Other

Column: The price of integrity

OtherMar 22, 2016

Column: The price of integrity

Whether retailers choose to discount or not, it is vitally important that they have integrity in their pricing, columnist Peter Smith writes.

In visiting some retail stores in recent weeks, I have noticed a disturbing pattern on pricing.


Peter Smith, the author of “Hiring SquirrelsWe have seen an uncomfortable number of examples of the retailer marking products up, beyond what one could reasonably consider a credible retail price, for the sole purpose of marking the prices down again in order to convey the illusion of value to their customers.

The premise of marking up to discount has, of course, been around for many years. I was first introduced to it in the early to middle 1980s, when I spent a few years working for the now defunct Whitehall Jewellers (they used the English spelling.)

Having worked in the jewelry business for many years before my Whitehall stint, I was not a novice to discounting per se. However, my previous experience in the old country (Ireland) had always been, well, legitimate. If we offered discounts at McGowan’s Jewellers (Irish spelling) it was for a limited time--post-Christmas sale or on products that we were trying to liquidate. We had never used pricing to convince the customer that they were getting a deal unless they were, quite honestly, getting a deal.

In my most recent visit to a retail partner, I discovered that they had marked up products from my company far beyond the recommended retail price points, which provided healthy retail margins as it was. The prices were high enough that any reasonably well-informed customer would likely question the viability of the pricing not just on those items, but across the entire store. In fact, at a recent trunk show, one of our team had personally witnessed three separate examples of customers reacting viscerally, and very negatively, to the grossly inflated pricing that the retailer had put on the products.

Despite his embarrassment, knowing as he did what we had sold the products for and what the recommended retail pricing should have been, there was nothing our guy could do to convince the customer to refrain from completely disengaging while he “checked in with the owner” as to what might be done about the price.

The damage had been done and those customers at that particular trunk show had a very sobering introduction to the notion of pricing integrity. They knew that something didn’t smell right and the retailer’s intent to use the artificially and unreasonably high ticket prices as

a base-line for negotiation had backfired spectacularly.

As I mentioned, we also saw other cases of retailers who had previously enjoyed very good sell-through with our product only to have the sales hit a brick wall for “no apparent reason.” In each case, of course, we discovered that they had made the decision to extend the mark-up far beyond what was recommended and what was reasonable. As soon as the conversations were had, and the retail tickets changed to reflect the more appropriate retail pricing, the sell-through recovered and the damage was reversed. Or was it?

One can debate the merits of discounting versus not discounting but there are, of course, no absolute right or absolute wrong answers. Each retailer must embrace openly and honestly the practice that they believe is right for their business. If you believe that discounting is the way to compete, and you can run a healthy business on the margins you make, then who is to say that strategy is wrong? If you choose to price your products appropriately and sell on value, knowing that you won’t win the customer who is hell-bent on getting a “deal,” than you owe no apology to anyone for that strategy.

No matter which of the aforementioned approaches you deem best for you, what is vitally important is that you have integrity of pricing.

The earlier mentioned and now-closed Whitehall Jewellers had a pricing model that was based on illusion. The company was able to effect a sizable expansion by convincing customers that they were getting a great deal. The ubiquitous 50/60/70 percent off (retail) banners hung from the rafters and enough people seemed to buy into the illusion of value for about a decade.

Having spent a few years working behind the counters in different Whitehall stores, my own inclination was that customers didn’t really believe that they were getting 60 percent off the original price at all. They knew that those discounts were a sham, but for some period of time enough of them were still willing to believe that even if the “original price” was bogus, they were still getting a deal. The model, ultimately, failed.

I personally am not a fan of discounting because it presumes one of three things:

1. The customer is getting a real deal, in which case I wonder where the margins will come from to run the business. Good for the consumer, bad for the store.

2. That you can compete long term on a “lowest price” model. There’s generally only one winner in that game.

3. Or, as mentioned, the pricing model is actually misleading and illusionary. There likely would be enough customers who are smart enough to see through that, and ultimately it will reflect very poorly on the store in the short and long term.

Martin Lindstrom, the author of Buy-ology: Truths and Lies About Why We Buy, cites multiple studies about the long-term costs of discounting. Lindstrom writes that the studies show that it takes seven years for a brand to recover its value in the minds of consumers when it has been discounted.

Michael Raynor and Mumtaz Ahmed wrote in their book, The Three Rules: How Exceptional Companies Think, that extensive research shows that companies that devoted their energies and resources to the “non-price value” ultimately ended up far better off than companies that chased a “price” value strategy. 

Again, retail stores will choose the best course for them, be it price value or non-price value, but whichever direction one chooses, it ought to have at its core the basic premise of price integrity.

The illusionary approach may appear to be working in the short-term, but it is not a sound strategy for long-term growth or for customer loyalty.

Peter Smith, author of Hiring Squirrels: 12 Essential Interview Questions to Uncover Great Retail Sales Talent, has spent more than 30 years building sales teams at retail and at wholesale. He is president of Vibhor Gems and he has previously worked with companies such as Tiffany & Co., Montblanc and Hearts On Fire. Email him at peter@vibhorgems.com, dublinsmith@yahoo.com or reach him on LinkedIn.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Sylvie Jewelry Auranova Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection

“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Deborah Meyers Experience The Birds Earrings
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ Earrings

Designer Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.

ejap cohort 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

Melee diamonds from De Beers
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid Uncertainty

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.

Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Wolf CEO Simon Wolf
EditorsApr 24, 2025
Q&A: Wolf’s CEO Talks U.S. Expansion

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

gia1d100 btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

Iowa jeweler Herman Ginsberg
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to Noncompliance

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

Young Diamantaires
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to Nonprofit

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Mined + Found "Hope" Matchbox Locket
TrendsApr 24, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: So Charming

Charms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.

Bulgari’s expanded factory in Valenza, Italy
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in Italy

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Jason McNary accepting FGI Fine Jewelry Rising Star award for Paola Sasplugas
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ Award

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

1999 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to Auction

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

Carmelo Anthony and Jaylen Brown David Yurman campaign
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen Brown

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine Jewelry

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

JAR Apricot Blossom bracelet
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry Collection

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of Mouth

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

Avi Levy
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth Officer

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

Scottsdale Fine Jewelers store exterior
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow Independent

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Cartier Exhibition Installation at Victoria & Albert Museum
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Bill and Birdie Levine of Van Cott Jewelers
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 Years

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

IJO Director Samantha Larson
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise Strategy

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.

Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host Convention

The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy