Scientists Develop Genetic Testing Method for Coral Identification
Researchers from SSEF and the University of Zurich wanted to be able to separate the species protected by CITES from those that aren’t.
A 2020 study initially found the presence of DNA in precious corals, which led the authors to the conclusion that genetic testing of precious coral jewelry could be used to identify its species.
SSEF began offering coral identification services in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine that summer as a result.
Building upon the 2020 findings, SSEF and the university’s Institute of Forensic Medicine further developed the methodology for genetic testing of precious coral objects, with the aim of being able to separate materials protected by the international treaty called CITES from those that aren’t.
Four precious coral species used in the jewelry trade are listed in CITES’ Appendix III, which means they require species-specific and county-of-origin documentation to be traded and transported across international borders.
Up to now, customs authorities have relied on the color of a coral specimen to indicate the species identity, SSEF said, noting there are issues with this reliability since different coral species can have similar color ranges.
The result of the recent study is designed to aid in this area—the team developed a forensically validated genetic technique called Coral-ID, which uses quasi non-destructive sampling to identify species.
They tested Coral-ID on 20 samples that had been seized by the Swiss customs authorities between 2009 and 2017 because they lacked valid CITES documentation.
Thirteen could be analyzed; three were thought to be from CITES-listed species, while 10 originated from non-CITES-listed species.
The full report was published in in scientific journal Forensic Science International: Genetics and can be found online.
“The research shows the importance of carrying out fundamental science and peer-reviewed research on raw materials used in the jewelry industry. Genetic analysis of precious corals is clearly a very useful tool to achieve greater transparency in the trade,” said SSEF Director Michael S. Krzemnicki.
The Latest
The company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.
The necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.
Jameel Mohammed, founder of Afrofuturist brand Khiry, will receive a cash prize and a one-year paid fellowship with Tiffany & Co.
The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
The 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.
The watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.
Offered by U.K. auction house Woolley & Wallis, the yellow diamond bracelet was a gift from Taylor’s good friend Michael Jackson.
A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
The jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.
Associate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.
The closures are part of the retailer’s plan to close 150 locations over a three-year period.
The online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.
The awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.
The grading lab said the search for her successor is underway.
In this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
A pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.
The peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
Schneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
With versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
The executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.
The New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.
Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.
Adrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.
Officers in Champlain, New York valued the jewels, if genuine, at nearly $30,000.
The “Moonlight Rhapsody” collection is overflowing with gemstones, from raw opal to morganite and spessartite.
The seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.