Sotheby’s Makes Changes at Top of Watch Division
Sam Hines returns to the auction house as chairman, watches, while Geoff Hess moves up to the role of global head of watches.

The auction house said Friday that watch industry veteran Sam Hines is returning to the company as chairman, watches, while Geoff Hess has been promoted to global head of watches.
Hines began his career in the auction market and watch industry at Sotheby’s in 1997. He is rejoining the company from online watch auctioneer Loupe This, where he has served as managing director since 2022.
Previously, he was the worldwide head of watches at Sotheby’s, international head of watches for Phillips, and international co-head of the watch department at Christie’s.
According to Sotheby’s, Hines has spearheaded some of the most important watch sales of the past 15 years, including the 2016 sale of a stainless steel Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 for $11 million, then the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction.
As chairman of Sotheby’s Watch Division, Hines will focus on securing major collections, serving as principal auctioneer for the auction house’s sales globally, and mentoring the next generation of watch specialists and auctioneers.
He will begin his new role at the end of June. He will be based in Hong Kong and report directly to the global head of Sotheby’s Luxury Division.
“I am tremendously excited to return to Sotheby’s, a place that is both familiar and new, as the company continues to chart forward-looking and innovative paths around the world,” Hines said.
“I look forward to working with Geoff and our talented global team to further strengthen our expertise and sourcing capabilities to meet the rapidly expanding client base.”
Hess is being promoted to global head of watches from his current role of senior vice president and head of watches in the Americas.
Sotheby’s said his promotion follows a series of recent successes with single-owner collections, including last week’s auction of watches belonging to “Rocky” star Sylvester Stallone, which was 100 percent sold by lot.
A lawyer by trade, Hess joined Sotheby’s in August 2023 from Phillips Watches Department in New York, where he was a senior international specialist.
Prior to that, he was the CEO of pre-owned and vintage timepiece marketplace Analog/Shift and was instrumental in its growth and 2020 acquisition by Watches of Switzerland.
He also is a dedicated watch collector—he personally purchased one of Stallone’s Patek Philippe watches—and founder of the “Rolliefest” global gathering in New York, which last took place in September 2023.
He’s also an academy member of the Grand Prix d’Horologerie de Genève.
In his new role as global head of watches, Hess will continue to develop and execute a growth strategy for the watch category worldwide, managing the regional leaders across auction, retail and private sales, and will maintain his client relationships with the community.
His promotion is effective immediately, and he also will report directly to the global head of Sotheby’s Luxury Division.
Hess said, “It is an honor to assume this new position, as I approach my one-year anniversary at Sotheby’s. Leveraging my managerial experience and knowledge as a dedicated collector and active member of the watch community for decades, I am committed to fostering a team built on collaboration, creativity, and unparalleled expertise.
“I look forward to working with Sam and our passionate global watches team to provide our clients with the best service possible, and work towards establishing Sotheby’s at the center of watch culture.”
The Latest

A ring set with “hogback” diamonds, an early stone cut dating to around the 16th century, sold for more than $20,000 at a U.K. auction.

The rainbow version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, features angel-cut, octahedral lab-grown sapphires designed to be worn as armor.

The new initiative donates a portion of the proceeds from select charms to charitable causes.

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

The Brooklyn-based jeweler created a limited-edition version of its “Aura” eternity band, set with gemstones in the team’s colors.


Dallow will lead the International Colored Gemstone Association, effective July 6.

Senior Editor Lenore Fedow headed to Savannah to learn more about the 10-year, $10 million partnership between JM and the art school.

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Its new capsule jewelry collection features gold-finished stainless steel pieces designed for a maximalist look without a luxury price tag.

The week-long event in Geneva is slated for April 2027.

The three industry leaders bring financial, communications, and legal expertise to the nonprofit’s board of directors.

Jewelers are missing out by not offering this one key add-on at the online point of sale, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

The fourth collaborative collection from the retailer and jewelry content creator focuses on gemstone charms and strands of colorful beads.

This year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards will feature two new categories.

The collection features traceable alexandrite from Brazil in calibrated sizes that is sorted by grade.

Dhaval Raja has been appointed to the role.

The capsule collection looks to vintage trunk pins that echo the spirit of speed, freedom, and the mythology of the American road trip.

SSEF issued a notice about the potential new source of the sought-after gemstone, citing “credible reports” from trade sources.

As Amazon Prime Day kicks off, Etsy is encouraging shoppers to support small businesses.

Cole Winward is the recipient of 2026 AGA Gemological Scholarship.

Whether they evoked nostalgia, wonder, or laughter, these jewels put a smile on our faces.

Scheduled for April 2027, Basilia will be the first watch and jewelry trade show held in Basel since the collapse of Baselworld in 2020.

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

The recent high jewelry auction, which also featured the sale of a 10-carat blue diamond, was “a celebration of color.”

She wore the “Le Cauri Endiamanté” earrings, our Piece of the Week, in the Obamas’ first dual portrait for the Obama Presidential Center.

Couture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.

The lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.























