Grading

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

GradingApr 19, 2021

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.

20210419_SSEF-header.jpg
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.

In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.

As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.

This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.

The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.

The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.

It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.

To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.

By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian. 

The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds. 

But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.

The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.

On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.

In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.

He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.

The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.

“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”

SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.

Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.

A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website

The Latest

Steven Lagos and Keith Rolfe
MajorsSep 10, 2026
Lagos Founder Steven Lagos Steps Down as CEO

Keith Rolfe, CFO and COO of Lagos, is now at the jewelry brand’s helm while Steven takes on the role of executive chairman.

Kat Florence Paraibas
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Massive Matched Pair of Paraíba Tourmalines Head to Sotheby’s

The “Kat Florence Luminas” will be offered together as one lot and could fetch up to $637,000.

AGTA logo
SourcingSep 10, 2026
AGTA Announces 4 Newly Elected Directors

Four directors were elected to the AGTA board and will serve three-year terms beginning in February.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

New Julien’s Auctions CEO Ken Citron
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Former Sotheby’s, Christie’s Exec Appointed CEO of Julien’s Auctions

Ken Citron joins the celebrity memorabilia-focused auction house ahead of its first week-long series of events in Abu Dhabi.

Weekly QuizSep 03, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Blue Nile Ellipse earrings
FinancialsSep 09, 2026
Signet Jewelers to ‘Double Down’ on Blue Nile Amid Strong Sales

The jewelry retailer said it sees opportunity at higher price points, particularly in natural diamonds for bridal and fashion.

Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers family
IndependentsSep 09, 2026
Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers Closes After Nearly 80 Years

The Los Angeles-based, family-owned jeweler was founded by Lenny and Sunny Friedman in 1946.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Fura rubies
SourcingSep 09, 2026
Fura Gems Notes ‘Remarkable’ Interest in Larger Rubies at Latest Sale

The auction, held in Bangkok, was 96 percent sold by lot, with nearly 411,000 carats of Mozambiquan rubies sold.

Stuller Fine Jewelry 2027-2028 catalog
MajorsSep 09, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Catalog Includes Its New Demi-Fine Collection

Fine Jewelry 2027-2028 has more than 900 new styles, including silver, gold-filled, gold-plated sterling silver, and vermeil jewelry.

2018_Stuller-lab-grown.jpg
Policies & IssuesSep 09, 2026
8 Key Changes the FTC Made to the Jewelry Guides: A Refresher

Learn more about the new terms for lab-grown diamonds and composite gemstones, and the major changes in store for precious metals jewelry.

Frederick (Ricky) Wilkinson Bromberg
IndependentsSep 08, 2026
Ricky Bromberg, Longtime President of Bromberg & Co., Dies at 67

Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.

Zahn Z Zaha rainbow sapphire ring
TrendsSep 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Hot Take on September’s Birthstone

With high durability and a wide range of colors to choose from, sapphires may be the ultimate birthstone, Gizzi claims.

The Retail Smiths principal and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsSep 08, 2026
Peter Smith: Humor Is No Laughing Matter

Laughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.

Gretchen Koback Pursel
MajorsSep 08, 2026
Former Tiffany & Co. Exec Joins Exemplar Luxury Group

Gretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.

Rendering of renovated Orloff Jewelers store
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better Location

The California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.

Chelsea Gabrielle Momentum Infinite Ring
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring

A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.

JCK Industry Fund logo
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 Applications

The deadline to apply is Nov. 13.

Remi Guillemin
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of Watches

The auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.

Simon G CEO Zaven Ghanimian
EditorsSep 03, 2026
Q&A: Simon G.’s CEO on Why He Won’t Use AI for Jewelry Design

Zaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.

Jewelers of America logo
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.

Robert Pattinson Jaeger-LeCoultre
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand Ambassador

The British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.

Sydney Evan Little Love Open Coin Fixed Necklace
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New Collections

The “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi Scheme

Nelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.

Sandy Lerner’s 18-karat gold and diamond cat brooch
AuctionsSep 02, 2026
If You Love Cats, This Jewelry Auction Is for You

Cat ladies of the jewelry world, unite. Sandy Lerner’s “significant” collection of cat jewelry and other objects is going up for auction.

Arnaud Michon
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of Americas

Arnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.

Glitter in the Grove Logo
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’

The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy