AuctionsApr 27, 2026
12 Years Later, the ‘Ocean Dream’ Diamond Resurfaces at Christie’sAuctionsApr 30, 2026
Vintage Cartier Watch Crashes Through Records, Selling for $2M
Believed to be one of three made in 1987, the Cartier London Crash was hot at the “Shapes of Cartier” sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
A rare 18-karat yellow-gold Cartier London Crash watch circa 1987 sold for $2 million, more than double its pre-sale estimate, setting the record for the most valuable Cartier wristwatch ever sold at auction.
Hong Kong—A rare Cartier London Crash watch circa 1987 sold for a record-breaking $2 million at Sotheby’s Important Watches auction held in Hong Kong last week.
Sotheby’s said the model is among the rarest and most sought-after Cartier timepieces today.
The auction house estimated that fewer than a dozen original London Crash watches were produced between 1967 and 1970, with only three produced in 1987.
The watch more than doubled its pre-sale estimate following a nine-minute bidding battle between collectors online, on the phones, and in the room. In the end, it sold to a Japanese private collector.
It was a highlight of “The Shapes of Cartier: The Finest Vintage Grouping Ever Assembled” sale.
The Important Watches auction achieved a total of $52.9 million, becoming the highest total ever realized for a watch sale at Sotheby’s, it said, and the most valuable watch auction ever held in Asia at any auction house.
Sotheby’s noted that “The Shapes of Cartier” sale was central to this landmark result, representing the largest and most comprehensive collection of vintage Cartier watches ever presented at auction.
The “Shapes of Cartier” collection comprises more than 300 timepieces that Sotheby’s said trace a century of technical ingenuity and artistic exploration, underscoring Cartier’s ability to redefine the form and function of a wristwatch.
The debut sale in Hong Kong featured 82 pieces, which garnered $13.8 million, with every lot sold.
Additional pieces from the collection will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches auctions in Geneva and New York through December.
“This sale was a resounding success and a powerful signal for the market, surpassing the previous highest total set in our New York sale room only four months ago,” said Geoff Hess, global head of Sotheby’s watches.
Sotheby’s said the model is among the rarest and most sought-after Cartier timepieces today.
The auction house estimated that fewer than a dozen original London Crash watches were produced between 1967 and 1970, with only three produced in 1987.
The watch more than doubled its pre-sale estimate following a nine-minute bidding battle between collectors online, on the phones, and in the room. In the end, it sold to a Japanese private collector.
It was a highlight of “The Shapes of Cartier: The Finest Vintage Grouping Ever Assembled” sale.
The Important Watches auction achieved a total of $52.9 million, becoming the highest total ever realized for a watch sale at Sotheby’s, it said, and the most valuable watch auction ever held in Asia at any auction house.
Sotheby’s noted that “The Shapes of Cartier” sale was central to this landmark result, representing the largest and most comprehensive collection of vintage Cartier watches ever presented at auction.
The “Shapes of Cartier” collection comprises more than 300 timepieces that Sotheby’s said trace a century of technical ingenuity and artistic exploration, underscoring Cartier’s ability to redefine the form and function of a wristwatch.
The debut sale in Hong Kong featured 82 pieces, which garnered $13.8 million, with every lot sold.
Additional pieces from the collection will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches auctions in Geneva and New York through December.
“This sale was a resounding success and a powerful signal for the market, surpassing the previous highest total set in our New York sale room only four months ago,” said Geoff Hess, global head of Sotheby’s watches.
A Cartier London J.C.C. Tank Allongée watch circa 1992 in 18-karat white gold with an elongated black dial
A Carier London Tank Normale watch, circa 1967-1968, featuring an 18-karat yellow gold rectangular case with stretched red numerals on the dial
Records were also set for two Cartier London Tank models, the J.J.C. Allongée and the Normale.
The Cartier London Tank J.J.C. Allongée, circa 1992, sold for $735,000 against a pre-sale estimate of $40,000 to $60,000, while the Cartier London Tank Normal, circa 1967 to 1968 achieved $588,000 against a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.
A Cartier London Baignoire watch with an 18-karat yellow gold oval-shaped case and blued steel pointed baton hands circa 1973-1974
A Cartier London Asymétrique watch, circa 1973-1974, with a case featuring blue enamel over 18-karat yellow and blued steel épée hands on a white dial
A Cartier Paris Oval-Form Skeletonized watch circa 1973 uses sapphire crystals on the front and back of the 18-karat yellow gold case to showcase the watch’s mechanics
A record was also set for the Baignoire model, as a Cartier London Baignoire watch, circa 1973 to 1974, fetched $621,000 against its pre-sale estimate of $50,000 to $70,000.
Meanwhile, more than 15 bidders vied for a Cartier London Asymétrique watch that Sotheby’s said is highly unusual, made in 18-karat yellow gold with blue enamel.
The watch, circa 1973 to 1974, dates to the closing chapter of Cartier Bond Street’s most experimental era.
According to Sotheby’s, there are only five known Cartier London enamel watches from this era.
It sold for more than 10 times the high end of its pre-sale estimate of $82,000, achieving $850,000.
Another watch to surpass expectations was the Cartier Paris oval-form skeletonized wristwatch in 18-karat yellow gold, circa 1973.
This “very fine and exceptionally rare” timepiece sold for $948,000 against a high-end pre-sale estimate of about $51,000.
A purse watch in the form of a walnut crafted from 9-karat yellow gold by Cartier London circa 1958-1959
An Art Deco clip watch by Cartier Paris, circa 1928-1929, uses 18-karat yellow gold adorned with black enamel on the case
Alongside the record-breaking wristwatches were Cartier form watches.
A Cartier London 9-karat yellow gold purse watch in the form of a walnut, circa 1958 to 1959, fetched $123,000, sixteen times the high-end of its pre-sale estimate of $8,000.
A Cartier Paris Art Deco clip watch circa 1928 to 1929 sold for ten times its high estimate of $10,000, garnering $98,000.
Also highlights of Sotheby’s Hong Kong’s Important Watches auction were timepieces by Patek Phillipe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Daniel Roth.
A. Lange & Söhne’s limited-edition Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Ref 701.007 circa 1998 features an 18-karat white gold case on a blue alligator strap
Patek Philippe’s La Maison Platine Ref 2552 retailed by Cartier circa 1959
A Daniel Roth Tourbillon Skeleton watch circa 1995 in platinum on a black alligator strap
A world record was set by A. Lange & Söhne’s Tourbillon Pour le Mérite watch (Ref. 701.007) that dates to 1998 and is believed to be one of fewer than 20 to exist, according to the auction house.
It far exceeded its pre-sale estimate of $150,000 to $300,000, fetching $1.3 million.
A Patek Philippe La Maison Platine (Ref. 2552) also set a world record as it achieved $768,000, within its pre-sale estimate of $625,000 to $1.3 million.
The Patek Philippe watch is widely regarded as one of its most important time-only vintage wristwatches, Sotheby’s said. It was retailed by Cartier New York in 1959 and is one of nine known platinum versions.
Another auction record was set by a Daniel Roth Tourbillon Skeleton watch that became the most valuable piece from the watchmaker, as it sold for $866,000, exceeding its high-end pre-sale estimate of $250,000.
Made in 1995, the watch features the classic Daniel Roth double-ellipse watch case.
“While the Cartier timepieces were the undeniable centerpiece, what proved equally exciting was the exceptional depth of bidding across both vintage watches and independent makers,” said Joey Luk, global head of watch collections sourcing and sales at Sotheby’s.
The Important Watches sale in Hong Kong was sold 97 percent by lot, with more than half of the lots selling above the high estimate.
More than 800 bidders from more than 50 countries participated, which Sotheby’s noted marked a 50 percent rise in bidders from last season.
Sotheby’s Important Watches auction in Geneva is slated for May 10.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
ColumnistsSep 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your ChristmasThe stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.
IndependentsSep 14, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers to Unveil Photography Exhibition“Adornos: Jewelry, Memory & What We Pass Down” honors the jewelry’s importance to New York City’s Latine communities.
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Gemfields Sells All Lots at First Emerald Auction in 9 MonthsThe company’s managing director of sales said the results demonstrate “continued strong demand for commercial-quality emeralds.”
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Pledges Support for Eye Care ProgramThe nonprofit awarded a grant to the Gift of Sight initiative spearheaded by South African musician Black Coffee.
Weekly QuizSep 10, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsSep 11, 2026
A Sapphire ‘Stardust’ Ring From Greenwich St. Jewelers The Latine-owned New York jeweler is marking two milestones this year: its 50th anniversary and the 25th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks.
MajorsSep 11, 2026
The Wishing Place by JTV OpensThe jewelry retail broadcast network has sponsored a new space for Make-A-Wish East Tennessee on its campus in Knoxville.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
Events & AwardsSep 11, 2026
The Edge Awards Scholarships to 2 Young Jewelry ProfessionalsThe recipients were recognized at the 24 Karat Club of the Southeastern United States’ annual banquet.
MajorsSep 10, 2026
Lagos Founder Steven Lagos Steps Down as CEO Keith Rolfe, CFO and COO of Lagos, is now at the jewelry brand’s helm while Steven takes on the role of executive chairman.
CrimeSep 10, 2026
FBI Offers $50K Reward for ‘Most Wanted’ Fugitive in $1M Jewelry HeistAlberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged in the armed robbery of a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and remains at large.
SourcingSep 10, 2026
AGTA Announces 4 Newly Elected DirectorsFour directors were elected to the AGTA board and will serve three-year terms beginning in February.
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Former Sotheby’s, Christie’s Exec Appointed CEO of Julien’s Auctions Ken Citron joins the celebrity memorabilia-focused auction house ahead of its first week-long series of events in Abu Dhabi.
FinancialsSep 09, 2026
Signet Jewelers to ‘Double Down’ on Blue Nile Amid Strong SalesThe jewelry retailer said it sees opportunity at higher price points, particularly in natural diamonds for bridal and fashion.
IndependentsSep 09, 2026
Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers Closes After Nearly 80 YearsThe Los Angeles-based, family-owned jeweler was founded by Lenny and Sunny Friedman in 1946.
SourcingSep 09, 2026
Fura Gems Notes ‘Remarkable’ Interest in Larger Rubies at Latest SaleThe auction, held in Bangkok, was 96 percent sold by lot, with nearly 411,000 carats of Mozambiquan rubies sold.
MajorsSep 09, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Catalog Includes Its New Demi-Fine CollectionFine Jewelry 2027-2028 has more than 900 new styles, including silver, gold-filled, gold-plated sterling silver, and vermeil jewelry.
Policies & IssuesSep 09, 2026
8 Key Changes the FTC Made to the Jewelry Guides: A Refresher Learn more about the new terms for lab-grown diamonds and composite gemstones, and the major changes in store for precious metals jewelry.
IndependentsSep 08, 2026
Ricky Bromberg, Longtime President of Bromberg & Co., Dies at 67 Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.
TrendsSep 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: A Hot Take on September’s Birthstone With high durability and a wide range of colors to choose from, sapphires may be the ultimate birthstone, Gizzi claims.
ColumnistsSep 08, 2026
Peter Smith: Humor Is No Laughing MatterLaughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.
MajorsSep 08, 2026
Former Tiffany & Co. Exec Joins Exemplar Luxury GroupGretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better LocationThe California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 ApplicationsThe deadline to apply is Nov. 13.
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of WatchesThe auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.
EditorsSep 03, 2026
Q&A: Simon G.’s CEO on Why He Won’t Use AI for Jewelry DesignZaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.
