AuctionsApr 27, 2026
12 Years Later, the ‘Ocean Dream’ Diamond Resurfaces at Christie’sAuctionsApr 30, 2026
Vintage Cartier Watch Crashes Through Records, Selling for $2M
Believed to be one of three made in 1987, the Cartier London Crash was hot at the “Shapes of Cartier” sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
A rare 18-karat yellow-gold Cartier London Crash watch circa 1987 sold for $2 million, more than double its pre-sale estimate, setting the record for the most valuable Cartier wristwatch ever sold at auction.
Hong Kong—A rare Cartier London Crash watch circa 1987 sold for a record-breaking $2 million at Sotheby’s Important Watches auction held in Hong Kong last week.
Sotheby’s said the model is among the rarest and most sought-after Cartier timepieces today.
The auction house estimated that fewer than a dozen original London Crash watches were produced between 1967 and 1970, with only three produced in 1987.
The watch more than doubled its pre-sale estimate following a nine-minute bidding battle between collectors online, on the phones, and in the room. In the end, it sold to a Japanese private collector.
It was a highlight of “The Shapes of Cartier: The Finest Vintage Grouping Ever Assembled” sale.
The Important Watches auction achieved a total of $52.9 million, becoming the highest total ever realized for a watch sale at Sotheby’s, it said, and the most valuable watch auction ever held in Asia at any auction house.
Sotheby’s noted that “The Shapes of Cartier” sale was central to this landmark result, representing the largest and most comprehensive collection of vintage Cartier watches ever presented at auction.
The “Shapes of Cartier” collection comprises more than 300 timepieces that Sotheby’s said trace a century of technical ingenuity and artistic exploration, underscoring Cartier’s ability to redefine the form and function of a wristwatch.
The debut sale in Hong Kong featured 82 pieces, which garnered $13.8 million, with every lot sold.
Additional pieces from the collection will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches auctions in Geneva and New York through December.
“This sale was a resounding success and a powerful signal for the market, surpassing the previous highest total set in our New York sale room only four months ago,” said Geoff Hess, global head of Sotheby’s watches.
Sotheby’s said the model is among the rarest and most sought-after Cartier timepieces today.
The auction house estimated that fewer than a dozen original London Crash watches were produced between 1967 and 1970, with only three produced in 1987.
The watch more than doubled its pre-sale estimate following a nine-minute bidding battle between collectors online, on the phones, and in the room. In the end, it sold to a Japanese private collector.
It was a highlight of “The Shapes of Cartier: The Finest Vintage Grouping Ever Assembled” sale.
The Important Watches auction achieved a total of $52.9 million, becoming the highest total ever realized for a watch sale at Sotheby’s, it said, and the most valuable watch auction ever held in Asia at any auction house.
Sotheby’s noted that “The Shapes of Cartier” sale was central to this landmark result, representing the largest and most comprehensive collection of vintage Cartier watches ever presented at auction.
The “Shapes of Cartier” collection comprises more than 300 timepieces that Sotheby’s said trace a century of technical ingenuity and artistic exploration, underscoring Cartier’s ability to redefine the form and function of a wristwatch.
The debut sale in Hong Kong featured 82 pieces, which garnered $13.8 million, with every lot sold.
Additional pieces from the collection will be offered at Sotheby’s Important Watches auctions in Geneva and New York through December.
“This sale was a resounding success and a powerful signal for the market, surpassing the previous highest total set in our New York sale room only four months ago,” said Geoff Hess, global head of Sotheby’s watches.
A Cartier London J.C.C. Tank Allongée watch circa 1992 in 18-karat white gold with an elongated black dial
A Carier London Tank Normale watch, circa 1967-1968, featuring an 18-karat yellow gold rectangular case with stretched red numerals on the dial
Records were also set for two Cartier London Tank models, the J.J.C. Allongée and the Normale.
The Cartier London Tank J.J.C. Allongée, circa 1992, sold for $735,000 against a pre-sale estimate of $40,000 to $60,000, while the Cartier London Tank Normal, circa 1967 to 1968 achieved $588,000 against a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.
A Cartier London Baignoire watch with an 18-karat yellow gold oval-shaped case and blued steel pointed baton hands circa 1973-1974
A Cartier London Asymétrique watch, circa 1973-1974, with a case featuring blue enamel over 18-karat yellow and blued steel épée hands on a white dial
A Cartier Paris Oval-Form Skeletonized watch circa 1973 uses sapphire crystals on the front and back of the 18-karat yellow gold case to showcase the watch’s mechanics
A record was also set for the Baignoire model, as a Cartier London Baignoire watch, circa 1973 to 1974, fetched $621,000 against its pre-sale estimate of $50,000 to $70,000.
Meanwhile, more than 15 bidders vied for a Cartier London Asymétrique watch that Sotheby’s said is highly unusual, made in 18-karat yellow gold with blue enamel.
The watch, circa 1973 to 1974, dates to the closing chapter of Cartier Bond Street’s most experimental era.
According to Sotheby’s, there are only five known Cartier London enamel watches from this era.
It sold for more than 10 times the high end of its pre-sale estimate of $82,000, achieving $850,000.
Another watch to surpass expectations was the Cartier Paris oval-form skeletonized wristwatch in 18-karat yellow gold, circa 1973.
This “very fine and exceptionally rare” timepiece sold for $948,000 against a high-end pre-sale estimate of about $51,000.
A purse watch in the form of a walnut crafted from 9-karat yellow gold by Cartier London circa 1958-1959
An Art Deco clip watch by Cartier Paris, circa 1928-1929, uses 18-karat yellow gold adorned with black enamel on the case
Alongside the record-breaking wristwatches were Cartier form watches.
A Cartier London 9-karat yellow gold purse watch in the form of a walnut, circa 1958 to 1959, fetched $123,000, sixteen times the high-end of its pre-sale estimate of $8,000.
A Cartier Paris Art Deco clip watch circa 1928 to 1929 sold for ten times its high estimate of $10,000, garnering $98,000.
Also highlights of Sotheby’s Hong Kong’s Important Watches auction were timepieces by Patek Phillipe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Daniel Roth.
A. Lange & Söhne’s limited-edition Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Ref 701.007 circa 1998 features an 18-karat white gold case on a blue alligator strap
Patek Philippe’s La Maison Platine Ref 2552 retailed by Cartier circa 1959
A Daniel Roth Tourbillon Skeleton watch circa 1995 in platinum on a black alligator strap
A world record was set by A. Lange & Söhne’s Tourbillon Pour le Mérite watch (Ref. 701.007) that dates to 1998 and is believed to be one of fewer than 20 to exist, according to the auction house.
It far exceeded its pre-sale estimate of $150,000 to $300,000, fetching $1.3 million.
A Patek Philippe La Maison Platine (Ref. 2552) also set a world record as it achieved $768,000, within its pre-sale estimate of $625,000 to $1.3 million.
The Patek Philippe watch is widely regarded as one of its most important time-only vintage wristwatches, Sotheby’s said. It was retailed by Cartier New York in 1959 and is one of nine known platinum versions.
Another auction record was set by a Daniel Roth Tourbillon Skeleton watch that became the most valuable piece from the watchmaker, as it sold for $866,000, exceeding its high-end pre-sale estimate of $250,000.
Made in 1995, the watch features the classic Daniel Roth double-ellipse watch case.
“While the Cartier timepieces were the undeniable centerpiece, what proved equally exciting was the exceptional depth of bidding across both vintage watches and independent makers,” said Joey Luk, global head of watch collections sourcing and sales at Sotheby’s.
The Important Watches sale in Hong Kong was sold 97 percent by lot, with more than half of the lots selling above the high estimate.
More than 800 bidders from more than 50 countries participated, which Sotheby’s noted marked a 50 percent rise in bidders from last season.
Sotheby’s Important Watches auction in Geneva is slated for May 10.
More on Auctions
The Latest
EditorsJun 09, 2026
Q&A: Al Cook on the Lab-Grown ‘Bubble,’ Dwindling Diamond Supply The De Beers Group CEO also discussed tariffs, Desert Diamonds, and the pending sale of De Beers in an interview with Michelle Graff.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse RetiresThe industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry VoicesThe panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, LiterallyInspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.
Weekly QuizJun 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for SoutheastThe company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine JewelryThe jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
SourcingJun 08, 2026
Sally Morrison to Depart De Beers This Summer Morrison has been marketing diamonds on and off since the early 2000s and said she is leaving to “pursue new projects.”
TrendsJun 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: June’s Birthstone TrioThose born in June can celebrate with pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone jewelry.
TechnologyJun 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings Launches Ring Builder PlatformThe platform allows retailers to guide clients through a customizable engagement ring buying experience in a branded interface.
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 YearsJim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride MonthThe “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural DiamondsThe jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in AspenThe Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.
MajorsJun 04, 2026
AGS Honors Late Peter Yantzer, Holds Time Capsule CeremonyThe organization also announced its international board of directors for the 2026-2027 term.
MajorsJun 04, 2026
Neiman Marcus’ Downtown Dallas Store to Close in SeptemberSaks Global confirmed the closure this week, spelling the end for a store that’s been part of downtown Dallas for more than 100 years.
ColumnistsJun 03, 2026
Peter Smith: When Top Talent Leaves and What It Says About YouSmith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.
GradingJun 03, 2026
GIA’s Tracr Investment Is First Step Toward Industry-Owned PlatformThe Gemological Institute of America is now a 30 percent stakeholder in Tracr, the De Beers-backed blockchain for diamonds.
WatchesJun 03, 2026
The 1916 Company Taking Pre-Owned Rolexes on the Road, AgainThe retailer is bringing Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches to five U.S. cities in 2026 for collectors to see, try on, and purchase.
IndependentsJun 03, 2026
Jessica Alba Is the New Face of Gabriel & Co.The actress and entrepreneur stars in the jeweler’s new campaign that celebrates life’s quiet moments.
TrendsJun 03, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will SurviveThe price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.
FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’ The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’sSotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers TodayFrom Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.
