Auctions

First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M

AuctionsMay 11, 2023

First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M

The first-day total topped the 2011 Elizabeth Taylor auction despite controversy surrounding the sale and the top lots underperforming.

20230330_3-Heidi Horten.jpg
The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot of part one of “The World of Heidi Horten” jewelry auction at Christie’s, selling for $14.7 million.
New York—Christie’s held the first segment of the auction of late Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten’s jewels in Geneva Wednesday, despite the controversy surrounding how her husband built his wealth.

As predicted by the auction house, the sale beat the previous auction record set by the sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s private jewelry collection in 2011 (total: $137.2 million), even with the most talked-about pieces underperforming.

In total, Wednesday’s sale of pieces from Horten’s jewelry collection garnered $156 million, said Christie's, more than the $139 million low-end estimate for the sale.

“There was significant global activity with bidders coming from all over the world, equally split between the Americas, Asia, Europe and the Middle East,” said the auction house.

Around half of the lots, 46 in total, sold for more than $1 million.

Several of the pieces highlighted prior to the jewelry auction were up for sale this round, including the 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace and the “Sunrise Ruby” ring, though both sold for less than expected.

The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot.

The ring, which features a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby with “exceptional purity,” sold for $14.7 million, below its lowest pre-sale estimate of $15.7 million and less than half of what it went for when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2016.

The “Briolette of India” platinum and diamond necklace, set with a 90.36-carat briolette-cut diamond and surrounded by pear- and marquise-cut diamonds, was the second highest-grossing lot. It sold for $7.1 million, well below its estimate of $10.1 million to $15.7 million.


A Harry Winston three-strand natural pearl necklace, seen below, with an 11.15-carat cushion-shaped pink diamond clasp sold for $6.3 million, below its estimate of $7.2 million to $10.4 million.

20230330_6-Heidi Horten.jpg


 Related stories will be right here … 

Horten’s collection of Bulgari jewels is especially noteworthy, said Max Fawcett, head of jewelry at Christie’s Geneva, in an earlier statement about the auction, ranking it as one of the top five Bulgari collections ever assembled.

20230330_11-Heidi Horten.jpg
A colored diamond brooch by Bulgari


The Bulgari colored diamond brooch seen above features a 5.14-carat fancy intense orange pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamond, a 5-carat fancy intense purple-pink modified heart portrait-cut diamond, a 4.26-carat fancy blue marquise brilliant-cut diamond, and a 3.82-carat fancy intense yellow marquise brilliant-cut diamond.

It sold for $5.1 million, at the low end of its $5 million to $7.2 million estimate.

20230330_9-Heidi Horten.jpg


This Bulgari diamond and emerald bangle, seen above, set with a 32.32-carat fancy yellow cushion brilliant-cut diamond, sold for $481,000, within its $359,000 to $561,000 estimated range.

20230330_10-Heidi Horten.jpg


The colorful Bulgari pendant, seen above, set with a blue and padparadscha sapphires, emerald, and diamonds, sold for $2.9 million, well above its $1 million to $1.5 million estimate.

20230330_8-Heidi Horten.jpg


This Bulgari diamond, sapphire, and emerald necklace, seen above, set with a 46.56-carat Old European brilliant-cut diamond as well as baguette-cut diamonds and calibré buff-top sapphires and emeralds, also was up for sale.

A buyer paid $1.6 million for the piece, within its estimate of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

20230330_12-Heidi Horten.jpg
A Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924


Another auction highlight was a diamond, ruby, emerald and onyx Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924, which Horten acquired from Christie’s in Geneva in 2018.

It sold for around $3 million, within its estimate of $2.5 million to $3.6 million.

Another Van Cleef & Arpels piece, a ruby and diamond bird of paradise brooch, seen on the left below, sold for $509,000, well above its $202,000 to $314,000 estimate.

20230330_2-Heidi Horten.jpg


This lion brooch by René Boivin, seen on the right above, is set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and white, yellow, orange, and brown diamonds, and was sold alongside of a pair of “associated” earrings, set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds.

The set sold for $662,000, well above its estimate of $258,000 to $404,000.

Christie’s went ahead with the Horten sale on Wednesday in spite of calls from several organizations to halt it after a New York Times report detailed how the late Helmut Horten profited when the Nazis forced Jewish people to sell their businesses at low prices.

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses, as well as Jewish organizations like the American Jewish Committee and the Simon Wiesenthal Center, called on Christie’s to stop the auction or donate a greater portion of the proceeds to Holocaust education.

Following the backlash, the auction house said it will be donating a “significant” portion of the final sale proceeds to unspecified organizations that further Holocaust research and education.

The sale of Horten’s jewels also will benefit The Heidi Horten Foundation, which supports her art museum—The Heidi Horten Collection in Vienna—and other causes.

The second live auction of Horten’s jewelry is scheduled to take place Friday.  

There also will be two online sales, with one taking place now through May 15 and November dates to follow for the remaining jewels.

The Latest

Alexandra Rosier gold and opal Eternal Love Hands necklace
TrendsJun 02, 2023
Take a Peek at Couture’s Newest Design Talents

This year’s Design Atelier is full of gems.

Saboo Fine Jewels emerald and titanium earrings
CollectionsJun 02, 2023
Piece of the Week: Saboo Fine Jewels’ Emerald Earrings

They’re a testament to the power of excellent design.

Holly Wesche, Stan Razny, Ingrid Razny, Candy Udell
IndependentsJun 02, 2023
These Are the 2023 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s honorees include one of Florida’s largest independent jewelers and two multi-store independents in the Chicago and New York areas.

LAB230043_Dossier_NJ_1872x1052_V1.jpg
Brought to you by
The Next Step for GIA Diamond Reports

The most trusted diamond report, available in print or the GIA App.

Jane Taylor letter pendants
TrendsJun 01, 2023
See 50+ Jewels Debuting at Couture in Las Vegas

The industry’s most influential contemporary designers are showcasing their latest jewelry designs.

Weekly QuizJun 02, 2023
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
35-carat lab-grown diamond created by Maitri
Lab-GrownJun 01, 2023
35-Carat Lab-Grown Diamond Going on Display in Vegas

Created by Maitri Lab-Grown Diamonds and graded by IGI, it’s slightly bigger than the record-setting lab-grown diamond GIA just examined.

Bottom Line Marketing Chief Growth Officer Gus Garcia and CEO Jackie Brooks
MajorsJun 01, 2023
Bottom Line Marketing Announces Restructured Leadership, New Service Offerings

The marketing agency has integrated its first C-suite.

Cover-WN19-Back-&-Front_V5-RGB-(1)_Community.jpg
Brought to you by
Beyond Borders: Crucial Factors in Colored Stone Origin Determination

Navigate origin determination with Continuing Education seminars offered by the GIA Alumni Collective™.

20230306_JohnnyCupcakes.jpg
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2023
Meet JCK’s 2023 Keynote Speaker

The jewelry trade show also will debut educational content centered around social media.

Lauren K gold and gemstone rings
TrendsMay 31, 2023
Here’s a Sneak Peek of New Jewelry to Check Out at JCK

Luxury kicks off today, with the full show in swing on Friday.

A pearl pendant and a pearl ring
CollectionsMay 31, 2023
Verragio’s Debut Fine Jewelry Collections Honor Company Heritage

One of the three new collections was inspired by the legend of a woman who traded her mansion to Cartier for two strands of natural pearls.

Rob Ballew
MajorsMay 31, 2023
Signet Jewelers Names New Head of Investor Relations

Rob Ballew will be tasked with communicating the jewelry giant’s plans and financial performance to investors.

Mobile mock-up screens of the new LUX Digital Vault app from Jewelers Mutual Group
MajorsMay 31, 2023
Jewelers Mutual Launches App for Retailers, Introduces New Brokerage

With the app, customers receive a 15-day insurance offer on new purchases while their coverage needs are being evaluated.

Rendering of Lightbox lab-grown diamond store in House of Showfields
Lab-GrownMay 30, 2023
Lightbox Is Testing Out a Trendy Concept Shop in Brooklyn

It is in House of Showfields, a bazaar-style retail space in the borough’s Williamsburg neighborhood.

Attendees at the JCK Las Vegas show
Events & AwardsMay 30, 2023
These Are the Can’t-Miss JCK Talks Education Sessions

From consumer trends to retail technology, these are the JCK Talks sessions that should be on attendees’ radar.

Georgie Gleim, Shelly Sergent, and Molly Peterson
Events & AwardsMay 30, 2023
24 Karat Club of Southern California Recognizes 3 Honorees

They will be celebrated at the annual dinner dance and gala in the fall.

Historic and modern photos of diamond grading GIA
GradingMay 26, 2023
State of the Diamond Industry: AI and the Future of Diamond Grading

Gemologists have long used machines in diamond grading but technology has made it possible for them to “learn” how to do it on their own.

Supplier Spotlight Webinar John Pollard and Garry Holloway
Recorded WebinarsMay 26, 2023
Watch: Diamond Cut Quality: The Final Frontier Part 2

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by IGI

My Next Question webinar series episode on selling lab-grown diamonds
Recorded WebinarsMay 26, 2023
Natural and Lab-Grown Diamonds: What It’s Like to Sell Both

Watch retailers Jeffery Bolling and Bobby Bengivengo discuss employee training, customer education and the sticky subject of future value.

Models wearing Calvin Klein watches and jewelry
FinancialsMay 26, 2023
Movado Sales Slip in Q1 Amid Inflation Woes, Tough Comps

The company has plans to revamp the Movado brand and offer less expensive watches this year.

noamcarver-videoimage.png
Supplier BulletinMay 25, 2023
RAE Fine Jewelry Collection Debuting at JCK Luxury 2023

Sponsored by Noam Carver

Graphic of phishing scheme
TechnologyMay 25, 2023
State of Retail: Why Jewelers Need to Invest in Cybersecurity Now

As cybercrime incidents threaten the industry, jewelers need to know what they’re up against and the best ways to protect their businesses.

Louis Anthony Jewelers remodeled exterior
IndependentsMay 25, 2023
Louis Anthony Jewelers Is Remodeling and Expanding

The Pittsburgh jeweler is redoing the lighting and showcases, and adding a full hospitality bar as well as new shop-in-shops.

Yurman Family Crystalline Pass at American Museum of Natural History in New York City
SourcingMay 25, 2023
David Yurman Unveils Quartz Exhibition at AMNH

The Yurman Family Crystalline Pass is inside the museum’s brand-new Richard Gilder Center.

Stanley Zale new principal consultant Hill & Co.
MajorsMay 25, 2023
Stanley Zale Joins Hill & Co. as Principal Consultant

Zale has more than 40 years’ experience in the diamond industry, including 17 years as Stuller’s VP of diamonds and gemstones procurement.

 Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada sign
Events & AwardsMay 24, 2023
New To-Dos in Las Vegas During Jewelry Market Week 2023

The Strip is full of new restaurant and entertainment offerings.

State Property necklace, Briony Raymond two-stone ring, and Emily P. Wheeler earrings
TrendsMay 24, 2023
State of Design: The Jewelry Design Trends to Know Now

National Jeweler’s senior editor covering fashion, trends, and design highlights the latest looks in the market.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy