GradingOct 07, 2020
Gübelin to Develop AI Approach to Gemstone Analysis GradingApr 19, 2021
Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds
The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.
In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.
As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.
This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.
The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.
The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.
It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.
To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.
By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian.
The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds.
But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds.
Related stories will be right here …
In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.
As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.
This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.
The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.
The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.
It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.
To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.
By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian.
The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds.
But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds.
Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.
The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.
On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.
In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.
He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.
The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.
“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”
SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.
Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.
A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website.
More on Grading
The Latest
AuctionsDec 12, 2025
13.54-Carat Paraíba Tourmaline Sets Records at Christie’sSet in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window DisplayThe jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene RingTake luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting SubmissionsThis year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”
Weekly QuizDec 11, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool BlueIn its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth StoreThe 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
MajorsDec 11, 2025
Americas Gold Releases New Gold Chain CatalogThe new catalog features its most popular chains as well as new styles.
AuctionsDec 10, 2025
Francis Ford Coppola’s Watch Sells for $10.8MThe filmmaker’s personal F.P. Journe “FFC” prototype was the star of Phillips’ recent record-setting watch auction in New York.
WatchesDec 10, 2025
There’s A New Rolex Boutique in MiamiThe new location in the Design District pays homage to Miami’s Art Deco heritage and its connection to the ocean.
SurveysDec 10, 2025
Consumer Confidence Drops in November Inflations, tariffs, and politics—including the government shutdown—were among consumers’ top concerns last month.
SourcingDec 10, 2025
NAJA Announces Details for 2026 ‘Ace It’ Winter Conference“Longtime favorite” presenters, as well as first-time speakers, will lead talks and workshops at the annual event in Tucson next year.
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2025
MJSA Names 2025 Responsible Design Challenge WinnerSilas Smith of Meridian Metalworks won the challenge with his pendant that blends Australian and American landscapes.
AuctionsDec 09, 2025
‘Desert Rose’ Diamond Sells for $8.8M in Abu DhabiThe sale of the 31.68-carat, sunset-hued stone was part of Sotheby’s first series of events and auctions in Abu Dhabi.
ColumnistsDec 09, 2025
Holiday Sales Happen in December, Most Decisions Don’tMost customers who walk into your store this month have made up their minds. Your job is to validate their choice, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
TrendsDec 09, 2025
‘Once Upon a Time,’ Guzema Debuted Its Holiday CollectionThe collection features characters and motifs from Ukrainian folklore, including an enchanted mirror and a magic egg.
TechnologyDec 09, 2025
Gemvision Releases Updated MatrixGoldMatrixGold 3.11, the newest version of the jewelry design program, offers more flexibility, precision, and creative control.
Events & AwardsDec 09, 2025
MJSA Showcase Pavilion Returning to JA New York The pavilion will be part of the 2026 JA New York Spring show, scheduled for March 15 to 17.
MajorsDec 08, 2025
Juell Kadet, a ‘Lifelong Pillar’ of Rogers & Hollands, Dies at 96Kadet, a 1994 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductee, helped grow the family-owned retailer in the Chicago area and beyond.
TechnologyDec 08, 2025
You’ve Heard of Smart Watches and Rings; Meet Smart EarringsBilled as the world’s smallest wearable, Lumia Health’s new smart earrings have a health tracker subtly embedded in the back.
TrendsDec 08, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Celebrating December’s BirthstonesDon’t let those with December birthdays feel blue. Help them celebrate their month with blue zircon, turquoise, and tanzanite.
CollectionsDec 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s ‘Tsar Star’ EarringsThe new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.
TrendsDec 05, 2025
Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2026 Is … WhiteA choice that’s generated a lot of commentary, Pantone says “Cloud Dancer” marks a fresh start and encourages relaxation and creativity.
MajorsDec 05, 2025
Stuller Releases ‘Wrapped in Wonder’ CampaignThe manufacturer’s holiday campaign features a gift guide filled with trending designs and jewelry that can be personalized.
CrimeDec 04, 2025
Man Arrested After Allegedly Swallowing Fabergé Egg PendantThe man was charged with theft, accused of ingesting the necklace while in a jewelry store in Auckland, New Zealand.
IndependentsDec 04, 2025
Step Inside JR Dunn Jewelers’ Giant New Store The Florida independent expanded its store from 8,000 to 14,000 square feet, fulfilling the vision of its late co-founder, Jim Dunn.
