Grading

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

GradingApr 19, 2021

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.

20210419_SSEF-header.jpg
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.

In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.

As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.

This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.

The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.

The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.

It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.

To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.

By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian. 

The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds. 

But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.

The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.

On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.

In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.

He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.

The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.

“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”

SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.

Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.

A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website. 

The Latest

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeOct 20, 2026
Security Guard Charged With Murder in Shooting at Texas Mall

The guard opened fire on a man who was smashing a jewelry display case at La Gran Plaza in Fort Worth last week, police said.

David Gardner’s Jewelers interior
IndependentsOct 20, 2026
David Gardner’s Jewelers Unveils Newly Expanded, Revamped Showroom

The Texas jeweler added 2,000 square feet to its reimagined showroom, complete with a new design studio and an event space.

Kylie Jenner Fantasy Bra Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show
SourcingOct 20, 2026
The $50M Victoria’s Secret ‘Fantasy Bra’ By The Numbers

Jacob & Co.'s diamond masterpiece is the most expensive Fantasy Bra ever worn on the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show runway.

lab channel btyb 0926.png
Brought to you by
Open an Account, Get $50 Off Your First Order. No Code Needed.

Built on Relationships. Refined by Craft.

Mignon Faget Atelier Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 20, 2026
Mignon Faget’s Collection Chooses Handmade Over AI

The “Atelier” collection was inspired by the tools, rituals, and objects in an artist’s studio as a quiet rebuttal to an automated world.

Weekly QuizOct 15, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
 Rio Grande engagement ring and band
MajorsOct 19, 2026
The Knot to Acquire Rival Wedding Planning Platform Zola

The pending acquisition is an “exciting opportunity” for wedding vendors to grow their business, said The Knot Worldwide’s CEO.

The Secret Gems Thailand
SourcingOct 19, 2026
Jewelry Design Competition Show Airs in Thailand

"The Secret Gems" features eight Thai jewelry brands paired with a team of young craftspeople who create jewelry together to win challenges.

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

John Hardy Modern Talisman Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsOct 19, 2026
John Hardy Enters the Medallion Chat With Talisman Collection

The brand’s “Modern Talisman” capsule collection introduces pendants inspired by the mythology, natural world, and spiritual ethos of Bali.

Collage of independent jewelers celebrating their 100th anniversary in 2026
IndependentsOct 19, 2026
The Stories of 5 Jewelers Celebrating Their Centennials in 2026

Independent jewelers from New Mexico to New Jersey answer the question: What has kept your store in business for 100 years?

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysOct 16, 2026
How Inflation, Gas Prices Will Affect Holiday Sales

The NRF is expecting holiday sales to increase this year, but consumers and retailers alike are facing Grinch-like headwinds.

Christina Puchi Gemstone Earrings
CollectionsOct 16, 2026
Christina Puchi’s Earrings Hold the Universe

Our Piece of the Week gathers the planets, represented by a variety of colored gemstones, in a pair of 14-karat yellow gold earrings.

Reeds Jewelers Fayetteville
IndependentsOct 16, 2026
Reeds Jewelers Expands, Relocates Flagship

The New York-based jeweler is moving its Amherst flagship store to a larger location in nearby Snyder.

Graff USA Executive Vice President Katy Chen
MajorsOct 16, 2026
Katy Chen Appointed Executive Vice President of Graff USA

Chen, who worked at Cartier and Tiffany & Co., will lead retail sales and operations for the luxury jeweler’s 11 U.S. stores.

Elise & Amy Greenberg
IndependentsOct 15, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Amy and Elise Greenberg

For 40 years, sisters Amy and Elise Greenberg have helmed their 126-year-old family business, leading with appreciation and integrity.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 15, 2026
Peter Smith: What Is the Culture REP?

It’s a term Smith coined and felt compelled to share following a bad experience with an aborted flight and an unfeeling flight attendant.

Stephanie Gottlieb Movado watches
WatchesOct 15, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb’s New Movado Watches Are Made for Your Wrist Stack

Movado teamed up with the New York-based fine jewelry designer on a new collection of Movado Museum Velura watches.

Polished diamond in tweezers
SourcingOct 15, 2026
Signet Jewelers, Richemont May Join Bidder for De Beers, Report Says

The two companies are reportedly in talks to join the Global Diamond Consortium, led by former De Beers CEO Gareth Penny, as per Bloomberg.

Wolf x Marla Aaron Some of the Things Box
CollectionsOct 15, 2026
Wolf x Marla Aaron's New Jewelry Box Is for Some (Not All) of Your Things

The “Some of the Things” box follows the two larger “Everything” box designs with the look and function of antique sewing and toolboxes.

Coleman Clark and Mitchell Clark
IndependentsOct 14, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Coleman and Mitchell Clark

Fourth-generation jewelers Coleman and Mitchell Clark exemplify the best qualities of their predecessors: humility, modesty, and confidence.

Manual Marcial de Gomar
SourcingOct 14, 2026
Manuel Marcial de Gomar, ‘The Emerald Whisperer,’ Dies at 90

The gem hunter, whose 70-year career was defined by adventure and exploration, is remembered for his steadfast faith and sense of wonder.

Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Box Café by Daniel Boulud at South Coast Plaza
FinancialsOct 14, 2026
LVMH’s Jewelry Brands Turn in ‘Very Good’ Performance in Q3

Tiffany & Co. continued its full-scale store renovation project while Bulgari’s high jewelry collection generated “record-breaking revenue.”

Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference 2026 Graphic
Events & AwardsOct 14, 2026
Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference Releases 2026 Program

This year’s sessions feature leading voices from human rights, legal, and conservation organizations.

Lugano Diamonds Greenwich Connecticut store
MajorsOct 13, 2026
David Webb Owner Purchases Lugano Jewelry

The high-end jewelry retailer was sold to private investment firm Middle West Partners and a group of longtime clients.

Stephanie Gottlieb Wholesale Lab-Grown Collection
Lab-GrownOct 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Takes Lab-Grown Diamond Collection Wholesale

The jewelry designer has partnered with Sofer Jewelry to distribute her 85-piece lab-grown diamond collection.

Sean Dunn
IndependentsOct 13, 2026
Retailer Hall of Fame 2026: Sean Dunn

Dunn, this year’s Single-Store Independent inductee, is passionate about innovation and telling the story of natural diamonds.

Bulgari pink diamond
AuctionsOct 13, 2026
Christie's Geneva To Auction 'Bulgari Pink' Diamond

The 24-carat fancy intense pink diamond ring could fetch up to $18 million at the November sale.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy