MajorsSep 08, 2026
Former Tiffany & Co. Exec Joins Exemplar Luxury GroupGretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.
EditorsAug 25, 2010
At home between East and West
The influence of the Far East on Western jewelry design is nothing new to American jewelers, who can--these days--have their pick of chandelier earrings, pile-on bangles and stackable rings fit for a Bollywood princess (and perfect for American self-purchasers looking...
The influence of the Far East on Western jewelry design is nothing new to American jewelers, who can--these days--have their pick of chandelier earrings, pile-on bangles and stackable rings fit for a Bollywood princess (and perfect for American self-purchasers looking for an exotic, Eat Pray Love-like look).
But two brands that held press previews recently have found their design groove by channeling the history, culture and geography of the Middle East to create jewelry that can work equally well in Istanbul and Illinois. And while each of these companies manufactures and sells its own jewelry at the retail level, they are both eyeing retail partnerships in the United States.
One is Zaiken Jewelry, a newcomer to the industry that debuted in June, which offers pieces inspired by Arabic culture that come in at entry-level to mid-range price points. The other, at the higher end of the price spectrum, is Gilan, an Istanbul, Turkey-based global jewelry brand with a retail store on Fifth Avenue on Manhattan's Upper East Side.
Zaiken Jewelry
Zaiken Jewelry's founder/designer Malak Atut came up with the company's moniker by combining the names of her two sons: "Zain," which means "object of beauty" in Arabic and "Kenz," which means "treasure." Crafted in fine gold and sterling silver, Zaiken's jewelry is hand-made by skilled local artisans in New York City.
The goal of Atut's collections: to reflect both the richness of her Middle Eastern lineage and the sophistication of her New York City upbringing. The results are pieces inspired by Islamic art, the rippling desert terrain and the art of calligraphy, with symbols such as the crescent moon, the evil eye and the hand of Fatima, also working their way into her work.
To view the images below at a larger size, simply click on them.
Zaiken "Allah" pendant necklace from the "Calligraphy Collection" in 14-karat rose gold with purple sapphire accent retails for $545. The fluid, sensual curves of the collection pay homage to calligraphy, a celebrated Islamic art form.
"Five Pillars Collection" necklace by Zaiken in hand-hammered silver with a rhodium finish is accented with assorted color tourmalines. Retails for $525. One stone in the collection sits as the largest in the group of five, paying homage to the first pillar, the belief in a unifying God.
Zaiken's "Desert Dunes Collection" ring pays homage to the mystique of the Middle Eastern desert. This
oxidized silver piece retails for $150.
The "Mediterranean Collection," designed to evoke the colors of the sea for which it was named, features custom-made necklaces such as this one with assorted emeralds, rubies, and sapphires on a 14-karat yellow gold clasp, retailing for $1,250.
The "Woven Star Collection" pays tribute to the star, a universal symbol of balance, harmony and cosmic order. Earrings in oxidized silver retail for $145.
Gilan
Gilan, a Turkish jewelry house, was founded by two brothers, Muharrem and Ferhan Gilan, in 1980, but the company's design influences date back to jewelry-making masters from centuries ago.
Jewelry artisans based in Istanbul create the company's signature collections, which aim to bring the opulent Sultan Court swag to the 21st century. One of the brand's signature looks: rose-cut diamonds (popularized by Dutch diamond cutters of the 16th century, but now making a comeback) set in silver with detailed engraving work on a yellow gold back as part of an exclusive technique called Telkari.
The new "Bosphorus Dreams Collection," set for launch in November, pays homage to the famed strait connecting the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, where East meets West. The collection features pieces that symbolize the waterway, the boats and even the dolphins that traverse the strait.
Although Gilan has its own retail store, it is also looking into wholesaling to select U.S. retail partners that fit with the brand's aesthetic.
Gilan "Colored Domes" ring features 4.59 carats of pink tourmaline and 0.62 carats of diamonds; suggested retail price is $6,200.
Gilan "Cabochon Sparkling Waves" ring features 29.89 carats chalcedony, 0.52 carats of white diamonds; suggested retail price is $5,100.
Gilan "Bosphorus Collection" necklace in white gold features 22.89 carats of sapphires, 6.84 carats of emeralds and 9.74 carats of diamonds; suggested retail price is $92,500.
Gilan "Secret Palace" earrings in white gold feature 14 carats of amethyst and 1.92 carats of diamonds; suggested retail price is $12,000.
Gilan "Moon Reflection" 18-karat white gold ring features 23.50 carats white crystal and 1.16 carats diamonds; suggested retail price is $6,500.
More on Editors
The Latest
IndependentsSep 08, 2026
Ricky Bromberg, Longtime President of Bromberg & Co., Dies at 67 Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.
TrendsSep 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Hot Take on September’s Birthstone With high durability and a wide range of colors to choose from, sapphires may be the ultimate birthstone, Gizzi claims.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
ColumnistsSep 08, 2026
Peter Smith: Humor Is No Laughing MatterLaughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.
Weekly QuizSep 03, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better LocationThe California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 ApplicationsThe deadline to apply is Nov. 13.
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of WatchesThe auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand AmbassadorThe British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New CollectionsThe “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi SchemeNelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.
AuctionsSep 02, 2026
If You Love Cats, This Jewelry Auction Is for YouCat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of AmericasArnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.
AuctionsSep 01, 2026
UK Woman Uncovers Rare Patek Philippe Watch in Mom’s Jewelry BoxThe stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.
ColumnistsSep 01, 2026
Your Jewelry Marketing Has a Bridal ProblemEngagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Kering Names New Pomellato, DoDo CEOsFormer Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Anne Marie Shulman Joins GPA GlobalThe veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.
CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).
GradingAug 31, 2026
GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab Confirm New Paraíba Tourmaline Deposit in EthiopiaThe labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry CollectionThe “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary CongressThe former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.
