IndependentsApr 01, 2026
Zachary’s Jewelers’ Constance Polamalu to Release Children’s BookCollectionsApr 06, 2026
Historian Tanzy Ward Pens Book on Black Victorians’ Jewelry
The antique jewelry dealer talks about the importance of including Black Americans in jewelry history and preserving their stories.
Tanzy Ward released her third book, “Precious Black Jewels: The Bijou Material Culture of Black Victorians & Edwardians,” earlier this year.
New York—Tanzy Ward, an antique jewelry dealer and preservationist, has an untold story to share in her new book honoring Black jewelry culture in America.
“Precious Black Jewels: The Bijou Material Culture of Black Victorians & Edwardians” invites readers to look through portraits of Black people from those eras, which span 1837-1910, to get a better understanding of their jewelry style.
Ward’s research focuses in part on integrating Black Victorians into the history of antique jewelry through authentic representation.
“Despite enduring inaccurate caricatures and stereotypes, they appeared for portraits in elegant adornments that reflected their individuality, taste, and sentimental symbolism,” she writes in her synopsis of the book.
In her line of work, Ward spends a lot of time looking through antique jewelry catalogs.
“I noticed there was a lack of representation of Black people, Black Victorians in particular, and the different styles they wore,” she said in an interview with National Jeweler in late February.
“So, I thought this would be a great opportunity to not only [write] an antique [jewelry] identification book, but also to emphasize the Black Victorian material culture.”
Ward also is the author of “Hidden Legacies: African Presence in European Antiques” and “Unsung Portraits: Anonymous Images of Black Victorians & Early 20th Century Ancestors.”
“When I started collecting and preserving Black ancestral photos, I noticed there were so many beautiful photos where our Black ancestors had beautiful jewelry,” Ward said.
“They had good quality jewelry in that era. It was an era of high craftsmanship and Black Victorians were definitely a part of that.”
People often think of England when they think of the Victorian time period, but the styles inspired by Queen Victoria traveled to America too, she noted. Mourning jewelry, like memento mori pieces and photographic pins, was popular with Americans of all racial backgrounds.
“[Black people] wore beautiful jewelry too. They honored their loved ones with keepsakes. They had sweetheart bracelets and photographic brooches and beautiful scarf pins,” Ward said.
“Precious Black Jewels: The Bijou Material Culture of Black Victorians & Edwardians” invites readers to look through portraits of Black people from those eras, which span 1837-1910, to get a better understanding of their jewelry style.
Ward’s research focuses in part on integrating Black Victorians into the history of antique jewelry through authentic representation.
“Despite enduring inaccurate caricatures and stereotypes, they appeared for portraits in elegant adornments that reflected their individuality, taste, and sentimental symbolism,” she writes in her synopsis of the book.
In her line of work, Ward spends a lot of time looking through antique jewelry catalogs.
“I noticed there was a lack of representation of Black people, Black Victorians in particular, and the different styles they wore,” she said in an interview with National Jeweler in late February.
“So, I thought this would be a great opportunity to not only [write] an antique [jewelry] identification book, but also to emphasize the Black Victorian material culture.”
Ward also is the author of “Hidden Legacies: African Presence in European Antiques” and “Unsung Portraits: Anonymous Images of Black Victorians & Early 20th Century Ancestors.”
“When I started collecting and preserving Black ancestral photos, I noticed there were so many beautiful photos where our Black ancestors had beautiful jewelry,” Ward said.
“They had good quality jewelry in that era. It was an era of high craftsmanship and Black Victorians were definitely a part of that.”
People often think of England when they think of the Victorian time period, but the styles inspired by Queen Victoria traveled to America too, she noted. Mourning jewelry, like memento mori pieces and photographic pins, was popular with Americans of all racial backgrounds.
“[Black people] wore beautiful jewelry too. They honored their loved ones with keepsakes. They had sweetheart bracelets and photographic brooches and beautiful scarf pins,” Ward said.
Many people’s understanding of eras gone by is shaped by movies and television series set in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Rarely do these stories feature people of color.
However, the popular Netflix series “Bridgerton” has challenged this norm, employing a diverse cast of characters in the show, which is set in the Regency era of the early 1800s.
“I think it’s amazing that shows like that are getting more people interested in Black stories from other centuries that we definitely need to emphasize. And then that can also lead people to be more interested in Black Victorian material culture and the accurate portrayals of Black Americans,” said Ward.
To give people a historically accurate view, historians like Ward need primary sources.
“Each generation should have a gatekeeper to make sure that we preserve our ancestral material culture and stories,” she said.
Since Ward specializes in antique jewelry, she knows where to look for these sources, but that doesn’t mean the information is always easy to find, particularly biographical details.
It can be hard to say who is pictured in a photographic brooch, for instance.
Ward spends a lot of time in the field seeking out these special pieces and, sometimes, uncovers a real treasure.
She recalled coming across a ceremonial badge worn by a member of the first Black church in Greensboro, Georgia. Popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, ceremonial badges were created for fraternal organizations and churches, and often used for funerals or other important occasions.
“When you think about that type of history, who it belonged to, who they were celebrating and honoring, that’s a lot to unpack, especially during that era when it comes to Black people and their struggles. And just normal things that every human deals with, like honoring their loved ones.”
Some pieces still elude her, like a hairwork jewelry piece with a Black person’s hair, she said, but the search continues.
While it may seem like there are few specialists in her field, there may be more out there than one would think, Ward said.
“A lot of people who don’t call themselves historians specialize in this too,” she said. “The research starts in the field at home with people and their collection and their stories, because that’s how historians get their information.”
“People have a lot of beautiful material culture and family heirlooms in their collections at home, and they may not even realize where it came from or how significant it is.”
Tanzy Ward’s books, which retail from $35 to $38, are available for purchase on the Zanathia Jewelry website.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Collections
The Latest
SourcingJul 15, 2026
1,305-Carat Diamond Recovered from Mine in BotswanaThe yet-to-be named stone is the 10th diamond weighing more than 1,000 carats to come out of Lucara’s Karowe mine.
IndependentsJul 15, 2026
New Jersey Jeweler Barry Berman Dies at 81The founder of Fords Jewelers, Berman is remembered for his love of connecting with his community.
FinancialsJul 15, 2026
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Jump 18%, Declines to Comment on Sale Report The watch and jewelry retailer had a strong fiscal year despite what its CEO described as a “complex operating backdrop.”
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in JulyThe open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.
Weekly QuizJul 09, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsJul 14, 2026
Foundrae Opens First Standalone Store Outside USThe New York-based jewelry brand has expanded overseas, opening a store in London’s Mayfair district.
ColumnistsJul 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: What Today’s Jewelry Consumer Is Telling Us Rising revenue does not automatically mean a healthy business, particularly in the current economic landscape, Smith writes.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
TrendsJul 14, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Shoulder Dusters These long, fluid drop earrings are sure to catch the eye.
CrimeJul 14, 2026
Man Charged in $1M Jewelry Store Heist Lands on FBI Most Wanted ListAlberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged with robbing a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and is the only one still at large.
Events & AwardsJul 14, 2026
Conference on Mining, Sustainability Kicks Off in NYCInitiatives in Art and Culture is hosting its 16th annual Gold and Diamond Conference, with the theme of “Resilience.”
Lab-GrownJul 13, 2026
Stephanie Gottlieb Changes Her Mind on Lab-Grown DiamondsThe designer, who once said she’d never sell lab-grown diamonds, debuted two capsule collections designed to be fun and easy to wear.
SourcingJul 13, 2026
De Beers Announces Potential Layoffs, 2-Year Production Pause at VenetiaThe diamond miner and marketer is undergoing another round of cost-cutting measures ahead of its sale by Anglo American.
Events & AwardsJul 13, 2026
Registration Opens for JIS Fall 2026 ShowThe annual trade-only buying event is slated for Oct. 16-19 in Miami Beach, Florida.
Events & AwardsJul 13, 2026
AGTA Accepting Entries for Spectrum 2026AGTA also has announced the lineup of judges for the colored gemstone cutting and jewelry design contest’s various categories.
TechnologyJul 10, 2026
There’s a New Blind Box for Luxury Watches Collectibles platform Arena Club’s new Time Boxes could contain a Rolex or Patek Philippe watch.
TrendsJul 10, 2026
Jade Trau Creates a Constellation of DiamondsThe “Constellation Plié” collar, our Piece of the Week, features diamonds arranged in a constellation of shining stars.
SourcingJul 10, 2026
CFO of De Beers’ Consumer-Facing Division Leaves Company Shaun Wills joined the company in 2024 and was chief financial officer of the De Beers Brands and Consumer Markets division.
WatchesJul 10, 2026
Brilliant Earth Expands Into WatchesIn honor of its 20th anniversary, the jewelry brand has released a limited-edition collection of Swiss-made timepieces.
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & MercierRichemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.
AuctionsJul 09, 2026
Pharrell Williams’ Joopiter Hires Former Bonhams Exec to Head New Watch DivisionNate Borgelt will lead the digital auction house and content platform’s new division as head of watches.
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
Halstead Names 2026 Grant WinnerEnoch Platero, founder and designer behind Enoch Michael, is the first Native American jeweler to win the award.
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
AGS, GIA Name 2026 Beatrice Shipley Scholarship WinnerAGS also announced the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Kendra Scott Joins ‘Shark Tank’ As Permanent Investor The founder of the billion-dollar jewelry and lifestyle brand will debut as a full-time “Shark” on the upcoming season of the show.
SurveysJul 08, 2026
Signet Jewelers Falls 5 Spots on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers ListPlus, why retailers should be ready to adjust as the U.S. population may decline this year for the first time since the Great Depression.
CrimeJul 08, 2026
Here’s What Thieves Stole From the Lalique Museum René Lalique’s “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant, the first piece the museum acquired, was one of the jewels taken.
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Richline Group Promotes 2 ExecsArien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian have been elevated into newly created roles.
