Designs Inspire Monica Rich Kosann’s New CharmsKosann partnered with the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, to create a set of necklaces inspired by the artwork on samurai sword handguards.
