Columnists

Peter Smith: Why Jewelers Struggle With Premium Pricing

ColumnistsJul 08, 2025

Peter Smith: Why Jewelers Struggle With Premium Pricing

Luxury brands charge thousands for their shoes and handbags. Jewelers pricing diamond products should take note, Peter Smith writes.

National Jeweler columnist and jewelry sales expert Peter Smith
Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com.
I saw a post on LinkedIn recently where someone from the trade was questioning the logic of natural diamond pricing.

He posited that since diamonds cost just “hundreds of dollars” to extract from the ground, and since they sell at retail for “thousands of dollars,” he wondered who was getting all the money, the implication being, “How can they sleep at night with all those profits!”

What he didn’t ask was how much it cost to make Louis Vuitton bags and why they sell for thousands of dollars, despite being crafted of materials that are decidedly less than rare.

He didn’t mention anything about the fact that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault has become one of the richest people in the world off the back of those substantial profits from manufacture through retail. 

He didn’t ask what Ferragamo shoes cost to make or why they sell for hundreds or thousands of dollars.   

He didn’t even ask why Elsa Peretti open-heart pendants can cost thousands of dollars and why Tiffany & Co. (oops, back to LVMH again) commands so much money for such a basic product. 

“In a business where we command, in my view, appropriate price premiums for brands such as David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, and even Pandora, we continue to tie ourselves in knots at the prospect of doing likewise with diamond products.” 
— Peter Smith  

I mean, have you ever even put those pendants on a scale? 

In a business where we command, in my view, appropriate price premiums for brands such as David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, and even Pandora, where the suggested retail pricing has virtually no bearing at all on the cost of materials and manufacture, we continue to tie ourselves in knots at the prospect of doing likewise with diamond products. 

It’s as if even thinking about making margin on diamonds is crossing a moral rubicon. 

Instead of asking ourselves what we should price the goods at, we gingerly tiptoe upwards from our costs and then, even after arriving at the minimum level of acceptable pricing, often allow discounting, further eroding essential margins. 

Why do we do that? Why don’t we lean confidently into premium pricing and embrace the value proposition? 

The science of pricing psychology is clear in showing that customers use prices as a proxy for quality. This is especially true when they don’t have a clear sense for the products or category in question. 

The higher the price, the better the perceived quality. The higher the perceived quality, the greater the level of consumer satisfaction. 

Do customers really care what your margins are or what you paid for a diamond or a piece of jewelry? 

Do they know what the price of gold is before they visit their local jewelry store to mark a special occasion? 

 Related stories will be right here … 

In “Unleash Your Primal Brain,” Tim Ash wrote, “If something is thought of as being cheap, our conscious mind will associate it with being less effective and substandard as well. Our brain can force us to undermine its objective qualities.” 

It seems to me that retailers lose entirely too much sleep fretting over whether they are charging customers too much for product, instead of focusing on the most important task of inspiring customers to want to spend more. 

Monsieur Arnault and Signore and Signora Ferragamo? They sleep just fine.  

Happy retailing! 

The Latest

Jamie Turner Victoria Labradorite Necklace
CollectionsSep 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jamie Turner’s ‘Victoria’ Necklace

The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.

Stock image of the U.S. Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesSep 05, 2025
Trump Takes Tariffs Case to the Supreme Court

Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.

Patrick Mahomes Hublot campaign
WatchesSep 05, 2025
Patrick Mahomes Is the New Hublot Brand Ambassador

The Kansas City Chiefs quarterback shares Hublot’s dedication to pursuing greatness, the Swiss watchmaker said.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

gia-edu main image.png
Supplier BulletinSep 04, 2025
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Sponsored by GIA

Weekly QuizSep 04, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Lucara pink diamond
SourcingSep 04, 2025
Lucara Unveils Unusual 37-Carat Pink Diamond

The Type IIa stone, recovered from Botswana’s Karowe diamond mine last month, features unique coloration.

A street in Carlsbad California
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events

From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Shot from Breitling new NFL campaign
WatchesSep 04, 2025
Breitling Takes Its NFL Game to the Next Level

Breitling is now the NFL’s official timepiece partner, a move that puts the brand in front of the millions of Americans who watch football.

NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Autumn 2025
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
The NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Returns in November

NYCJAOS is set for Nov. 21-23 in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.

Fabergé x Gemfields Malaika Egg
SourcingSep 03, 2025
Gemfields Confirms Completion of Fabergé Sale

U.S.-based investment company SMG Capital LLC is the new owner of the luxury brand.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsSep 03, 2025
These Are the Nearly 300 Claire’s Stores Set to Close

A new court filing details the locations of the stores that will close, as well as the 830 that will remain open.

Stuller’s Tools, Equipment, & Metals and Findings & Metals Catalogs
MajorsSep 03, 2025
Stuller Releases 2 New Catalogs

The new catalogs are “Tools, Equipment, & Metals” and “Findings & Metals.”

Effy Jewelry Multicolor Sapphire Bangle
TrendsSep 03, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Perfect Birthstone

Sapphire’s variety of colors make it the perfect birthstone for September.

Woman with hands crossed wearing jewelry
FinancialsSep 02, 2025
Lab-Grown Diamonds, Lower-Priced Fashion Jewelry Drive Signet Jewelers’ Q2 Sales

The retailer has raised its guidance after seeing total sales increase 3 percent in the second quarter, beating expectations.

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Birks CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos Steps Down

Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board, was appointed as interim CEO.

Harry Winston Ginza Flagship Exterior, Interior
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Harry Winston Opens Its Largest Flagship in Japan

The three-floor space also features the jeweler’s largest VIP salon in Japan and offers an exclusive diamond pendant.

All Hours: Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry x Oak and Luna Campaign Imagery
CollectionsSep 02, 2025
Stephanie Gottlieb Debuts Silver Designs in ‘All Hours’ Collab

The collection is a collaboration between Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry and Oak and Luna, focusing on understated essentials.

Sothebys The Desert Rose orangy pink diamond collectors week
AuctionsAug 29, 2025
Sotheby’s UAE Sale to Feature 32-Carat Fancy Vivid Orangy Pink Diamond

The highlight of a single-owner jewelry and watch collection, it’s estimated to fetch up to $7 million at auction this December.

Calvin Klein watch and jewelry campaign
FinancialsAug 29, 2025
Movado’s Q2 Sales Rebound Despite Tariff Impact

CEO Efraim Grinberg noted a resurgence in the fashion watch market.

Mark Davis Bullseye Necklace
CollectionsAug 29, 2025
Piece of the Week: Mark Davis’ ‘Bullseye’ Necklace

The “Bullseye” necklace, with vintage bakelite and peridot, August’s birthstone, is the perfect transitional piece as summer turns to fall.

Image #1_Resized.png
Supplier BulletinAug 28, 2025
Clientbook Is Helping Jewelers Turn Clienteling Challenges into Wins with Hands-On Training and Coaching

Sponsored by Clientbook

GIA’s new report for lab-grown diamonds
GradingAug 28, 2025
GIA’s New ‘Quality Assessment’ for Lab-Grown Diamonds Is Coming

It will classify lab-grown stones into one of two categories, “premium” or “standard,” in lieu of giving specific color and clarity grades.

Botswana President Duma Boko
SourcingAug 28, 2025
Botswana Declares Public Health Emergency Amid Diamond Sales Slump

President Duma Boko addressed the country’s medical supply chain crisis in a recent televised address.

Afton Robertson-Kanne Borsheims
MajorsAug 28, 2025
Borsheims Names New Jewelry Buyer

Former Free People buyer Afton Robertson-Kanne recently joined the retailer.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Back to School and Bling
IndependentsAug 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin Donates School Supplies to Memphis Students

The jeweler teamed up with two local organizations for its inaugural “Back to School and Bling” event.

Taylor Swift Engaged
EditorsAug 27, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Is a Fairy Tale for Vintage Diamond Cuts

The singer’s new bling, reportedly a natural old mine-cut diamond, is no paper ring.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy