EditorsMar 25, 2021
5 Things to Know About … RhodochrositeEditorsJul 12, 2021
5 Things to Know About … Coral
What the industry should know about regulations, what kinds of coral are considered precious, and more about the rare material.
Loose Sardinian coral beads from Assael
Coral is one of the oldest materials used by humans to adorn their bodies, offering vibrant pops of color in jewels dating all the way back to antiquity.
But, as is the case with most materials used for adornment, there’s a lot to learn about coral—the proper nomenclature, classification, how it’s protected, and more.
In an effort to offer clarity on the subject and an appreciation for the beauty and complexity of coral, here are five things to know about it.
1. It’s important to distinguish among the types of coral.
Nomenclature is an important conversation in many facets of the industry and coral is no exception, so I want to start here.
Corals are, as we know, tiny marine polyps—spineless organisms with a soft body and external skeleton made of calcium carbonate, according to GIA. The animals belong to the Cnidaria phylum, which includes more than 9,000 species.
But coral is a huge, diverse group, and comparing them would be like comparing all mammals, gemologist, gem education consultant, and coral expert Rui Galopim de Carvalho said in a recent interview.
Per the CIBJO Coral Blue Book, the trade defines “precious” corals as those used in jewelry that belong to one taxonomical group: the Corallidae family. Specifically, they are from the genus Corallium, Pleurocorallium, and Hemicorallium.
Fewer than a dozen coral types are considered precious, according to de Carvalho. (A comprehensive list of them is available on the Gem-A website.)
But, as is the case with most materials used for adornment, there’s a lot to learn about coral—the proper nomenclature, classification, how it’s protected, and more.
In an effort to offer clarity on the subject and an appreciation for the beauty and complexity of coral, here are five things to know about it.
1. It’s important to distinguish among the types of coral.
Nomenclature is an important conversation in many facets of the industry and coral is no exception, so I want to start here.
Corals are, as we know, tiny marine polyps—spineless organisms with a soft body and external skeleton made of calcium carbonate, according to GIA. The animals belong to the Cnidaria phylum, which includes more than 9,000 species.
But coral is a huge, diverse group, and comparing them would be like comparing all mammals, gemologist, gem education consultant, and coral expert Rui Galopim de Carvalho said in a recent interview.
Per the CIBJO Coral Blue Book, the trade defines “precious” corals as those used in jewelry that belong to one taxonomical group: the Corallidae family. Specifically, they are from the genus Corallium, Pleurocorallium, and Hemicorallium.
Fewer than a dozen coral types are considered precious, according to de Carvalho. (A comprehensive list of them is available on the Gem-A website.)
Assael’s Beyond Rare Angel Skin coral necklace featuring beads of approximately 16 mm to 30 mm in size, with a platinum clasp and 6.39 carats of diamonds (price available upon request)
Assael loose Angel Skin coral beads
Outside of the Corallidae family, there are a few other coral types occasionally used for decoration.
Referred to as common corals, they are mostly calcareous types and frequently need treatments like bleaching, dyeing or impregnation to be used as gems, he added.
Within that, there are some are biologically known as reef corals, which is what might first come to mind when talking about coral—the colorful coral reefs in shallow waters that can be admired while snorkeling.
Reef corals, which are most affected by climate change and ocean acidification, grow in warm, clear, shallow water.
Precious corals, meanwhile, are solitary or colonial in habit, Gem-A President Maggie Campbell Pedersen wrote in a 2017 article, adding that they grow at greater depths, making them less vulnerable to changes in water temperature.
Precious coral is generally located and harvested 50 meters or more below the surface (one exception is the harvesting of Mediterranean coral) and belongs to a different ecosystem than reef-building coral.
Precious coral is fished in such a way—when done legally and responsibly—that it doesn't destroy the environment, according to CIBJO.
A group of international experts from two international universities have been tasked with further research on the sustainability of precious coral use/trade.
(It’s worth noting that academics use the term “precious” to refer to coral of any type or species that has been used for adornment, regardless of where and how it grows. This means different sources could be talking about different groups of coral.)
2. Here’s what you should know about how coral is regulated.
Endangered and threatened species are protected by an international treaty called CITES. It aims to ensure international trade doesn’t threaten a wild animal or plant’s survival.
Within CITES, species are listed in three Appendices, according to the degree of protection they need.
Appendix I includes species threatened with extinction; trade in those species is prohibited except for exceptional circumstances.
Appendix II includes species that aren’t necessarily threatened with extinction but may become so unless trade is closely controlled. This requires trade be monitored and meticulously documented with strict regulations.
Orange coral trunk weighing 281.30 grams from the South China Sea, gift of Edward R. Swoboda (© GIA)
These samples show calcareous coral’s typical color range and wavy fibrous growth structure. (Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, © GIA)
Appendix III lists species which are not considered threatened but for which a country that already regulates its trade is asking for help in controlling it internationally to prevent exploitation. The main objective here is monitoring and resource management.
For Appendices I and II, species can be added, removed, or moved between the two lists only at a conference involving all parties, but they can be added to or removed from Appendix III at any time.
De Carvalho said there is no precious coral currently listed in Appendix I or Appendix II.
He did note that blue coral (Heliopora coerulea)—not classified as precious by the trade but sometimes used in jewelry—is listed in Appendix II.
Additionally, black coral (of the order Antipatharia) has been used in jewelry and also is listed in Appendix II.
Precious corals listed in Appendix III includes the deep-red Corallium japonicum, (also known as aka or “oxblood” coral), Pleurocorallium elatius (Angel Skin is a member of this species), Pleurocorallium konojoi, and Pleurocorallium secundum.
3. Precious coral offers a handful of colors.
The corals considered precious by the trade are rare, beautiful, have a uniform color, and a porcelain-like luster after polishing.
They also have a historical significance, de Carvalho said.
For example, Mediterranean coral has been used for thousands of years and is featured in old scriptures.
According to GIA, coral also has a rich lore—Ancient Romans believed it calmed the ocean waves, while in the Victorian era, coral beads were worn to ward off evil spirits.
Gemologically, precious corals are primarily comprised of calcium carbonate, making them relatively durable (they have a hardness of 3 on the Mohs scale, though, so are still soft compared to most gem materials), and can occasionally have a very strong color, which increases their attractiveness.
But the strong red that can be seen fine Mediterranean coral, for example, is just one of a handful of colors available from precious coral.
There’s also pink/salmon, white, cream, and various shades of orange.
4. Here’s what the market typically looks for.
Among the most valued types of coral in the trade is Angel Skin, the homogenous light pink variety of P. elatius, which gets its color from an albino-like disorder, de Carvalho wrote in a recent blog post on Assael’s website.
Peggy Grosz, senior vice president of Assael, which sources coral responsibly for its jewels, said: “Matching is critical in a strand or a necklace, not only in color but also in quality. And when you consider the rarity of Angel Skin coral, it is truly a treasure to have an entire strand.”
She said that unlike nacreous pearls, a well-matched Angel Skin coral necklace would almost always need to come from the same source material, so if there’s enough of it, it wouldn’t take as long as matching a gem-quality South Sea pearl necklace, for example.
There’s also the traditional species from the Mediterranean and the adjacent Atlantic Ocean, Corallium rubrum, referred to as Sardinian coral or Mediterranean coral and highly valuable in its strong red form.
Fishing for these corals now is heavily regulated by the U.N.’s General Fisheries Commission for the Mediterranean.
Harvesting below 50 meters is limited to minimum trunk sizes and only to very experienced divers, de Carvalho wrote.
Japanese aka coral is also among some of the finest, according to De Carvalho, which the trade often calls “oxblood.”
It’s very valuable, especially in its deep red colors, so much so that Chinese consumers normally buy it up before it can even reach the European or North American markets.
Assael, which carries both Angel Skin and Mediterranean coral, has seen demand for coral grow as desire for rare materials increases.
Grosz said more people are learning the differences between precious and reef coral as they aim to educate themselves, especially given that more of the major luxury houses are using precious coral in their new jewelry collections.
Increased demand has driven up prices for coral, she said.
And, as is usually the case, prices are higher for larger pieces of coral, with Grosz noting branches that are thick and/or wide are “few and far between.”
Alexandra Mor Mediterranean coral and diamond chandelier earrings in 18-karat white gold ($38,130)
Luvente coral and diamond 14-karat yellow gold earrings ($1,060)
Assael’s Pagoda earrings, featuring responsibly sourced Sardinian coral drops and 3.05 carats of marquise diamonds in 18-karat yellow gold ($40,800)
5. Here are resources to make sure you have the right information and rules.
It’s important for the trade to understand coral so they can help communicate clearly their decision to use, or not use, the material.
“At least with the right information people can decide whether to buy or not to buy coral jewelry,” de Carvalho said.
CIBJO has had a Coral Commission since 2014. Both de Carvalho and Assael President and CEO Christina Lang Assael sit on it.
The commission aims to research and talk about conservation and sustainability, as well as to inform the jewelry industry about coral regulations.
CIBJO created a Coral Blue Book, which gives a comprehensive look at the correct terms to be used, what the trade needs to know about coral types, and the regulations they should keep in mind if they decide to buy or sell coral. It also lists harvesting areas that have adopted sustainable fishery regulations.
Keep in mind import/export rules for where a business is based.
In the U.S., coral is subject to regulations; these requirements include declaration and licensing permits from the United States Fish & Wildlife Service (USFWS) for importation/exportation and additional declarations required by U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) upon import. Visit the USFWS website for more information about what is required and allowed.
Ultimately, sustainability and responsible sourcing should be at the forefront of anyone’s mind who’s working in precious materials of any kind.
After all, even though precious coral might not be as at risk as reef coral, it’s still a living organism that’s sensitive to increased acidity in water, rising sea levels from global warming, pollutants, and physical dangers like fishing nets, divers and overfishing, Gem-A’s Pedersen wrote.
It’s up to the trade to make sure coral is protected.
If you decide to trade in harvested goods rather than just using material that has been on the market already, do your due diligence to obtain your coral from a reliable source that’s following the rules to ensure the continued safety and existence of the living creatures.
A jeweler purchasing coral with the intent to export for sale should verify the seller has the appropriate CITES permit for the coral, and check with USFWS before importing/exporting animal products.
Editor’s note: This story was updated on July 14 to include information about black coral.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
EditorsJun 15, 2020
5 Things to Know About … Taaffeite
EditorsMar 16, 2020
5 Things to Know About … ForditeMore on Editors
The Latest
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino StoreThe jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.
Weekly QuizJul 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New YorkThe watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is FruitfulThe “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New BoutiqueIt’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New OwnershipThe show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond MarketSmith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald AcquisitionFormer Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches MetamorphosizeThe 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De BeersA Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones ExemptThe new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High JewelryThe collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of InstoreShe will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 EventOrganizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ CampaignWoodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot SaleA WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens MemoirThe founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination PeriodSubmissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.
SourcingJul 16, 2026
Ekati to Close, Leaving Canada With One Diamond Mine The diamond mine, which opened nearly 30 years ago in Canada’s Northwest Territories, is expected to shut down by mid-August.
FinancialsJul 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Soar for the Seventh Quarter in a RowJewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program Certifies First Advanced Apprentice GraduateThe graduate, Grace Barden, credited the program with helping her secure a job as a bench jeweler.
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
Jewelers of Louisiana to Host 80th ConventionThe event, scheduled for next month in New Orleans, will include dinner, a custom jewelry design contest, and education sessions.
