Auctions

First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M

AuctionsMay 11, 2023

First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M

The first-day total topped the 2011 Elizabeth Taylor auction despite controversy surrounding the sale and the top lots underperforming.

20230330_3-Heidi Horten.jpg
The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot of part one of “The World of Heidi Horten” jewelry auction at Christie’s, selling for $14.7 million.
New York—Christie’s held the first segment of the auction of late Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten’s jewels in Geneva Wednesday, despite the controversy surrounding how her husband built his wealth.

As predicted by the auction house, the sale beat the previous auction record set by the sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s private jewelry collection in 2011 (total: $137.2 million), even with the most talked-about pieces underperforming.

In total, Wednesday’s sale of pieces from Horten’s jewelry collection garnered $156 million, said Christie's, more than the $139 million low-end estimate for the sale.

“There was significant global activity with bidders coming from all over the world, equally split between the Americas, Asia, Europe and the Middle East,” said the auction house.

Around half of the lots, 46 in total, sold for more than $1 million.

Several of the pieces highlighted prior to the jewelry auction were up for sale this round, including the 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace and the “Sunrise Ruby” ring, though both sold for less than expected.

The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot.

The ring, which features a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby with “exceptional purity,” sold for $14.7 million, below its lowest pre-sale estimate of $15.7 million and less than half of what it went for when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2016.

The “Briolette of India” platinum and diamond necklace, set with a 90.36-carat briolette-cut diamond and surrounded by pear- and marquise-cut diamonds, was the second highest-grossing lot. It sold for $7.1 million, well below its estimate of $10.1 million to $15.7 million.


A Harry Winston three-strand natural pearl necklace, seen below, with an 11.15-carat cushion-shaped pink diamond clasp sold for $6.3 million, below its estimate of $7.2 million to $10.4 million.

20230330_6-Heidi Horten.jpg


 Related stories will be right here … 

Horten’s collection of Bulgari jewels is especially noteworthy, said Max Fawcett, head of jewelry at Christie’s Geneva, in an earlier statement about the auction, ranking it as one of the top five Bulgari collections ever assembled.

20230330_11-Heidi Horten.jpg
A colored diamond brooch by Bulgari


The Bulgari colored diamond brooch seen above features a 5.14-carat fancy intense orange pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamond, a 5-carat fancy intense purple-pink modified heart portrait-cut diamond, a 4.26-carat fancy blue marquise brilliant-cut diamond, and a 3.82-carat fancy intense yellow marquise brilliant-cut diamond.

It sold for $5.1 million, at the low end of its $5 million to $7.2 million estimate.

20230330_9-Heidi Horten.jpg


This Bulgari diamond and emerald bangle, seen above, set with a 32.32-carat fancy yellow cushion brilliant-cut diamond, sold for $481,000, within its $359,000 to $561,000 estimated range.

20230330_10-Heidi Horten.jpg


The colorful Bulgari pendant, seen above, set with a blue and padparadscha sapphires, emerald, and diamonds, sold for $2.9 million, well above its $1 million to $1.5 million estimate.

20230330_8-Heidi Horten.jpg


This Bulgari diamond, sapphire, and emerald necklace, seen above, set with a 46.56-carat Old European brilliant-cut diamond as well as baguette-cut diamonds and calibré buff-top sapphires and emeralds, also was up for sale.

A buyer paid $1.6 million for the piece, within its estimate of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

20230330_12-Heidi Horten.jpg
A Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924


Another auction highlight was a diamond, ruby, emerald and onyx Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924, which Horten acquired from Christie’s in Geneva in 2018.

It sold for around $3 million, within its estimate of $2.5 million to $3.6 million.

Another Van Cleef & Arpels piece, a ruby and diamond bird of paradise brooch, seen on the left below, sold for $509,000, well above its $202,000 to $314,000 estimate.

20230330_2-Heidi Horten.jpg


This lion brooch by René Boivin, seen on the right above, is set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and white, yellow, orange, and brown diamonds, and was sold alongside of a pair of “associated” earrings, set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds.

The set sold for $662,000, well above its estimate of $258,000 to $404,000.

Christie’s went ahead with the Horten sale on Wednesday in spite of calls from several organizations to halt it after a New York Times report detailed how the late Helmut Horten profited when the Nazis forced Jewish people to sell their businesses at low prices.

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses, as well as Jewish organizations like the American Jewish Committee and the Simon Wiesenthal Center, called on Christie’s to stop the auction or donate a greater portion of the proceeds to Holocaust education.

Following the backlash, the auction house said it will be donating a “significant” portion of the final sale proceeds to unspecified organizations that further Holocaust research and education.

The sale of Horten’s jewels also will benefit The Heidi Horten Foundation, which supports her art museum—The Heidi Horten Collection in Vienna—and other causes.

The second live auction of Horten’s jewelry is scheduled to take place Friday.  

There also will be two online sales, with one taking place now through May 15 and November dates to follow for the remaining jewels.

The Latest

Single Stone Bryn Ring and Grace Lee Marquise Demi Demi Ring
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Dua Lipa Stays On-Trend With Chunky Engagement Ring

The singer’s ring ticks off many bridal trends, with a thick band, half-bezel setting, and solitaire diamond.

Yvonne Léon Python Gold Bracelet
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yvonne Léon’s ‘Python Gold’ Bracelet

The bracelet references vintage high jewelry and snake symbolism as a playful piece where a python’s head becomes a working belt buckle.

Stock image of handcuffs
CrimeJun 18, 2025
7 Men Indicted in $100M Brinks Jewelry Heist

The heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Caryl Capeci Starboard Cruises
EditorsJun 18, 2025
Q&A: Caryl Capeci Dives Into Cruise Jewelry Shopping

The Starboard Cruises SVP discusses who is shopping for jewelry on ships, how much they’re spending, and why brands should get on board.

Weekly QuizJun 20, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Kirk Kara fine jewelry
CollectionsJun 18, 2025
Kirk Kara Celebrates 135 Years With New Jewels

To mark the milestone, the brand is introducing new non-bridal fine jewelry designs for the first time in two decades.

Gemfields 36 Carat Ruby
SourcingJun 18, 2025
Gemfields Sells 36-Carat Rough Ruby

The gemstone is the third most valuable ruby to come out of the Montepuez mine, Gemfields said.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Alex Brown
TechnologyJun 18, 2025
Alex Brown Named President of Smithee Group

Founder and longtime CEO Ben Smithee will stay with the agency, transitioning into the role of founding partner and strategic advisor.

Jade Ruzzo Gloria Collar
EditorsJun 17, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 1

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 of her favorite pieces from the jewelry collections that debuted at Couture.

Jewelry industry author, speaker, and sales expert Peter Smith
ColumnistsJun 17, 2025
Peter Smith: Is Your Comp Plan a Hiring Hindrance?

If you want to attract good salespeople and generate a stream of “sleeping money” for your jewelry store, then you are going to have to pay.

Selection of jewelry from Sotheby’s New York High Jewelry sale
AuctionsJun 17, 2025
Colored Gemstones, Signed Jewels Shine in Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale

The top lot was a colorless Graff diamond, followed by a Burmese ruby necklace by Marcus & Co.

Amanda Gizzi, Jewelers of America’s SVP of corporate affairs
MajorsJun 17, 2025
Amanda Gizzi Gets a Promotion at JA

Gizzi, who has been in the industry since 2001, is now Jewelers of America’s senior vice president of corporate affairs.

Kering CEO Luca de Meo
MajorsJun 17, 2025
Kering Names Automotive Exec as Its New CEO

Luca de Meo, a 30-year veteran of the auto industry, will succeed longtime CEO François-Henri Pinault.

Botswana Minster of Minerals and Energy Bogolo Joy Kenewendo
EditorsJun 16, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Mining, Tariffs, and the Energy of Las Vegas

Following visits to Vegas and New York, Botswana’s minerals minister sat down with Michelle Graff to discuss the state of the diamond market.

Greenwich Street Jewelers Your Love Has the Perfect Ring Campaign
IndependentsJun 16, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Commitment Campaign Celebrating LGBTQ+ Couples

The “Your Love Has the Perfect Ring” campaign showcases the strength of love and need for inclusivity and representation, the jeweler said.

Ivette Nersesyan-Stephanopoulos
MajorsJun 16, 2025
Ivette Nersesyan-Stephanopoulos Joins Tiffany & Co.

The former De Beers executive is the jewelry house’s new director of high jewelry for the Americas.

New York Liberty Nyara Sabally Catbird campaign
MajorsJun 16, 2025
Catbird Names WNBA Star Nyara Sabally as Its New Brand Ambassador

The New York Liberty forward is the first athlete to represent the Brooklyn-based jewelry brand.

Robinson Pelham Fruits of Love Pear Earrings
CollectionsJun 13, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s Pear Earrings

Take a bite out of the 14-karat yellow gold “Fruits of Love Pear” earrings featuring peridots, diamond stems, and tsavorite leaves.

Three diamonds with diagrams
Events & AwardsJun 13, 2025
AGA to Host ‘Diamonds From Mine to Market’ Education Conference

The one-day virtual event will feature speakers from De Beers, GIA, and Gemworld International.

Ella Sophie
EditorsJun 12, 2025
15 Questions With Jewelry Photographer Ella Sophie

The California-based creative talks jewelry photography in the modern era and tackles FAQs about working with a pro for the first time.

A pink gold Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph Ref. 2499
AuctionsJun 12, 2025
Vintage Patek Philippe From the ‘50s Sells for $4M at Sotheby’s

Al Capone’s pocket watch also found a buyer, though it went for less than half of what it did at auction four years ago.

Gabriel Love Foundation Logo
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2025
Gabriel Love Foundation Introduces Scholarship Honoring Elias Gabriel

The foundation has also expanded its “Stronger Together” initiative with Jewelers for Children.

Celine Assimon
AuctionsJun 12, 2025
Former De Beers Exec Celine Assimon Joins Bonhams

Assimon is the auction house’s new chief commercial officer.

De Beers CEO Al Cook speaking at JCK Las Vegas 2025
EditorsJun 11, 2025
Q&A: Al Cook on Differentiating Natural Diamonds, Traceability, and Tariffs

The De Beers Group CEO discusses the company’s new “beacon” program, the likelihood diamonds will be exempt from tariffs, and “Origin.”

Pandora Las Vegas ribbon cutting ceremony
MajorsJun 11, 2025
Pandora Bets on Las Vegas for First North American Flagship

The Danish jewelry giant hosted its grand opening last weekend, complete with a Pandora pink roulette wheel.

Tiffany Stevens
GradingJun 11, 2025
Tiffany Stevens Exits IGI, Lab Appoints New Board Leader

Industry veteran Anoop Mehta is the new chairman and independent director of the IGI board.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy