GradingOct 07, 2020
Gübelin to Develop AI Approach to Gemstone Analysis GradingApr 19, 2021
Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds
The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.
In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.
As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.
This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.
The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.
The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.
It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.
To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.
By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian.
The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds.
But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds.
Related stories will be right here …
In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.
As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.
This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.
The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.
The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.
It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.
To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.
By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian.
The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds.
But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds.
Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.
The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.
On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.
In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.
He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.
The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.
“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”
SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.
Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.
A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website.
More on Grading
The Latest
ColumnistsJan 21, 2025
Peter Smith: Sales Training’s Dirty Little SecretPeter Smith pulls back the curtain on the often misinterpreted, and sometimes maligned, world of sales training.
TrendsJan 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Decadent Mocha MoussePantone’s 2025 Color of the Year takes the form of jewelry through gemstones and enamel that look just as delicious as mocha mousse.
Policies & IssuesJan 21, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
SourcingJan 21, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Adds 2 Board MembersJulia Hackman Chafé and Monica Elias have joined the organization’s board of directors.
Weekly QuizJan 16, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
FinancialsJan 17, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Rise 14% in Holiday QuarterThe company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.
CollectionsJan 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Picchiotti’s Transformable ‘Classic Blue and Green’ NecklaceThe necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday CampaignA Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
MajorsJan 17, 2025
Tiffany & Co., CFDA Name First Winner of Jewelry Designer AwardJameel Mohammed, founder of Afrofuturist brand Khiry, will receive a cash prize and a one-year paid fellowship with Tiffany & Co.
IndependentsJan 16, 2025
Lux Bond & Green to Open Sixth LocationThe 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.
WatchesJan 16, 2025
Timex Launches Collection of National Park WatchesThe watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.
AuctionsJan 16, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Line Bracelet Going up for Auction Offered by U.K. auction house Woolley & Wallis, the yellow diamond bracelet was a gift from Taylor’s good friend Michael Jackson.
Events & AwardsJan 16, 2025
JCK Las Vegas 2025 Open for RegistrationThe jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.
EditorsJan 15, 2025
The Jewelry I’d Bid On in Christie’s Iris Apfel AuctionAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.
MajorsJan 15, 2025
Macy’s to Close 66 Stores as Part of Turnaround StrategyThe closures are part of the retailer’s plan to close 150 locations over a three-year period.
Policies & IssuesJan 15, 2025
JVC Debuts Guide to Americans with Disabilities Act ComplianceThe online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Open for SubmissionsThe awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and IndustryIn this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall ShortThe peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand OfficerSchneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking GemfieldsGemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart RingWith versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical MetalsmithsThe executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm BeachThe New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ BroochAdrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.
SourcingJan 10, 2025
De Beers, GJEPC Partner to Promote Natural DiamondsThe pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.
