EditorsJul 12, 2021
5 Things to Know About … CoralSourcingFeb 17, 2022
Scientists Develop Genetic Testing Method for Coral Identification
Researchers from SSEF and the University of Zurich wanted to be able to separate the species protected by CITES from those that aren’t.
Precious coral samples seized by Swiss customs were used to test the new Coral-ID method developed by scientists from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF and the University of Zurich. (Photo credit: SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—Scientists from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF and the University of Zurich have created a new genetic test for coral identification they say provides a breakthrough in traceability.
A 2020 study initially found the presence of DNA in precious corals, which led the authors to the conclusion that genetic testing of precious coral jewelry could be used to identify its species.
SSEF began offering coral identification services in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine that summer as a result.
Building upon the 2020 findings, SSEF and the university’s Institute of Forensic Medicine further developed the methodology for genetic testing of precious coral objects, with the aim of being able to separate materials protected by the international treaty called CITES from those that aren’t.
Four precious coral species used in the jewelry trade are listed in CITES’ Appendix III, which means they require species-specific and county-of-origin documentation to be traded and transported across international borders.
Up to now, customs authorities have relied on the color of a coral specimen to indicate the species identity, SSEF said, noting there are issues with this reliability since different coral species can have similar color ranges.
Related stories will be right here …
A 2020 study initially found the presence of DNA in precious corals, which led the authors to the conclusion that genetic testing of precious coral jewelry could be used to identify its species.
SSEF began offering coral identification services in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine that summer as a result.
Building upon the 2020 findings, SSEF and the university’s Institute of Forensic Medicine further developed the methodology for genetic testing of precious coral objects, with the aim of being able to separate materials protected by the international treaty called CITES from those that aren’t.
Four precious coral species used in the jewelry trade are listed in CITES’ Appendix III, which means they require species-specific and county-of-origin documentation to be traded and transported across international borders.
Up to now, customs authorities have relied on the color of a coral specimen to indicate the species identity, SSEF said, noting there are issues with this reliability since different coral species can have similar color ranges.
The result of the recent study is designed to aid in this area—the team developed a forensically validated genetic technique called Coral-ID, which uses quasi non-destructive sampling to identify species.
They tested Coral-ID on 20 samples that had been seized by the Swiss customs authorities between 2009 and 2017 because they lacked valid CITES documentation.
Thirteen could be analyzed; three were thought to be from CITES-listed species, while 10 originated from non-CITES-listed species.
The full report was published in in scientific journal Forensic Science International: Genetics and can be found online.
“The research shows the importance of carrying out fundamental science and peer-reviewed research on raw materials used in the jewelry industry. Genetic analysis of precious corals is clearly a very useful tool to achieve greater transparency in the trade,” said SSEF Director Michael S. Krzemnicki.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
EditorsJun 12, 2025
15 Questions With Jewelry Photographer Ella SophieThe California-based creative talks jewelry photography in the modern era and tackles FAQs about working with a pro for the first time.
AuctionsJun 12, 2025
Vintage Patek Philippe From the ‘50s Sells for $4M at Sotheby’s Al Capone’s pocket watch also found a buyer, though it went for less than half of what it did at auction four years ago.
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2025
Gabriel Love Foundation Introduces Scholarship Honoring Elias GabrielThe foundation has also expanded its “Stronger Together” initiative with Jewelers for Children.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
AuctionsJun 12, 2025
Former De Beers Exec Celine Assimon Joins BonhamsAssimon is the auction house’s new chief commercial officer.
Weekly QuizJun 12, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsJun 11, 2025
Q&A: Al Cook on Differentiating Natural Diamonds, Traceability, and TariffsThe De Beers Group CEO discusses the company’s new “beacon” program, the likelihood diamonds will be exempt from tariffs, and “Origin.”
MajorsJun 11, 2025
Pandora Bets on Las Vegas for First North American FlagshipThe Danish jewelry giant hosted its grand opening last weekend, complete with a Pandora pink roulette wheel.
Brought to you by
The True Power Behind the Counter: Why Sales Associates Are the Heart of the Jewelry BusinessWhen investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.
GradingJun 11, 2025
Tiffany Stevens Exits IGI, Lab Appoints New Board LeaderIndustry veteran Anoop Mehta is the new chairman and independent director of the IGI board.
Events & AwardsJun 11, 2025
Kering Announces Winners of Sustainability-Focused AwardThe winners of the inaugural “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” are student Lee Min Seo and China-based startup Ianyan.
AuctionsJun 10, 2025
Noonans to Auction 16th-Century Signet RingIt's one of the “Gresham grasshopper” rings English financier Sir Thomas Gresham was known to gift to acquaintances or business associates.
CollectionsJun 10, 2025
Tabayer Names Mary Chiam as CEOThe brand also debuted its new “Zorae” collection featuring a talisman of protection and harmony inspired by a sheaf of wheat.
MajorsJun 10, 2025
Lauren Johansen Joins Loudr As Loudr’s new account manager, Johansen will partner with clients to craft and execute marketing strategies.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2025
And the Winners of the 2025 Couture Design Awards Are … Designers were recognized in 12 categories, from platinum to pearls, before the evening ended with a new, retail-focused award.
AuctionsJun 09, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Sells for $1.2MThe rare turquoise and diamond jewel was the top lot at Bonhams’ June jewelry sale.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2025
Here Are the 2025 Retailer Hall of Fame InducteesThis year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2025
CASE Awards Now Accepting Entries For 2025The deadline to submit is June 16.
MajorsJun 09, 2025
RDI Diamonds Partners With LavalierThe diamond wholesaler is working with the insurance provider to seamlessly offer personal jewelry insurance to RDI retailers’ clients.
CollectionsJun 06, 2025
Piece of the Week: Harwell Godfrey’s ‘Granny Squares Eleanor’ Necklace As an homage to iconic crochet blankets, the necklace features the nostalgic motif through a kaleidoscope of cabochon-cut stones.
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
The 12 Fresh Faces in Couture’s Design AtelierDiscover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las VegasThe entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.
MajorsJun 05, 2025
Platinum Guild International Updates Leadership TeamTwo existing executives have been given new roles.
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Zillion Announces 'Women in STEM' Scholarship RecipientMeredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.
Lab-GrownJun 04, 2025
GIA Reverting to More General Terminology for Lab-Grown DiamondsIt will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”
Events & AwardsJun 04, 2025
As JCK Talks Returns, Don’t Miss These 12 SessionsFrom design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.
CrimeJun 04, 2025
10 Safety Tips for the Las Vegas Shows The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.
MajorsJun 04, 2025
Amy Curran Promoted at Hill & Co.Her new role is director of strategic initiatives.
