The group met with the president's senior trade advisor earlier this week to express the industry’s concerns about the effects of tariffs.
Column: Looking Back and Thinking Forward, Part I
In a two-part column, Jan Brassem relives the closing of his jewelry manufacturing firm in the early ‘80s and the 4 lessons it taught him about success in the jewelry business. Part I: The good old days.
Leading U.S. business schools now are using case histories (“cases”) as teaching tools. Professors feel actual cases are valuable problem-solving generators because a) they describe specific corporate problems/opportunities and b) they allow students to strategize and solve problems and seize opportunities.
The list is problematic: two economic recessions, increasing gold prices, disappearing distribution channels, new computer applications and changing demographics.
There are no simple answers on how to deal with the array of changes confronting this company. The only thing you should ask yourself, “What would I have done under these circumstances?”
That was only the initial part of the saga, the best part. The difficult component followed. Before I start, however, here’s the back story.
Having fulfilled my military service, earned an MBA (paid for by Uncle Sam) and worked for several years in the venture capital field, it was high time to find a career that would leverage my talents and interests. So after months of searching, applying financial analytics and negotiations, I, along with the financial assistance again from the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs (the VA) and a group of investors, targeted and acquired a 250-employee jewelry firm in 1978.
It manufactured (contracted, as it was called in those days) low-end gold and silver jewelry castings that we polished and set with inexpensive stones and diamonds and shipped. I was still a young guy, in my mid-30s, on a fast track. Years later, that fast track would hit a cliff.
Dare I say it … Things started wonderfully. In those lofty days, (late ‘60s to the mid-80s), the jewelry industry was a demand-driven business. Most manufacturers, especially like the one I now owned, spent most of their focus on shipping customer orders by working five-and-a-half days a week.
Our customers, a mix of young female Gen Xers and some baby boomers, were high school, college and young working women with limited disposable income. The gold jewelry we produced--around 10,000 units per month--luckily hit their price point exactly. We had several competitors but, like us, they didn’t see a need to do any
In those days, jewelry retailers were supported by the extremely successful marketing campaigns of two industry giants, De Beers and the World Gold Council; namely, WGC’s, million-dollar “Nothing Feels Like Real Gold” campaign, and De Beers’ diamond promotion, “A Diamond Is Forever.” Both were big hits.
The Jewelers of America (JA) trade shows were held at the Hilton Hotel in New York City. Customers stopped in at your booth, or suite, and met you for dinner at the hotel after the show closed for the day. It became a place to mix business with friendship. The show was fun and successful.
But wait! The price of gold was starting to inch up from a low of $40/ounce and already was at $308/ounce.
If you mentioned the words “social networking,” the probable response would be, “Huh?” Furthermore, in those pre-Microsoft Excel days, you’d be laboring over spreadsheets with paper, pencil, adding machine and eraser to manually compute totals.
Social networking, about to burst on the marketing scene, was on the horizon. The embryonic HSN, and later QVC, were just starting to sell jewelry via TV. Both were our customers. You get the muddy picture of this rapidly changing--and confusing--period.
As if that wasn’t enough, we were heading into President Reagan’s W-shaped, or double-dip, recession.
Everybody stopped smiling … An industry in disruption. To be sure, some prescient industry leaders were already mindful of the dark clouds.
For example, Gerry Peterson, a titular industry leader in high-end diamond ring designing and manufacturing at that time, sold his company, Peterson Enterprises Inc., to an Indian diamond company in 1980.
Ultimately, the rising gold price was starting to filter down to those retailers targeting baby boomers and remaining Gen Xers.
By 1980, gold, on average, was at $615/ounce. Industry disruption was at hand.
Jan Brassem is a senior partner at MainBrace Global Partners, a global jewelry advisory and M&A firm with offices in New York and Hong Kong. You can e-mail him at Jan-at-MainBraceGlobalPartners.com.
The Latest

The pop-up will display this year's Tiffany & Co. Singles Championship trophies along with a diamond-encrusted tennis racket and ball.

The New Hampshire-based store has expanded to Boston, propelled by the success of Alex Bellman’s TikTok page, “The Truthful Jeweler.”

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

The latest incident happened Monday at a store in Oakland, California, continuing a pattern JSA first warned about last month.


The new aqua green New York Harbor Limited Edition II is the watchmaker’s second collaboration with the Billion Oyster Project.

Participants who attend any three Rings of Strength events will be awarded a special medal.

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

The investment company, founded by Dev Shetty, has acquired the struggling miner and its assets, including the Lulo mine in Angola.

Smith shares wisdom he gleaned from a podcast he was listening to one morning while being walked by his dog, a Malshi named Sophie.

The counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels jewels would have been worth more than $30 million if genuine.

The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program received the Registered Apprenticeship Program designation by the U.S. Department of Labor.

Casio executive and watch enthusiast Masaki Obu is the new general manager of its U.S. timepiece division.

Barabash, Verragio’s client relations representative, was a vital member of the team and is remembered as being warm and full of life.

Originally introduced in 1992, the “Dot” collection is back with a capsule featuring five archival designs and three new creations.

Allison-Kaufman has received the honor for the fourth year in a row.

The company had a solid second quarter, with sales of non-charm jewelry outpacing sales of pieces in its core collections.

Taylor Swift dons the vibrant pair in new promotional imagery for her upcoming album, “The Life of a Showgirl,” set to release in October.

Its investment in micromechanics expert Inhotec will preserve skills essential to the watchmaking industry as a whole, said the company.

Nicolette Bianchi joins the wholesale provider with more than 15 years of cross-industry experience in marketing and product development.

Her new “Ocean” collection was inspired by Myanmar’s traditional articulated fish jewelry, with depictions of flounder, catfish, and more.

Longtime Casio executive Yusuke Suzuki is the new president and CEO of Casio’s U.S. subsidiary.

The full-day sourcing and networking event, slated for Aug. 18, will be followed by the fifth annual Mega Mixer Summer Soirée.

Model Georgina Rodríguez received a rock of an engagement ring, with her diamond estimated to be 35 carats, experts say.

The board elected 9 new directors at its recent ICA Congress in Brazil.

Three winners will receive a custom ring from Honest Hands Ring Co. inlaid with a piece of history from Denver-based distillery Stranahan’s.

JD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.