Grading

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

GradingApr 19, 2021

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.

20210419_SSEF-header.jpg
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.

In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.

As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.

This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.

The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.

The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.

It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.

To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.

By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian. 

The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds. 

But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.

The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.

On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.

In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.

He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.

The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.

“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”

SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.

Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.

A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website

The Latest

Pandora distribution facility Canada
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Pandora Opens New Canadian Distribution Center Amid Tariff Concerns

The new facility was also designed to better serve its growing customer base in Canada.

Michelle Yeoh Mikimoto
TrendsApr 02, 2026
Michelle Yeoh Fronts New Mikimoto Campaign

The campaign is a tribute to the year 1893, when Kokichi Mikimoto created the world’s first cultured pearl.

DCA Second Spark Workforce Initiative Graphic
MajorsApr 02, 2026
DCA Launches ‘Second Spark’ Workforce Initiative

The initiative connects veterans and parents returning to the workforce with careers in jewelry retail.

GIA iD100®
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Michael Angelo
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Hoover & Strong Names New National Sales Representative

The wholesale manufacturer and precious metals refiner has appointed Michael Angelo as its new national sales representative.

Weekly QuizApr 02, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Pandora and Foundrae medallion jewelry
MajorsApr 01, 2026
Foundrae Sues Pandora for Allegedly Copying Its Medallion Designs

Foundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.

John Jacob Astor IV's Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co., Battin & Co. pencil case
AuctionsApr 01, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Heads to Auction

A Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece owned by the American businessman who died on the Titanic will be offered at Freeman's Chicago.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Stock image of a Shell gas station
SurveysApr 01, 2026
Consumers’ Outlook Improves Again in March

The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index edged up, with optimism about the present outweighing worries about the future.

Zach Bear and the Window Necklace Children’s Book from Zachary’s Jewelers
IndependentsApr 01, 2026
Zachary’s Jewelers’ Constance Polamalu to Release Children’s Book

The retailer’s Zach Bear gift comes to life in “Zach Bear and the Window Necklace,” which centers on curiosity, bravery, and helping.

Accredited Gemologists Association Logo
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2026
AGA Opens 2026 Gemological Scholarship, Research Grant Applications

Applications are open for the AGA Gemological Scholarship Program through May 15, and until June 2027 for the Gemological Research Grant.

National Jeweler columnist and Smart Age founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMar 31, 2026
Q1 Clues That Reveal Where Your Jewelry Store’s Sales Are Heading

These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Mejuri Puzzle Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Mejuri Adds Silver to ‘Puzzle’ Collection

Mejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.

Ashley Longshore in Buddha Mama jewelry
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Buddha Mama, Ashley Longshore to Host Pop-Up in Dallas

The Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.

Natural Diamond Council world diamond day
SourcingMar 31, 2026
NDC Designates April 8 as 'World Diamond Day'

The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.

Jillian Wolk, the new CEO of Tracr
SourcingMar 31, 2026
GIA VP Jillian Wolk to Take Over at Tracr

Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.

Tom Moses examining the “Motswedi” diamond
EditorsMar 30, 2026
Tom Moses Looks Back on His Decades at GIA

Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.

Oscar Heyman Spring Catalog Aquamarine and Diamond Necklace and Platinum Opal, Sapphire, Emerald, Diamond Bracelet
TrendsMar 30, 2026
Oscar Heyman Debuts First Spring Catalog

The new catalog, which showcases 35 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry, is a compliment to the company’s popular holiday catalog.

Diavik Diamond Mine winter aerial shot
SourcingMar 30, 2026
Rio Tinto Hauls Last Load from Diavik

Production has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.

Tanishq Westborough Massachusetts store
MajorsMar 30, 2026
Tanishq Opens First New England Location

The store opening marks the 10th United States location for the India-based jewelry retailer.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 Stores

Two Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.

Jimmy West celebrating 40 years with Leading Jewelers Guild
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72

West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.

Itä Yari Whirl Ring Tesoro
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the Story

In the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.

Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen
WatchesMar 26, 2026
Q&A: Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen on Eco-Drive’s 50th Anniversary

Cohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.

Peter Smith Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople
IndependentsMar 26, 2026
Peter Smith Pens Book on Human Behavior in Sales

“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.

Lionheart Cassandane Collection Campaign
CollectionsMar 26, 2026
Lionheart Celebrates 13 Years of ‘Cassandane’

The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.

Instappraise NAJA
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Introduce New Scholarship

It’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy