Auctions

First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M

AuctionsMay 11, 2023

First Part of Christie’s Heidi Horten Jewelry Auction Garners $156M

The first-day total topped the 2011 Elizabeth Taylor auction despite controversy surrounding the sale and the top lots underperforming.

20230330_3-Heidi Horten.jpg
The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot of part one of “The World of Heidi Horten” jewelry auction at Christie’s, selling for $14.7 million.
New York—Christie’s held the first segment of the auction of late Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten’s jewels in Geneva Wednesday, despite the controversy surrounding how her husband built his wealth.

As predicted by the auction house, the sale beat the previous auction record set by the sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s private jewelry collection in 2011 (total: $137.2 million), even with the most talked-about pieces underperforming.

In total, Wednesday’s sale of pieces from Horten’s jewelry collection garnered $156 million, said Christie's, more than the $139 million low-end estimate for the sale.

“There was significant global activity with bidders coming from all over the world, equally split between the Americas, Asia, Europe and the Middle East,” said the auction house.

Around half of the lots, 46 in total, sold for more than $1 million.

Several of the pieces highlighted prior to the jewelry auction were up for sale this round, including the 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace and the “Sunrise Ruby” ring, though both sold for less than expected.

The “Sunrise Ruby” ring was the top lot.

The ring, which features a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby with “exceptional purity,” sold for $14.7 million, below its lowest pre-sale estimate of $15.7 million and less than half of what it went for when auctioned by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2016.

The “Briolette of India” platinum and diamond necklace, set with a 90.36-carat briolette-cut diamond and surrounded by pear- and marquise-cut diamonds, was the second highest-grossing lot. It sold for $7.1 million, well below its estimate of $10.1 million to $15.7 million.


A Harry Winston three-strand natural pearl necklace, seen below, with an 11.15-carat cushion-shaped pink diamond clasp sold for $6.3 million, below its estimate of $7.2 million to $10.4 million.

20230330_6-Heidi Horten.jpg


 Related stories will be right here … 

Horten’s collection of Bulgari jewels is especially noteworthy, said Max Fawcett, head of jewelry at Christie’s Geneva, in an earlier statement about the auction, ranking it as one of the top five Bulgari collections ever assembled.

20230330_11-Heidi Horten.jpg
A colored diamond brooch by Bulgari


The Bulgari colored diamond brooch seen above features a 5.14-carat fancy intense orange pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamond, a 5-carat fancy intense purple-pink modified heart portrait-cut diamond, a 4.26-carat fancy blue marquise brilliant-cut diamond, and a 3.82-carat fancy intense yellow marquise brilliant-cut diamond.

It sold for $5.1 million, at the low end of its $5 million to $7.2 million estimate.

20230330_9-Heidi Horten.jpg


This Bulgari diamond and emerald bangle, seen above, set with a 32.32-carat fancy yellow cushion brilliant-cut diamond, sold for $481,000, within its $359,000 to $561,000 estimated range.

20230330_10-Heidi Horten.jpg


The colorful Bulgari pendant, seen above, set with a blue and padparadscha sapphires, emerald, and diamonds, sold for $2.9 million, well above its $1 million to $1.5 million estimate.

20230330_8-Heidi Horten.jpg


This Bulgari diamond, sapphire, and emerald necklace, seen above, set with a 46.56-carat Old European brilliant-cut diamond as well as baguette-cut diamonds and calibré buff-top sapphires and emeralds, also was up for sale.

A buyer paid $1.6 million for the piece, within its estimate of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

20230330_12-Heidi Horten.jpg
A Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924


Another auction highlight was a diamond, ruby, emerald and onyx Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924, which Horten acquired from Christie’s in Geneva in 2018.

It sold for around $3 million, within its estimate of $2.5 million to $3.6 million.

Another Van Cleef & Arpels piece, a ruby and diamond bird of paradise brooch, seen on the left below, sold for $509,000, well above its $202,000 to $314,000 estimate.

20230330_2-Heidi Horten.jpg


This lion brooch by René Boivin, seen on the right above, is set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and white, yellow, orange, and brown diamonds, and was sold alongside of a pair of “associated” earrings, set with rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds.

The set sold for $662,000, well above its estimate of $258,000 to $404,000.

Christie’s went ahead with the Horten sale on Wednesday in spite of calls from several organizations to halt it after a New York Times report detailed how the late Helmut Horten profited when the Nazis forced Jewish people to sell their businesses at low prices.

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses, as well as Jewish organizations like the American Jewish Committee and the Simon Wiesenthal Center, called on Christie’s to stop the auction or donate a greater portion of the proceeds to Holocaust education.

Following the backlash, the auction house said it will be donating a “significant” portion of the final sale proceeds to unspecified organizations that further Holocaust research and education.

The sale of Horten’s jewels also will benefit The Heidi Horten Foundation, which supports her art museum—The Heidi Horten Collection in Vienna—and other causes.

The second live auction of Horten’s jewelry is scheduled to take place Friday.  

There also will be two online sales, with one taking place now through May 15 and November dates to follow for the remaining jewels.

The Latest

The Luanda Accord signatories at the African Mining Indaba in Cape Town, South Africa
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
At Meeting in South Africa, Support for Natural Diamonds Picks Up Steam

Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.

Bad Bunny Performing Super Bowl LX Halftime Show
TrendsFeb 10, 2026
Bad Bunny Wears Football-Shaped ‘Desert Diamond’ for Halftime Performance

Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.

Miraki Jewels heart diamond signet ring
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRF

Jewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsFeb 10, 2026
Kering Plans Transformation as 2025 Sales Sink 13%

As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.

Weekly QuizFeb 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stuller color of the year 2026 Signature Red jewelry and gemstones
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards Category

The new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being Finalized

The White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

CASE Awards Graphic
Events & AwardsFeb 09, 2026
JA Now Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE Awards

Entries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.

James Free Jewelers Dayton Ohio store
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped Flagship

The Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.

KIL NYC The Pierced Padlock Wounded
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s Day

From heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeFeb 06, 2026
Florida Man Sentenced After Selling Fake Native American Jewelry for a Decade

Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.

Luciano Rodembusch
FinancialsFeb 06, 2026
Pandora’s North America GM Departs Amid Executive Changes

New CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier shared her priorities for the Danish jewelry company this year as part of its fourth-quarter results.

Cece Jewellery Bespoke Wuthering Heights Signet Rings on Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi
TrendsFeb 06, 2026
Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi Wear Matching Cece Jewellery Signet Rings

Our Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.

Pandora platinum
MajorsFeb 05, 2026
Pandora to Begin Selling Platinum-Plated Jewelry

The introduction of platinum plating will reduce its reliance on silver amid volatile price swings, said Pandora.

Entrance to the Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingFeb 05, 2026
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2026, Anglo Mulls Another Writedown

It would be the third impairment charge in three years on De Beers Group, which continues to grapple with a “challenging” diamond market.

Rendering of renovated Borsheims store
IndependentsFeb 05, 2026
Borsheims to Undergo Massive Renovation in the Spring

The Omaha jewelry store’s multi-million-dollar renovation is scheduled to begin in mid-May and take about six months.

Marco Bicego Paradise Amethyst Long Necklace
CollectionsFeb 05, 2026
Marco Bicego’s Amethyst Collection Travels to a Purple Paradise

The “Paradise Amethyst” collection focuses on amethyst, pink tourmaline, garnet, and 18-karat yellow gold beads.

Watches of Switzerland Regent Street London store
FinancialsFeb 05, 2026
Watches of Switzerland Reports Strong Holiday Results in Q3

The retailer credited its Roberto Coin campaign, in part, for boosting its North America sales.

Headshot of Sherry Smith, National Jeweler columnist and vice president of coaching strategy and development at the Edge Retail Academy
ColumnistsFeb 04, 2026
January Jewelry Sales: More Dollars Spent, Fewer Units Sold

Sherry Smith unpacks independent retailers’ January performance and gives tips for navigating the slow-growth year ahead.

Saks Fifth Avenue New York storefront
MajorsFeb 04, 2026
What Designers Should Know About Saks Global’s Bankruptcy

From how to get an invoice paid to getting merchandise returned, JVC’s Sara Yood answers some complex questions.

Jacquie Aiche Raw Amethyst Cluster Starburst Diamond Ring
TrendsFeb 04, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: February Birthstone Bliss

Amethyst, the birthstone for February, is a gemstone to watch this year with its rich purple hue and affordable price point.

Matteo Cuelli
MajorsFeb 04, 2026
Marco Bicego Names New Global Marketing Director

The Italian jewelry company appointed Matteo Cuelli to the newly created role.

Bryan Cowan, Thomas Schwartz, Liliana Estrella
MajorsFeb 04, 2026
Frederick Goldman Updates Leadership Team

The manufacturer said the changes are designed to improve speed, reliability, innovation, and service.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesFeb 03, 2026
Tariff Relief on Horizon for India as Trump, Modi Make Deal

President Trump said he has reached a trade deal with India, which, when made official, will bring relief to the country’s diamond industry.

Jade Trau Spring Summer 2026 Collection Campaign
CollectionsFeb 03, 2026
Jade Trau Releases New Charms, Introduces Rondelles

The designer’s latest collection takes inspiration from her classic designs, reimagining the motifs in new forms.

Casio Headquarters Jersey City, New Jersey
WatchesFeb 03, 2026
Casio America Calls Jersey City Home

The watchmaker moved its U.S. headquarters to a space it said fosters creativity and forward-thinking solutions in Jersey City, New Jersey.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy