Auctions

See the Jewelry Collection Expected to Top Elizabeth Taylor’s at Auction

AuctionsMar 30, 2023

See the Jewelry Collection Expected to Top Elizabeth Taylor’s at Auction

Heidi Horten, wife of department store magnate Helmut Horten, collected jewelry from Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels.

20230330_1-Heidi Horten.jpg
Christie’s will auction jewelry belonging to the late Heidi Horten, including this “Great Mughal Emerald” pendant necklace by Harry Winston. The sale is expected to be record-breaking, fetching an estimated $150 million in total.
Geneva—A private jewelry collection is heading to Christie’s that has to be seen to be believed.

The collection of late Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten, spanning 700 lots, is the largest and most valuable private jewelry collection ever to come to auction, said Christie’s.

The auction house estimates “The World of Heidi Horten” sale will fetch $150 million, surpassing the auction record set by the sale of renowned jewelry lover Elizabeth Taylor’s private collection in 2011 (total: $137.2 million).

Christie’s auction of Taylor’s collection and its 2019 “Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence” auction (total: $109.3 million) have been the only two jewelry collection sales to garner more than $100 million, it noted.

Prior to Taylor, Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, the wife of the former King Edward VIII, held the jewelry collection auction record when sales of her jewels surpassed $50 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in April 1987.

Horten, a native of Vienna, Austria, was a notable collector of jewelry and modern and contemporary art, and an advocate for several causes, including social welfare and sports and medical research.

20230330_2-Heidi Horten.jpg
“The World of Heidi Horten” sale at Christie’s will feature jewelry from several iconic brands, like the jewels from Van Cleef & Arpels and Boivin seen here.


Her appreciation for art and jewelry began in childhood, as she was the daughter of an engraver.

That appreciation grew when she married her first husband, German billionaire Helmut Horten, the entrepreneur behind Horten’s, a now-defunct chain of department stores in Germany.

The pair collected art and jewels together until Helmut’s death in 1987.

For their wedding, Helmut gifted her the “Wittelsbach Blue,” a 35.56-carat natural grayish-blue diamond that formerly has been part of both the Austrian and Bavarian crown jewels.

Christie’s sold the diamond at auction in 2008 to another billionaire, diamantaire Laurence Graff. Graff recut it to 31.06 carats and renamed it the “Wittelsbach-Graff.”

“Heidi was a sensitive and passionate collector with a deep appreciation for jewelry,” said Max Fawcett, head of jewelry at Christie’s Geneva. “She had a discerning eye and curated a sophisticated collection featuring some of the finest jewels ever to come to market.”

“What makes this collection particularly remarkable is the breadth and quality of the gemstones represented,” he added, noting collectors will find everything from costume jewelry to one-of-a-kind high jewelry pieces to historic jewels.

There are several auction highlights among her treasures, including a variety of jewels by Harry Winston and a selection of Bulgari jewels that give an overview of the Italian jewelry house’s work from the 1970s to the present day.

The star of the show, however, is a ruby ring from Cartier last seen at auction in 2015.

The “Sunrise Ruby” and diamond ring features a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby with “exceptional purity,” said Christie’s.

It is expected to sell for $15 million to $20 million, a seemingly low estimate considering it sold for a record-setting $30.3 million eight years ago.

20230330_3-Heidi Horten.jpg
The “Sunrise” ruby and diamond ring, set with a 25.59-carat pigeon’s blood ruby


“Natural rubies of such quality and size are extremely rare,” said Fawcett. “The depth of color, high clarity and brilliance make it one of the most sought-after rubies on Earth.”

Another showstopper is the 90-carat “Briolette of India” diamond necklace, which has an interesting history.

Jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer told Christie’s the stone was first cut in Paris, then sold to Cartier in the early 20th century. Cartier sold it in 1911, set in a brooch, to financier George Blumenthal.


Harry Winston acquired the piece in 1950, said Nadelhoffer, putting the diamond at the center of a marquise and pear-shaped diamond necklace. It was sold to Horten in 1971.

Christie’s did not respond to a request for a pre-sale estimate on the necklace.

Another Harry Winston creation, a three strand natural pearl necklace with an 11.15-carat cushion-shaped pink diamond clasp, is expected to sell for $7 million to $10 million.

20230330_6-Heidi Horten.jpg
A Harry Winston three strand natural pearl necklace with an 11.15-carat pink diamond clasp


“The pearls are incredibly large and have a lovely pink color and an amazing luster,” said Fawcett, calling it “one of the best pearl necklaces we have ever offered at Christie’s.”

A Harry Winston diamond bracelet is projected to sell for $5 million to $7 million.

The “Great Mughal Emerald” pendant necklace, seen at the top of the article and below, also by Harry Winston, set with a 362.5-carat carved emerald, could sell for $500,000 to $700,000.

20230330_7-Heidi Horten.jpg
The “Great Mughal Emerald” pendant necklace by Harry Winston


Horten’s Bulgari collection is especially notable, said Fawcett, ranking it as one of the top five Bulgari collections ever assembled and noting that Bulgari pieces of this caliber command high prices at auction.

“They encapsulate the glamour and hedonism of ‘la dolce vita.’ Collectors are looking for vintage pieces in excellent condition that epitomize the style of the era, and these are the best of the best,” he said.

A Bulgari highlight, seen in the first slide below, is a diamond, sapphire and emerald necklace, set with a 46.56-carat round brilliant-cut diamond.

The piece was first sold by Cartier in 1975 when it was set in a ring. Later acquired by Harry Winston, it was reimagined as a necklace, and purchased by Horten in 1994.

“The explosion of color makes it a real ‘wow’ piece,” said Fawcett. “The geometric design, featuring baguette-cut diamonds and cabochon-cut sapphires and emeralds, is instantly recognizable as Bulgari.”

Christie’s did not respond by press time to a request for pre-sale estimates on the Bulgari jewels.

SEE: Heidi Horten’s Bulgari Collection


“The World of Heidi Horten is the collection of a lifetime,” said Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s international head of jewelry.

“From Bulgari to Van Cleef & Arpels, from a small personal memory piece to the ‘Briolette of India,’ this is a collector’s dream. Building from extraordinary early pieces she acquired in the 1970s and 1980s, Mrs. Horten continued to grow and curate her sophisticated collection, eloquently combining vintage and modern designs from the leading jewelry houses of the world that today represent some of the finest examples ever to come to market.”

 Related stories will be right here … 

The auction also will feature a jade necklace with a jade and diamond clasp that Fawcett called “one of the most important jade necklaces ever offered at auction,” due to the size, color, and translucency of the 25 jade beads.

“To find a collection in Europe with such important jade is extremely rare,” he said, noting it’s mainly popular with Asian collectors due to its cultural association with good luck.

Fawcett also highlighted a diamond, ruby, emerald and onyx Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir, circa 1924, which Horten acquired from Christie’s in Geneva in 2018.

20230330_12-Heidi Horten.jpg
A diamond, ruby, emerald and onyx Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Revival sautoir


While it may not be the most valuable, he predicts its rarity and condition will make it a favorite among collectors.

“It’s so rare to find Egyptian Revival jewels, and this one—depicting a winged scarab with, below it, the goddess Maat, representing truth and harmony—is of museum quality,” he said, adding only two necklaces of this design are known to have been made, and the location of the other necklace is unknown.

Pre-sale estimates were not provided for the jade necklace or sautoir.

Christie’s will present 400 of the 700 jewels via two live auctions at The Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva during Luxury Week this spring.

A viewing will take place in Geneva May 7-12, with the first part of the auction scheduled for May 10, and the second for May 12.

There will also be two online sales. The first online sale will be held May 3-15, with November dates to follow for the remaining jewels.

The collection will be on tour throughout the month of April, stopping in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Vienna, New York, Taichung, Taipei, Dubai, London and Singapore, before heading to Geneva in May.

The sale of Horten’s jewels will benefit The Heidi Horten Foundation, which supports her museum and other causes. Her sizable art collection has a permanent home at The Heidi Horten Collection, an art museum in Vienna.

“This is a historic moment for Christie’s to have the privilege of offering one of the world’s finest and most important jewelry collections originating from Europe,” said Anthea Peers, president of Christie’s EMEA. “Furthermore, to witness a philanthropic effort of this scale is as rare as it is remarkable.”

For more information about the auction, visit Christie’s website.

The Latest

De Beers Diamond View Zoom machine with monitor
GradingOct 24, 2025
DMIA to Hold Diamond Testing Instrument Demo

The workshop will give attendees the chance to try out and ask questions about three different diamond verification instruments.

Two brooches stolen in the October 2025 heist at the Louvre Museum in Paris
CrimeOct 24, 2025
Video Emerges of Louvre Jewelry Robbers Fleeing the Scene

The footage shows two of the jewelry heist suspects descending from the second floor of the museum and then escaping via scooter.

Wyld Box Jewelry Ray of Light Large Drop Earrings
CollectionsOct 24, 2025
Piece of the Week: Wyld Box Jewelry’s ‘Ray of Light’ Earrings

Founder and designer Rosanna Fiedler looked to a vintage Cartier clutch when designing the sunlight-inspired drop earrings.

BTYB10.25_Header.jpg
Brought to you by
Are Earrings an Overlooked Category? What Retailers Need to Know Now

As the holiday season quickly approaches, consider stocking one category that sometimes gets overlooked: earrings.

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock pendant
FinancialsOct 23, 2025
Jewelry Sales Resilient Despite Struggles at LVMH, Kering

The luxury conglomerates faced a challenging Q3 amid geopolitical and economic tensions.

Weekly QuizOct 16, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Cullinan Diamond Mine plant
SourcingOct 23, 2025
Petra Diamonds Turns to Shareholders to Raise Capital

The struggling diamond mining company, which owns the historic Cullinan mine, has launched a rights issue to raise about $25 million.

Million Dollar Hip Hop Watches by Leon Schäfers, Jeanette Lang, Tobias Kargoll
WatchesOct 23, 2025
‘Million Dollar Hip Hop Watches’ Recounts Watch History

The book details the journey of watches as symbols of hard-earned success in hip-hop for artists like 2Pac, Jay-Z, and more.

LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (2) (1).jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Taylor Swift engagement ring Greenwich St
TrendsOct 22, 2025
The Taylor Swift Effect: Antique Diamonds Edition

The superstar’s August engagement put the stamp of approval on an already hot engagement ring trend.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bracelet
TrendsOct 22, 2025
Don’t Forget These Diamond Jewelry Trends When Stocking for the Holidays

Retailers should offer classic styles with a twist that are a perfect fit for layered looks, experts say.

Fancy vivid purplish pink diamond
AuctionsOct 22, 2025
Pink Diamond, Vanderbilt Jewels to Headline Phillips’ Geneva Auction

The nearly 7-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond could sell for around $9 million.

“Storied Diamond Desert Sands of Eternity” engagement ring and wedding band
SourcingOct 22, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey

The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock by Tiffany High Jewelry Lariat
CollectionsOct 22, 2025
Tiffany & Co.’s ‘Bird on a Rock’ Finds New Perch

Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille has reimagined the iconic design in both figurative and abstract creations.

Jewelers for Children Halloween contest
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
JFC Kicks Off Halloween Costume Challenge

Five dollars buys one vote toward an industry professional you want to see dressed up as a hero, or a villain, this Halloween.

Hillsborough show
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
Hillsborough Antique Show Gets New Owner

Recently acquired by KIL Promotions, the November edition of the public show in San Mateo, California, will be held Nov. 7-9.

Bicolor pink and colorless diamond
GradingOct 21, 2025
GIA Examines Rare Bicolor Pink Diamond

The stone’s two zones, one pink and one colorless, may have formed at two different times, the lab said.

Pomellato Rodeo Drive Flagship Exterior
MajorsOct 21, 2025
Pomellato Brings ‘Global Attitude’ to Rodeo Drive Flagship

Hollywood glamour meets Milanese sophistication in the design of Pomellato’s new store in Beverly Hills, California.

Grown Brilliance NYC Flagship Exterior
Lab-GrownOct 21, 2025
Grown Brilliance Opens First Flagship

The New York City store showcases a chandelier with 1,500 carats of lab-grown diamonds designed by an FIT student.

Douriean Fletcher Messenger Collection
Events & AwardsOct 21, 2025
‘Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture’ Opens at MAD

The Museum of Arts and Design's new exhibition features 75 pieces by the designer, best known for her work in the “Black Panther” films.

Sothebys the glowing rose pink diamond
AuctionsOct 20, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 10-Carat Vivid Pink Diamond

Making its auction debut, "The Glowing Rose" is expected to fetch $20 million at the November jewelry sale in Geneva.

2025_Gemfields logo.jpg
SourcingOct 20, 2025
2 Mozambique Police Officers Killed at Gemfields’ Ruby Mine

They were attacked on Oct. 15, as approximately 40 miners without licenses marched on the mine’s gate.

Empress Eugénie’s pearl and diamond tiara
CrimeOct 20, 2025
See the ‘Priceless’ Jewels Stolen During Daytime Heist at the Louvre

It took the masked thieves less than 10 minutes to steal eight irreplaceable jewels from two display cases in the museum’s Apollo Gallery.

Lauren Gayda
SourcingOct 20, 2025
Pristine Gems Names New Director of European Sales

Gemologist Lauren Gayda has previously worked at The Clear Cut, Taylor & Hart, and Effy Jewelry.

Charles London, Mayer and Fran Udell, Mark and Candy Udell
IndependentsOct 17, 2025
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100

In 2026, the jewelry retailer will celebrate a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The Edit – A Gallery of Italian Jewelry Masterpieces Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 17, 2025
An Edit of Italian Jewels Is Coming to NYC

The new showcase dedicated to Italian jewelry design is set for Oct. 29-30.

Judi Powers Jewelry Stella Earrings
TrendsOct 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Judi Powers Jewelry’s ‘Stella’ Earrings

Take a gaze at the sky with this pair of platinum diamond-set star earrings with blue lace agate drops.

Jeffrey Zimmer Reeds Jewelers
IndependentsOct 16, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Jeffrey Zimmer

Jeffrey Zimmer's decades of leadership at Reeds Jewelers are defined by integrity, a love of sourcing gemstones, and a heart for community.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy