Auctions

Famed Watch Designer Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak Sells for $2.1M

AuctionsMay 13, 2022

Famed Watch Designer Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak Sells for $2.1M

It became the most valuable vintage Audemars Piguet watch ever sold at auction, according to Sotheby’s.

20220513_Gerald-Genta-header.jpg
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak once owned by watch designer Gerald Genta, featuring an 18-karat yellow gold bezel Genta produced and added himself, sold for $2.1 million at Sotheby’s Geneva this week.
Geneva—Sotheby’s put the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch once owned by famed designer Gerald Genta on the auction block, and it was a hit. 
 
The watch went up for auction in the “Important Watches: Part I” sale in Geneva on May 10, where it sold for approximately $2.1 million at current exchange rates, making it the most valuable vintage Audemars Piguet ever sold at auction, according to Sotheby’s. 
 
Eight bidders competed for almost six minutes before a Swiss collector made the winning bid. 
 
Audemars Piguet first launched the Royal Oak in 1972, revolutionizing the industry as the first luxury sports watch to be made of steel. 
 
The wristwatch features a date component and an octagonal bezel with eight screws. 
 
Genta designed the Royal Oak overnight, drawing his inspiration from a childhood memory of seeing a man being sealed into an old-fashioned diving suit near the Mont Blanc bridge in Geneva. 
 
The circa 1978 Royal Oak watch that went to auction was unique, because it not only marked the first time a Genta-owned watch went to auction, but also because it had the unique specification of an 18-karat yellow gold bezel Genta produced and added himself at his Swiss workshop. 
 
Its sale came as part of a series bringing to market 100 original watch designs from Genta’s personal archives, each paired with an NFT. 
 
The first auction in the “Icon of Time” series was held in Geneva in February, followed by the second auction in Hong Kong in April. 
 
See: More Highlights from “Important Watches: Part I”
In the May 10 auction in which Genta’s Royal Oak appeared, there were also four rare oil paintings from the watch designer, which achieved $2.3 million total. 
 
This brings the running total of works from Genta’s personal archive to $4.3 million, Sotheby’s said. 
 
Outside of Genta’s personal Royal Oak, collectors still wanted to be a part of the watch designer’s history, with 55 Genta-designed models selling to realize a combined total of $10.7 million.
 
Leading this group was a Patek Phillipe Nautilus Ref. 5976 commemorating the model’s 40th anniversary, which sold for approximately $627,400, and a stainless steel Patek Phillipe Nautilus Ref. 5711 with a rare olive-green dial, which sold for about $526,800. 
 
Sotheby’s noted perpetual calendar Royal Oaks were also in high demand, including a Ref. 25554 in yellow gold with a black dial circa 1986 that sold for about $376,500, and a platinum skeletonized perpetual calendar Ref. 25636, which also went for approximately $376,500. 
 
 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Meanwhile, a Rolex Daytona commemorating the achievements of the Dutch football team in the World Cup—one of only 30—went for more than four times its pre-sale high estimate and set an auction record for the reference when it sold for about $439,200. 
 
And a rare Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” in yellow gold circa 1969 sold for approximately $614,700 after almost three minutes of bidding competition among three bidders. 
 
Sotheby’s “Important Watches: Part I” sale totaled $19.3 million and was 86 percent sold by volume. 

It was followed closely by Part II of Important Watches in Geneva on May 11, which totaled $3.8 million. 
 
The final sequence of “Icons of Time” offering designs from Genta’s archives will take place in New York from June 8-22, led by the most valuable Disney watches he ever made. 

The Latest

Arena Club Twilight and Eclipse Time Boxes
TechnologyJul 10, 2026
There’s a New Blind Box for Luxury Watches

Collectibles platform Arena Club’s new Time Boxes could contain a Rolex or Patek Philippe watch.

Jade Trau Constellation Plié Collar
TrendsJul 10, 2026
Jade Trau Creates a Constellation of Diamonds

The “Constellation Plié” collar, our Piece of the Week, features diamonds arranged in a constellation of shining stars.

Former De Beers CFO of Brands and Consumer Markets Shaun Wills
SourcingJul 10, 2026
CFO of De Beers’ Consumer-Facing Division Leaves Company

Shaun Wills joined the company in 2024 and was chief financial officer of the De Beers Brands and Consumer Markets division.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Brilliant Earth watches
WatchesJul 10, 2026
Brilliant Earth Expands Into Watches

In honor of its 20th anniversary, the jewelry brand has released a limited-edition collection of Swiss-made timepieces.

Weekly QuizJul 09, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Boucheron Human Being Collection Tattoo Necklace
CollectionsJul 09, 2026
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to the Human Touch

“Human Being” highlights the similarities and differences between us through five sets of jewelry that celebrate fine craftsmanship.

Baume & Mercier watch
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & Mercier

Richemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Enoch Michael
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
Halstead Names 2026 Grant Winner

Enoch Platero, founder and designer behind Enoch Michael, is the first Native American jeweler to win the award.

Karen Fox and Jenna Siegel
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
AGS, GIA Name 2026 Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also announced the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

Kendra Scott
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Kendra Scott Joins ‘Shark Tank’ As Permanent Investor

The founder of the billion-dollar jewelry and lifestyle brand will debut as a full-time “Shark” on the upcoming season of the show.

Hands crossed with rings on
SurveysJul 08, 2026
Signet Jewelers Falls 5 Spots on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

Plus, why retailers should be ready to adjust as the U.S. population may decline this year for the first time since the Great Depression.

René Lalique “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant
CrimeJul 08, 2026
Here’s What Thieves Stole From the Lalique Museum

René Lalique’s “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant, the first piece the museum acquired, was one of the jewels taken.

Arien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Richline Group Promotes 2 Execs

Arien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian have been elevated into newly created roles.

The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJul 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Diamond Branding and the Origin Paradox

A podcast prompted Smith to share his views on where origin fits into the natural diamond story and the viability of branded diamonds.

Jewelers of America Impact Initiative Recipients 2026
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2026
JA Announces 2026 Impact Initiative Recipients

The association selected eight recipients for the funding program, which is in its second year.

Zahn Z In Rubies We Clicked
TrendsJul 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ruby, White and Blue

Whether celebrating America’s 250th birthday or the USA’s World Cup run, July birthstone jewelry can double as a patriotic accessory.

Police van outside of Musée Lalique
CrimeJul 07, 2026
Thieves Steal Millions in Jewels From France’s Musée Lalique

Around 20 pieces of jewelry were stolen from the museum dedicated to French jeweler and glassmaker René Lalique.

Robinson Pelham Summer of ’96 Campaign
CollectionsJul 07, 2026
Robinson Pelham Is Partying Like It’s 1996

The “Summer of ’96” campaign and collection celebrate the year the brand was founded for its 30th anniversary.

Sean Gilbertson
SourcingJul 06, 2026
Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson Steps Down

After eight years, Gilbertson is leaving his post at the mining company, which is currently facing a slew of operational challenges.

Bachendorf’s New Dallas Location Exterior Rendering
IndependentsJul 06, 2026
Bachendorf’s To Open Fifth Store In Dallas

The new location is set to open this winter, featuring the retailer’s first rotating jewelry designer residency.

Jung Kook for Graff
MajorsJul 06, 2026
Graff Names BTS Star Jung Kook as New Ambassador

The pop artist appears in the latest campaign for the “Laurence Graff Signature” collection.

Pandora pearl jewelry campaign imagery
CollectionsJul 06, 2026
Pandora’s New Baroque Pearl Collection Is a Whimsical ‘Wonder’

One-of-a-kind pearls take the shape of ice cream cones, frogs, submarines, and other imaginative charms.

London Diamond Bourse President Charlotte Rose
SourcingJul 02, 2026
London Diamond Bourse Elects First Female President

Charlotte Rose said her election is “a sign that this is an industry capable of change.”

Bracelets_1872_1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinJul 02, 2026
Elevating Retail Showcases with Today's Necklace & Bracelet Trends

Sponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply

Oscar Heyman Flag Brooch
TrendsJul 02, 2026
Oscar Heyman’s Flag Brooch Celebrates America

The American jewelry house, founded by Latvian immigrants, has been creating American flag brooches since 1917.

D. Geller & Son store mural
IndependentsJul 02, 2026
D. Geller & Son Partners with KSU Art Students on Store Mural

The artwork celebrates the Atlanta jeweler’s legacy and symbolizes its commitment to supporting local artists and its community.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy