Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds
The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.

In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.
As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.
This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.
The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.
The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.
It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.
To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.
By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian.
The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds.
But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds.
Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.
The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.
On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.
In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.
He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.
The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.
“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”
SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.
Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.
A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website.
The Latest

The alleged thieves used crow bars and sledgehammers to smash into jewelry stores across the state.

Ahead of the holidays, Smith urges jewelers to take a hard look at who’s buying jewelry, what they’re purchasing, and who’s stopped buying.

In the new consumer-facing campaign, four fashion and lifestyle creators share the stories behind their natural diamond pieces.

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

FGI President John Orrico is also leaving the company after more than 13 years.


The 2026 edition will feature presentations on alternative materials and design trends, as well as pop-up activations on the show floor.

It is the last fully operational diamond mine in Canada following the recent closures of Ekati and Diavik.

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

These jewels stood out at Bonhams’ sale of the cat-loving tech entrepreneur’s collection of objects depicting the feline form.

The fine jewelry brand has expanded the collection that debuted at Couture with four new designs based on its most popular styles.

The AGTA president was elected for a two-year term on the board of directors.

The partnership, a pledge to protect Africa’s Okavango River Basin, has been extended for an additional five years.

The new facility, its first outside of Thailand, will boost its manufacturing capacity by 50 percent.

The special-edition “Dream” pendant, our Piece of the Week, was created to mark Hearts On Fire’s 30-year milestone with 30 diamonds.

Dubai Jewelers in Springfield, Virginia, was once again the target of an armed robbery.

YouGov’s 2026 U.S. Most Recommended Brands report’s out, and a fast-fashion giant is sitting at No. 1 while Rolex is just shy of the top 5.

Proceeds from its jewelry raffle will benefit an organization working in India to combat silicosis, a lung disease affecting stone cutters.

The rings, crafted by Jason of Beverly Hills, celebrate the hockey team’s Stanley Cup win with design elements that honor its traditions.

This roundup of birthstone jewelry for October features vibrant tourmalines and opals with personality.

President Duma Boko spoke at back-to-back events in the city last week, touting Botswana’s stability and the diamond “bounceback.”

The catalog showcases 112 new, one-of-a-kind pieces amid highlights from the jeweler’s historic archive.

Its Montepuez Ruby Mining operation in Mozambique, which is not yielding enough high-quality rubies, has taken a $125 million hit.

Those surveyed were worried about the present and the future, with write-in responses mentioning high oil and gas prices.

The event will take place on the evening of Oct. 26 in New York City.

She is remembered for her joie de vivre, upbeat personality, genuine interest in other people, and love of the Alabama Crimson Tide.

Online bidding is open now for Julien’s sale of items owned by the “Walk On By” singer, whose final album comes out this fall.

The founder and executive chairman of Stuller Inc. is being honored for his impact on the jewelry industry at the 25th annual Gem Awards.


























