Collections

Messika’s New High Jewelry Collection is One for the Gods

CollectionsJul 21, 2022

Messika’s New High Jewelry Collection is One for the Gods

Bold collars and protective symbols make up the glamorous homage to ancient Egypt.

At the heart of Messika’s new “Beyond the Light” collection is the “Akh-Ba-Ka” necklace. It features a suite of impressive diamonds—including a 33-carat cushion-cut stone—all cleaved from the same 110-carat rough.
Paris—Messika’s new high jewelry collection would be fit for Cleopatra. 
 
Presented in Paris earlier this month, “Beyond the Light” takes its inspiration from ancient Egypt. 
 
The choker-filled collection boasts none as impressive as the one found in the “Akh-Ba-Ka” set, which features 15 diamonds cut from the same 110-carat rough recovered from Botswana’s Lucara mine. 
 
“I wanted a strong diamond as an inheritance for the house,” said designer Valérie Messika, whose renowned diamond dealer father André Messika and brother Ilan acquired the stone at the beginning of 2020. 
 
Once the rough stone was cut into its 15 polished shapes, Valérie decided to acquire all of them, and even use them in the same set.
 
“This is a real jewelry challenge,” she explained. “Not all the stones had the same cut; some were very original with surprising, more intricate shapes. But sometimes the most beautiful creations are born from the unexpected.”
 
In ancient Egypt, “Akh-Ba-Ka” meant the union of vital energy and transformation in a person’s flight to the afterlife.

Sourcing the diamonds in the Akh-Ba-Ka collar proved to be a family affair. Valérie Messika’s father André and brother Ilan acquired the 110-carat rough stone in early 2020. “When we won the tender, we were all very happy and surprised. It was the first time that we won a rough diamond of such a large size and of this quality.” Ilan oversaw the intricate mapping and cutting process in what represents a career feat. (Image courtesy of Stephen Lewis)
Sourcing the diamonds in the Akh-Ba-Ka collar proved to be a family affair. Valérie Messika’s father André and brother Ilan acquired the 110-carat rough stone in early 2020. “When we won the tender, we were all very happy and surprised. It was the first time that we won a rough diamond of such a large size and of this quality.” Ilan oversaw the intricate mapping and cutting process in what represents a career feat. (Image courtesy of Stephen Lewis)
 
For the Messika workshop, incorporating so many important diamonds into one collar was a transformation of its own. 
 
Workshop Manager Nicolas Lodolo said the biggest challenge, “was to associate all the different pieces of the 110-carat rough diamond together by enhancing their shine without distorting them.” 
 
While undeniably substantial, the necklace also needed to have a sense of lightness and movement. “The idea was to make the piece almost alive,” Lodolo said.
 
The largest diamond from the 110-carat rough, a 33-carat, D-color, flawless polished stone that Lodolo calls a “once-in-a-lifetime diamond,” required particular consideration. Ultimately, the brand chose to create a snug diamond pave setting mirroring its cushion shape, which can also be removed to transform into a brooch. 
 
 Related stories will be right here … 
 
In total, a team of four to five jewelers spent more than 1,000 hours on the Akh-Ba-Ka set over a period spanning six months, executing Valérie’s vision of a diamond scarab, the symbol representative of transformation in ancient Egypt. 
 
The collar boasts 2,550 diamonds totaling 71.49 carats set in faceted single mine origin white gold. 
 
The Beyond the Light high jewelry collection features four other sets. 
 

The “Golden Shield” comprises a choker molded by hand from a solid gold plate, geometric earrings, and even lip jewelry that reminds one that Valérie Messika is the coolest girl on Place Vendôme.
 
The collar’s mirrored finish is a perfect backdrop for the collar’s dangling pear-shaped diamond. 
 
 There are two versions of the “Divine Enigma” set, one rendered in yellow gold, and one in white for a monochromatic look with rows of diamond pavé and two emerald-cut diamonds as the collar’s focal point. 
 
The emerald-cut diamonds are transformable, also functioning as a double-finger ring. Hoop earrings and rings round out the graphic set. 
 

Injecting a sense of cool and fashion into her familial diamond pedigree, designer Valerié Messika launched her company in 2005. She debuted the brand’s best-selling collection, “Move,” featuring three sliding diamonds, shortly after. 
 
Move gets the high jewelry treatment in the “Move Iconica” set. The signature motif is transformed into necklaces, earrings, and an arm bracelet.

The Oudjat necklace, part of a set also comprising a ring and bracelet (Image courtesy of Messika)
The Oudjat necklace, part of a set also comprising a ring and bracelet (Image courtesy of Messika)
 
“Oudjat” is Messika’s take on the “Udjat,” or the eye of Horus symbol synonymous with ancient Egypt. 
 
The set’s long necklace features a 7-carat marquise-shaped diamond contrasted with black ceramic reminiscent of eyeliner. 
 
Crafted in rose gold, the protective symbol is also seen in the set’s ring and bracelet. 
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

CrimeAug 19, 2022
Suspects Use Bear Spray on NY Jewelry Store Employees During Robbery

Ten masked suspects stole $800,000 in merchandise from a jeweler in the Bronx.

WatchesAug 19, 2022
WatchBox Names Jack Forster Global Editorial Director

He was previously editor-in-chief at Hodinkee.

Supplier BulletinAug 18, 2022
Why Online Auctions Are Ideal For Selling Hard-To-Find Jewelry

Sponsored by HiBid

Brought to you by
The American Mined™ Collection: Ethical Sourcing That Matters

Rio Grande provides a pathway to responsibly sourced gemstones.

ColumnistsAug 18, 2022
Squirrel Spotting: The Travails of Attracting and Retaining Talent

The job market is tight, making it paramount for employers to have the type of culture employees really crave, Peter Smith writes.

Weekly QuizAug 18, 2022
This Week’s Quiz
Test your knowledge of the latest jewelry news with this quick test.
Take the Quiz
MajorsAug 18, 2022
Pandora Charms Pet Owners with New Accessories

The jewelry company has also hired a new chief marketing officer.

CollectionsAug 18, 2022
Hearts On Fire’s Latest Collection Reaches for the Sky

“Aerial” is edgy and glamorous, inspired by nature’s wild forms.

Brought to you by
Knowledge and Skills for Today’s Hot Topics

From laboratory-grown diamonds to design to country-of-origin, GIA's Alumni Collective™ has a seminar to suite your needs.

GradingAug 18, 2022
VDB, Lab Grown Source Add 8X to Cut Grade Search Filter

8X is now the top cut grade on both platforms, above Ideal.

CollectionsAug 17, 2022
Playing Doubles: Monica Rich Kosann, Chris Evert Team Up on Tennis Bracelets

It is the first tennis bracelet collab for the legend, whose lost-and-found moment put the term “tennis bracelet” in the jewelry lexicon.

FinancialsAug 17, 2022
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Double in Q1

The company posted a strong start to the year but is cautious about the second half.

Events & AwardsAug 17, 2022
6 Things to Know About the Second HardRock Summit

The event will bring gems, minerals, and fossils under one roof from Sept. 8-11 in Denver.

SourcingAug 17, 2022
Diamond Supplier SRK Pledges 750 Solar-Power Rooftops

The charitable mission is in honor of India’s 75 years of independence.

Lab-GrownAug 16, 2022
Pandora’s Lab-Grown Diamond Line Heads to the U.S.

The announcement preceded the Danish company’s release of its second-quarter results.

ColumnistsAug 16, 2022
The PR Adviser: Describe Your Customer

Columnist Lilian Raji continues her tour of the customer journey by asking, who is your customer? And, what do they like?

EditorsAug 16, 2022
Tiffany’s ‘Lock’ Bangle May Be Its Answer to Cartier’s ‘Love’ Bracelet

The unisex style succeeds in several ways while saying a lot about what’s trending in jewelry, writes Senior Editor, Fashion, Ashley Davis.

CrimeAug 16, 2022
3 Packages Containing $6.9M in Fake Watches, Jewelry Seized in Ohio

Customs officers in Cincinnati intercepted the shipments in early August, finding counterfeit Cartier jewels and Rolex watches.

SourcingAug 15, 2022
Q&A: Moyo Gems Celebrates 3 Years and Many Milestones

In honor of the anniversary, Pact’s Mines to Markets Director Cristina Villegas discusses recent expansion and where it goes from here.

Events & AwardsAug 15, 2022
David Webb to Hold an Exhibition of Its Animal Jewelry

“A Walk in the Woods” will open at the brand’s Madison Avenue flagship this fall.

Events & AwardsAug 15, 2022
Plumb Club, JVC to Hold Webinar on Sustainability Marketing

The Jewelers Vigilance Committee’s Sara Yood will give an overview of what the FTC guidelines currently say and what may be changing.

Lab-GrownAug 12, 2022
Report: State Bank of India to Begin Lending to Lab-Grown Producers

The loans will go mostly to the import of machinery rather than working capital, according to a recent article from The Economic Times.

FinancialsAug 12, 2022
Brilliant Earth’s Fine Jewelry a Hit in Q2

The company is also continuing its retail expansion.

AuctionsAug 12, 2022
2 Rolexes Paul Newman Gave to Stuntman Stan Barrett Head to Auction

The sale also will include a third Rolex, with all three watches tied to Barrett’s 1979 attempt to break the world record for land speed.

CollectionsAug 12, 2022
Piece of the Week: İTÄ Jewelry’s ‘Danza’ Ring

It mixes diamond shapes and colors.

Supplier BulletinAug 11, 2022
AGTA GemFair™ Denver – Back and Better Than Before!

Sponsored by AGTA

AuctionsAug 11, 2022
Sotheby’s Is Preparing its First Art Jewelry Auction This Fall

“Art as Jewelry as Art” features works from artists like Salvador Dalí, Alexander Calder, and Max Ernst.

IndependentsAug 11, 2022
Martin Katz Is Moving to a Penthouse

The jeweler is relocating his Beverly Hills store after 20 years and has begun developing a lifestyle brand.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy