Sourcing

This $2M Yellow Diamond Is Shrouded in Black

SourcingSep 17, 2019

This $2M Yellow Diamond Is Shrouded in Black

An artist made one of LJ West’s stones “disappear” to make statements on contrast, value and the monopolization of materials in the art world.

20190917_Redemption_of_Vanity_header.jpg
This $2 million fancy vivid yellow SI1 diamond owned by L.J. West is on display at the New York Stock Exchange until late November, but it doesn’t look anything like this.

New York—There is a $2 million diamond on display at the New York Stock Exchange right now, but you can’t really see it.

On Friday, the New York Stock Exchange and MIT opened “The Redemption of Vanity,” a work by conceptual artist Diemut Strebe that involved coating a 16.78-carat vivid yellow diamond with carbon nanotubes, muting the diamond’s color, flattening its lines and making it essentially invisible against a black background.

The stone is from the collection of L.J. West Diamonds Inc., a New York-based company that specializes in natural colored diamonds.

In an interview at the stock exchange Friday, the Boston-based Strebe said her project has numerous aspects to it, standing as a statement on contrast, value and the monopolization of materials in the art world.

There is, first, the juxtaposition of the two materials, the “unification of extreme opposites,” she said.

While both the diamond and the tubes are made of the same element, carbon, one absorbs light while the other reflects it.

The patented carbon nanotube technology used in Redemption was developed by Professor Brian Wardle and his necstlab (pronounced “next lab”) research group at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. (Strebe is the Ida Ely Rubin Artist in Residence at MIT.)

Any object covered with CNT material is flattened out, reduced to a black silhouette, and, in the case, of a diamond, loses its sparkle.

At the New York Stock Exchange, the now-shrouded-in-black stone sits at one end of the Board Room, an opulent turn-of-the-century event space located two levels above the trading floor.

On display to the left of the diamond is a juxtaposing image indeed—a giant screen displays a rotating, 360-degree image of the 16.78-carat vivid yellow radiant-cut stone, sparkling in its polished state.

Secondly, Strebe said she wanted the work to be a statement on the arbitrary and man-made nature of value, a topic that artists—she mentioned specifically French artist Yves Klein, who once organized an exhibition that consisted of nothing but an empty room—have been creating works around for decades.


These photos by Diemut Strebe show the 16.78-carat vivid yellow before and after the introduction of the carbon nanotube material, which was applied via heating and can be removed.
In looking at The Redemption of Vanity, one might say the artist has devalued this diamond by concealing what is considered, in the diamond world at least, to be valuable about it—its

saturated and evenly dispersed color.

But, she pointed out, someone could see value in the piece as a work of art and offer to pay more for it; objects are worth what they are perceived to be worth.

“People take this man-made system [of value] as the physical laws of nature,” Strebe said, “and it is not.”

Strebe said she approached, and was rebuffed by, a number of big-name jewelers about lending her a diamond for her project before coming across the name L.J. West in an CNN article. She eventually got in touch with company President Larry West, and the longtime diamantaire readily agreed to participate.

West said he’s always had an interest in the sciences—he actually wanted to be a scientist before his father died in the early 1970s and he had to step in to help run the family business—and he also likes the questions the exhibition raises about the arbitrary nature of value.

Is the diamond worth more now, or less?


“The Redemption of Vanity” is on display at the New York Stock Exchange, which artist Diemut Strebe considers the perfect setting for a statement on value as it is an epicenter of rising, and falling, value. (Photo credit: Michelle Graff)


West chose this particular stone from his company’s vast collection because of its size—almost 17 carats—and because it had so much brightness, color and brilliance, a fitting contrast to the matte nature of the CNT material.

In addition to serving as a commentary on contrast and value, The Redemption of Vanity stands as a statement against the purchase of exclusive rights to a carbon nanotube formula for use in artwork by British sculptor Anish Kapoor (he did the sculpture in Chicago’s Millennium Park popularly known as “The Bean”).

Strebe said monopolization of materials in this manner is a “business approach” that does not have a place in art. The CNTs Wardle and Strebe created for the diamond exhibition use a different composition that’ll be available for any artist to use.

The Redemption of Vanity will be on display at the New York Stock Exchange until Nov. 25.

It is available for viewing by appointment only. To schedule one, email peter.asch@nyse.com.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

CD Peacock Mansion in Oak Brook, Illinois
EditorsNov 22, 2024
Out & About: Inside the CD Peacock Mansion

Step inside the nearly 21,000-square-foot suburban Chicago jewelry store with Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff.

Xander Jane earrings
CollectionsNov 22, 2024
Piece of the Week: Xander Jane’s ‘Spiked’ Pearl Studs

These punk-inspired earrings from the new Canadian brand’s debut collection reveal the alter ego of the classic pearl.

5 main.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 21, 2024
Tasha R Releases 2025 Labbelle Lab Diamond Jewelry Catalog

Sponsored by Tasha R

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

18-karat gold Tiffany & Co. pocket watch Captain Arthur Rostron
AuctionsNov 21, 2024
Gold Watch Gifted to Titanic Rescue Ship Captain Sells for $2M

Three Titanic survivors presented him with the personalized Tiffany & Co. timepiece about a year after the tragedy.

Weekly QuizNov 21, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Harris Jewelry storefront
MajorsNov 21, 2024
Harris Jewelry Ordered to Reopen Claims Portal for Refund Requests

A federal court found that the jewelry store chain violated terms of the settlement reached after it was accused of defrauding customers.

Cynthia Erivo wearing Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo collection
CollectionsNov 21, 2024
Channel Elphaba in Muse’s ‘Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo’ Collection

Cynthia Erivo chose Dreams of Hope, an organization dedicated to empowering LGBTQA+ youth, as the charity for this year’s collection.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Rocksbox San Francisco store
MajorsNov 21, 2024
Rocksbox Opens Pop-Up Store in San Francisco

The new space was designed to evoke a warm, inviting vibe.

Mary Moses Kinney
IndependentsNov 21, 2024
Mary Moses Kinney Is Now Part of The Edge’s Team

Kinney, who spent nearly 30 years at IJO, has been hired to head Abbott Jewelry Systems’ new virtual marketplace.

Sotheby’s New York building
CrimeNov 20, 2024
Sotheby’s to Pay $6.25M Settlement to NY State for Alleged Tax Fraud

The auction house was accused of helping clients avoid paying taxes on millions of dollars’ worth of art purchased from 2010 to 2020.

Kering logo
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
Kering Debuts New Jewelry Award With Sustainability Focus

The four finalists will present their pieces at the 2025 JCK Las Vegas show.

Model wearing pieces from Camera Oscura collection
CollectionsNov 20, 2024
Pamela Love Channels Surrealist Artists in New Collection

The “Camera Oscura” collection showcases earring designs celebrating female Surrealist artists Claude Cahun and Leonor Fini.

Columbia Gem House “Pebbles to Pines” fundraiser
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2024
Columbia Gem House Raises $10K for Reforestation Efforts

The money will fund the planting of 10,000 trees in critical areas across Oregon, Arizona, Montana, and other regions.

The jewelry symposium 2025
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Opens Registration, Scholarship Applications

The event centered on advancing jewelry manufacturing technology will return to Detroit in May 2025.

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeNov 19, 2024
Woman Killed in Armed Robbery of Sacramento Jewelry Store

Local reports identified the woman as the wife of the jewelry store owner.

Tsar Ferdinand I Bulgaria colored diamond pin and emerald diamond ring
AuctionsNov 19, 2024
‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.

Trove NYC flagship exterior
MajorsNov 19, 2024
Trove Opens First US Flagship in NYC

The Australian jewelry box brand’s new West Village store will showcase new jewelers each month through its Designer in Residence program.

Snoop Dogg and Carolyn Rafaelian
CollectionsNov 19, 2024
Snoop Dogg’s New Jewelry Collection Is All About Love

“Lovechild” was created in partnership with Carolyn Rafaelian’s Metal Alchemist brand.

Helzberg CEO Brad Hampton
EditorsNov 18, 2024
Q&A: Helzberg CEO Brad Hampton on the Jeweler’s Rebrand

Hampton discussed how Helzberg is improving the customer experience and why it was inspired by the company formerly known as Dunkin’ Donuts.

Andrea Jose jewelry
Policies & IssuesNov 18, 2024
Reciprocity Jewels Returns to NYC Jewelry Week

The group will host several curated events and an exhibition of designer jewelry made with Peruvian gold traceable to the miners’ names.

Dolly Parton and Kendra Scott
CollectionsNov 18, 2024
Dolly Parton Shines in Collaboration with Kendra Scott

The collection honors the 50th anniversary of Dolly Parton’s “Love is Like a Butterfly” song, which shares a birth year with Kendra Scott.

IGI Expressions
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2024
IGI Jewelry Design Competition Returns

This year’s theme asks designers to take inspiration from classic fairy tales.

New York Comic Con Javits Center crowd
EditorsNov 15, 2024
Why Fine Jewelry Belongs at New York Comic Con

Senior Editor Lenore Fedow makes the case for why more jewelers should be appealing to nerds at the annual event.

Marie Lichtenberg and Raiz’in collection
CollectionsNov 15, 2024
Marie Lichtenberg Battles Counterfeits with New ‘Raiz’in Scapular’ Designs

The latest “Raiz’in” drop showcases a newly designed “Scapular” necklace and donates a portion of the proceeds to Make-A-Wish France.

Citizen 100th Anniversary Limited Edition #1 Pocket Watch
WatchesNov 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: Citizen’s Commemorative Pocket Watch

No. 1 out of 100, the timepiece was created to mark Citizen’s 100th anniversary and will be auctioned off at Sotheby’s next month.

My Next Question store security episode
Recorded WebinarsNov 15, 2024
Watch: 10 Tips to Keep Your Jewelry Store Secure

On the latest episode of “My Next Question,” two experts share best practices for store security during the holidays and year-round.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy