AuctionsMay 08, 2023
WFDB Joins Those Objecting to Heidi Horten Auction at Christie’sAuctionsMay 11, 2023
First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M
The first-day total topped the 2011 Elizabeth Taylor auction despite controversy surrounding the sale and the top lots underperforming.
The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot of part one of “The World of Heidi Horten” jewelry auction at Christie’s, selling for $14.7 million.
New York—Christie’s held the first segment of the auction of late Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten’s jewels in Geneva Wednesday, despite the controversy surrounding how her husband built his wealth.
As predicted by the auction house, the sale beat the previous auction record set by the sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s private jewelry collection in 2011 (total: $137.2 million), even with the most talked-about pieces underperforming.
In total, Wednesday’s sale of pieces from Horten’s jewelry collection garnered $156 million, said Christie's, more than the $139 million low-end estimate for the sale.
“There was significant global activity with bidders coming from all over the world, equally split between the Americas, Asia, Europe and the Middle East,” said the auction house.
Around half of the lots, 46 in total, sold for more than $1 million.
Several of the pieces highlighted prior to the jewelry auction were up for sale this round, including the 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace and the “Sunrise Ruby” ring, though both sold for less than expected.
The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot.
The ring, which features a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby with “exceptional purity,” sold for $14.7 million, below its lowest pre-sale estimate of $15.7 million and less than half of what it went for when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2016.
The “Briolette of India” platinum and diamond necklace, set with a 90.36-carat briolette-cut diamond and surrounded by pear- and marquise-cut diamonds, was the second highest-grossing lot. It sold for $7.1 million, well below its estimate of $10.1 million to $15.7 million.
As predicted by the auction house, the sale beat the previous auction record set by the sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s private jewelry collection in 2011 (total: $137.2 million), even with the most talked-about pieces underperforming.
In total, Wednesday’s sale of pieces from Horten’s jewelry collection garnered $156 million, said Christie's, more than the $139 million low-end estimate for the sale.
“There was significant global activity with bidders coming from all over the world, equally split between the Americas, Asia, Europe and the Middle East,” said the auction house.
Around half of the lots, 46 in total, sold for more than $1 million.
Several of the pieces highlighted prior to the jewelry auction were up for sale this round, including the 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace and the “Sunrise Ruby” ring, though both sold for less than expected.
The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot.
The ring, which features a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby with “exceptional purity,” sold for $14.7 million, below its lowest pre-sale estimate of $15.7 million and less than half of what it went for when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2016.
The “Briolette of India” platinum and diamond necklace, set with a 90.36-carat briolette-cut diamond and surrounded by pear- and marquise-cut diamonds, was the second highest-grossing lot. It sold for $7.1 million, well below its estimate of $10.1 million to $15.7 million.
The “Briolette of India” platinum and diamond necklace sold for $7.1 million.
The 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace, seen here on Heidi Horten (Image courtesy of the Heidi Horten Foundation)
A Harry Winston three-strand natural pearl necklace, seen below, with an 11.15-carat cushion-shaped pink diamond clasp sold for $6.3 million, below its estimate of $7.2 million to $10.4 million.
Horten’s collection of Bulgari jewels is especially noteworthy, said Max Fawcett, head of jewelry at Christie’s Geneva, in an earlier statement about the auction, ranking it as one of the top five Bulgari collections ever assembled.
A colored diamond brooch by Bulgari
The Bulgari colored diamond brooch seen above features a 5.14-carat fancy intense orange pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamond, a 5-carat fancy intense purple-pink modified heart portrait-cut diamond, a 4.26-carat fancy blue marquise brilliant-cut diamond, and a 3.82-carat fancy intense yellow marquise brilliant-cut diamond.
It sold for $5.1 million, at the low end of its $5 million to $7.2 million estimate.
This Bulgari diamond and emerald bangle, seen above, set with a 32.32-carat fancy yellow cushion brilliant-cut diamond, sold for $481,000, within its $359,000 to $561,000 estimated range.
The colorful Bulgari pendant, seen above, set with a blue and padparadscha sapphires, emerald, and diamonds, sold for $2.9 million, well above its $1 million to $1.5 million estimate.
This Bulgari diamond, sapphire, and emerald necklace, seen above, set with a 46.56-carat Old European brilliant-cut diamond as well as baguette-cut diamonds and calibré buff-top sapphires and emeralds, also was up for sale.
A buyer paid $1.6 million for the piece, within its estimate of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.
A Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924
Another auction highlight was a diamond, ruby, emerald and onyx Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924, which Horten acquired from Christie’s in Geneva in 2018.
It sold for around $3 million, within its estimate of $2.5 million to $3.6 million.
Another Van Cleef & Arpels piece, a ruby and diamond bird of paradise brooch, seen on the left below, sold for $509,000, well above its $202,000 to $314,000 estimate.
This lion brooch by René Boivin, seen on the right above, is set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and white, yellow, orange, and brown diamonds, and was sold alongside of a pair of “associated” earrings, set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds.
The set sold for $662,000, well above its estimate of $258,000 to $404,000.
Christie’s went ahead with the Horten sale on Wednesday in spite of calls from several organizations to halt it after a New York Times report detailed how the late Helmut Horten profited when the Nazis forced Jewish people to sell their businesses at low prices.
The World Federation of Diamond Bourses, as well as Jewish organizations like the American Jewish Committee and the Simon Wiesenthal Center, called on Christie’s to stop the auction or donate a greater portion of the proceeds to Holocaust education.
Following the backlash, the auction house said it will be donating a “significant” portion of the final sale proceeds to unspecified organizations that further Holocaust research and education.
The sale of Horten’s jewels also will benefit The Heidi Horten Foundation, which supports her art museum—The Heidi Horten Collection in Vienna—and other causes.
The second live auction of Horten’s jewelry is scheduled to take place Friday.
There also will be two online sales, with one taking place now through May 15 and November dates to follow for the remaining jewels.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
Weekly QuizOct 29, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington StateThe Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.
TrendsOct 29, 2026
Amanda's Style File: All Treats, No Tricks Get into the Halloween spirit with this roundup of 13 spooky jewels.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Gesswein Hires Longtime Bench Jeweler, Educator Ann CahoonCahoon was appointed strategic account and educational program manager at Gesswein, which recently joined Continental Buying Group.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Amanda Seyfried Stars In Tiffany & Co.’s Holiday CampaignTiffany & Co.’s latest ambassador makes her debut in its “Love Is a Gift” holiday campaign.
EditorsOct 28, 2026
These Wicked Jewels Will Cast a Spell on YouFor her annual Halloween story, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow highlights bewitching jewels fit for a witch that go from day to unholy night.
CrimeOct 28, 2026
Man In Florida Who Swallowed Tiffany & Co. Earrings ConvictedJaythan Gilder was found guilty of robbery and grand theft after stealing and then ingesting nearly $800,000 worth of Tiffany & Co. jewelry.
SurveysOct 28, 2026
Consumer Confidence Up in October as Gas Prices EaseConsumer confidence remains on the long-term downward trend that’s persisted over the past few years, said a Conference Board economist.
MajorsOct 28, 2026
Stuller’s Holiday Campaign Lets the ‘Magic of the Moment’ ShineThe holiday campaign includes key jewelry trends, a curated holiday gift guide, and resources to help jewelers prepare for holiday shoppers.
SourcingOct 27, 2026
De Beers Celebrates the Holidays With New ‘Desert Diamonds’ CampaignThe “Icons” holiday campaign spotlights four classic diamond jewelry styles reimagined in “Desert Diamond” tones.
IndependentsOct 27, 2026
Solomon Brothers Acquires Mervis Diamond ImportersSolomon Brothers, which has three stores in the Metro Atlanta area, said it may continue to acquire other independent jewelers.
IndependentsOct 27, 2026
Gabriel & Co. Supports Charity Partner DKMS With Gala, New JewelsThe fine jewelry brand raised $2.3 million at its annual gala that supports the nonprofit’s fight against blood cancer and blood disorders.
Events & AwardsOct 27, 2026
JFC Announces 2027 ‘Facets’ HonoreesThe annual fundraising event is slated for June 6, 2027, at The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas.
CollectionsOct 26, 2026
Bliss Lau’s ‘Vantage’ Point Is the Hawaiian HorizonIn her “Vantage” collection, Lau explores heritage, identity, and inner strength through designs featuring blue-green Guatemalan jade.
MajorsOct 26, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Takes Consumers Behind the ScenesThe jeweler gave the public backstage tours of its flagship store and its design and innovation workshop as part of LVMH’s open house.
Events & AwardsOct 26, 2026
Support JFC’s ‘Monster Mash Challenge,’ If You DareVote for which jewelry professional should dress up as a monster to support Jewelers for Children’s annual Halloween fundraiser.
