EditorsJul 12, 2021
5 Things to Know About … CoralSourcingFeb 17, 2022
Scientists Develop Genetic Testing Method for Coral Identification
Researchers from SSEF and the University of Zurich wanted to be able to separate the species protected by CITES from those that aren’t.
Precious coral samples seized by Swiss customs were used to test the new Coral-ID method developed by scientists from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF and the University of Zurich. (Photo credit: SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—Scientists from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF and the University of Zurich have created a new genetic test for coral identification they say provides a breakthrough in traceability.
A 2020 study initially found the presence of DNA in precious corals, which led the authors to the conclusion that genetic testing of precious coral jewelry could be used to identify its species.
SSEF began offering coral identification services in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine that summer as a result.
Building upon the 2020 findings, SSEF and the university’s Institute of Forensic Medicine further developed the methodology for genetic testing of precious coral objects, with the aim of being able to separate materials protected by the international treaty called CITES from those that aren’t.
Four precious coral species used in the jewelry trade are listed in CITES’ Appendix III, which means they require species-specific and county-of-origin documentation to be traded and transported across international borders.
Up to now, customs authorities have relied on the color of a coral specimen to indicate the species identity, SSEF said, noting there are issues with this reliability since different coral species can have similar color ranges.
Related stories will be right here …
A 2020 study initially found the presence of DNA in precious corals, which led the authors to the conclusion that genetic testing of precious coral jewelry could be used to identify its species.
SSEF began offering coral identification services in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine that summer as a result.
Building upon the 2020 findings, SSEF and the university’s Institute of Forensic Medicine further developed the methodology for genetic testing of precious coral objects, with the aim of being able to separate materials protected by the international treaty called CITES from those that aren’t.
Four precious coral species used in the jewelry trade are listed in CITES’ Appendix III, which means they require species-specific and county-of-origin documentation to be traded and transported across international borders.
Up to now, customs authorities have relied on the color of a coral specimen to indicate the species identity, SSEF said, noting there are issues with this reliability since different coral species can have similar color ranges.
The result of the recent study is designed to aid in this area—the team developed a forensically validated genetic technique called Coral-ID, which uses quasi non-destructive sampling to identify species.
They tested Coral-ID on 20 samples that had been seized by the Swiss customs authorities between 2009 and 2017 because they lacked valid CITES documentation.
Thirteen could be analyzed; three were thought to be from CITES-listed species, while 10 originated from non-CITES-listed species.
The full report was published in in scientific journal Forensic Science International: Genetics and can be found online.
“The research shows the importance of carrying out fundamental science and peer-reviewed research on raw materials used in the jewelry industry. Genetic analysis of precious corals is clearly a very useful tool to achieve greater transparency in the trade,” said SSEF Director Michael S. Krzemnicki.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Sourcing
The Latest
CrimeAug 04, 2026
Crew of Thieves Break Into Indiana Jeweler’s HomeFour men were charged in connection with the break-in and accused of stealing $365,000 in cash, jewelry, and designer goods.
MajorsAug 04, 2026
Pandora Hires Former Signet Board Member to Lead North American MarketAndré Branch has more than 25 years of experience with various brands, most recently serving as CEO of Ariana Grande’s cosmetics company.
MajorsAug 04, 2026
Sasha Primak Acquires GemlokNew York-based atelier Gemlok is best known for creating the innovative “bridge” setting that became popular in the bridal market.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
CollectionsAug 04, 2026
Musician Carlos Santana Launches Jewelry BrandSantana Now's debut collection, “Unidad,” features symbolic motifs as well as pieces of wood from the Woodstock stage.
Weekly QuizJul 30, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeAug 03, 2026
Florida Man Gets 15 Years in Trio of Jewelry Store RobberiesThe 50-year-old man pleaded guilty earlier this year to robbing two jewelry stores and a pawn shop of more than $700,000 in merchandise.
WatchesAug 03, 2026
Citizen's New Spider-Man Watch Is a Collector’s DreamThe watch’s dial features an original design by Marvel comics illustrator Adam Kubert.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
CollectionsAug 03, 2026
Chatham Releases First Men’s CollectionThe new collection of lab-grown diamond and colored gemstone jewelry provides a “fresh perspective” on the category, Chatham said.
TrendsAug 03, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Spinel vs. Peridot While some August babies are team peridot, the month's time-honored birthstone, others are team spinel, the newer alternative.
TrendsJul 31, 2026
These Pieces of the Week Are Sweet Edina Kiss’ “Popsicle” pendant and Karina Choudhrie’s “Ice Cream” charm satisfy that summer craving for a sweet piece of jewelry.
MajorsJul 31, 2026
Macy’s Iconic Red Shopping Bag Sign Torn DownThe massive billboard has been in the same spot on the department store’s Herald Square flagship store for decades.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2026
JA Heads Back to Washington as New Wave of Tariffs Takes Effect David Bonaparte, along with Tim Haake and Ronnie VanderLinden, continue to lobby for tariff exemptions for diamonds, gemstones, and pearls.
SurveysJul 30, 2026
Consumer Confidence Slips in JulySurvey respondents were concerned about the rising prices of food and groceries as well as unemployment.
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Vicenzaoro Releases 2026 Education LineupThe trade show, slated for Sept. 4-8 in Vicenza, Italy, will feature sessions on trends, AI, gemology, and manufacturing.
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Hillsborough Show Moves to New Location for 2026The public shopping event featuring art, jewelry, watches, and rare collectibles, will take place in Santa Clara, California, this fall.
EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for ArkansasShe was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.
Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
